HowardC

I've got a 92 RS.

Ok so my car has been neglected the past few years and I'm trying to fix all of the little things before I prep it for a new paint job.

I've got to take the door panels off anyway (the power lock mechanism is a little gummed up) so I thought I might as well install a keyless entry system while I am at it. There are a ton of minor things that need replaced on my car and I'm on a budget, so I would like to install the cheapest keyless entry system I can get without it being utter crap.

I saw these on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Remote-C...item231d3d0153

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Universa...item1e68dea6d1

Yeah they are kind of cruddy but look how cheap they are! Anybody had any luck with these? Where my car is a little older it isn't going to remote start anyway (needs a little gas on a cold start) so a simple lock/unlock + hatch is fine. I've got to admit controlling the windows and stuff would be cool though.

Also from what I understand I'll need a relay for the hatch, but even adding in the cost of a relay these seem to be about 20-40 bucks cheaper than the average unit.


My other question is in regards to the wiring. I'm thinking of mounting it inside the center console as there is tons of room there and it would be easy to acess if I have trouble. So I was wondering... can I use the memory wire for the radio instead of wiring directly to the battery. Likewise, can I use the radio ground to ground the unit?


Also where is the best place to tie-in? I'll have the door panels off, so I can do it there, but if it's easier to do it at the harness that would work as well. Also I don't know where the relay for the hatch is. I've read the retrofit diagram on this site but it isn't terribly specific in terms of location.

I would appreciate any help you guys can give me, thanks.

NINÅ

HowardC

Thanks a ton! That's what I wanted to know.

I'm putting in a factory connector for my radio to repair the current hack job on it. I'll go ahead and tie in some extra connectors for power/ground while I'm at it.

I've noticed that there is a ton of written info on the site in terms of the keyless entry/remote start stuff but no visual guide. I'll go ahead and snap a few pics while I'm doing the install and throw it up on the site when I'm done.

I'll also let you guys know how the chineese knock-off units work. I figure even if it's junk I can use the electronics for some other project and I'm only out around 17 bucks. I kind of like them because you can customize the look to a certain extent. There are about 20-30 different key fobs that are included with these units, you just pick the design you like the most.

HowardC

Well my kit finally arrived today.

It came in one of those famous Chinese sandwich bags. I don't think there is anything to hurt though.

The "instructions" are laugable. It is a single printed page, one half dedicated to operation details (how to work the remote) and a few wiring diagrams on the other side.

The door locks, at least, look fairly straight forward.... there is a diagram for negative locking so it should be easy to wire up.

The trunk on the other hand is a bit more cryptic. It has a single wire that says "to trunk (-)" which is straight forward enough but that assumes that all trunk wiring is the same. Judging by the voltage/amperage listings on the various outputs the trunk is supposed to go to a relay, which is fine because that's what I had expected.

Also the "engrish" is getting in the way a little. There's one wire that is supposed to go to the "direction light" which I'm guessing is supposed to be the headlights or brake lights, but sounds like the turn signal lights by the way it's worded.

Anyway, the wires are a bit shorter than I expected (just under 3 feet) so I'll have to get some supplies before I start. As promised I'll visually document the process once I get started.

HowardC

Ok I finally had time to install it today. I hooked up everything but the signal light because I haven't decided what or if I want to hook it up to.

I took pics of every step of the process, so I'll make a little guide and post it sometime this coming week.

There are plenty of great wiring diagrams here on the site, but for me at least it's a lot easier to look at a picture of what you are supposed to hook it up to.

ZZ3 Z28

Two years after I bought my '86 I installed a GM Goodwrench Keyless Entry System, 1#999558 Gr.2.187 that cost me all of $104.00. You know it still works. Still opens the doors and pops the hatch like the very first day. Even have the box and all the paperwork. Hope yours lasts as long.



.

LilSki

iTrader: (1)

I followed this thread below and installed a unit out of a 95 camaro I got off ebay for $25 along with a keyfob for a 95 firebird so it has the Pontiac symbol on it for $20. So for $45 I got a factory unit and it works great. Even keeps the interior light on until I turn the key on when I unlock the doors.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ess-entry.html

HowardC

Only time will tell but thus far I'm pretty pleased with it.

You never know when you order something directly from China so as soon as I got it I opened up the housing to see what was inside. The whole system except for the trunk release is passive... everything runs through micro-relays. The amperage rating of the relays is about 10 times what would run through it and the whole system is fused both with a bus fuse and internal micro-fuses at each relay so it should be fine. They just happen to be relays that I order all the time for my electronics projects so I know they are good. I've got house current running through some of those babies.

The trunk signal is -12v at 500ma... in other words you use the car's existing relay, which is nice.

I mounted it under the instrument cluster and got my power and everything from the door lock relays on the car. So really the only chore was running a single wire for the trunk release through the console, but considering how open that thing is it was a breeze.

$104 isn't bad at all, but I think with connectors and everything I've got 20$ in mine. I might need a relay if I hook up the signal wire so you can add another 3-5 bucks to that. So even if the thing doesn't last forever I don't feel like it's enough for me to fret over if it would go bad.

HowardC

I actually used that thread a lot to double-check my wiring. It was very helpful. Some of the info on it is exclusive to a 93+ retrofit though, which is why I wanted to do another guide.

Firechicken86

iTrader: (1)

I just bought the same kit and am a little stumped at how to wire it up using the terrible diagram provided with it, do you still have those pictures by any chance? thanks!

HowardC

Man I'm sorry, I completely forgot about this thread (didn't seem to be any interest). I checked my camera and my pictures folder but couldn't find the ones you needed.

If you post the diagram I might be able to figure it out for you but remember it's been a full year since I installed it. I will say that it looks a lot harder to wire up than it actually is.

Other than wedging my fat butt into that kick panel area I didn't have any issues.

It's still working just fine a year later btw. There's no noticeable power drain or anything like that.

Firechicken86

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply! I finally managed to get it working, just wasn't matching up the wires to the correct ones on the relay. Do you remember what you hooked to the trunk wire up to to get the wireless trunk open to work?

HowardC

I believe I ran a ground wire and the trunk wire all the way through the center console to the physical switch. You are supposed to use a relay for safety but considering these fobs require to unlock the doors and continue to hold the button, I wasn't worried about it.

It's really hard to find, but there IS a relay in the center console in the back towards the ash tray.

Definitely research the polarity of the switch before you do this.... this is the only tricky part.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I tried to go on the cheaper side with the keyless entry. I wound up wasting $70. So then I wired in a 2001 firebird bcm. It works great and I highly recommend it over an aftermarket keyless entry unit because you get retained accessory power. Interior light control and the option of an alarm, not to mention a built in relay for door locks which is ten times better than ours.

IROCU2

Alex where did you get the 2001 Firebird BCM from? How did you wire it up? Do you have pictures.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I got the bcm from a salvage yard. I used a fiero guide for a baseline from which to work. I will post the link and pics/schematics when I get home.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

http://www.fieros.de/en/articles/BCM.html
Rather than reposting everything I have a link to a thread I started about a swap of interior parts, basically 2 sets of door panels - (my original and ones that I modded and 2 center consoles - (my original and a 4th gen one) and before you ask why, its a really long story full of many frustrations. Well anyway, step one of this was fixing the mess considered to be wiring and the bcm info is included in there. If you still have questions I'll be more than happy to answer. The link to my thread is:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...-so-speak.html