NEED HELP REAL BAD GUYS!!!!
06-09-2001, 09:59 PM
#1
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NEED HELP REAL BAD GUYS!!!!
ok my friend has a 91 rs and its been off the road for 2 years..we rebuilt it and it runs when we put gas in the throttle body but when we crank the car no fuel is pumped through the lines...the way i see it its either the fuel pump fuse,fuel pump relay or the fuel pump itself...i replaced the filter and it wasnt that so i know its pump related...i cant find where teh fuel pump fuse is or the relay..can someone help me with this? i hate to have to put a pump on so hopefully its one a those....thanks guys
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1992 RS 25th anniversary..305 tpi conversion,slp headers,jet chip,3 inch flow master exhaust,3:73 richmond gears,big block style hood,80 degree tint,black outs,b&m megashifter,high rise spoiler,and much more.
Stereo
ioneer 8000R with organic screen,2 memphis 1000d amps(1100rms each) 4 memphis shp 12's 2 capasitors,audiobahn line driver,memphis crossover,stinger dry cell battery.
------------------
1992 RS 25th anniversary..305 tpi conversion,slp headers,jet chip,3 inch flow master exhaust,3:73 richmond gears,big block style hood,80 degree tint,black outs,b&m megashifter,high rise spoiler,and much more.
Stereo
ioneer 8000R with organic screen,2 memphis 1000d amps(1100rms each) 4 memphis shp 12's 2 capasitors,audiobahn line driver,memphis crossover,stinger dry cell battery. 
06-10-2001, 12:00 AM
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS & 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1 L v6 & 305 (5.0L) v8
Transmission: 4L60 Auto
Get a GM manual for that year Camaro and go thru the trouble shooting, it's electracl some place, thats my guess.
06-10-2001, 12:43 PM
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I too have a 1991 (tpi).
The fuse for the fuel pump is located right next to the battery in an in-line fuse holder with a lid. It uses a 20 ampere mini fuse.
The relay for the fuel pump is located on the firewall on the driver's side. There should be three - two for the fans (left and right) and the third for the fuel pump.
I believe that there is a way to manually turn on the fuel pump by jumpering the appropriate pins on the ALDL connector (under the steering column). The manual says to "apply 12 volts to the test terminal" wherever that is...
EDIT:
The "test terminal" is a free hanging connector next to the passenger shock tower (not the ignition timing defeat connector). My service manual says it's an 18 gauge red wire.
Just saw a post by Vader - he said the ALDL test point is the "G" terminal.
I don't know why there are two terminals to test the pump. I'd suspect the ALDL (the schematic does not show anything connected to the "G" terminal) will operate the fuel pump relay via the ECM while the other ("test terminal") will turn on the pump directly, through the N.C. fuel pump relay contact. Just a guess.
END EDIT
Another way to test the fuel pump would be to just remove the fuel pump relay from its socket and then jumper two wires on the main socket. On my schematic, the grey wire (16 gauge) goes to the positive side of the fuel pump and the orange wire (12 gauge) goes to the battery via the 20 ampere fuse. The red wire (18 gauge) is the other side of the relay contacts (N.C.) that is used to test the pump by applying +12 to the test terminal (free hanging near the passenger strut tower). Just connect the orange and grey together to see if the pump operates. Make sure the fuse is good.
You could also just run another length of wire from the grey wire on the socket directly to the battery positive terminal to test.
Of course, the fuel pump should come on for 2-3 seconds whenever the ignition is turned on.
If the fuse was good and the pump worked when shorting the two wires as described above, see if the relay is operating when the ignition is "on" (on for 2-3 seconds, then off, or if the engine is running, it'll stay "on" as long as there are ignition pulses). This is controlled by the ECM.
[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited June 10, 2001).]
The fuse for the fuel pump is located right next to the battery in an in-line fuse holder with a lid. It uses a 20 ampere mini fuse.
The relay for the fuel pump is located on the firewall on the driver's side. There should be three - two for the fans (left and right) and the third for the fuel pump.
I believe that there is a way to manually turn on the fuel pump by jumpering the appropriate pins on the ALDL connector (under the steering column). The manual says to "apply 12 volts to the test terminal" wherever that is...
EDIT:
The "test terminal" is a free hanging connector next to the passenger shock tower (not the ignition timing defeat connector). My service manual says it's an 18 gauge red wire.
Just saw a post by Vader - he said the ALDL test point is the "G" terminal.
I don't know why there are two terminals to test the pump. I'd suspect the ALDL (the schematic does not show anything connected to the "G" terminal) will operate the fuel pump relay via the ECM while the other ("test terminal") will turn on the pump directly, through the N.C. fuel pump relay contact. Just a guess.
END EDIT
Another way to test the fuel pump would be to just remove the fuel pump relay from its socket and then jumper two wires on the main socket. On my schematic, the grey wire (16 gauge) goes to the positive side of the fuel pump and the orange wire (12 gauge) goes to the battery via the 20 ampere fuse. The red wire (18 gauge) is the other side of the relay contacts (N.C.) that is used to test the pump by applying +12 to the test terminal (free hanging near the passenger strut tower). Just connect the orange and grey together to see if the pump operates. Make sure the fuse is good.
You could also just run another length of wire from the grey wire on the socket directly to the battery positive terminal to test.
Of course, the fuel pump should come on for 2-3 seconds whenever the ignition is turned on.
If the fuse was good and the pump worked when shorting the two wires as described above, see if the relay is operating when the ignition is "on" (on for 2-3 seconds, then off, or if the engine is running, it'll stay "on" as long as there are ignition pulses). This is controlled by the ECM.
[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited June 10, 2001).]
06-10-2001, 05:08 PM
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Thanks for the info man...more than what i was hoping for....i tested the relay and it seemed ok...just to be sure i took the relay out of my car and it still didnt work....i also wired the grey wire directly to the battery and it didnt work...as far as the G terminal my plug doesnt have a G....no connector there....connecting the orange and grey wire which would have meant it was the relay did not work either and the fuse is fine so i'm thinking 99% sure its the fuel pump..any other ideas? fuel pump seems to be it...thanks again...
06-10-2001, 05:59 PM
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Yea, based on what you said, I'm 99% sure it's the fuel pump. Good job testing.
The only other possibility (that 1%) I can think of that could cause the fuel pump not to work is the wiring between the relay socket and the pump. The most likely spot (IMO) would be the connector to the fuel pump which I believe is located immediately in front of the gas tank. If it looks okay when you disconnect it, then more than likely it's the pump.
You could always test the pump at that connector. It's a three pin connector with the following pin assignment:
A = black (ground) [confirm ground is present]
B = purple (fuel gauge sender) [middle wire]
C = grey (+12) [there's that grey wire again!]
To me, that would be confirmation that the pump is bad if it still doesn't work, especially when you consider that the car has been sitting for two years. That may have given any gas in the tank to gunk up the pump and plumbing. May want to consider flushing it out while it's out using a carburetor cleaner ????
Hope it works out.
[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited June 10, 2001).]
The only other possibility (that 1%) I can think of that could cause the fuel pump not to work is the wiring between the relay socket and the pump. The most likely spot (IMO) would be the connector to the fuel pump which I believe is located immediately in front of the gas tank. If it looks okay when you disconnect it, then more than likely it's the pump.
You could always test the pump at that connector. It's a three pin connector with the following pin assignment:
A = black (ground) [confirm ground is present]
B = purple (fuel gauge sender) [middle wire]
C = grey (+12) [there's that grey wire again!]
To me, that would be confirmation that the pump is bad if it still doesn't work, especially when you consider that the car has been sitting for two years. That may have given any gas in the tank to gunk up the pump and plumbing. May want to consider flushing it out while it's out using a carburetor cleaner ????
Hope it works out.
[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited June 10, 2001).]
06-13-2001, 12:18 AM
#7
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Yeah it was the fuel pump..thanks for all yoru help...
------------------
1992 RS 25th anniversary..305 tpi conversion,slp headers,jet chip,3 inch flow master exhaust,3:73 richmond gears,big block style hood,80 degree tint,black outs,b&m megashifter,high rise spoiler,and much more.
Stereoioneer 8000R with organic screen,2 memphis 1000d amps(1100rms each) 4 memphis shp 12's 2 capasitors,audiobahn line driver,memphis crossover,stinger dry cell battery.
------------------
1992 RS 25th anniversary..305 tpi conversion,slp headers,jet chip,3 inch flow master exhaust,3:73 richmond gears,big block style hood,80 degree tint,black outs,b&m megashifter,high rise spoiler,and much more.Stereo
ioneer 8000R with organic screen,2 memphis 1000d amps(1100rms each) 4 memphis shp 12's 2 capasitors,audiobahn line driver,memphis crossover,stinger dry cell battery. Trending Topics
06-13-2001, 12:20 AM
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1992 RS 25th anniversary..305 tpi conversion,slp headers,jet chip,3 inch flow master exhaust,3:73 richmond gears,big block style hood,80 degree tint,black outs,b&m megashifter,high rise spoiler,and much more.
Stereo
ioneer 8000R with organic screen,2 memphis 1000d amps(1100rms each) 4 memphis shp 12's 2 capasitors,audiobahn line driver,memphis crossover,stinger dry cell battery. 
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