Acc position and possible Voltage Drain
#1
Acc position and possible Voltage Drain
First of all, where is the accessory position on the key? Any cheby I've ever owned it's one click back after putting the key in. I'm assuming on this car it's one position forward after inserting the key, but that position doesn't do anything in this car(what should it do?).
No the scary part, with the key out of the ignition the window motors still have power and I can turn the heater fan on. Is this normal?? I'm suspecting I have a voltage drain because the battery is always flat dead in the morning. The battery is weak and old but it should hold some kind of charge. I read 14.7 volts at the battery with the car running. I'm not sure where to look, I wouldn't mind rigging it to have no acc position on the key, just don't want to buy a new battery and wreck it.
No the scary part, with the key out of the ignition the window motors still have power and I can turn the heater fan on. Is this normal?? I'm suspecting I have a voltage drain because the battery is always flat dead in the morning. The battery is weak and old but it should hold some kind of charge. I read 14.7 volts at the battery with the car running. I'm not sure where to look, I wouldn't mind rigging it to have no acc position on the key, just don't want to buy a new battery and wreck it.
#2
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Re: Acc position and possible Voltage Drain
Key positions are Acc - Lock - Off - On - Start.
Off unlocks the steering wheel but doesn't turn on anything electrical.
Sounds like EITHER: some non-factory wiring aka HACK JOBS has happened, or your ign sw is misadjusted such that Acc is engaged when the key is in Lock.
NO RIGGING !!!!!! That only makes it worse.
Find the problem(s) and fix it/them.
Off unlocks the steering wheel but doesn't turn on anything electrical.
Sounds like EITHER: some non-factory wiring aka HACK JOBS has happened, or your ign sw is misadjusted such that Acc is engaged when the key is in Lock.
NO RIGGING !!!!!! That only makes it worse.
Find the problem(s) and fix it/them.
#3
Re: Acc position and possible Voltage Drain
#4
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Car: Yes
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Re: Acc position and possible Voltage Drain
Radio mostly. Wipers maybe. Not all that many things. Never really thought about it too much though.
Windows and heater both should work only in Run; might be a bit of a clue there. Either the ign sw is defective, or it's misadjusted, or somebody else has already got a head start on you in the rigging process. Which is why I give the advice about "no rigging". It ALWAYS leads to no good.
Windows and heater both should work only in Run; might be a bit of a clue there. Either the ign sw is defective, or it's misadjusted, or somebody else has already got a head start on you in the rigging process. Which is why I give the advice about "no rigging". It ALWAYS leads to no good.
#5
Re: Acc position and possible Voltage Drain
Oh boy, thats what I expected but was hoping to not be the case. The key won't move back from the lock position no matter how hard I try. Guess it's time to tear er' down
#6
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Re: Acc position and possible Voltage Drain
IIRC some columns do not have an ACC position.
If your power windows and blower motor are getting power when the key is removed ( in a car without hacked wiring ) the problem might be located inside the ignition box at the base of the steering column, or the metal rod that activates it might be out of adjustment.
If your power windows and blower motor are getting power when the key is removed ( in a car without hacked wiring ) the problem might be located inside the ignition box at the base of the steering column, or the metal rod that activates it might be out of adjustment.
#7
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