Igniton switch problems/No start when turned to start
02-15-2014, 07:14 PM
#1
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Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 350 dart ies comp cam intake carb
Transmission: 700 r4, shift kit, 2400 stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt stock
Igniton switch problems/No start when turned to start
Car is a 87 with t56 swap, I ziptied the shifter cable in Park position. The ignition switch has been replaced before and I've had issues with it in the pass not cranking when in the start position. It did it again today but its gotten far worse and I don't want to be stranded somewhere. Key over and everything lights up radio works, turn to start and nothing. I had to turn it multiple times before it finally cranked. I'm thinking this is a ignition switch problem? Does anyone have any suggestions?
Other thoughts:
When I replaced the ignition switch the turn signal cam broke soon after causing issues with hazards coming on and turn signals not working properly. I don't know if that would cause issues with it.
Other thoughts:
When I replaced the ignition switch the turn signal cam broke soon after causing issues with hazards coming on and turn signals not working properly. I don't know if that would cause issues with it.
02-18-2014, 05:42 PM
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Car Is Not Cranky . . . . SO I AM !!!!!!
Using a voltmeter or test light (the type for testing for voltage, not a continuity tester) probe the 10 AWG yellow wire coming out of the steering column.
Now, when you try to start is there power there?
If no, the problem is a defective switch, even tho new, or the connection going to it.
If there is power there when you try to start, due to the fact the problem is intermittent, you can leave a test light connected to it while using the car.
So when the starter fails to crank you will observe the test light.
If it’s illuminated the switch is good.
Then you can proceed to:
Connect a voltmeter across the M terminal and + battery terminal.
Make the leads long enuff to take the voltmeter into the cockpit.
Now when cranking note any voltage.
If you see more than a half volt there is a bad connection.
Perform the same test on the ground side by connecting the voltmeter across the ground of the starter and terminal and the ▬
battery terminal.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Slamming The Wall Is Not The Neatest Way To Remove An Engine
Now, when you try to start is there power there?
If no, the problem is a defective switch, even tho new, or the connection going to it.
If there is power there when you try to start, due to the fact the problem is intermittent, you can leave a test light connected to it while using the car.
So when the starter fails to crank you will observe the test light.
If it’s illuminated the switch is good.
Then you can proceed to:
Connect a voltmeter across the M terminal and + battery terminal.
Make the leads long enuff to take the voltmeter into the cockpit.
Now when cranking note any voltage.
If you see more than a half volt there is a bad connection.
Perform the same test on the ground side by connecting the voltmeter across the ground of the starter and terminal and the ▬
battery terminal.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Slamming The Wall Is Not The Neatest Way To Remove An Engine
02-22-2014, 10:04 AM
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Re: Igniton switch problems/No start when turned to start
Did you look into your clutch pedal safety switch? Did you properly take care of the neutral safety switch during your swap (however that may be) I had the same problem not to long ago and it ended up being as simple as my starter shorting out with the tranny lines pushed them back and fired right up. Try this link http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=38
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