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Trunk Mount Battery question?

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Old 03-09-2003 | 07:26 AM
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CustomCarShop's Avatar
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Trunk Mount Battery question?

Okay, i have done the searches read all the posts. Still have 1 very simple question? I understand everything about the grounds etc..

All I want to know, is it perfectly fine to run 0 or 00 gauge wire from the batteryback to the front of the car & splice them in ( with the proper connectors, solder etc. ) to directly where the wires went into the battery before? Thus saving me all this stuff I have read up on wiring solendoids etc...?

I know how the electrical system works & everything, i just want to kow, if doing this, will casue me low voltage problems or anything? Im running the wires inside the car to...
Old 03-09-2003 | 08:57 AM
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Dave Y's Avatar
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From: Detroit, Michigan
Car: 04 Xtreme Blazer
Engine: 4.3L V6
Transmission: 4L60E
I'd run the positive cable right to the starter(where the original went), neg just run strait to the chassis(frame/body)this one should be as short as posible, use either cable size, also run a large ground cable(same size as batt cable) from the engine to the chassis(frame/body), this ,as explained ,will not be NHRA legal, for that you will need to add a shut off switch in the positive cable at the back of the car
Old 03-09-2003 | 09:29 AM
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ShutOff Switch

Well, I live in Canada, Im not for sure if the same rules apply at my local track? But the car is mostly street car, but I do plan to go to the track a few times this summer?

Is it required to run it on the track?
Old 03-09-2003 | 04:45 PM
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Dave Y's Avatar
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From: Detroit, Michigan
Car: 04 Xtreme Blazer
Engine: 4.3L V6
Transmission: 4L60E
I know most US tracks want it w/ a truck mount battery, whether they're NHRA or not, also, if you put it in the rear of a hatchback(as third gens are), they want a sealed batt box vented outside the car(makes sense, keeps acid and hydrogen gas out of the car), you should check your local track and see if you can get a copy of whatever rulebook they go by
Old 03-09-2003 | 06:41 PM
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For Sure

Yeh, for sure, I am probly going to make the box myself & seal it myself.. Like use silicone on the inside & nice foarm insualation between the lid..
Old 03-10-2003 | 01:34 AM
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From: Stillwater, OK
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 355 DFI Superram w/ R-Trim
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
Place a large 0 or 00 ga. wire from the postive battery post to the starter post, routing it away from heat and moving parts. Use wire loom and zip ties...a short here will start a fire since it will not be a fused circuit. The ends should be copper lugs purchased from any auto parts store. Crimp the lugs and heat them with a torch and fill with solder. Use shrink wrap around the lug to prevent shorts and corrosion. The ground sould be configured the same way, only grounding it to the body's major structure. The connection to the body should be polished/cleaned with a wire wheel on a drill and then greased after fastening the lug stud. Interrupt the positive battery cable if you choose to use a cutoff switch. This is cheap to implement and might be necessary for you to pass tech inspection. Save yourself the trouble and go with a moroso blue box to mount your battery. They tech folks might not accpet your home-made version and this would be a headache to deal with. Run a 4 gauge wire from the alternator post to the starter post using similar lugs. You might have two fusible links near your alternator that need to be included in this bundle.
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