conlinj

iTrader: (3)

I really don't think this is VATS related but I've never had a car with it so I'm not going to rule it out. The car is very unreliable, usually when it gets hot, it won't start. If I jump the terminals to the starter with the key to on the car will start, so I decided to measure volts.

No start case:
Batt - 12.6v
Vats start relay jumper (relay bypassed by previous owner big yellow and big green connected) - 10.3v
S terminal on starter solenoid - 8v
Hot lead on starter - 12.6v

When the car will start:
Batt - 13.0v
Vats start relay jumper - 11v+
S terminal on starter solenoid - 10v+
Hot Lead on starter - 13.0v

Now I assume if its a VATS problem that no signal at all would be sent to the s terminal on the starter solenoid, is this true? I figure that I'm getting a weak signal to the starter when the car is hot but I don't really understand why. I figured maybe it was a worn ignition switch on the column giving intermitent bad voltage, so I replaced that. The fact that when I manually jump the terminals on the starter and it works tells me it's not the starter. I'm really at a loss right now, any help would be great.

-Jim

Green89IROC305

ive had a lot of problems with my cars that ive had and starters. when the starter gets hot it just doesnt want to start. you turn the key and get nothing. the problem is the starter. as it gets older heat affects it more and more until eventually it just wont start when hot. id replacce it it fixed my problem when i had that issue.

also see this thread.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...r-problem.html

look at the end for a little more detailed post on my experiences with starters.

conlinj

iTrader: (3)

I had posted my problem as part of that thread. I really don't think it's a problem with the starter at all. When it won't start with the key I can go under the car with a screw driver, leave the key to on, and crank the car. And also the car will sometimes hot start.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to run a new relay for the starter. Use the starter trigger wire to trigger the solenoid and wire the relay to the battery so the "s" terminal on the starter gets a full 12 volts.

-Jim

Green89IROC305

of course the starter is going to spin if you supply 12 volts to the starter terminal. thats not the issue. the real issue is getting the voltage to that terminal and the solenoid does that, and thats what is getting hot. the starter is probably fine. but i consider the starter/solenoid one unit. i would try replacing the solenoid itself if you dont want to replace the starter but in my experience its about the same price either way. also you can do that switch if you want but it may be more hassle than its worth.
also my cars sometimes started when hot and sometimes didnt, but the longer i let it go the more often they didnt start. one other thing you can do to prevent this in the future if you do choose to try the route i suggest is install a heat shield along with the starter. im not just talking from my experience i also took a class on automotive electricity, which includes starting/charging systems as well as basic wiring and sensor funtions and what not.