silentneko

ok guys here we go again, I went to a u-pull-it place and found a mess load of f-bodies, I bought 2 modulators from the cars with the headlights down, tried them both,and nothing, now what. where is the other reley, does anyone have a picture and where can I get it besides the u-pull-it place. also are the headlights supposed to go down if I turn the motor by hand, I tried it for a while and nothing, one motor puts up some resistance, the other just spins freely. I may have 2 modulators for sale soon if mine is still good, of coarse I will test them all. thanks

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neko
'87 trans am
car in the making

silentneko

I need help fast guys, please respond, what now?

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neko
'87 trans am
car in the making

JAY87GTA

I'm assuming your talking about a firebird correct? Try this. With the hood open hit the headlight switch. Do the motors spin? If they don't you have an electrical problem, or the motor is bad. If they do spin, but the headlight door doesn't go anywhere, here is what to do. Pull the motor back off, I found it was easiest to pull the whole assy. On the bottom of the motor opposite of the arm for the door is a cover held on by 3 small screws, like 1/4" or so. Pop that cover off, inside there should be a thin thrust washer, for lack of a better term. Then you have what looks like a plastic cover, its actually a gear. It takes some doing but you can pry it out, just don't break it. Odds are under that gear you will find a bunch of ground up plastic, and a metal triangular piece that connects to the trap door. Take the inside of the plastic gear, cleaned out of course, and insert 3 7/16" nuts in the rounded corners. Just make sure they lay flat, pack in some vaseline or something similar to hold them in. Reinsert the metal piece, Make sure those thrust washers are in the right place, there will be more under the metal piece also, and reassemble. Should work better than new, at leat until the motor burns up. By the way, I'm talking a nut that a 7/16" wrench will fit on, not a true 7/16" nut. Hope this helps.

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'87GTA w/ SLP Cold Air, MSD Coil, Airfoil, Gutted MAF, AFPR, TES Headers, HI-FLOW CAT, Flowmaster Catback, Energy Suspension Master Bushing Kit

silentneko

thanks, but like you said I have an electrical problem, I replaced the modulator and still no motor action, where can I find the other relay, thanks

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neko
'87 trans am
car in the making

deadbird

On an 87 bird this....
http://www.deadbird.org/z/mod.jpg
is the only thing that makes the headlights go up & down (aside from power of course)
The older style (the correct year prior to 87 eludes me) have relays on each headlamp housing.

Have you checked to see if any voltage is getting too the motors when you turn the lights on ? Yes, the little ***** should let you put the headlights up or down.

If you know you're getting power to the motors than it's probably a good chance they are toast.

If not, start w/checking the fuses (closely)

Scauffiel has made a great article (website plug ) on repairing failing gear assemblies here
http://www.transamtemple.com/modific...ght_repair.htm


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• my Formula Homepage
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[This message has been edited by deadbird (edited November 26, 2001).]

silentneko

someone told me there is another power relay right near the battery, I have 3 modulators now, and when I hit the switch you can hear it click, where is the fuse for the headlights, is it under the dash or in the engine compartment where I can't find it, please help this is really starting to bug me, thanks

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neko
'87 trans am
car in the making

silentneko

is it possible that both headlight motors are fried. please help me I only really have tomorrow to have this fixed, read above and plaese try to help me. thanks

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neko
'87 trans am
car in the making

mtccl

The other relay is right next to the battery. Same square 5 prong relay as the A/C relay up near the accumulator and the fan relays down by the radiator support near the air filter box. Try switching relays around. I got a used modulator and it is now also intermittently failing. I push on my modulator and it will work. Acts like a short inside. E-mail me I'll take one of your good ones.

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87 TA, 305 TPI, Custom CAI, K&N, ACCEL 8mm wires,ACCEL Super-coil, ACCEL Plugs, JET TPI Airfoil, Cherry Bomb Muffler, 160* thermostat
The Phoenix Project..click to see my project car
Trans Am stuff and GIRLS, GIRLS, GIRLS!!!!!

silentneko

no problem, but let me get my headlights working so I can test them out and make sure they all work right. I know what I paid for them, but how much are they worth. hope I didn't get raped on them.

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neko
'87 trans am
car in the making
angelfire.com/fl2/neko

deadbird

mtccl, on my bird that relay next to the battery was for the fan(dual fans). I've redone 90% of the wiring & never came across a relay for the lights besides what was behind the brake booster. Maybe it's just my car ?

http://www.deadbird.org/z/light.jpg

(yes,, I need a battery mat )



[This message has been edited by deadbird (edited November 26, 2001).]

silentneko

my car only has one electric fan, and is carbureted, but if its not another relay and not the modulator what else could it be, my headlights turn on, they just don't go up or down and the mototrs don't twitch at all.

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neko
'87 trans am
car in the making
angelfire.com/fl2/neko

deadbird

Have you tested the module (or harness plugs)to see if it's getting power at all ?

silentneko

I have not, but when I switch on the headlights you can hear it click, if I was to check it how could I using an electric meter, what simble do I turn it to, it has no words just letters and pictures?. also my batery area is different from yours, I have 3 relays in that area, I see none in your picture, thanks

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neko
'87 trans am
car in the making
angelfire.com/fl2/neko

deadbird

Here's a kind of half-arsed diagram of the headlight module..

http://www.deadbird.org/z/head.gif

You would want to use a voltmeter on the DC setting (I couldn't tell what image that would be).

The 2 red wires on the plus (as shown above) should have +12v on the at all times. By unplugging the connector you should get a +12v-ish redin from both these wires (using the body or engine as a ground)

Turning on the parking lights should give you a +12v charge from the white wire & turning on the headlights all the way should charge the yellow wire.

If you're not seeing voltage on any of these
there's a problem before the module like a bad switch or blown fuse/fusible link.

I forgot to put it on the diagram but, the red wires are fusible links (my bad).

I'm not exactly positive how the module works as far as current since there are no +/- markings in the Haynes manual but, I'd assume if you'd check for +12v on one of the motor wires while turn the lights on or off, you should see it do something voltage wise. If you're getting voltage for one wire or the other while doing this, I'd suspect the motors, the brushes inside don't last forever.

(edit*,, would probably help to upload the pic so you can see it,,heh)

[This message has been edited by deadbird (edited November 26, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by deadbird (edited November 29, 2001).]

silentneko

thanks alot chief, so I figured out my multitester and I've got all the power from the modulator except form the whit wire for the parking lights, but since they work I'm not so worried ablout that. my next step is to check out the motors, I have a chance today of getting 2 new ones so that may be what I'll do, but what are the chances of blowing out 2 motors?

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neko
'87 trans am
car in the making
angelfire.com/fl2/neko