So I have been having major problems with my starter. I have a 400 SBC and a CSR starter. Every time i get the thing shimmed right it will start perfect the first 3 or 4 times then the main starter bolt will loosen a quarter inch. I have put lock washers on it and no luck. If you have any other ideas of what i could do it would help alot.

I remember reading an old thread about there being a problem with the blocks from the 70s that cause the starter problems , but I cant seem to find the thread. On the thread it had a part number on it for the part to fix this problem. If you know what the part number is or where the thread is that would help greatly.

 

The part number you speak of won't help; it's the Lester # for a replacement OEM starter.

There's a clue buried in there somewhere.

There's 2 "main starter bolts", not just one. Put the other bolt in, it'll probably be fine.

 

as you know the 400 is a staggered bolt pattern but the CSR changes it with an adapter plate to make it a regular. I have all the bolts in the car and the longest one keeps on dropping I have re-threaded it and I am still having the same problem.

I was asking for the part number so I could buy one because this one has been giving me nothing but problems.

 

Does any one know the part number for the stock type starter for a 400 csb that is hooked up to a 5 speed?

 

The Lester # for the starter that I have posted in order to fix The Problem wherein the starter bolt holes are too far from the crank, is 4347. But that won't do you too much good, I'm afraid. That starter is for 14" flywheels, which isn't what you've got, if it fits inside a stock bell housing for one of these cars.

There IS NO "stock type" starter for a 400 that works with a T-5. As I've posted many times before, the small 12.8" flywheel didn't exist during the years of 400 production, until the VERY END of its run; so the only 400s that even MIGHT have that bolt pattern, are from about 78 up. Nearly all 400s have to have the late-model inner bolt hole added, in order to use the 12.8" flywheel.

Keeping in mind that using the smaller flywheel means that the guts of the starter have to be that much closer to the crank in order to engage the ring gear, it's pretty easy to see that the starter guts will RUN INTO a bolt that's in the inner hole, before it can get close enough to the crank to work. So unless you drill the additional bolt hole in the block, which is of course a "special" sort of hole, you can only put ONE bolt in. Which would certainly help explain why it doesn't work.

The CSR starter should have 2 bolts in it, straight across, both the same length IIRC. I notice you dodged the issue of exactly how many bolts there are in the starter. How many bolts are ACTUALLY IN THERE holding your starter on?

 

It has the 2 straight acrossed holding in the starter itself and the one allen style bolt that holds in the mounting plate.

 

Not sure what that is, all I know of besides the ones in the noepiece, is a little brace that goes on the rear; but if you have 2 of them going through the nosepiece, and a stock bell housing for one of these cars with a flywheel in it, then your block has the extra hole drilled. Which is good. Except that:

The 4347 will not work for you, because it fits the 14" flywheel, but you have the 12.8" one. So that option is N/A.

I know that some of the mini-starters have their own bolts; and some use stock bolts. Not sure about the CSR. What bolts are in it? Are they "real" starter bolts, or did they come with the starter, or what?

 

The mounting plate is the adapter that converts the staggard bolt pattern to the standard line pattern. I was using the CSR starter bolts but they bent so I bought some "REAL" Chevy starter bolts and I am still having the same problem, but I am gonna call CSR to see if there is a difference between the two.

 

So your block DOESN'T have the late model hole then.

That's the root cause of the problem. No starter in the world will fix that.

Take the block to the machine shop before you install it in the car, and have them drill the "special" hole for you. Much better chance of getting it right than trying to do that laying up under the car with the chips dropping in your face.

Here's a pic somebody posted a long time ago, that I ganked a copy of, that shows the "missing" hole. Well, actually, the hole is IN THERE somewhere; you just gotta get all that metal out of the way to find it.

 

Well the motor is in the car. So if I drill that extra hole will that cure that bolt from coming loose and bending?

 

It works fine on factory motors, and on 400s (such as mine) and 350s that have had the hole drilled WITH SUFFICIENT PRECISION by someone else. So I'd expect it to take caer of yours as well. Problem of course is, attaining the necessary precison. You've got one shot, and if you goof, you scrap the block for this purpose.

I sure as hell wouldn't do it with the motor in the car. Oh wait..... I didn't... I checked mine before I put it in, discovered I had to do something if I wanted to bolt up a starter, and took care of it. But, it's only an afternoon's work to R&R the motor as we all know, not any kind of an "ordeal" at all; so I wouldn't see it as being some kind of a terminal issue to just do it right and minimize the risk of further trouble. That's what I'd recommend. You'll spend longer trying to somehow UNDO the damage of a failed attempt, than the time it would have taken to do it the right way in the first place.

 

Early 400 blocks are very fickle on starter alignment/shimming. Both my '71 and '72 blocks require shimming.

In addition to the main bolt thread issue mentioned above, run an endbrace. Many believe it to be a trivial piece, but it is the source of much bane with Chevy starters. I have seen both starter noses and blocks broken due to the lack of an endbrace.

 

What do you mean by an endbrace?

 

The endbrace that bolts ties the back of the starter motor to the block.

 

I found out tonight that I have the exact same problem.

I am in the process of doing a search to find a solution for it.


I have a 400 with staggered starter bolt holes.

I also have a mini type starter with staggered bolt holes.

I have a 700R4. I looked at my 305 starter and the "mini starter" that I have, which I think is some sort of factory piece, and can see how much further away the bendix is.



When I used it before(last time the engine was together)it would start fine for 3-4 times then work loose. I have both starter bolts in. I question the quality of the threads in the block though. I have thought about heli coiling them.

I wish I would have looked into this more before I put the damn engine in the car.

So can I use the mini type starter I have? Why does it keep coming loose? I will re read this thread and others.

Thanks.

Jason

 

Ya i am having the same problem still. I also believe that the threads in the block might be the problem so if i cant get it to work i am for sure gonna get the threads heli coiled. I have not been able to mess with it for a while becuase of school and work. i have the trans out to try and see what is going on when i try to start it so i will keep you updated.