RoRoYoBoat123

Hey everyone, I have a 1991 RS Camaro 305 that i really love and don't want to lose. I have a major problem though, my battery dies in less than 6 hours when left to idle, the alternator was tested and came out Good, same as the Battery and all the fuses have been pulled and tested with a Multimeter for parasitic draw and still my battery dies. I even pulled my light from the interior and redid many wires. The whole problem started after I had to change my spark plugs after running the car because I had little time so We hosed the engine down with water to cool it off enough to work on. I figured maybe it shorted something, but what can possibly draw enough power to kill a battery so much in 6 hours, that the check engine light cant even power on? I noticed a loose wire near the starter solenoid but it isnt HoT and i cut it off. Is it possible that the alternator got wet and even though it passing, that it is still drawing power? the test only proves that it works to give out power while running. I also noticed that when having my test light hooked to the negative terminal, that i can touch the light to any part, even frame work, near my starter will cause the light to light up, is this normal? Please someone help i really really dont want to lose my first car ever

HiPerf_Chevyman

Let me Just verify as we all make mistakes Typing when we are frustrated. The Test light was hooked to the negative Terminal of the battery. and you can hit the Frame with the other end of the test light and, the Light lights up? If so Dont leave the battery Hooked up anymore. This shouldnt Happen unless you were to Find a positive source and your frame shouldnt be a positive source.

What I always do is Process of elimination. Which if i was working on your car, i'd hook that test light to the Negative of the Batt. and to the Frame where its lighting up. and start unplugging things, and pulling fuses. when the light goes out. WA-LA. But first off I'd be checking that starter and its connections. I think you'll find it there......

RoRoYoBoat123

I was very serious about the frame thing, only parts near the starter do it though

RoRoYoBoat123

i already tried pulling every single fuse by putting a multimeter between the terminal and the negative line, no fuse reduced the flow

HiPerf_Chevyman

Yea, It sounds to be within the starter.whats the resistance from the POS terminal from the batter to the case? Unhook the battery negative of course.

RoRoYoBoat123

umm not sure, i do know it was pulling 3.3 Amps from wire to terminal (negative)

HiPerf_Chevyman

yea it shouldnt be with the key off........ Before you buy any parts, Check the resistance, if its got continuity from the Positive terminal to the case of the starter. You need a new one or find whats doing it........ I'd take the Wires off the starter for this test... Let me/us know what you get for a Number. or if you get "OL"....

Its possible to have water in the starter/solenoid causing the draw. Drying it out could be a option. But i wouldn't trust it personally.

And your going to need to figure out what wire you cut... did it look to be a factory wire or something somebody added?

RoRoYoBoat123

not a prob thanks

RoRoYoBoat123

um, the wire was factory and dead

HiPerf_Chevyman

i always have my facebook open, i'l be up for a few hours, any questions give me a yell... Obviously a link isnt going to help..... Nick Hall in Charlotte NC. shows a red camaro in the pic

RoRoYoBoat123

thanks

waltersb

You might have water somewhere still causing a short.... with that in mind I've hosed my engine down too but i always disconnected the battery and covered it and the alternator.

TreeFiddy

Wow quite a list there:

You let it idle for that long? Maybe your alt's not up to the job at idle speeds.


Don't do this to a hot engine, the cold water may crack the block.


Also not great thinking.


Sounds like a cable ground fault, check the block + frame connections, and the neg terminal itself. Maybe the water loosened up the corroded crud that was previously making the connection.

HiPerf_Chevyman

^^^ Last quote^^^^

if its not making a connection hows it going to drain the battery? hmm

TreeFiddy

He said the battery 'dies' and yet the battery 'tested good'. Without knowing the specifics involved in these vague descriptions, to me this implies a connection problem esp since a washing is involved. The batt is not actually getting drained - it's just not delivering power to the car properly.

waltersb

so he has a hot to ground short somewhere? surprised it hasn't melted something yet (or maybe it did already and that's the real problem) I don't understand the 6 hours idle thing... who lets their car idle for 6 hours?. chances are it's in a big wire somewhere? hot to starter or to alternator (i had to replace this once... all my fault, don't ask)

TreeFiddy

Could be anything already mentioned or something else - as usual, hard to troubleshoot online without actually being there, can only make educated guesses (esp with 'custom' wiring )

Still not exactly sure what the problem is Roro - is the battery actually going flat? Ie below 12v static across the terminals, and dropping into the abyss when you try cranking? Or is this just a no-crank or no-start, or is there no power inside the cabin at all, but the batt measures ok? Or does it start and run fine, just 'die' eventually after your marathon idle?

Ditch the test light, it won't tell you anything about polarity. Use your meter. With this 'chassis positive' thing - is the measurement across the batt terminals different to the measurement from the pos batt terminal to chassis? Also pos terminal to block? All should be the same 12.xx volts not running, or same 14.xx volts running.

HiPerf_Chevyman

Could be anything already mentioned or something else - as usual, hard to troubleshoot online without actually being there, can only make educated guesses (esp with 'custom' wiring

^^^^^ That right there cant get be anymore true.

Johnnygeek

buy fire extinguisher ASAP
these cars are known to burst into flames!!

ok lots of wires going to starter that run across top of motor
also large bundle of wires together across back of motor
motor gets hot things melt and then here comes the water
instant short... can be small
gona need to disconnect and reroute/replace anything that looks like a bad wire.

With positive batt term connected and neg term disconnected,
take a long test light one that can reach from battery negitive post to fuse panel
touch each side where fuse connects... one will be power side other will be load side
power side should light test light, load side should not.
also when on load side activate switches (brakes,dimmer,turns,lights,windows,mirrors,defrost fan,wippers, ect...) if a switch is bad or the relay, it might back fead the fuse pannel when switched this will light the test light when testing on the load side.

wipper switch can stick on and with bad wiper motor will kill batt fast
relay for defrost fan can stick on.

3 wire O2 sensor?

RoRoYoBoat123

Sorry everyone, i miss telled when i said 6 hours idle, i meant when left to sit 6 hours doing nothing, not running, not doing anything sorry :/ im not that crazy xD

RoRoYoBoat123

by cut it off i just meant i put tape around it to make sure it isnt touching anything

waltersb

Then you have something actively drawing power right? Just disconnect as much as you can and add 1 thing back at a time. You definately need a meter, a test light bulb just isn't going to cut it.

nhgator

FWIW,I had a 79 bird,was an electrical nightmare,had a drain I couldn't find for the longest time,as my only wheels taking it to far apart wasn't an option,I installed a power cut-off switch at the pos. terminal as a temporary hold,just had to pop the hood each morning and evening to kill the power.

Finally picked up another car to get around and spent some time and found several shorts in the rear harness,replaced it and was good for as long after as I had it.

HiPerf_Chevyman

Did you unhook the battery last nite? and off topic question (what state are you in?)

RoRoYoBoat123

State? umm idk, i like that temporary fix idea, I will probally do that until i can completely fix it! Ill work on it tuesday and get back with everyone! Thank you

HiPerf_Chevyman

yea about that temp. fix. It could damage the alt with that load drawing............... but thats all up to you... You reside in the 50 states?

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

We have 50, pick one and reveal your answer. To be serious, it would help if your profile listed what State you live in, then he wouldn't have needed to ask the question. Unless of course you are in witness protection.

Lon