joef2002

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys - I've searched the forums and though this question has been asked, I haven't been able to find a simple yet detailed enough answer. Got an 88 GTA (no VATS) to which I'd like to create two things: a simple kill switch and a push button starter (both wil be simple buttons I'll get at an autostore). Can anyone give me some simple step-by-step instructions on how to do something like this? (i.e. tell me how to wire it up SAFELY, tell me if relays are necessary, tell me where the wires would be located, etc.).

You're help is greatly appreciated. THANK YOU!

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

do a search, its been done...

Jeromey Cummins

iTrader: (5)

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

The steering wheel lock is the "hardest" part, in a pre-VATS car.

Other than that, it is just a matter of wiring & switches.

Jeromey Cummins

iTrader: (5)

I just took the rods out, due to the fact of shaving the key-hole off of the column, so there is no wheel lock.... LOL!

Jeromey Cummins

iTrader: (5)

Why do people even bother posting if there not going to post anything thats going to help. "Do a search, its already been done". C'mon, stop trying to flex your muscels, and help, or dont post nothing at all.

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

Because it has been done and it sucks to use up forum bandwidth over redundant topics. It seems that every month, this question is asked. Along with ebay turbo kits and "will 4th gen seats fit in my 3rd gen"... If people would just search "push button starter", many threads WILL come up...

joef2002

iTrader: (5)

Thanks guys. Jer - I'll give your suggestion a try and will let you know how it goes.

HCR - don't look at me as being lazy or not willing to search. I did search...plenty of times...yet I couldn't find a simplistic answer like the one Jer just provided. I'm not trying to eat up "forum bandwidth" - I'm just seeking basic advice that I otherwise could'n't find on my own.

Jeromey Cummins

iTrader: (5)

HCR, i see your point, and i wont protest that, but my queston was, did it really trully bother you enough were you felt obligated to go out of your way to type a negative paragraph (And all the while, thats just YOUR opinion). Would it not have been easier ( and much less Rude of you ) to just simply not respond at all. We can see clearly that he is a Junior Member, so maybe he doesnt know his way around the Forum as well as you do.So he should be stricken for it? C'mon. Im really hoping that your not one of those guys that just sits on these forums all day, looking through all the postings just do belittle somebody so you can finaly get that feeling of superiority for once in your life. Just thinking out loud. Good Day

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Telling people to SEARCH is not belittling. It is educating them, that they can & should try to find answers for themselves. Rather than sitting back & asking to have things handed to them.

I had a moron ask me where to find Ground Control Weight Jacks, just last week! Well DUH!!! On the Ground Control website!! See how annoying the lack of a person's ability to search for answers themselves is? Google searches are no different than TGO searches. A search is a search.

I even had a question about my wheels just last night. Never mind that the info is in my sig & links to pics of them.....That is a simple lack of the ability to look & reading.

I support HCR 100% in his reference to SEARCH. I to get tired of reading the same questions weekly sometimes) because the person obviously makes no attempt to find the answer on their own.

I've seen questions...I already know the answer is here, but I search to see just how easy it comes up. Low & behold, I find it in my first search & within the top 10 results. So I say too, instead of giving the person the answer. Yes, it kinda requires more work on my end, but in the future, they'll help themselves, instead of asking every piddly question they have.

I'd rather put a little extra effort into educating a person as to how to help themselves once, rather than do their legwork for them over & over & over.

TGO has existed for over 10 years. Even the 1999 Join Dates aren't 100% correct, like in my case, since the entire system got Reset in '99. Not many questions left to ask, other than new technologies & developments.

joef2002

iTrader: (5)

OK guys OK. That's enough already. Opinions made and points taken. This is taking up more 'site bandwidth' than my original question. Let's keep the thread to it's purpose - PUSH BUTTON STARTER. Thanks.

Jeromey Cummins

iTrader: (5)

By all means, i agree with educating readers, but its the manor in which you present it in. Very cocky, and rude! This forum is for people to share a common love for the same thing. A passion, a hobbie. Were all one big family here. If one of my family members were calling others "Moron", and such, and had an attitude like......... well....... YOU!, I dont really think they'd be over for some pumpkin pie next christmas if ya know what im sayin. Look..... just let the Administrator|Webmasters do there part, and well do ours. Sit back, relax, and if you dont llike something you come across, click that little left mouse button on something else, because somebody else may find it informative.

Jeromey Cummins

iTrader: (5)

In all seriousness though..... Love the car!

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

I'm sorry if I came off as rude, that was not my intention. Like Stephen said, if people learned to use the search features, they can find anything. I understand some newer members aren't all that familiar with the site, I was there too at one point, but this particular subject has been covered many times. I have a push button starter too, but mines on a key fob, as opposed to the actual car. Also, if you search for topics you can get results IMMEDIATELY as opposed to waiting a day or 2 for people to respond. Its not bandwidth usage that gets to me as it is that everytime a new topic is brought up in a forum, older topics get pushed down the list and eventually to other pages. Which is sad if there are actual useful topics from people with original problems or ideas that wont get a chance...

P.S. Jeromy Cummins (Post #3) is probably one of the better and thorough posts concerning pushbutton start, maybe future users can search and find this thread for info!

jjskibbs

alos, FYI guys.... i am a junior member also, and i search A LOT on this site. sometimes it is hard and extremely time consuming to find a direct answer to my questions. i eventually will get there but sometimes i can't spend an hour searching through "related" topics.
ALSO there are hundreds of times finding posts like these and then bitching back and forth make it HARDER and MORE time consuming to search. so please take all this into consideration when us learners ask for help from the wiser.
thanks.

i am here to learn and be able to work on my car and i'm happy to help otheres with what i have found when i can.

and jsut to say... i've been searching for 20minutes now jsut to find the right amp rating for a push button starter!!!!!!!! still looking...

NINÅ

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Use a relay with the push button so you dont have to worry about excess current across the switch

jjskibbs

well the wire from my ignition to the starter is crap - it's been hacked into and doesn't always send voltage to the starter. so i am wiring in a push button off and ignition source to the starter solenoid. ive seen a painless wiring switch which is rated at 35amps. i jsut don't know what the starter will pull. i also have a new tuff stuff mini starter which they say is half the amps as factory but they don't list what the amperage is. i guess i could run any switch with a relay - but then what amperage rating on the relay?

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

You are not putting starter motor amps through switch ; only solenoid operating amp so you don't need a relay.
The factory only used a relay when VATS was installed; as a starter "interrupt device" , not as a means of reducing current load.
Prior to VATS the wire went direct from ign to solenoid ( through inhibitor switch )

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The relay is to keep the high current out of the momentary switch because he was having trouble finding ones with a high enough rating

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Push-...item439e4052b7

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HD-Pu...item45ede4e074

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Longa...Q5fCarQ5fParts

¡MR.AWESOME!

iTrader: (2)

The way I did it is to put a relay on each of the wires coming out of the column. So a relay on the "Run" wires, a relay on the "ACC" wires and a relay on the Starter wire. Brown wire is the ACC. Orange is the Run. Pink is the Run/Bulb Test/Start. Yellow is the one that goes to the starter solenoid. I wired the Run, Run/BulbTest/Start and ACC relays together so they would turn on when I flipped the "ACC" switch. It's the equivalent to having the key in the "Run" position. Once those relays are on, you can start the starter. I too was worried about amperage, but using relays rated at 40A in this manner turned out to work just fine. So far that is. I take no responsibility in things that are done in response to my words. Don't forget you need to bypass the VATS with a resistor as well.

Actually, I didn't do all this exactly as I said. I am making a fancy-dan Pushbutton Starter, and so I wired the relays up like I said but they are controlled by the PButton Starter. But I hate hi-jacking, so that's enough of that.

jjskibbs

ok thanks for the replys --- update - i fixed it. here's the deal for anyone else with my interesting ordeal.

first off i decided if i was going to run a new wire anyways i may as well fix the factory wiring or at least find the problem. i may still wire in a switch later for fun .

my starter would click most of the time (which is why i replaced the starter originally). the new starter worked good for awhile and then started the clicking again... (i now know it worked because i was moving the wires around when replaceing starter). i checked voltage at the ignition switch power, yellow out of ign sw, at starter relay, at neutral switch.
i noticed a voltage drop the farther i went toward the starter. i unplugged the neutral switch and jumpered the green/blk and purple - still clicking. so my neutral switch is not it. i ran a test wire from my remote starter solenoid to the green blk at the neutral switch connector and there it is it starts!!!! so my problem is a bad wire/connection on the purple between the neutral switch and the starter solenoid. the starter was simply not getting enough juice to crank. i was only getting 7.5volts at the lowest point. it was enough to attempt to engage (click click) but not start.

FIX - spliced purple wire at a known good point (which was easiest in the wire harness for the passenger side injectors) to the starter solenoid. i don't like having splices too much but it worked good and kept everything factory and wasn't that difficult at all.

i will say i am now a near expert on the starting system wiring!!!! haha.

thanks all.

Leo101010101

can anyone tell me where the actual VATS module is located in my 89 camaro rs? ive tried a million things the get this car to start but it wont bc the injectors wont fire. got it down to the VATS module not sending an enable fuel signal to the computer and i need to replace the module so help would be great thank you. i cant just do a simple bypass with a resistor bc the module itself is the problem

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Inside the dash, pass side near the ECM

Beware the VATS module is matched to the key pellet resistance