2 things: dome light and power lock questions/wiring diagram needed
11-23-2004, 10:25 AM
#1
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Readington, NJ
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
2 things: dome light and power lock questions/wiring diagram needed
I'm in the process of installing an alarm and I was able to find most things out myself by doing the 12v point tester thing, but I got stumped on the dome light and power locks.
Dome light: I pulled the dimmer switch, thinking that I could just splice into one of those wires to turn the dome light on/off. I found the hot wire and then turned the dimmer up all the way to turn on the dome light. The dome came on like it should but the hot wire went away (all four became cold). Confused, I tried another ground only to find that the same thing happened. Opening a door also made my hot wire go away.
So... How can I turn the dome light on/off by adding one 12v wire without ripping out the headliner and running another power lead to the light?
Power Locks: What's the easiest way to get the power locks (factory) working remotely? The alarm came with two wires that switch polarity to activate the locks. There are three wiring setups in the manual: positive and negative (which just flip current back and fourth to trip the relays as if you were hitting the power lock buttons) and reverse polarity (involves two relays outside of the factory setup). I'm guessing that we use either positive or negative, but I need to know which one. I would also like some advice as to how to do that splice/install.
Dome light: I pulled the dimmer switch, thinking that I could just splice into one of those wires to turn the dome light on/off. I found the hot wire and then turned the dimmer up all the way to turn on the dome light. The dome came on like it should but the hot wire went away (all four became cold). Confused, I tried another ground only to find that the same thing happened. Opening a door also made my hot wire go away.
So... How can I turn the dome light on/off by adding one 12v wire without ripping out the headliner and running another power lead to the light?
Power Locks: What's the easiest way to get the power locks (factory) working remotely? The alarm came with two wires that switch polarity to activate the locks. There are three wiring setups in the manual: positive and negative (which just flip current back and fourth to trip the relays as if you were hitting the power lock buttons) and reverse polarity (involves two relays outside of the factory setup). I'm guessing that we use either positive or negative, but I need to know which one. I would also like some advice as to how to do that splice/install.
11-23-2004, 04:26 PM
#2
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: out of my mind; be back in 5 minutes....
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
The dome light operates by 'grounding out', not by 'switching on' +12V power. The orange wire is 12V constant, and the white one grounds out, either through the headlight switch or one of the door pins switches.
Not 100% positive on the locks, but I believe they just need reverse polarity to be thrown in the opposite direction.
Not 100% positive on the locks, but I believe they just need reverse polarity to be thrown in the opposite direction.
11-23-2004, 08:05 PM
#3
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Readington, NJ
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Originally posted by Petes 84Z28
The dome light operates by 'grounding out', not by 'switching on' +12V power. The orange wire is 12V constant, and the white one grounds out, either through the headlight switch or one of the door pins switches.
Not 100% positive on the locks, but I believe they just need reverse polarity to be thrown in the opposite direction.
The dome light operates by 'grounding out', not by 'switching on' +12V power. The orange wire is 12V constant, and the white one grounds out, either through the headlight switch or one of the door pins switches.
Not 100% positive on the locks, but I believe they just need reverse polarity to be thrown in the opposite direction.
11-23-2004, 10:50 PM
#4
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 3,361
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Originally posted by Gummie
That explains why everything went cold. I don't understand how a system like that would work though. Wouldn't something somewhere have to be supplying the dome 12v so that the bulb can come on? If so, where's that wire? Is there a ground out sensor that gives it 12v that I can tap into?
That explains why everything went cold. I don't understand how a system like that would work though. Wouldn't something somewhere have to be supplying the dome 12v so that the bulb can come on? If so, where's that wire? Is there a ground out sensor that gives it 12v that I can tap into?
11-24-2004, 05:58 PM
#6
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: out of my mind; be back in 5 minutes....
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
No.
The orange wire always has 12V in it.
When the white wire grounds out, either though the door pin switches, or headlight switch, it completes the circuit and the light lights up.
The orange wire always has 12V in it.
When the white wire grounds out, either though the door pin switches, or headlight switch, it completes the circuit and the light lights up.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
