David Petersen

Hello all. I searched but coun't find much so I thought I would just ask. I am currently doing a LT1 swap and have LT4 heads and and intake to use. I am going to have build the motor rebuilt with forged parts. In order to meet my HP goals, the shop I am going to have build it sugested I go to a 383 as it is only $500 more since I am buying all new parts already.

I was told by others that 383 can shorten the life of the engine and is more prone to premature failure than say a 355. Is this just a few peoples opinton or does it depent more on the engine builder than the 383 set up its self??
Any sotries, comments or insite?
For more on the parts to be included please see link.
http://www.cmotorsports.com/lt1shortblocks.htm

Kory-88Iroc 350 tpi

iTrader: (1)

If the block is properly clearanced for the stroker crank I cannot see any reason that a properly built 383 wouldn't last as long as a 355.
I would like to know what the people who told you that base their opinion on. It doesn't make any sense to me.
Just my .02
Kory

level

alot of poeple also told me that my engine wouldn't last. they said because of increased clynder side wall pressure?

David Petersen

Mosly I have just heard horror stories of motors letting go or needing to be redone after 20K miles. As the people I asked really had no background into the engine build could just be that the motors weren't built right etc etc.
I think I really just want the .02 from a few people who have 383's in the past or currently that can say;

it is a great way to go
or
yes it does cause premature wear but not enough to stay away from it if it isn't abused
or
it isn't worth the extra money for HP gained
or
..............................

Air_Adam

I also don't see why you'd have a problem if its built properly. Its based on a 400's crank, and I've seen 400s well over 200k.

That thing about more cylinder wall wear really is only a problem if you spin the daylights outta the engine. If you drive it like you paid for it (and not like you stole it, lol) it should be healthy and happy for quite a while.

David Petersen

Well now that makes total sense to me. If I set the reve limiter to around 6,000 RPM and just keep the high reves limited to track runs and once in a while I will be fine. Although the engine builder I will have do the work says I could go higher I will take some reliablity over HP. Although I would think I should brake even with the gain of the 383 over the 355.

Kory-88Iroc 350 tpi

iTrader: (1)

The sideloading the piston issue is not all that applicable. It used to be an issue when guys would build 383s with a 400 crank and short 400 rods. If you use 5.7 350 rods or longer 6.0 inch rods its really not an issue. If its built properly and balanced correctly you can rev the snot out of it and have no problems.
A friend of mine hase a 383 is his 95 ta. It is a stock block .030 over with a 4 bolt conversion, a scat 9000 stroker crank,stock resized rods with arp wavelock bolts and je/srp forged pistons. It was machined properly and all clearances were checked accurately during assembly. He is making 618whp with an aftercooled vortec blower and about 10lbs of boost. It revs to 7k regularily.
It is totally reliable.
Just my .02
Kory

HybridZ28

You know since you are willing to pay the extra 500. for a 383.. might as well go all out to the 396

Matt86t/a

Hey Dave. I haven't heard anything about 383 unreliability, but I was wondering where you got your LT1, and for how much? I would love an LT1. They sound soooo nice with a decent exhaust. Gotta love the LT1 firing order

~Matt

David Petersen

I bought the LT1 off Ebay from a wrecking yard in Florida. It was $800 shipped. It was pretty stripped at the time I didn't mind as it was low miles and I was going to just buy Corvette accesoires for it, as I wanted the Corvette setup but not the Corvette LT1 price. Anyway I think I broke about even if I had just bought a complete corvette setup. So just a word to the wise to pay a little up front and get most everything you need and save yourself some time and hassle tyring to track down parts later. The LT1 swap can get expensive if you don't plan it right as LT1 parts are more expensive that TPI or TBI parts. Sorry I had to drop that in there seems I did everything the hard way and although I learned a ton, every mistake added $$$ to the prodject.
There are lots of places to get LT1's I tracked them on Ebay and kept a spreadsheet for 6 months to get the average selling price and to know when I saw a good deal while I saved money to buy. There are a ton of Corvette, F-Body, IMpalla and LT1 specific internet sites that can put you in touch with a motor as this is a very popular motor. Best way is to start with your local boneyards and save shipping.
Sorry I will stop now....

Matt86t/a

Thanks Dave. What are the sites for those cars you mentioned above? I would preferably like just a f-body LT1, since the corvettes are expensive and the impalas weren't as cool

~Matt