Turbo 3.8 from Buick GN?
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Turbo 3.8 from Buick GN?
How's about a turbo 6. I know there's a large niche aftermarket for buick turbo v6s. I'm thinking, other than wiring and plumbing, it would make for an interesting swap.
YES, I know that '89 Trans Ams came with a turbo 6, but this is for all of us that don't own a turbo T/A.:rockon:
YES, I know that '89 Trans Ams came with a turbo 6, but this is for all of us that don't own a turbo T/A.:rockon:
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Probably the 2nd most popular swap topic on this board, right behind a BBC.
Yes it will work. No the manifolds will not fit, they are TTA specific. The heads will also not work if you want to retain A/C, but there's some other heads off of a FWD 3.8 that work perfect.
About 99% of any swap is "wiring and plumbing". Making motor mount brackets is the easiest part.
Do a search. This subject has been discussed in exhaustive detail.
Yes it will work. No the manifolds will not fit, they are TTA specific. The heads will also not work if you want to retain A/C, but there's some other heads off of a FWD 3.8 that work perfect.
About 99% of any swap is "wiring and plumbing". Making motor mount brackets is the easiest part.
Do a search. This subject has been discussed in exhaustive detail.
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Awesome project...........you can also check out turbobuick.com for info...............I know the guys over there will not mind help you out one bit. They help me with my 85 GN all the time. Later
Nick:lala:
Nick:lala:
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Yes, you can use the whole long block out a GN into a 3rd GEN.If you use everything from a GN you will have an issue with the AC comp. clearance, it will hit the strut tower so you may have run a an AC delete or modify the accessory bracket and few other modifcations but yes it can be done. I have seen few with complete GN powertrain.
Good Luck
Prasad
Good Luck
Prasad
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aluminum
By the way, TA Buick Performance makes an all-aluminum 3.8 block. The block itself weighs only 88 pounds!!!!!!!!!!!! :rockon: :hail: Talk about weight reduction on the front end!
About the whole A/C deal, once you're rolling down the street @ 60 mph with both windows down, you really don't give a f*ck (or maybe you do, who knows?).
About the whole A/C deal, once you're rolling down the street @ 60 mph with both windows down, you really don't give a f*ck (or maybe you do, who knows?).
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GN power train
Well, I'd rather not have that weak GN rear end and 200-R4 fragging on me when all the other go-fast goodies are on the car. Very likely a Ford 9" and either a TH400 with a gearsplitter or a highly beefed up 700-R4 with a gearsplitter (8 speeds are better than 4 )
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Re: GN power train
Originally posted by Abaddon_fallen1
Well, I'd rather not have that weak GN rear end and 200-R4 fragging on me when all the other go-fast goodies are on the car. Very likely a Ford 9" and either a TH400 with a gearsplitter or a highly beefed up 700-R4 with a gearsplitter (8 speeds are better than 4 )
Well, I'd rather not have that weak GN rear end and 200-R4 fragging on me when all the other go-fast goodies are on the car. Very likely a Ford 9" and either a TH400 with a gearsplitter or a highly beefed up 700-R4 with a gearsplitter (8 speeds are better than 4 )
The 8.5'' 10-bolt sure as hell isn't weak...not in the least
you can use the GN stuff...just ditch the AC and you'll need a custom downpipe made. Also the GN harness will work but you'll have to splice it into your stock harness
I'm in the middle of writing up some type of tech article for this swap...stay tuned
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Re: aluminum
Originally posted by Abaddon_fallen1
By the way, TA Buick Performance makes an all-aluminum 3.8 block. The block itself weighs only 88 pounds!!!!!!!!!!!! :rockon: :hail: Talk about weight reduction on the front end!
By the way, TA Buick Performance makes an all-aluminum 3.8 block. The block itself weighs only 88 pounds!!!!!!!!!!!! :rockon: :hail: Talk about weight reduction on the front end!
Unless you're pushing major power the stock 109 block will be fine...if you're that worried get some billet main caps and a girdle for extra peace of mind.
Last edited by fly89gta; 09-25-2003 at 10:43 PM.
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I thought about the swap for awhile. Until I relized I couldn't find a busted up GN anywhere in my area. No parts, no swap.
It is a pretty cool swap thought. Would be pretty fast with a few mods.
Down at thirdgen nationals a TTA raced a mustang GT. The mustang looked pretty modified and was running some big sticky tires. The TTA ran like a 8.2 in the 1/8th and the mustang ran a 8.1 it was close. I'm pretty sure the TTA was stock. And had street tires.
running in the 8's at that crappy track was real good for street cars. The track was like ice.
It is a pretty cool swap thought. Would be pretty fast with a few mods.
Down at thirdgen nationals a TTA raced a mustang GT. The mustang looked pretty modified and was running some big sticky tires. The TTA ran like a 8.2 in the 1/8th and the mustang ran a 8.1 it was close. I'm pretty sure the TTA was stock. And had street tires.
running in the 8's at that crappy track was real good for street cars. The track was like ice.
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there were two TTA's there...once was far from stock, the other one was relatively stock...I assume the stockish TTA is the one that ran..the other was a mid 11 second car
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Car: 2018 Camaro SS
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Originally posted by madmax
Weak 2004R huh?
I've seen more 700R4's blow up in my time.
Weak 2004R huh?
I've seen more 700R4's blow up in my time.
But don't ask me why I'm running a built up 700
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I think I'm going to look into doing the swap too.
Shouldn't have any trouble running a th350, would i?... just need the tci adapter plate, correct? overdrive and lockup are not a big deal to me because it's NOT a daily driver.
ill probably askt his over @ turbobuick as well, but are there any differences between the 84/85 motors and the 86/87 GN motors. I understand the later ones were intercooled from the factory, but aside from that were there any internal engine differences? I was planning to go aftermarket on the intercooler anyways so if the 84/85 is the same I can just pick up one of those.
Any help is appreciated.
Shouldn't have any trouble running a th350, would i?... just need the tci adapter plate, correct? overdrive and lockup are not a big deal to me because it's NOT a daily driver.
ill probably askt his over @ turbobuick as well, but are there any differences between the 84/85 motors and the 86/87 GN motors. I understand the later ones were intercooled from the factory, but aside from that were there any internal engine differences? I was planning to go aftermarket on the intercooler anyways so if the 84/85 is the same I can just pick up one of those.
Any help is appreciated.
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Mike, you can always run a BOP Th350 and not a Chevy TH350.
I'd still with the 86-87 period. There are a lot of other differences. The turbo, ECM, wiring harness(i i think) and a few other things
I'd still with the 86-87 period. There are a lot of other differences. The turbo, ECM, wiring harness(i i think) and a few other things
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why not have the 200r4 built right guys?
and retain at least some od
Pleanty of fast buicks still keep a 2004r
Heres a nice gn thred also.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=203086
and retain at least some od
Pleanty of fast buicks still keep a 2004r
Heres a nice gn thred also.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=203086
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Car: I've had 4 thrid gens!!
Engine: Someday again I will have another!!
I would definatly go with the 86/87 stuff..........just more vendors out there to help with your project. Take a look at the 84/85 engine compartment and then look at the 86/87 engine compartment. The 86/87 is much more user friendly. The turbo is up front and not on top of the intake. I havent worked on a 86/87, but I would think that it would be easier then my 85 GN. The bolt on possiblities with the 86/87's seem to be easier and better, because the intercooler is already in the mix. I love my hot air car though..........or at least it was a one point. No matter you go with 84/85 or 86/87 you cant go wrong.
Just throw on a adj. wastegate rod. A half tank of 110. Turn up the boost. Have a scan tool. And you should be putting most cars to shame. I am debating this for my Trans Am.......sometime in the future. Love your project!!
Just throw on a adj. wastegate rod. A half tank of 110. Turn up the boost. Have a scan tool. And you should be putting most cars to shame. I am debating this for my Trans Am.......sometime in the future. Love your project!!
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Car: I've had 4 thrid gens!!
Engine: Someday again I will have another!!
The wiring harnesses are different between the 84/85 and 86/87, because of were the turbo sits. The 84/85 runs infront of the engine instead of on the firewall.
The 84/85 stock turbo is smaller. A stock 86/87 turbo is good for mid 12's I have heard. A 84/85 turbo will not get you in the 12's, low 13's. Lots of boost!!
Go 86/87 you will be much happier when it is said and done. Dont get me wrong I love my car, but if I was to get another one....it would be a 86/87. Besides then I would have one of each......
Nick
The 84/85 stock turbo is smaller. A stock 86/87 turbo is good for mid 12's I have heard. A 84/85 turbo will not get you in the 12's, low 13's. Lots of boost!!
Go 86/87 you will be much happier when it is said and done. Dont get me wrong I love my car, but if I was to get another one....it would be a 86/87. Besides then I would have one of each......
Nick
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Originally posted by TPl383
why not have the 200r4 built right guys?
and retain at least some od
Pleanty of fast buicks still keep a 2004r
Heres a nice gn thred also.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=203086
why not have the 200r4 built right guys?
and retain at least some od
Pleanty of fast buicks still keep a 2004r
Heres a nice gn thred also.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=203086
not confidence enough to run one on a 200 or 700.
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Originally posted by 85GN&88TA
. A stock 86/87 turbo is good for mid 12's I
. A stock 86/87 turbo is good for mid 12's I
transbrake.
not confidence enough to run one on a 200 or 700.
not confidence enough to run one on a 200 or 700.
On 700, forget it..I don't care how built up it is it won't take a T-brake just because of the way it was designed....
I'm sticking with my 700 for now since it's built up...My concern is the steep first gear..might be too quick to allow the turbo to spool up before having to shift into 2nd...we'll see come springtime.
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eh, ill stick with the th350 or 400. i just don't like the idea of spending money on something with OD and having it go south when im only driving the car to the track and out on the weekends 1 or 2 nights.
i do agree that the 200 can be built to take it. just not worth the money for me.
i do agree that the 200 can be built to take it. just not worth the money for me.
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Originally posted by BigMike92Z
eh, ill stick with the th350 or 400. i just don't like the idea of spending money on something with OD and having it go south when im only driving the car to the track and out on the weekends 1 or 2 nights.
i do agree that the 200 can be built to take it. just not worth the money for me.
eh, ill stick with the th350 or 400. i just don't like the idea of spending money on something with OD and having it go south when im only driving the car to the track and out on the weekends 1 or 2 nights.
i do agree that the 200 can be built to take it. just not worth the money for me.
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Car: I've had 4 thrid gens!!
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Is this anyones car on here........do you guys know?
Featured car of the month over at gnttpe.org
http://www.gnttype.org/carofthemonth...omdetails.html
Later Nick
Featured car of the month over at gnttpe.org
http://www.gnttype.org/carofthemonth...omdetails.html
Later Nick
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Car: 1989 TTA #1240
Engine: 3.8 SFI turbo
Transmission: 2004r
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Hey fly why not pick up a 2.77 rear instead of 3.23's. That'll make your 1st gear multiplication an 8.4762 instead of 9.88. That should help hold the aluminum drum together in that 700 run deep outta the hole into second before hitting third a little before the traps. Something you may wanna think about.
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Originally posted by PETE
Hey fly why not pick up a 2.77 rear instead of 3.23's. That'll make your 1st gear multiplication an 8.4762 instead of 9.88. That should help hold the aluminum drum together in that 700 run deep outta the hole into second before hitting third a little before the traps. Something you may wanna think about.
Hey fly why not pick up a 2.77 rear instead of 3.23's. That'll make your 1st gear multiplication an 8.4762 instead of 9.88. That should help hold the aluminum drum together in that 700 run deep outta the hole into second before hitting third a little before the traps. Something you may wanna think about.
damn, you're still alive!! lol
nah, I'm not gonna go through all that...new gears, new carrier...if anything I'd switch trannies after the 700 blows up lol
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Car: 1989 TTA #1240
Engine: 3.8 SFI turbo
Transmission: 2004r
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Spent most of the year working 1400 hours of o/t . Also don't frequent here as much as I used to. Spend a lot of time on tb.com and www. turbobuicks.com Magna section. #3 blew and am now getting a rebuild some ported heads and intake springs new dp new turbo wg, converter went in a 100 miles ago. Still waiting on assembly. Prolly trw forged shou;ld put it at a little under 9 to 1 and with 20 psi hoping for bottom 11's
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Originally posted by PETE
Spent most of the year working 1400 hours of o/t . Also don't frequent here as much as I used to. Spend a lot of time on tb.com and www. turbobuicks.com Magna section. #3 blew and am now getting a rebuild some ported heads and intake springs new dp new turbo wg, converter went in a 100 miles ago. Still waiting on assembly. Prolly trw forged shou;ld put it at a little under 9 to 1 and with 20 psi hoping for bottom 11's
Spent most of the year working 1400 hours of o/t . Also don't frequent here as much as I used to. Spend a lot of time on tb.com and www. turbobuicks.com Magna section. #3 blew and am now getting a rebuild some ported heads and intake springs new dp new turbo wg, converter went in a 100 miles ago. Still waiting on assembly. Prolly trw forged shou;ld put it at a little under 9 to 1 and with 20 psi hoping for bottom 11's
ported heads, 214/210 cam, ATR 3'' DP and external wastegate(coming next week) the TE60 turbo I have sitting right here, big necks added to the intercooler and some other things
Going for high 11's on good 'ol 94..we'll see
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Car: 1989 TTA #1240
Engine: 3.8 SFI turbo
Transmission: 2004r
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haven't decided on cam maybe a 208 204 some good work to the heads. In the process of being done currently. A new tc may be in order after the work is done. I am gonna rip out the bumpersspare anything with removable weight and shoot for the moon.
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Car: 1989 TTA #1240
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shoot me your aim address when i get it back providing there isn't 4 feet of snow on the ground(seems like it already). Maybe we can meet up, got a buddy with TTA343 we can go terrorize some ricers!
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Car: 1989 TTA #1240
Engine: 3.8 SFI turbo
Transmission: 2004r
Axle/Gears: 3.27
No I'm in NJ. I believe there are 4 TTA's in NJ that I know of, maybe more.
It's gonna be 39* out tonight great turbo weather. Wish I had mine back!
It's gonna be 39* out tonight great turbo weather. Wish I had mine back!
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Originally posted by PETE
No I'm in NJ. I believe there are 4 TTA's in NJ that I know of, maybe more.
It's gonna be 39* out tonight great turbo weather. Wish I had mine back!
No I'm in NJ. I believe there are 4 TTA's in NJ that I know of, maybe more.
It's gonna be 39* out tonight great turbo weather. Wish I had mine back!
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do some searching you do not need as much money as you think. I know of someone in particular running a n/a crank,rods, and hyper pistons(i believe) well into the 11's. It's not about what it is built with as much as how it is built and ran. Even a 750hp nascar smallblock will blowup if it isn't tune correctly. The best advice ever given on a turbo buick engine is don't worry about anythin in the engine except airflow. The heads are a huge bottleneck. If you can open up the intake slightly(all that's needed), Fully port the exhaust runner, cut down the valve guides and smooth and polish the chambers the engine will make the same power at12psi that it did at 20 psi because there's less restriction. Boost is just a measurement of the restriction inside the intake tract.
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Originally posted by PETE
do some searching you do not need as much money as you think. I know of someone in particular running a n/a crank,rods, and hyper pistons(i believe) well into the 11's. It's not about what it is built with as much as how it is built and ran. Even a 750hp nascar smallblock will blowup if it isn't tune correctly. The best advice ever given on a turbo buick engine is don't worry about anythin in the engine except airflow. The heads are a huge bottleneck. If you can open up the intake slightly(all that's needed), Fully port the exhaust runner, cut down the valve guides and smooth and polish the chambers the engine will make the same power at12psi that it did at 20 psi because there's less restriction. Boost is just a measurement of the restriction inside the intake tract.
do some searching you do not need as much money as you think. I know of someone in particular running a n/a crank,rods, and hyper pistons(i believe) well into the 11's. It's not about what it is built with as much as how it is built and ran. Even a 750hp nascar smallblock will blowup if it isn't tune correctly. The best advice ever given on a turbo buick engine is don't worry about anythin in the engine except airflow. The heads are a huge bottleneck. If you can open up the intake slightly(all that's needed), Fully port the exhaust runner, cut down the valve guides and smooth and polish the chambers the engine will make the same power at12psi that it did at 20 psi because there's less restriction. Boost is just a measurement of the restriction inside the intake tract.
i did plan on having the heads ported/polished and i will look into doing the intake as well now that you mention it. would you recommend putting on a main girdle while i have things torn apart?
thank you for the advice.
mike
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Car: 1989 TTA #1240
Engine: 3.8 SFI turbo
Transmission: 2004r
Axle/Gears: 3.27
The problem witha girdle in an Fbody is that the girdle pushes the oil pan lower towards the ground in turn causing interferance with the k member. The only people I know that can fit a girdle have a tubular kmember.
If I was planning on big power numbers from the stock 109 block I would do the following(in regards to money it all depends on how much you wanna spend).
1. Billet caps would be a must.
2. Fully ported heads(especially the exhaust runner), 5 angle valve job, ferrara valves,LT1 springs and polished chambers. Fully ported heads would prolly fetch around $1500
3. ATR makes a very good upgraded connecting rod.
4. Cast crank(turbo cranks come with rolled fillets, just need to polish the journals).
5. High volume oil pump.
6. Finally take it to someone reputible to assemble it. If the clearance on the mains or rods are off there goes all your time and money in a short period of time. I won't yell out some names for you to check with as far as assembly, but you can search the tb site and you should come up with 4 or 5 names to speak to.
My engine is in the process of being rebuilt with trw's, stock rods, stock TTA crank, decent port work and valve job w/new springs. A slightly different turbo than my old combo. Car started out last year as almost a 14 sec car. With about 1200 in upgrades and replacintg factory missing or broken parts it got down to 12.7 @ 114mph at 18 psi(low boost for some people).
You could opt to save a few bucks and not go all out on the heads just have the chambers polish and definately some bowl work. Any good tr head guy will have varying stages of porting along with prices. Stock rods hold up very well some say well into the 500hp range. You could use them just get em magged and reconditioned. Can't skimp on the oil pump. As far as pistons forgings are a definite need. TRW's are very popular, inexpensive, and hold up very well. However they are very heavy compared to the other high dollar pistons. I was told that the pin is where the TRW stacks up most of it's weight.
Concentrate on the heads and assembly. Once you have the foundation you can build on it later. AS far as injectors go. Some have had luck with the 42.5lb/hr(aka 009's), However I would recommend going with MSD 50's. The smaller the engine the larger the injector will have to be for that given cylinder. Then once you get some time under your belt with a smaller turbo you can mouve up to a larger one and not worry about your injectors till you get to the big shaft turbos. Good luck and happy hunting!!!!
If I was planning on big power numbers from the stock 109 block I would do the following(in regards to money it all depends on how much you wanna spend).
1. Billet caps would be a must.
2. Fully ported heads(especially the exhaust runner), 5 angle valve job, ferrara valves,LT1 springs and polished chambers. Fully ported heads would prolly fetch around $1500
3. ATR makes a very good upgraded connecting rod.
4. Cast crank(turbo cranks come with rolled fillets, just need to polish the journals).
5. High volume oil pump.
6. Finally take it to someone reputible to assemble it. If the clearance on the mains or rods are off there goes all your time and money in a short period of time. I won't yell out some names for you to check with as far as assembly, but you can search the tb site and you should come up with 4 or 5 names to speak to.
My engine is in the process of being rebuilt with trw's, stock rods, stock TTA crank, decent port work and valve job w/new springs. A slightly different turbo than my old combo. Car started out last year as almost a 14 sec car. With about 1200 in upgrades and replacintg factory missing or broken parts it got down to 12.7 @ 114mph at 18 psi(low boost for some people).
You could opt to save a few bucks and not go all out on the heads just have the chambers polish and definately some bowl work. Any good tr head guy will have varying stages of porting along with prices. Stock rods hold up very well some say well into the 500hp range. You could use them just get em magged and reconditioned. Can't skimp on the oil pump. As far as pistons forgings are a definite need. TRW's are very popular, inexpensive, and hold up very well. However they are very heavy compared to the other high dollar pistons. I was told that the pin is where the TRW stacks up most of it's weight.
Concentrate on the heads and assembly. Once you have the foundation you can build on it later. AS far as injectors go. Some have had luck with the 42.5lb/hr(aka 009's), However I would recommend going with MSD 50's. The smaller the engine the larger the injector will have to be for that given cylinder. Then once you get some time under your belt with a smaller turbo you can mouve up to a larger one and not worry about your injectors till you get to the big shaft turbos. Good luck and happy hunting!!!!
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