New wiring from alt to battery.
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Car: 88 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
New wiring from alt to battery.
Well, I upgraded to a 140 amp alt, and the stock wiring is basically useless.
I want to get rid of the stock 8/10 gauge alt/battery power wire, and install a new 4 gauge wire, along with a 150 amp ANL fuse and fuse holder.
Im also going to upgrade the dinky battery ground to chassis wire thats like 4 inches long, it's tiny, also to 4 gauge.
The ground from battery to engine block is 4 gauge, so i might leave that, also my battery wire to starter is 4 gauge, so everything will be 4 gauge.
First of all, I'm no expert so I want to know if this will work fine, also! what should I do with the stock 8/10 gauge wire? should i leave it connected along with the new one? the new one is going to a terminal on the top of the battery, as I have top and side posts.
Old wire runs to a distribution block and has a fusible link, the wire that runs to that distribution block from the battery is also tiny, like 12 gauge maybe smaller, same size as the battery and chassis ground, not sure if these wires are aftermarket.
Any input is appreciated, thank you.
I want to get rid of the stock 8/10 gauge alt/battery power wire, and install a new 4 gauge wire, along with a 150 amp ANL fuse and fuse holder.
Im also going to upgrade the dinky battery ground to chassis wire thats like 4 inches long, it's tiny, also to 4 gauge.
The ground from battery to engine block is 4 gauge, so i might leave that, also my battery wire to starter is 4 gauge, so everything will be 4 gauge.
First of all, I'm no expert so I want to know if this will work fine, also! what should I do with the stock 8/10 gauge wire? should i leave it connected along with the new one? the new one is going to a terminal on the top of the battery, as I have top and side posts.
Old wire runs to a distribution block and has a fusible link, the wire that runs to that distribution block from the battery is also tiny, like 12 gauge maybe smaller, same size as the battery and chassis ground, not sure if these wires are aftermarket.
Any input is appreciated, thank you.
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 75
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Car: 88 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: New wiring from alt to battery.
Well, I'm done, just ended up reading a lot of forum posts about it.
It does give a decent improvement.
I jdid the following:
4 Gauge AWG Power Wire from alternator to + battery terminal with a ANL fuse holder and 150 amp fuse, use the fuse towards the battery end of the wire.
4 Gauge AWG Ground Wire from - battery terminal to chassis, I used the stock location.
4 Gauge Ground Wire from ALT bracket to chassis, also used the stock location on the frame, I did clean up the ground area with 40 grit sand paper to reveal more metal.
Tips:
Top and side post battery is recommended, for ones with those, just get some top side terminals, ones with side terminals only, can get a side post extender.
Leave the stock wiring, just add onto it, as others say, current takes the path of least resistance.
I used basic 4 gauge ring terminals with insulators, better found online, same goes for the fuse and fuse holder, most local audio shops didn't have much, you can however easily find the wire you need at local audio shops, it's sold by the ft.
Also, wire looms I do recommend by isn't 100% necessary, just around the hotter parts the wire touches, electrical tape should work for that too.
Stock 4 gauge insulation is usually good for up to 140 degrees.
It does give a decent improvement.
I jdid the following:
4 Gauge AWG Power Wire from alternator to + battery terminal with a ANL fuse holder and 150 amp fuse, use the fuse towards the battery end of the wire.
4 Gauge AWG Ground Wire from - battery terminal to chassis, I used the stock location.
4 Gauge Ground Wire from ALT bracket to chassis, also used the stock location on the frame, I did clean up the ground area with 40 grit sand paper to reveal more metal.
Tips:
Top and side post battery is recommended, for ones with those, just get some top side terminals, ones with side terminals only, can get a side post extender.
Leave the stock wiring, just add onto it, as others say, current takes the path of least resistance.
I used basic 4 gauge ring terminals with insulators, better found online, same goes for the fuse and fuse holder, most local audio shops didn't have much, you can however easily find the wire you need at local audio shops, it's sold by the ft.
Also, wire looms I do recommend by isn't 100% necessary, just around the hotter parts the wire touches, electrical tape should work for that too.
Stock 4 gauge insulation is usually good for up to 140 degrees.
Last edited by MiScHiEf; 06-03-2009 at 12:20 AM.
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