Alternator Field (Signal) Wire Location
#1
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Car: 83 Camaro
Engine: LT1 SD Mode 30lb/hr
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Alternator Field (Signal) Wire Location
I just have a question about the location of the field wire on an alternator.
I have installed a LT1 into a '84 Camaro that originally came with the LC1 V6. The wiring harness does not have a field wire, I only have the idiot light wire coming from the fire wall. I am running the accessories from a Corvette and have a CS144 that will be installed. I have read every thing I can find about installing alternators in general, so on to my question.
From what I have read it is ok to connect the field wire to the Batt lug on the back of the alternator, but would I get better performance if I connected the field wire to the location shown in the manual for V8 cars (on the main power cable down stream of the battery and fuse links).
I have installed a LT1 into a '84 Camaro that originally came with the LC1 V6. The wiring harness does not have a field wire, I only have the idiot light wire coming from the fire wall. I am running the accessories from a Corvette and have a CS144 that will be installed. I have read every thing I can find about installing alternators in general, so on to my question.
From what I have read it is ok to connect the field wire to the Batt lug on the back of the alternator, but would I get better performance if I connected the field wire to the location shown in the manual for V8 cars (on the main power cable down stream of the battery and fuse links).
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Engine: '85 Monte SS L69 305
Transmission: TH 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 3.23
The field wire may be the one sensing/regulating the charging voltage. If the wiring is good and adequate then you'll get no improvement, but if the wiring gives you a voltage drop then connecting the field wire downstream will compensate for that drop and give a correct voltage at the battery.
#3
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Car: 83 Camaro
Engine: LT1 SD Mode 30lb/hr
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
My thoughts exactly. I think for the time being I am going to connect sensing wire to the back of the alt. I'll break out my amp meter and measure the current and then turn on some accessories to see what will happen. If the amperage doesn't change then I will connect the sensing wire as shown for the V8 cars and repeat the experiment.
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Stock
While we're talking about this...Im having a problem...
We just swapped 305 -> 350 in my 91 z28, and upon putting everything back together again, we CANNOT find the wire that would go to the lug on the back of the alternator...
Its either hiding, or simply doesnt exist, and we cant remember if it was there to start with.
It was a factory 305, with no modifications that I am aware of.
I do have an induction meter that I use to trace network cables...that we might be able to use to trace it down, if it hiding somewhere...might that help?
Or would it be easier to just make a new one?
If I were to try to track this wire from its OTHER end (not the alternator end) where does it go fromt he alternator?
We just swapped 305 -> 350 in my 91 z28, and upon putting everything back together again, we CANNOT find the wire that would go to the lug on the back of the alternator...
Its either hiding, or simply doesnt exist, and we cant remember if it was there to start with.
It was a factory 305, with no modifications that I am aware of.
I do have an induction meter that I use to trace network cables...that we might be able to use to trace it down, if it hiding somewhere...might that help?
Or would it be easier to just make a new one?
If I were to try to track this wire from its OTHER end (not the alternator end) where does it go fromt he alternator?
#5
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Car: 83 Camaro
Engine: LT1 SD Mode 30lb/hr
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Well every alternator I have ever seen has the lug labled with BATT molded in the casing. Therefore it goes from your alternator to the battery, and it is needed to maintain the battery charge.
Just make a new one, I don't know what size alternator you are using but they recommend an 8 awg wire for a Cs144 (140 amp) and two ring terminal ends and you are set.
Just make a new one, I don't know what size alternator you are using but they recommend an 8 awg wire for a Cs144 (140 amp) and two ring terminal ends and you are set.
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Engine: '85 Monte SS L69 305
Transmission: TH 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I don't think an ammeter is the right tool for the job. Engine running, just connect a voltmeter between the positive posts, alt to bat, and turn on accessories to create a load current. I wouldn't want to have more than 0.1V drop there (as this drop already creates 10 Watts of heat in the wiring at 100 Amps). It's tolerable if it's distributed along a long wire, but if it's mostly confined to a connection then it gets hot..
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Well every alternator I have ever seen has the lug labled with BATT molded in the casing. Therefore it goes from your alternator to the battery, and it is needed to maintain the battery charge.
Just make a new one, I don't know what size alternator you are using but they recommend an 8 awg wire for a Cs144 (140 amp) and two ring terminal ends and you are set.
Just make a new one, I don't know what size alternator you are using but they recommend an 8 awg wire for a Cs144 (140 amp) and two ring terminal ends and you are set.
Isnt it a fused link? Or just run the wire straight to the battery?
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