fog light help
#1
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Car: 1990 RS
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH-350
fog light help
my foglights have a wire running through the firewall and directly to a switch,{POWER}and then another wire running off the switch into an accessory slot in my fuseblock, the other day i smelled something burning and couldnt figure out what it was. apparently the wire that runs into the fuse block was melting at the end where there is a flat spade thing. also my switch stays hot when they are on and the wire from the FB is the wire that keeps it hot. i have never had a problem like this before and i have had the car about a year and a half. i have an iroc grill and foglights but my car is an 89rs and i was wondering if that option could of been ordered from the fact. because it seems like how they are wired up is CHEAP. any help is appreciated. thanks
#4
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you should power the fog lights with a relay using fused power directly from the alternator or battery. that way you will only be using low power to the switch and to the relay, avoiding those discouraging under dash fires!
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1957 3/4 rat
1966 c10 panel
1968 c20 350, 350
1982 camaro 305, THM-200-R4
1984 Monte Carlo, 350, th-350
Everett, WA
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1957 3/4 rat
1966 c10 panel
1968 c20 350, 350
1982 camaro 305, THM-200-R4
1984 Monte Carlo, 350, th-350
Everett, WA
#6
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Car: 1987 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5-speed
NEVER power a high draw accessory (such as fog lamps) through the switch. Doing so will cause overheating and fires. ALWAYS use a relay so the current draw through the switch is low.
First, you'll need a 12-volt SPDT (single pole, double throw) automotive relay. Radio Shack stocks these. The following numbered contacts refer to the corresponding relay contact (numbered on the relay):
10-12 gauge wire
#30 SPDT to +12 battery (high draw from source)
10-12 gauge wire
#87 SPDT to fog lamps (high draw to lamps)
18 gauge wire
#86 SPDT to switch
18 gauge wire
#85 SPDT to ground
Use 18 gauge wire on the remaining switch terminal to a 12-volt ignition source. Also use 10-12 gauge wire to ground the lamps.
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Willie
Supercharged 1987 305 IROC-Z, Daily-Driver, Emissions-Legal.
Paxton (6-psig): 12.57 @ 111 mph.
Paxton (6-psig) & 50-hp nitrous: 12.04 @ 114 mph.
ATI D1SC (10-psig): ?
http://willie.camaro-firebird.org/
1987 "20th Anniversary Commemorative Edition" Z28 Convertible -- Super Chevy Show Class Winner, 1998.
First, you'll need a 12-volt SPDT (single pole, double throw) automotive relay. Radio Shack stocks these. The following numbered contacts refer to the corresponding relay contact (numbered on the relay):
10-12 gauge wire
#30 SPDT to +12 battery (high draw from source)
10-12 gauge wire
#87 SPDT to fog lamps (high draw to lamps)
18 gauge wire
#86 SPDT to switch
18 gauge wire
#85 SPDT to ground
Use 18 gauge wire on the remaining switch terminal to a 12-volt ignition source. Also use 10-12 gauge wire to ground the lamps.
------------------
Willie
Supercharged 1987 305 IROC-Z, Daily-Driver, Emissions-Legal.
Paxton (6-psig): 12.57 @ 111 mph.
Paxton (6-psig) & 50-hp nitrous: 12.04 @ 114 mph.
ATI D1SC (10-psig): ?
http://willie.camaro-firebird.org/
1987 "20th Anniversary Commemorative Edition" Z28 Convertible -- Super Chevy Show Class Winner, 1998.
#7
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Car: 1990 RS
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH-350
i really dont understand all of this, all i know is that there is one small wire coming through the firewall 18guage or so, and its runs directly to the switch,{power}. then there is on wire running from the accessory slot on the switch directly in to an acc slot in my fuse block, there was never a ground off the switch though. i dont believe these lights came stck because i have an rs with the iroc grill and foglights.
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#8
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Car: 1987 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5-speed
This should clarify my last post somewhat. IT'S A DO-OVER. Remove all your existing fog lamp wiring. Go to Radio Shack and buy an SPDT relay. All the terminals on the relay itself are marked with the following numbers: 30, 85, 86, 87 and sometimes 87a. My previous post outlines what these terminals should be wired to. Good luck.
Willie
[This message has been edited by Willie (edited April 14, 2001).]
Willie
[This message has been edited by Willie (edited April 14, 2001).]
#9
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Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
And if you really wanna get technical you can take the #85 which is supposed to be a ground and wire it to the high beam so that the fog lights go off when the high beams are on just like the factory made them do to begin with!! Otherwise, just ground the wire normally!!
#11
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
I think it was a highway safety thing, so that the on-coming traffic wouldn't be blinded with a total of 6 lights hitting them in the face. That pisses people off, I should know. I have a '93 Chevy 4x4 with the composite headlights, designed so that the low beams go off when the high beams are on. I installed a lighting kit from Summit that allows ALL 4 headlights to be on when I hit the high beams. Also, I have a set of 55 watt driving lights in the bumper that are on whenever my parking lights are on. I used the wire off of the parking lamps as the "signal" wire to the relay. It works great. I can see what seems like a mile at night with all of them on and I can blind anyone..people tend to get out of the way.
#12
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First: USE A RELAY
Second: You can wire the fog light to come on with the parking lights, low beams, high beams, or with both high and low beams. All you have to do is find the right wire in the steering column to turn on the relay. I can't remember the colors.
Second: You can wire the fog light to come on with the parking lights, low beams, high beams, or with both high and low beams. All you have to do is find the right wire in the steering column to turn on the relay. I can't remember the colors.
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