MARKT111

I know this is a common problem is there any way to speed them up??better motor??are mine just worn out??

------------------
89 FORMULA 350,WS6 SUSPENSION,FRESH 355 MOTOR,TCI 12" STREETFIGHTER,TRANSGO SHIFT KIT,3.70 GEARS,SLP REAR CONTROL ARMS/PANHARD,HOTCHKIS STB,FORMULA GP'S,FLOWMASTER EXHAUAST,58 MM BBK,MINIRAM INTAKE,ALL FREE MODS(HEADERS WAITING IN GARAGE)SLP 3/4",NO CATS,

dude12387

they are all dog slow, cause they are all 10 years old, and have never had the motors replaced..... and those motors arent cheap!!!!!
im just going to wait until they dont move at all to replace them

------------------
"When something breaks, it gives me an excuse to replace it with a performace part!"
1988 GTA
TES headers
Flowmaster exaust
TB airfoil
165 Tstat
K+N's
JET chip
kenwood head unit, xplod amp, poineer 3 ways
weird rattling noises
dying 350
crappy paint
700R4 on its last leg
hood that won't open

auxout

This is pure speculation but don't they have a type of counter-balance spring? I know they can break dunno about wear out, I'd imagine so. I know the motors can push the windows without that spring and it's slow (I have a window like that) If you could possibly put in a stronger spring it would make them faster but it kinda seems like a lot of hassle for a little problem....

Tim Burgess

The motors are about $45 from Autozone & have a lifetime warranty.

Tim

junkyarddog

autozone....my new favorite parts store!!!
If this helps any: I rebuilt the power window motors in my '80 Lincoln town coup. they both were 95% shot when I bought the car. I don't know if AC delco uses bolts or rivets to hold the motor case together,if they use rivets you could just drill/grind them apart.the ford motors, I just opened up and discovered so much rust and corrosion inside,even a monkey could understand why they weren't working. tearing them down is easy,you will find two very small springs and little magnets,these are the "brushes". the coils and shaft is all one piece. the bearings are solid brass bushings.I didn't need to replace any internal parts,I used alot of WD-40 and stell wool to clean of all the rust,then small file or dremel* tool to expose the shiny copper for the electrical contact points,be sure to clean up all the steel whiskers before reassemling.re assembling was easy, I used a little axle grease for the shaft bushings,wormgear transfer case assy,and soaked the whole coil and brushes with silicone spray (keeps the water out). it wont turn unless the magnets are perfectly aligned,don't sweat it, it's easy, get the case together,snug the screws down evenly,then apply power,you should hear a "buzz" or it might even try to turn. loosen the bolts re alighn the case,then try power again,could be better could be worse. 5-10 min screwing around with the caseing alighnment and you should be in business. usually it will turn or not turn at all,if it turns all the time just get it to where it turns fastest.maybe the newer motors have "key" slots inscribed in the case so they go back together easier,with out having to hunt down the right alighnment.don't leave power applied,it's sure to cause some sort of problem. I'd just get autozoners myself,but back then I was looking at $80 a piece (damn lincoln) I saved alot of cash and my towncoup windows worked 100 times better than my TA windows do now.