Annoying buzzer (not just when keys are in ignition w/ door open)
#1
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Location: LaFayette, NY
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Car: '10 Subaru Forester
Engine: 2.5 Boxer
Transmission: 4EAT
Axle/Gears: 4.44
Annoying buzzer (not just when keys are in ignition w/ door open)
I was just driving my car to work (ten minutes ago) and when I stopped and turned off the ignition, the buzzer that usually comes on when the door is open and the keys are in the ignition just turned on... I let it sit for a minute and the noise just faded away until it died completely. The same thing happened at the gas station about 30 minutes ago... the car had no trouble starting up and the battery reads 14 volts, so I assume it's not a low battery warning. If anybody has any idea what I'm talking about or knows how to fix it, your help will be greatly appreciated... My Car set up is in the signiture...
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1984 Firebird T/A
305 LG4
T5 w/Hurst Shifter
Edelbrock 600 CFM Performer Carb
IROC 16x8 Wheels
[This message has been edited by ChillPhatCat (edited July 17, 2001).]
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1984 Firebird T/A
305 LG4
T5 w/Hurst Shifter
Edelbrock 600 CFM Performer Carb
IROC 16x8 Wheels
[This message has been edited by ChillPhatCat (edited July 17, 2001).]
#2
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Location: Enumclaw, WA USA
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Car: '96 M3
Engine: 3.2L V-6
Transmission: 5-sp
I don't know why your car's doing that, but I can tell you how to kill the buzzer.
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'91 RS 3.1
SSM SFC's
Energy Susp. Hyper-flex kit
GTA Sway bars
Clarion, Phoenix Gold, JL Audio, etc.
Quote "If you can't beat them, arrange to have them beaten."
- George Carlin
------------------
'91 RS 3.1
SSM SFC's
Energy Susp. Hyper-flex kit
GTA Sway bars
Clarion, Phoenix Gold, JL Audio, etc.
Quote "If you can't beat them, arrange to have them beaten."
- George Carlin
#3
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Location: LaFayette, NY
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Car: '10 Subaru Forester
Engine: 2.5 Boxer
Transmission: 4EAT
Axle/Gears: 4.44
I found the source of my "problem" anyhow, I can't close the post myself, assuming that it's not under my athority.
To whomever it concerns, Please close this post now...
To whomever it concerns, Please close this post now...
#5
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Car: '96 M3
Engine: 3.2L V-6
Transmission: 5-sp
To Kill Annoying Buzzer:
Take off the plastic piece below your steering column. (No screws, it just pops off)
Open door w/ignition on. Listen for buzzer. Find buzzer. It will be a black box.
If you want the buzzer to not buzz for anything, pull out the buzzer box and you're done.
If you still want headlight "ON" warning buzzer, and other warnings pull out the box and test the leads where the prongs plug in. (test light works fine) With your door still open & ignition on you should find 2 leads with +12 volts. Now take your key out of the ignition. One of the leads that was +12 volts will now be zero. Find the prong on your buzzer box that corresponds with the "Annoying Buzzer Sensor" and bend it down. Then plug your box back in. Everything is normal except for the lack of the infamous annoying buzzer. Everyone is happy.
[This message has been edited by REZN8R (edited July 30, 2001).]
Take off the plastic piece below your steering column. (No screws, it just pops off)
Open door w/ignition on. Listen for buzzer. Find buzzer. It will be a black box.
If you want the buzzer to not buzz for anything, pull out the buzzer box and you're done.
If you still want headlight "ON" warning buzzer, and other warnings pull out the box and test the leads where the prongs plug in. (test light works fine) With your door still open & ignition on you should find 2 leads with +12 volts. Now take your key out of the ignition. One of the leads that was +12 volts will now be zero. Find the prong on your buzzer box that corresponds with the "Annoying Buzzer Sensor" and bend it down. Then plug your box back in. Everything is normal except for the lack of the infamous annoying buzzer. Everyone is happy.
[This message has been edited by REZN8R (edited July 30, 2001).]
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