Psyte

ive converted my car from tpi to carb, so i no longer have the ecm controlling the torque converter lock up. i want to rig up a switch for it so i can lock it up on the highway but i cant figure out wich wires lock it up. there are two plugs comeing off the tranny, one at the back that has one green and one yellow -> these im pretty sure are only for the speedo and nothing to do with locking up the torque converter. the plug near the center of the tranny on the drivers side has a tan/black stripe and 2 purple wires. the 2 purples go into the fire wall to the dash some where. and the tan/black stripe goes no where. the green one comeing off the plug at the back of the tranny also goes no where but im guessing the ecm used this one for some kind of speed reading so its useless for now. the tech article on here doesnt solve my problem, because the asdl is useless without the ecm hooked up. i need to directly wire it some how useing the wires comeing out of the tranny. i tryed posting this in the transmission board too

Danno

The tan/blk can go to ground, one of the purple wires gets 12 volts. Measure across the 2 purple wire and see if they are tied together. If that's the case either one can get 12 volts. Try this site, www.technicalevolution.com. Ken has an article posted for I assume, your 700R-4, on how to set up non ECM operation.

Psyte

uhhh i posted this question a long time ago when i was working on it. i also rerember being refered to that site. where exactly does it mention how to set up a non-ecm controlled torque converter? all i found was an article on how torque converters work(how they save gas, and stop the tranny from overheating, etc...) but nothing about the actual wireing. any idea on why it needs 3 wires to lock up? i thought there was 4 but it turns out 2 go to the back plug and 3 go to the front.... hell i could be wrong, but i only saw 3 comeing out of the middle(front) plug.
if i apply that tan/blk to the ground and fire up my car, its not gona shoot through the wall is it? should it always be grounded and its locked up with a power source? hm.... why would it need a ground wire anyways??? the tranny connected to the engine, wich has a wire going directly to the negitive battery terminal, a ground wire seems pointless. is that tan/blk wire mabey for something else? like mabey the ecm used it for some kind of reading? how about the speedometer and tachometer? both of those wires should be comeing off the tranny some where, if i can figure out wich ones those are i can eliminate them from the choices. i guess the one yellow wire comeing off the back goes to either the speedo or tach, do they both use the same signal?

deadbird

You didn't scroll down far enough...
http://www.technicalevolution.com./700inst.htm

StngKlr

Alright. To make this simple, read this. (This really needs to be a tech. article BTW). This is wiring on an 86 IROC, but anything else should be the same. NOTE - "should be the same".

If you are not running an ECM and you still want to have a manual locking Torque Converter, then follow these steps.

I'm going to assume you know how to jack a car up and secure it properly. I'm also going to assume that you know some different lingo when considering 3rdgens. If not, PM me, and I will get pics. for the totally misunderstanding people.

1) Locate the wiring harness that goes to the 700R4. This should be the eaisest part of the installation. Look on the drivers side of the transmission, on the top, there is a plug with 3 wires coming out of it. A green wire, a purple wire, and a tan w/black stripe wire.

2) Route the wires the way you want them. In my case, I pulled out all of the old TPI wiring, but saved the 3 wires that were going to the tranny, then I routed them through the firewall with the A/C wires, and brought them out underneath the driver's side dash (in anyone elses case, just route the wires where you would want a switch to be located, for manually locking the TC).

3) The last step was really just fill in so... Connect the purple wire to a "IGN. ON" circuit. (mine is with the radio). The Tan/Blk stripe needs to go to ground. My suggestion is to put a simple rocker switch in series with the Tan/Blk stripe wire. This way, when you are crusing down the highway at a constant speed, you can flip the switch and lock the TC, thus saving you about .50 cents in a 250 mile trip.

The green wire? I dont know, just coil it up and set it away.

Also, like the other tech article says, this mod is worth a documented .1-.2 off the quarter mile time. And, dont abuse this new feature you have on your non-ECM'd carbed car.

Psyte

ah, i didnt realise the tech artical was under 700 "conversion". also... i dont know why but it seems like some of that tech article is missing, all he did was explain the basics and that diagram didnt make any sence. my brake cancel switch should already be hooked up, and that seems to be what the majority of that tech article covers. im guessing all i have to do is ground that tan/blk and apply power to one of the two purple wires. although both of them go into the dash, one of them probly went all the way to the ecm and the other to the brake cancel switch. how is that brake cancel switch gona work though if i have the torque converter manualy locked up? hmm.... that sounds like a recipe for fire.....

StngKlr

The brake cancel switch is not going to work if you rig it up the way I just explained. The only reason I have this switch is so I can use it when I'm crusing on the freeway for a long distance, and when I'm at the drag strip. Just flip the switch when you want to use it, turn it off before you come to a stop. City driving, dont even use it.

I'm sure there is a way to get the brake switch to work with this opperation, but I am unsure of how to do that. Probably a couple of relays and such would take care of it. I dunno.

Danno

The brake switch is simply in series with the 12 feed to the TCC solenoid, hitting the brake opens the switch removing 12 volts thus de-energizing the sloenoid. No relay is needed. The circuit Ken has on his site is for fully automatic operation of TCC without the use of an ECM. I refered you to it simply so you could see the fundamental operation and wiring.

Psyte

ok, i tryed hooking it up again and the lights all went a bit dim when i flipped the switch. im not sure if its hooked up or not though, how big of a difference does it make when its locked up? i swear it did seem "slightly" more jerky than before but that could just be wishfull thinking..... all i did basicaly was ground the tan/blk and it dimmed every light in the car like something was shorting out, but i didnt smell any smoke and everything seemed ok, no fuses blew no wires melted. both of the purple wires seem to be getting power so im not sure whats going on. i made a mistake though, the back plug has one purple and one yellow, the "lock up" plug has one purple one tan/blk stripe and a green. so the "lock up plug" has one power source going to it through the purple, and then two dead wires that go no where and do nothing when grounded at the same time or seperately.

StngKlr

Did anyone read what I just posted?