No crank after new battery cable Help!!
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No crank after new battery cable Help!!
My car was starting fine and one day it refuses to crank like the battery is drained. The battery is good so I replaced the positive battery cable because it looks fried. After several tries I get it to start and later it doesn't. The battery cable is twisted with three wires coming from the engine harness around it. Can I ground it and connect the three wires to the ground? Help needed immediately!
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let me explain again, I replaced my igniton control module and pick up coil. The car started and ran. Then a few days later while I was trying to tune it, it died and would not crank. I figured the problem lied in the positive battery cable because it looked frayed.
I replaced and got my car to start but now it won't crank at all just like before. I believe it is the wires (fuse protected?) that are grounded at the starter at one end and are loose and connect to the positive battery cable wire at the other. What can I do to establish a reliable connection with all the wires at the positive cable?
I replaced and got my car to start but now it won't crank at all just like before. I believe it is the wires (fuse protected?) that are grounded at the starter at one end and are loose and connect to the positive battery cable wire at the other. What can I do to establish a reliable connection with all the wires at the positive cable?
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if i understand you correctly, you're talking about the fusible links.. the two smaller-gauge wires coming off of the starter? if you shorted something out, those may have blown their fusible parts.. and they'll need replacing.. does your dome light, radio, blinkers, headlights, etc all work? if not, the fusible link most likely needs replacing.. if they all do work, id bet its probably not your problem... but anyway, a local autoparts store will have replacement fusible links if that is your problem, just replace em and hopefully you'll be working good..
once again, im not sure if we're on exactly the same page.. the wires arent "grounded" at the starter (if we're talking about the same ones)... theres a very large gauge wire coming from the positive battery directly to the starter.. and there are two smaller gauge wires coming off the starter.. and there is a wire going from the ignition switch (through tne neutral safety switch) to the starter.. these are all positive wires.. the wire from the ignition activates the solenoid in the starter, which allows current to pass through the very large gauge wire, which in turn supplys the power needed to crank the engine..
now that may or may not be relevant, since you said something about grounding im not certain im following you.. if what i said above isnt at all pertinent to what you're trying to do, just disregard this whole thing, cause i dont know how to solve it.. if what i said seems relevant tho, then fix it! in conclusion to my novel, id say replace the fusible link
once again, im not sure if we're on exactly the same page.. the wires arent "grounded" at the starter (if we're talking about the same ones)... theres a very large gauge wire coming from the positive battery directly to the starter.. and there are two smaller gauge wires coming off the starter.. and there is a wire going from the ignition switch (through tne neutral safety switch) to the starter.. these are all positive wires.. the wire from the ignition activates the solenoid in the starter, which allows current to pass through the very large gauge wire, which in turn supplys the power needed to crank the engine..
now that may or may not be relevant, since you said something about grounding im not certain im following you.. if what i said above isnt at all pertinent to what you're trying to do, just disregard this whole thing, cause i dont know how to solve it.. if what i said seems relevant tho, then fix it! in conclusion to my novel, id say replace the fusible link
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The dome light radio and blinkers work. However after I turn the key a few times they will all go out, dash lighting and everything.
The wires that am talking about are in the wiring harness and they run to the positive battery cable at the battery. They were all twisted up and when I was able to get it running it was after playing with those wires. But how do I know the fusible links
are blown? Tell me anything but my engine is dead. When i turn the key the belts and rotor turns very slowly and choppy.
The wires that am talking about are in the wiring harness and they run to the positive battery cable at the battery. They were all twisted up and when I was able to get it running it was after playing with those wires. But how do I know the fusible links
are blown? Tell me anything but my engine is dead. When i turn the key the belts and rotor turns very slowly and choppy.
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i honestly dont know.. my best guess would be that your engine is fine but something got messed up with the wiring thats shorting/grounding something out intermittently.. im not real familier with the wiring you're talking about, so hopefully someone else can educate us both
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Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
If they are the wires that I am thinking they are, I am having problems there too. Off of the positive battery terminal is a pigtail that runs to a junction, which then has 3 wires leaving it: continuation of the original which runs to the charging connection on the alternator, then 2 smaller wires, one of which runs to a fuse mounter on the wheelwell next to the coolant resevoir and then to a connection (fusible link?) then into the wiring harness, the other which runs straight into a connection (fusible link?) and into the wiring harness. This is on my 86 IROC... I was looking in a 92 firebird and it was basically the same except it was lacking the strange connectors (fusible links?), the wires just ran into the harness.
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Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
brand new battery, havent gotten the new cable in yet... will start if I jump it. The indash volt meter reads real low (about 9V) when I put the key to run, drops to the peg when I try to start it, and I get some clicks there, but when I do manage to get it started, the voltmeter reads about 14V. It reads the same when I try to jump it, but will actually start and stay running after that. I can usually restart it after that without jumping, at least for a little bit.
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