When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My starter stuck on a couple of times several months ago, but would unstick by turning the key back and forth a few times. Recently it got a lot worse and wouldn't stop at all the other day. The battery ran down and the starter smoked before I could get the battery cable off. (I need to install a kill switch) '87 5.7 converted to MAP and no VATS. The key doesn't strongly spring back from start to run, but I can twist it back. I can also move the rod that runs down the steering column at the same time. They seem to be in-synch. Doing both over and over did not shut off the starter. Simultaneous to this sticking the other day, the engine also wouldn't fire. Prior to this it would consistently start right up. (Fuel is good at rails per gauge and injectors ohm'd good the day before.) Could there be an issue with the module that the little rod on the steering column goes into? That's where the mechanical action of turning the key cylinder appears to be converted to electronic signal. Or just an issue within the starter? Thanks for any help!
NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO
They call them "kill switches" for A REASON. That reason is, because if you install one, it KILLS your car. DON'T. Just, DON'T. Doesn't matter what your problem is; THAT is NOT the solution.
If the whole key/rod/switch thing isn't right, FIX IT. These cars didn't need a "kill switch" when they were new. Don't need it now. FIND what's farkled, and FIX IT.
There's no "electronic signal" in these cars. They're FAR too old for any of that. "They" had JUST BAARELY invented "electronics" when these were built. (speaking strictly as a mathematician and physicist from the days BEFORE THAT when those were NOT a marketable skill, and I drifted into electronic engineering in the 70s because it was EEEEEEEEEEZZZZZZY to me, and would put food on my table, LOTS of food actually) These cars are from the STONE AGE. For the most part, things depend on contacts - large pieces of metal with battery power on them - touching, and being able to carry enough current to operate whatever device is supposed to operate. Which, the starter solenoid, requires a fairly high current, Gotta have a pretty good reliable contact for that.
Sounds to me like your car needs an ignition switch. I'd start there. Costs maybe $20, takes maybe 10 minutes to change it out if you're slow like me, and you stop every 30 seconds or so to open a fresh cold rejuvenating enjoyable adult beverage; but you're obviously much faster than me. So, call it, HALF of those times. Just do it. Don't bother arguing, don't bother with the "but but but but but", don't bother with "I've already replaced the [fill in the blank]", don't waste put time on "I only drive it to church on Sundays". JUST DO IT.
The starter cranked and cranked no matter what I did with the ignition cylinder.
Originally Posted by sofakingdom
They call them "kill switches" for A REASON. That reason is, because if you install one, it KILLS your car. DON'T. Just, DON'T. Doesn't matter what your problem is; THAT is NOT the solution.
If the whole key/rod/switch thing isn't right, FIX IT. These cars didn't need a "kill switch" when they were new. Don't need it now. FIND what's farkled, and FIX IT.
I meant a manual kill switch at the battery in case anything runs away like this. I'm not saying that is the fix. I'm saying that if it had one, I could have stopped the starter quickly and prevented the battery from running down and the starter from smoking. (Might be fried)
Originally Posted by sofakingdom
There's no "electronic signal" in these cars. They're FAR too old for any of that. "They" had JUST BAARELY invented "electronics" when these were built. (speaking strictly as a mathematician and physicist from the days BEFORE THAT when those were NOT a marketable skill, and I drifted into electronic engineering in the 70s because it was EEEEEEEEEEZZZZZZY to me, and would put food on my table, LOTS of food actually) These cars are from the STONE AGE. For the most part, things depend on contacts - large pieces of metal with battery power on them - touching, and being able to carry enough current to operate whatever device is supposed to operate. Which, the starter solenoid, requires a fairly high current, Gotta have a pretty good reliable contact for that.
Sounds to me like your car needs an ignition switch. I'd start there. Costs maybe $20, takes maybe 10 minutes to change it out if you're slow like me, and you stop every 30 seconds or so to open a fresh cold rejuvenating enjoyable adult beverage; but you're obviously much faster than me. So, call it, HALF of those times. Just do it. Don't bother arguing, don't bother with the "but but but but but", don't bother with "I've already replaced the [fill in the blank]", don't waste put time on "I only drive it to church on Sundays". JUST DO IT.
What I was initially, poorly describing above is the ignition switch, where the rod from the key cylinder attaches. I thought it might need replacing anyway due to the less that firm spring return on the key cylinder. I'll source one and go from there. Thanks.
Sounds to me like your car needs an ignition switch. I'd start there. Costs maybe $20, takes maybe 10 minutes to change it out if you're slow like me, and you stop every 30 seconds or so to open a fresh cold rejuvenating enjoyable adult beverage; but you're obviously much faster than me. So, call it, HALF of those times. Just do it. Don't bother arguing, don't bother with the "but but but but but", don't bother with "I've already replaced the [fill in the blank]", don't waste put time on "I only drive it to church on Sundays". JUST DO IT.
I replaced the ignition switch on the steering column with an ACDelco unit. The old one was falling apart. I also replaced the starter with a rebuilt unit. No change. The starter still sticks on after I turn the key back. The rod from the key cylinder to the ignition switch moves back and forth. That seems ok. The engine also doesn't start. There is fuel at the rails per the pressure gauge there. I can check spark and go from there. Of the two problems, the sticking starter seems to be the biggest issue now. I don't know what could cause that. Any ideas? Thanks
'Looks like you have multiple issues going on. Last year I had a brand new starter from AutoZone refuse to stop cranking. 'Had to disconnect the battery like you did. It happened while using a remote start switch, so nothing to do with the ignition switch. 'Took the starter back & exchanged it for another new one. So far no problems...
'Looks like you have multiple issues going on. Last year I had a brand new starter from AutoZone refuse to stop cranking. 'Had to disconnect the battery like you did. It happened while using a remote start switch, so nothing to do with the ignition switch. 'Took the starter back & exchanged it for another new one. So far no problems...
The old starter was working fine until it started sticking. And it's now happening with the new rebuild. So both of them. Seems like the odds are against that, but who knows. I'm wondering if it's a different component, like the ECU.
Stop guessing and fix the starter issue.
Did you bother to check the gear clearance with a paper clip?
Are you using the correct starter bolts?
When the old starter cooked, did the wires cook also?
It sounds like you might just need a starter shim, if you're lucky.
Stop guessing and fix the starter issue.
Did you bother to check the gear clearance with a paper clip?
Are you using the correct starter bolts?
When the old starter cooked, did the wires cook also?
It sounds like you might just need a starter shim, if you're lucky.
I used the shim that was already in place. I did not add another. The rebuild did not come with any.
The old starter wires did not cook, but the unit smoked a lot.
I used the existing bolts, but I'm not sure if they are correct. One bolt has three washers on it, which seems odd. They seem to hold the starter in place ok.
I painted the starter drive gear and it seems to mesh in the correct area. I also measured the distance between drive gear shaft and the flex plate using a 1/8" allen key. It fits perfectly. I was not able to check with a paper clip because I couldn't pull the drive gear into the flex plate teeth. I tried a lot, but I just couldn't get them to align manually. So perhaps the spacing is not correct after all? Should I try adding another shim?
I also had a starter stick on (cranking), scary when you just pulled up to the gas pump, turn the key off, and the engine keeps cranking.
Pop the hood, grab the battery terminals and they are tight, things are smoking now and getting hot. Worried about burning down the gas station.
Those starter noses vary, sometimes they get machined when they are remanufactured, which is why a shim might be necessary.
Add another shim and give it a try. It sounds like you do not have the correct bolts.
They should look like this: Dorman 45640 $5.99
........ I'm wondering if it's a different component, like the ECU.
The one thing I can help you with, with 101% certainty, is that your ECU has absolutely nothing to do with the operation of your starter. You could unplug the ECU and set it on the back seat of the car and your starter would still be able to crank the engine, of course crank is all it would do, no ECM means no injector pulse = no start. So, whatever your actual problem is, it ain't in any way ECU related......
I also had a starter stick on (cranking), scary when you just pulled up to the gas pump, turn the key off, and the engine keeps cranking.
Pop the hood, grab the battery terminals and they are tight, things are smoking now and getting hot. Worried about burning down the gas station.
Those starter noses vary, sometimes they get machined when they are remanufactured, which is why a shim might be necessary.
Add another shim and give it a try. It sounds like you do not have the correct bolts.
They should look like this: Dorman 45640 $5.99
I'll get the bolts and an assorted shim kit. Thanks.
The one thing I can help you with, with 101% certainty, is that your ECU has absolutely nothing to do with the operation of your starter. You could unplug the ECU and set it on the back seat of the car and your starter would still be able to crank the engine, of course crank is all it would do, no ECM means no injector pulse = no start. So, whatever your actual problem is, it ain't in any way ECU related......
Thanks for confirming. Was just grasping there. Will focus on the starter.
07-02-2021, 07:33 PM
