84 Z washer pump
#1
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 98
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From: detroit
Car: 84 z
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700
Axle/Gears: auto overdrive
84 Z washer pump
The pump is good, tested in two separate wiper motors, No H2o from either. The column switch is new. With ignition on and wipers running, a test light shows power in the yellow green and gray wires but no power in the pink. Any ideas please and thanks.
#2
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From: Meriden, CT 06450
Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
Engine: 334 SBC - stroked 305 M4ME Q-Jet
Transmission: upgraded 700R4 3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 4.10 Posi w Lakewood TA Bars
Re: 84 Z washer pump
About the pump - it's a fluid pump, not an air pump.
It needs to be primed first.
This assumes that the seals in the pump are good.
Also make sure there are no restrictions in the fluid line.
It needs to be primed first.
This assumes that the seals in the pump are good.
Also make sure there are no restrictions in the fluid line.
#3
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: 84 Z washer pump
My 85 is equipped with the rear washer/wiper. The pump did require priming before it would function. BTW, the taste of washer fluid won't please!
JamesC
JamesC
#6
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 26,551
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: 84 Z washer pump
If the pump is not getting power, it's because of a switch or wiring problem.
Best thing to do would be to first, carefully examine all the wiring connection points you can find in the system, starting at the pump end (where it's most exposed to the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune), and working back toward the switch. It's SOOOOOPPPPPER simple; one single wire, pink if memory serves. Pump: yes/no. That's all there is to it. One side of the little solenoid in there has 12V whenever the key is On (white I think it was), the switch grounds the pink wire to make it work. When working properly you should see 12V on the pink wire when not in use, then it should go to 0V when you operate the switch on the column.
That said, the pump they used in these cars is TOTAL CRAP. A refugee from the 60s. There are a number of things about the way it works that VIRTUALLY ALWAYS fail. My 83 failed once such that it wouldn't turn off (there's a little cam thing in there that is supposed to turn once, making about 8 shots or so of fluid, then "park" in a position ready for the next use; it failed to "park"), and acoupla times it just wouldn't work period. I got sick of fixing and/or replacing it.
Do what I did, once you get the power problem resolved. I just went to the parts store and got a "universal" pump, screwed it to something close to the washer bottle, and extended the factory wiring over to it. Didn't even have to change the plumbing except to cut it near the bottle and union it at the factory POS. Eventually I even found some wiper arms off of some car that had the squirter in the arm that drops the fluid uniformly onto the glass instead of the stooooopid "jet" things the car came with, so I could use it at any speed. Made the whole thing actually USEFUL instead of just another failure-prone 70s crap electric gewgaw.
Best thing to do would be to first, carefully examine all the wiring connection points you can find in the system, starting at the pump end (where it's most exposed to the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune), and working back toward the switch. It's SOOOOOPPPPPER simple; one single wire, pink if memory serves. Pump: yes/no. That's all there is to it. One side of the little solenoid in there has 12V whenever the key is On (white I think it was), the switch grounds the pink wire to make it work. When working properly you should see 12V on the pink wire when not in use, then it should go to 0V when you operate the switch on the column.
That said, the pump they used in these cars is TOTAL CRAP. A refugee from the 60s. There are a number of things about the way it works that VIRTUALLY ALWAYS fail. My 83 failed once such that it wouldn't turn off (there's a little cam thing in there that is supposed to turn once, making about 8 shots or so of fluid, then "park" in a position ready for the next use; it failed to "park"), and acoupla times it just wouldn't work period. I got sick of fixing and/or replacing it.
Do what I did, once you get the power problem resolved. I just went to the parts store and got a "universal" pump, screwed it to something close to the washer bottle, and extended the factory wiring over to it. Didn't even have to change the plumbing except to cut it near the bottle and union it at the factory POS. Eventually I even found some wiper arms off of some car that had the squirter in the arm that drops the fluid uniformly onto the glass instead of the stooooopid "jet" things the car came with, so I could use it at any speed. Made the whole thing actually USEFUL instead of just another failure-prone 70s crap electric gewgaw.
Last edited by sofakingdom; 10-10-2021 at 09:10 AM.
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NoEmissions84TA (10-10-2021), T.L. (10-10-2021)
#7
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From: 212 is up in this Bit@#
Car: Resto-Mod 1987 IROC-Z Clone
Engine: Alky fed L92 Vortec Twin-Turbo 6.8L
Transmission: My own built/ design 4L80M
Axle/Gears: Custom 12 bolt (4.10:1)
Re: 84 Z washer pump
When Wiper-Motor Cores were more plentiful...
I updated all the early Cars to the 1988+ Motor, Cover/ PCB, Electrical-Connectors, Washer-Tank, and Washer-Pump.
I never had a Customer that did not like it.
I updated all the early Cars to the 1988+ Motor, Cover/ PCB, Electrical-Connectors, Washer-Tank, and Washer-Pump.
I never had a Customer that did not like it.
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OrangeBird (10-10-2021)
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#8
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,810
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From: 212 is up in this Bit@#
Car: Resto-Mod 1987 IROC-Z Clone
Engine: Alky fed L92 Vortec Twin-Turbo 6.8L
Transmission: My own built/ design 4L80M
Axle/Gears: Custom 12 bolt (4.10:1)
Re: 84 Z washer pump
Now-a-days I have been Prototyping a Cut-and-Weld in section of Fire-Wall that mounts a Wiper-Motor from Suburbans.
It still uses the 1988+ Tank and Pump.
The Electrical-Connectors just need to be changed over.
It also sits tighter to the Cowl.
I'll take some photos, when I am happy with it.
It still uses the 1988+ Tank and Pump.
The Electrical-Connectors just need to be changed over.
It also sits tighter to the Cowl.
I'll take some photos, when I am happy with it.
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OrangeBird (10-10-2021)
#9
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 98
Likes: 4
From: detroit
Car: 84 z
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700
Axle/Gears: auto overdrive
Re: 84 Z washer pump
Thanks for your reply. My current motor was bought out of an 85 Buick sold as with delay. Nether they or the pump are working. Replaced the column switch with a cheep Dorman. Thinking about trying a $47 GM part. Also looking at the wells C03345 switch ( says it well fit my car) 84Z. Although it doesn't look quiet the same as the white plastic gizzmo on the lower column with the small bent rod protruding out toward the wheel. Don't know what that is for sure. Keep hearing that the switch is inside the column witch is beyond me. Thanks for or consideration here. P.S. high and low work.
#10
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,810
Likes: 765
From: 212 is up in this Bit@#
Car: Resto-Mod 1987 IROC-Z Clone
Engine: Alky fed L92 Vortec Twin-Turbo 6.8L
Transmission: My own built/ design 4L80M
Axle/Gears: Custom 12 bolt (4.10:1)
Re: 84 Z washer pump
I do not recall the Switches being problematic.
However, people who are "Very Active" after hours, in their Cars...
Often kick or hit the Multi-Function Lever, and damage it.
However, people who are "Very Active" after hours, in their Cars...
Often kick or hit the Multi-Function Lever, and damage it.
#11
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 98
Likes: 4
From: detroit
Car: 84 z
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700
Axle/Gears: auto overdrive
Re: 84 Z washer pump
Ok thanks , I'll try checking the voltage at the pump wires. And just now a distributor module replaced only 100 miles ago has died. Well try to replace it myself this time and save a couple 100 $. Good days driving to you.
#13
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,810
Likes: 765
From: 212 is up in this Bit@#
Car: Resto-Mod 1987 IROC-Z Clone
Engine: Alky fed L92 Vortec Twin-Turbo 6.8L
Transmission: My own built/ design 4L80M
Axle/Gears: Custom 12 bolt (4.10:1)
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