Best way to test iginition box....
#1
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Location: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
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Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Best way to test iginition box....
I have a mallory HEI dizzy on my new 385.... It fired up fine and all is good. I am adding a Mallory 6-AL box and wired it up exactly as it said but the motor will not fire up now. At the same time, I also changed my plugs for a hotter set as I had evidence that one had fouled after very little time.
Is there a very good way to find out if everything is working the right way with the box?
Do you guys think it could be the new plugs? I didn't gap them, would this be a reason maybe why it is not firing?
Any help would be very appreciated.... I need this thing up and running in about 2 weeks so it can go get painted.... Thanks in advance.
-Dennis
Is there a very good way to find out if everything is working the right way with the box?
Do you guys think it could be the new plugs? I didn't gap them, would this be a reason maybe why it is not firing?
Any help would be very appreciated.... I need this thing up and running in about 2 weeks so it can go get painted.... Thanks in advance.
-Dennis
#3
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Check for spark first to be sure that is the problem. If it is then make sure you wired the box correctly. Most boxes have the Power connection directly to the battery for powering the box then another on/off connection from a dash mounted switch or ignition switch turning the box off and on. Make sure the power source you used for the on/off is on during engine cranking. Some fuse box sources are live with the engine running but dead while cranking. I've seen that mistake made before, I did that myself once too.
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Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
WOW! That might be it! I work for an ignition switch company and and we make a lot of switches like that. It never occured to me that that could be it. I am also using a painless wiring kit to wire the entire car, so that might make the wire I am using die off when cranking. No idea what happens to the wire that I used for the on/off.
I do have the constant hot wired to the master fuse. I will first double check to make sure that there is power when cranking. If not, then that must be it.
Pretty sure most plugs out of the box will not have a gap too big that they will not work. Either way I will also get a gap coin that they sell for a buck just to quickly see if they are close.
I also still have my old plugs that worked so I can toss one of those in there to see if I can see spark.
Thanks so much for all the help. I really think I might hear the beast fire up again tonight!
I do have the constant hot wired to the master fuse. I will first double check to make sure that there is power when cranking. If not, then that must be it.
Pretty sure most plugs out of the box will not have a gap too big that they will not work. Either way I will also get a gap coin that they sell for a buck just to quickly see if they are close.
I also still have my old plugs that worked so I can toss one of those in there to see if I can see spark.
Thanks so much for all the help. I really think I might hear the beast fire up again tonight!
#6
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Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
HOLLY SHTT!! That was it!. Damn the car has no timing set yet or had its valve lash set but man it ran smoother that it did before. It quieted down a lot which is def what i am looking for. I am very very exited now that I know it is wired ok.
I did have 2 problems. Not big, but I happened to attach the on/off to a wire that wanted to stay on. So I couldn't turn the car off yesterday. I had to cut the damn wire to the box. But no biggie, I will just not half *** it this time and tap directly into the ignition wire so that I am sure it will die when I take the key out.
Appart from that, the tach didn't move. That could have just been a loose wire though. The box says to use the yellow wire, so I did, but who knows maybe it is acting stange cuz I am not using the cars power to coil cable anymore. Since the box has its own. I guess I can allways just hard wire the tach to the yellow wire of the box.
Either way, not too much to worry about. Looks like she will be ready for her paint in 3 weeks afterall.
I did have 2 problems. Not big, but I happened to attach the on/off to a wire that wanted to stay on. So I couldn't turn the car off yesterday. I had to cut the damn wire to the box. But no biggie, I will just not half *** it this time and tap directly into the ignition wire so that I am sure it will die when I take the key out.
Appart from that, the tach didn't move. That could have just been a loose wire though. The box says to use the yellow wire, so I did, but who knows maybe it is acting stange cuz I am not using the cars power to coil cable anymore. Since the box has its own. I guess I can allways just hard wire the tach to the yellow wire of the box.
Either way, not too much to worry about. Looks like she will be ready for her paint in 3 weeks afterall.
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