BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

Im not sure what is going on with this thing, its an Eqqus gauge I bought from checker after my factory gauge crapped out on me, i pulled my cluster, cut the tan signal wire and ran it to the signal on the new gauge, ran another wire to power and then grounded the third, i grounded it on the speaker chasis so im not sure if thats got something to do with it....anyway heres a link to the vid on youtube, its a bit easier to see than explain, the gauge reads about 3/4 sitting and then when you push the gas it goes up to full with the rpm

TIA!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3JtRpQXFPc
*NOTE* at the 13 sec mark in the vid i just pushed the gas a little bit, not enough to hear on the vid but it raised the rpm by about 200, so its doing it under all conditions

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

I've never seen 1 float to the " F " before,
only to the " E " as the RPMs went up, then
go to correct level as RPMs settled. It would
do so because the fuel level would drop as
RPMs went up.

Are you sure the wires are hooked up correctly??

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely positive, I grounded the one, tapped the tan signal wire according to thewiring diarams I have, and ran the last wire to a positive source, do you think grounding on the speakerchasis might have something to do with it? I know wires with electricity passing thru create a magnetic field and the speaker has a huge magnet so..... maybe?

Maeryk

I'd run a set of test wires, not near anything, and see if you get the same result. You may be inducing a field into the wire somewhere?

ground the test set to the battery or something. See if that makes a difference.

avilla20

yes it can be from the ground, try a better ground first. also if you routed it to close to the tack at the back of the cluster the tan wire can be picking up the magnetic field generated from the tack and the voltage spike created by the collapse of that field.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

Okay ill try that in the morning, I wanted to make sure I wasn't crazy but I've run into field issues before, iill run the pos straight off the fuse box and run a ground to the door light switch and see if it helps, is there anything on the sending unit end that could cause this? I can't think of anything but I wanna pinpoint it to the gauge side

avilla20

was it doing it before the aftermarket gauge? if not then no worries with the sender.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

no it was working like the usual Camaro gauge lol it wouldn't read very well, either full half or 1/4, which i learned to deal with then i started tinkering with LEDs a few years ago and the gauge went out after that, i didnt have a good connection on the PCB and so it pegged out at past full, if i smacked the dash it would read but once i hit a bump it was all over, which is why i went with this gauge, now that i think about it the tan wire running too close to the tach makes sense, i just clipped it off the bulk connector and spliced it to the new wire, but it was still taped together with the cluster of wires so its sitting real close to the tach, while im at it im also gonna move the ground and possibly tap a new power if i need to, its a KO/EO source so ill look for a KO/ER source

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

okay i did a test today, ran a seperate power from the radio slot in the junction block to the gauge, grounded it to the switch for the interior lights on the door, and its STILL dancing like that. Its starting to **** me off does anyone have a better idea? The only other thing i can think of is running a wire directly from the sending unit thru the car and to the gauge but it just doesnt make any sense to me.....

deadbird

I might be a moron but, the fuel gauge wire should be either pink or, purple. IIRC, tan would be for your oil pressure gauge.

Your fuel gauge may just be showing oil pressure. (oil and gas are both 0-90ohm gauges, 0ohm, {short to ground} = Empty or 0psi, 90+ohm = Full or 60+psi)

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

that would definitely explain the movement with the tach.... I want to say you're right but at the same time I'm normally not that retarded... but it makes perfect sense lol ill look at the wiring diagrams again, I pulled them up on mitchell5 and its mislead me in the past lol

Thanks for the tip lol

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

Just an update: pulled up a gauge cluster diagram and confirmed that it is the pink wire, tore the cluster apart a little bit ago and tapped it, ran that to my gauge and its working, got it mounted in the dash pod and it looks great

thanks for everyone helping me

deadbird

But, now you don't know if your oil pressure if full or not
Good to see it was something simple

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

Oh no ive had a mechanical oil pressure gauge for a while now, ive been slowly phasing out the factory cluster as the gauges die, the only ones that work now are the tach and speedo lol the rest are aftermarkt, 3 under the center vents, and now the gas gauge up in its pod on the dash