Fuel level gauge troubles.....
04-16-2010, 11:54 AM
#1
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Car: 83 Trans Am / 96 Jeep XJ
Engine: 355 / 4.0 I6
Transmission: TH350 / Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10-bolt / 4wd
Fuel level gauge troubles.....
When I dropped and replaced my fuel tank, the purple wire on the fuel sender broke off, and I didnt have a way to know how much fuel I had. 2 days ago, I replaced the whole tank, and sender with one from an 87 GTA, and put in an aftermarket fuel level gauge, to replace the old one, the gauge is a 0-90 ohm VDO unit.
Now, the fuel tank has between 5.5 and 6 gallons of gas in it, and the fuel tank is a ~15 gallon tank. The fuel gauge is reads anywhere from between 3/4 and full, to full. When I start the motor, and give it a little throttle, the gauge needle reads full to past full.
I have the gauges sender port hooked up the the PINK wire from the connector on the RIGHT side of the dash, which is a BROWN connector.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
Now, the fuel tank has between 5.5 and 6 gallons of gas in it, and the fuel tank is a ~15 gallon tank. The fuel gauge is reads anywhere from between 3/4 and full, to full. When I start the motor, and give it a little throttle, the gauge needle reads full to past full.
I have the gauges sender port hooked up the the PINK wire from the connector on the RIGHT side of the dash, which is a BROWN connector.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
04-16-2010, 08:16 PM
#2
04-20-2010, 10:16 AM
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Top Fuel (gage)
Because you’re using an aftermarket gage you have an unknown.
When you rev the engine it’s probably causing the alt to increase voltage, affecting the gage, however a well designed gage won’t be affected by voltage fluctuation.
Here’s how to test the gage.
Remove the sender wire going to the gage.
Tape the removed sender wire so it can’t short.
Use a potentiometer with a value of 90Ω or the closest you can find.
Connect one end the potentiometer to the gage from the location you removed the sender.
Connect the wiper of the potentiometer to ground.
Turn the key to RUN.
Slowly adjust the potentiometer from 0Ω to 90Ω.
If the gage is bad it will exhibit the problem you have.
If the gage is good it will display a smooth transition from one end of it’s range to the other.
Therefore the problem is with the sender or wiring going to it.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
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I Didn’t Wreck, The Track Moved
.
When you rev the engine it’s probably causing the alt to increase voltage, affecting the gage, however a well designed gage won’t be affected by voltage fluctuation.
Here’s how to test the gage.
Remove the sender wire going to the gage.
Tape the removed sender wire so it can’t short.
Use a potentiometer with a value of 90Ω or the closest you can find.
Connect one end the potentiometer to the gage from the location you removed the sender.
Connect the wiper of the potentiometer to ground.
Turn the key to RUN.
Slowly adjust the potentiometer from 0Ω to 90Ω.
If the gage is bad it will exhibit the problem you have.
If the gage is good it will display a smooth transition from one end of it’s range to the other.
Therefore the problem is with the sender or wiring going to it.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
I Didn’t Wreck, The Track Moved
.
05-02-2010, 07:39 PM
#4
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Car: 83 Trans Am / 96 Jeep XJ
Engine: 355 / 4.0 I6
Transmission: TH350 / Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10-bolt / 4wd
Re: Top Fuel (gage)
Thanks for the tips.
The gauge is brand new, I dont suspect it to be the problem.
I just came back from the garage and I read the ohms from the sender wire on the gauge, to the ground and it read ~110ohms.
I then pulled the back carpet up enough to get to the wires that come from the tank, and took the ohms from that, and got the same ~110ohm reading.
Now I am pretty mad because I JUST put that sender in the tank!
On a side note-
I dont have a grounding strap coming from the passengers side head to the firewall. Could this be causing a problem? I never added one after my engine swap.
Thanks.
The gauge is brand new, I dont suspect it to be the problem.
I just came back from the garage and I read the ohms from the sender wire on the gauge, to the ground and it read ~110ohms.
I then pulled the back carpet up enough to get to the wires that come from the tank, and took the ohms from that, and got the same ~110ohm reading.
Now I am pretty mad because I JUST put that sender in the tank!
On a side note-
I dont have a grounding strap coming from the passengers side head to the firewall. Could this be causing a problem? I never added one after my engine swap.
Thanks.
05-03-2010, 09:23 AM
#5
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Top Fuel (gage)
Due to fact the new sender is 110Ω instead of 90Ω, that will cause the gage to read high.
The lack of a ground strap won’t make a difference as long as the gage and sender are grounded, and it sounds like the are.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
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How bout those too scared to drive without headlights in the daytime
and the ones that need headlights for a little rain
.
The lack of a ground strap won’t make a difference as long as the gage and sender are grounded, and it sounds like the are.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
How bout those too scared to drive without headlights in the daytime
and the ones that need headlights for a little rain.
05-03-2010, 12:15 PM
#6
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Car: 83 Trans Am / 96 Jeep XJ
Engine: 355 / 4.0 I6
Transmission: TH350 / Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10-bolt / 4wd
Re: Top Fuel (gage)
Something I am wondering...
Maybe the send I have was made for different ohms, and perhaps 110 is low, and if I was to put more fuel in the tank it would rise? I just dont want to drop the tank for the 5th time.
Maybe the send I have was made for different ohms, and perhaps 110 is low, and if I was to put more fuel in the tank it would rise? I just dont want to drop the tank for the 5th time.
05-03-2010, 01:44 PM
#7
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Top Fuel (gage)
If you filled the tank the sender will rise and be positioned to 110Ω.
That will peg the gage, but won’t cause harm.
If you don’t want to drop the tank you just have to get used to the gage displaying a higher than actual level.
You can start with an empty tank, add 1/4 (3 7/8 gallons) tank at a time, and note where it is on the gage.
The most important reading will be 1/4 tank so you know when to bring it in.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
How bout those too scared to drive without headlights in the daytime and the ones that need headlights for a little rain
.
That will peg the gage, but won’t cause harm.
If you don’t want to drop the tank you just have to get used to the gage displaying a higher than actual level.
You can start with an empty tank, add 1/4 (3 7/8 gallons) tank at a time, and note where it is on the gage.
The most important reading will be 1/4 tank so you know when to bring it in.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
How bout those too scared to drive without headlights in the daytime
and the ones that need headlights for a little rain.
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05-03-2010, 02:52 PM
#8
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Car: 83 Trans Am / 96 Jeep XJ
Engine: 355 / 4.0 I6
Transmission: TH350 / Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10-bolt / 4wd
Re: Top Fuel (gage)
Yeah that was what I was planning on doing, because I really hate dropping it, and I have done it 4 times, haha.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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