DTL504

iTrader: (1)

I went to the machine shop today to get an estimate for the work that I want done to my 400 SBC. What do you all think about the prices: Here is what I told them I wanted done. If I missed anything please let me know. The engine has already been hot tank & cleaned.

Rebore-Hone w/Deck Plate= $240.00
Deck Block= $150.00
Federal Mogul Cam Bearing= $24.00
Install Cam Bearing= $30.00
Align Hone (Mains) Check= $25.00
Align Hone (Mains) If needed= $135.00 w/n get charge the $25.00 to check.
Tap Front 3 Oil Gallery1/4 NPT= $15.00
Tap Starter Bolt Hole= $30.00

TOTAL PRICE $ 514.00 W/O Align Hone Mains
$ 624.00 W/Align Hone Mains

This is a very reputable guy in Ga. and was highly recommended by a professional Speed shop owners who build hot rod engine and have won numerous boat and car races.

jharms

I can only tell you what I did when it came to an engine shop. I called up every singe one, and I got an estimate. And then I called up this guy name Glenn Schottler. I asked for an estimate on the 455 Olds. I was going to have built and you know what he said? (when everyone else would look at a book and say around $750 for a short-block) he said "I'm mercenary! I'll charge as much as I can get!" He then told me however to visit him in person. So I did. Yes, he was a little more expensive than other places, but he met me in person, showed me his equipment and told what EXACTLY he could do for me, which was anything when it came to motors. SO I sucked it up and spent the extra $$$ for the quality was worth it. That's what I did. Whatever you do, check out lots of places first.

ede

you're paying a lot more than i do here, but prices vary and from what i've seen i must have the cheapest shop in the USA. lot of that you could do your self for a few dollars worth of tools that you'd have forever.

ED3196499

I have a 400 in my Chevelle and had alot of the same stuff done I would make sure you have the block and heads pressure tested 400's are famous for cracks around the steam holes on the heads and on the block. I would also recommend having the rotating assembly balanced it cost a little more but its worth it

RB83L69

Never buy machine work from the low bidder. The reason the guy that charges alot can get away with it, is because people who win use him. Losers use the low bidder.

Go find out who does the machine for the circle track racers in your area who win, and pay what they ask. He might be the cheapest, he might be the most expensive, who cares, the most expensive is still cheaper than the cheapest one doing it twice, plus all the parts you'll have to buy again when they screw up, plus all your own labor and aggravation. Then you'll have a shot at winning too instead of being one of the rest who don't even finish because their motor broke, and so have no chance whasoever of winning.

I can't think of anything worse that can happen to my daily driver than for the motor in it, that I built, to break. I drove mine 554 miles at work today, and about 600 miles from Monday to Wednesday, wearing dress clothes, with the A/C on; unfortunately I didn't get to toast a single Mustang all day, on all that road there just weren't any. In January I drove the same car and motor 2500 miles from California to Ohio in two and a half days. I don't have to worry about failures even in this type of usage; guess what, today I have to go to (name the place), I jump in, turn the key, stop at the gas station, and I'm there. Do you think the cheapest motor builder you can find would give you that kind of reliability?

When I was building race motors for people, that was my selling point.... mine would finish. In order to finish first, you must first finish the race. Mine finished races alot more than most other people's. I had all the business I could stand.

kevinc

Have them install the freeze plugs for about $30...not worth the trouble doing it yourself.

I didn't see any work on the rods or crank, you buying new? If you're reusing the rods, you'll want new cap bolts and resizing. If reusing the crank, you'll want it ground undersize and polished.

Also didn't see them pressing the pistons onto the rods, you using floating pins? If using conventional wrist pins and pistons, you'll want the shop to press them on.

Good luck!

igotslicksNchix

anyone know if hot tanking or resurfacing the deck are really necessary in rebuilding a motor? just for regular street use?

kevinc

Hot tanking is only necessary if you want it clean inside and out. Decking is optional if the deck surface is flat (machine shop can check) but if you're really after that extra bit of HP you'll have it decked to yield the right (read: minimum) clearance between the piston top and the heads' quench area. Less clearance here makes for better burn efficiency and less detonation.