ignition issues
#1
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Car: 90 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
ignition issues
One night my car took about 6 cranks to start, normally takes 2-3,
started went to work, the next day the car won't start. Later I found out that I had no spart. Since my car is a 90, and it still had the original coil, old dist, cap and rotor, I replaced all these. I marked my dist to make sure I had the dist/rotor set up the same way as before disassembly. Installed all new items, the car ran for about 3-5 minutes then it died. I figured I just need to set up the timing more accurately and it will be fine. I hooked up a timing light, disconnected the tan and black wire, set timing to 6 deg btdc. Then I hooked up the tan n black wire. I tried starting the engine but, it will start rev to about 2300 back down to around1200 then die. The only way the engine will run is if I have the tan n black wire disconnected. Could I have burnt up the new ign module that came with the new dist? BTY, I am getting a code 42.
Thanx in advance,
Rudy
started went to work, the next day the car won't start. Later I found out that I had no spart. Since my car is a 90, and it still had the original coil, old dist, cap and rotor, I replaced all these. I marked my dist to make sure I had the dist/rotor set up the same way as before disassembly. Installed all new items, the car ran for about 3-5 minutes then it died. I figured I just need to set up the timing more accurately and it will be fine. I hooked up a timing light, disconnected the tan and black wire, set timing to 6 deg btdc. Then I hooked up the tan n black wire. I tried starting the engine but, it will start rev to about 2300 back down to around1200 then die. The only way the engine will run is if I have the tan n black wire disconnected. Could I have burnt up the new ign module that came with the new dist? BTY, I am getting a code 42.
Thanx in advance,
Rudy
#2
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Car: 90 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Update:
I put the original ignition module back in and the car ran for about 3-5 minutes with the tan n black wire hooked up. Then it died and it would only run with the tan n black wire disconnected. When I would connect the tan n black wire back up the engine would start,rev to 2300 then back to around 1200 then die????? Any ideas
I put the original ignition module back in and the car ran for about 3-5 minutes with the tan n black wire hooked up. Then it died and it would only run with the tan n black wire disconnected. When I would connect the tan n black wire back up the engine would start,rev to 2300 then back to around 1200 then die????? Any ideas
#3
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Car: 90 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Update
Took the "new" ignition module to autozone to have them check it. They checked it and said it was fine. When I explained my situation, they told me that the reason the car was dying after the tan wire got hooked up again was because the gears were offset on the distributor. I took the distributor back out and moved it over what seemed a tooth or two, then when I hook the tan wire the car will actually idle and rev properly, but, as soon as I put the car in gear, it dies as if I had just turned the key off.
Took the "new" ignition module to autozone to have them check it. They checked it and said it was fine. When I explained my situation, they told me that the reason the car was dying after the tan wire got hooked up again was because the gears were offset on the distributor. I took the distributor back out and moved it over what seemed a tooth or two, then when I hook the tan wire the car will actually idle and rev properly, but, as soon as I put the car in gear, it dies as if I had just turned the key off.
#4
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Car: 90 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Update:
A week later and still a no go. I started all over again, set #1 cylinder to tdc, put my rotor to #1 spark plug, then tried the 6 deg btdc like the label on the hood says, still dies after I hook up the tan n black. Used a timing light of course. If I disconnect the tan n black wire and set my timing to about 26-28 degrees btdc, then hook up the tan n black again,the car will run for about 2-3 minutes then die. That is the only way the car will run with the tan n black connected. BTW, the timing mark is almost dead on when my #1 cylinder is tdc. Any ideas
A week later and still a no go. I started all over again, set #1 cylinder to tdc, put my rotor to #1 spark plug, then tried the 6 deg btdc like the label on the hood says, still dies after I hook up the tan n black. Used a timing light of course. If I disconnect the tan n black wire and set my timing to about 26-28 degrees btdc, then hook up the tan n black again,the car will run for about 2-3 minutes then die. That is the only way the car will run with the tan n black connected. BTW, the timing mark is almost dead on when my #1 cylinder is tdc. Any ideas
Last edited by red90irocz; 05-16-2004 at 05:28 PM.
#5
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Hello Red,
Sounds like you are being given the run-around there. Here is a trouble shootin chart that you can use to help with your problem. When you disconnect the tan/black wire you are by-passing the ECM, it will also set a code 42 when that wire is disconnected.
Sounds like you are being given the run-around there. Here is a trouble shootin chart that you can use to help with your problem. When you disconnect the tan/black wire you are by-passing the ECM, it will also set a code 42 when that wire is disconnected.
#7
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Car: 90 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Tanx trickster,
I knew at some point you would show up, I 've seen some of the mighty good advice you have given in this forum. I've looked at that trouble shooting chart you sent, I saw it posted somewhere else when I did a search. I am going to order a scanner, so far the leading candidate seems to be the ez scan 5000. I was going to get the 6000 but I could not see the value in options in the 300$ prize difference. I am also going to order the book you get the charts from that way I can go all the way across all the charts as needed. I will post again after I get this car fixed or something else happens, I need to get this car fixed before I go back to the middle east for the summer, second summer in a row they send me, such is life in the military, Proud to be military though...
Tanx again....
I knew at some point you would show up, I 've seen some of the mighty good advice you have given in this forum. I've looked at that trouble shooting chart you sent, I saw it posted somewhere else when I did a search. I am going to order a scanner, so far the leading candidate seems to be the ez scan 5000. I was going to get the 6000 but I could not see the value in options in the 300$ prize difference. I am also going to order the book you get the charts from that way I can go all the way across all the charts as needed. I will post again after I get this car fixed or something else happens, I need to get this car fixed before I go back to the middle east for the summer, second summer in a row they send me, such is life in the military, Proud to be military though...
Tanx again....
Last edited by red90irocz; 05-18-2004 at 07:06 PM.
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#9
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Car: 90 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
2a071a:
Avionics Tech, repair the boxes/computers (radar, communication, weapsons targeting, navigation) that get pulled from the aircraft, I only work on f15s...
What's a 23999 and how long were you in the af ? It will be 22 years for me come 3 June...
Avionics Tech, repair the boxes/computers (radar, communication, weapsons targeting, navigation) that get pulled from the aircraft, I only work on f15s...
What's a 23999 and how long were you in the af ? It will be 22 years for me come 3 June...
#11
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Car: 90 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
"too poitical"
aint that the truth, staying in as long as I can, I love the job and the troops, I know I only have a few years left and I hate the Idea that some day I will not be in the AF.
aint that the truth, staying in as long as I can, I love the job and the troops, I know I only have a few years left and I hate the Idea that some day I will not be in the AF.
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