Stock Tachometer is not working.
05-01-2020, 11:55 PM
#1
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Stock Tachometer is not working.
I have a 1985 Camaro IROC-Z. My tach is stuck at 7000 rpm, when the car started it was at 0 then shot up straight to 7000 rpm. The car runs fine but the tach is failing. I don't know if its the connectors or if its the circuit board. But all of the other gauges work fine. Any answers?
05-02-2020, 03:00 AM
#2
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Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Transmission: Auto
Re: Stock Tachometer is not working.
The circuit board of the tacho is know to fail due to heat of the backlighting bulbs. There are several threads about this on the forum and I had the same issue.
A guy makes replacement circuit boards that you can install easily. And when you do; replace the backlighting bulbs with LED's. Generates no heat and will prevent the issue from happening again.
The circuitboards can be found on eBay; https://ebay.us/flh4Nm
A guy makes replacement circuit boards that you can install easily. And when you do; replace the backlighting bulbs with LED's. Generates no heat and will prevent the issue from happening again.
The circuitboards can be found on eBay; https://ebay.us/flh4Nm
05-02-2020, 05:05 AM
#3
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z 305 LB9 AT Convertible
Engine: LB9 305
Transmission: AT
Re: Stock Tachometer is not working.
"IROCK", are the LED's plug and play? How about a link and/or part #? Thanks.
05-02-2020, 06:57 PM
#4
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Re: Stock Tachometer is not working.
Alright thanks. I appreciate it! I had already ordered led's for the entire interior anyways so just more of a reason to do it.
05-02-2020, 07:01 PM
#5
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Re: Stock Tachometer is not working.
The LED's are super easy to replace, you just take out the old ones and put in the new ones, they fit like if they came with the car. the bulb number is 194 for the dash lights
05-02-2020, 08:22 PM
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z 305 LB9 AT Convertible
Engine: LB9 305
Transmission: AT
Re: Stock Tachometer is not working.
Bulb # 194 is incandescent. I am very familiar with it. Are you saying there is an LED that will plug into the socket, for a 194 bulb? What number would it be? Is any modifications required? (Resistor)? Source? Brighter than a 194? (which in older cars, for older folks, is no longer bright enough, for them to read gauges, at night). Thanks.
05-04-2020, 01:02 PM
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
The Missing Link §
Sylvania LED 194SYLLED
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Here's How To Judge The IQ Of Drivers On The Street: The Longer The Time From The Green Light To The Time They Start Moving, The Lower Their IQ
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Here's How To Judge The IQ Of Drivers On The Street: The Longer The Time From The Green Light To The Time They Start Moving, The Lower Their IQ
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05-04-2020, 02:30 PM
#8
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z 305 LB9 AT Convertible
Engine: LB9 305
Transmission: AT
Re: The Missing Link §
Thanks! Amazon has them $14.75 pair. Listing says "may require a resistor". Has anyone used these in a 1982-92 F Body? Were they significantly brighter than incandescent 194? Did you need a resistor? How do yous like them. Mike C
05-04-2020, 03:29 PM
#9
Supreme Member
Re: Retrofit LED's
FWIW....
Buy name brand ones (Sylvania, Philips, etc.) or buy from places like SuperBright (https://www.superbrightleds.com/sear...-products/194/). At least they'll replace any DOA's without much hassle. My experience with ebay ones are they're crap with a capital "S".
When shopping, check the specs and buy ones with the widest beam angle or your cluster may end up having dark areas.
Some LED's will work with the dimmer, some won't (if that matters to you).
Be aware that some LED bulbs are polarity dependent. If they don't come on, turn them around in their sockets.
No need for resistors in the instrument cluster. Also, leave a regular bulb in the CEL socket. For some reason, an LED in that socket will stay on.
Buy name brand ones (Sylvania, Philips, etc.) or buy from places like SuperBright (https://www.superbrightleds.com/sear...-products/194/). At least they'll replace any DOA's without much hassle. My experience with ebay ones are they're crap with a capital "S".
When shopping, check the specs and buy ones with the widest beam angle or your cluster may end up having dark areas.
Some LED's will work with the dimmer, some won't (if that matters to you).
Be aware that some LED bulbs are polarity dependent. If they don't come on, turn them around in their sockets.
No need for resistors in the instrument cluster. Also, leave a regular bulb in the CEL socket. For some reason, an LED in that socket will stay on.
Last edited by paulo57509; 05-04-2020 at 03:34 PM.
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Tidan (05-05-2020)
05-19-2020, 01:19 AM
#12
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Re: Retrofit LED's
I replaced my regular bulb with a led in my cel socket and its working fine.
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