FFCam1991

iTrader: (4)

Hello all,

I'm totally new to the PROM burning thing, and I have been reading the stickies and such. I have the Moates equipment (G1 adapter, BURN1 programmer, eeprom) and I'm about to swap out my 305 TPI for a 355 TPI.

Where do I start?! I know the AUJP .bin is the stock binary for speed density 350 autos, but I'm having a hard time finding info on switching to a manual set up (I have a T5). The consensus I'm getting is that you should start with a .bin designed for a manual transmission. Which should I select? I want to start up the car and break in the engine safely. I don't have any experience so I can't fine tune the chip beforehand. Is the corvette AXCN an option?

The car will retain TPI, as mentioned, and has a mild SLP cam (lifts in the .485 range) with Edelbrock Performer 60 cc aluminum heads. Pistons are dished 10 cc, and I'm told my compression should be near stock. I mention this since I realize the corvette .bin is made for aluminum heads.

I really need a starting point. I don't mind changing a few things, as I understand the AXCN will have some sensor data for sensors that a 91 Firebird won't have.

Please help!

RBob

iTrader: (1)

AXCN is a decent choice to start off with. Your engine won't have the oil temperature sensor. Can disable the SES for it via the malfunction flags. Can also max out the timer for it. IIRC, stock setting is 30 minutes before the test is run.

Not sure if it affects anything else.

The y-body handles the fans and A/C control differently then the f-body calibrations. Check option word 4, bit 5 (@ $19) in AUJP and set it the same in AXCN.

The hac lists that option as: N.O. FAN REQ INPUT

RBob.

FFCam1991

iTrader: (4)

Thanks!

Is there a better option? This still uses the $8D mask, correct? I'm worried it will take me forever to get the car to run properly.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

> Is there a better option?

There may be, but not that I know of.

> This still uses the $8D mask, correct?

Yes.

> I'm worried it will take me forever to get the car to run properly.

There are two things we always tell folks: start with a stock GM calibration, and get into tuning before the new engine goes in.

RBob.

JekyllandHyde

iTrader: (3)

You may also want to move over the spark latency tables from the AXXD setup to your tune. The Vettes used a large distributor cap whereas the F-Bodies used the smaller distributor cap.

I am also in the process of adapting the AXCN bin to my GTA. I'm running Trickflow 195s with a TPIS zz409 cam 226/226 Duration @ .050, .555/.555 lift with 1.6 rockers and 112LSA. I'm also running a T56. should be interesting.

FFCam1991

iTrader: (4)

Is this to say that the chip as is will not be sufficient to break in the motor?


JekyllandHyde, thanks for the tip. Your set-up is much more aggressive then mine, so hopefully mine will be easier to tune! I'm not an expert by any means, but it looks like the head specs from the L98 aluminum's on the Vette's match up fairly close to my Performers (similar intake runner volume and chamber volume). This cam should introduce a bit more lift however, sticking with 1.5 rockers.

Right now I'm pretty lost looking through all the parameters in TunerPro. Can't seem to find the fan data, I'm going to check out the spark stuff right now.

Any more help would be appreciated!

JekyllandHyde

iTrader: (3)

I did a cam and heads swap onto a 62k mile shortblock so I don't know about break in but if the car will fire up and run, I imagine that it should be OK for break in. Just get as close as possible to certain things that you know you can change right away, such as EGR control, injector constant, injector offset, AIR diable, etc. Injector constant is important as from my experience, it gets you close to what BLMs should be.

I've never been a fan of the aggressive Corvette spark advance tables. I usually use the AUJP timing table as a starting point.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Make sure that the injector flow rate is set correctly. Along with the distributor timing being close.

Once fired up hold the RPM up in the 1200 - 1400 RPM range (roller cam, correct?).

I like to leave the distributor tight enough that it won't move on it's own, but can still be moved by hand.

Hook up a timing light before starting the engine. Can then make some quick adjustments to the distributor with the engine running.

As the engine warms up can reduce the RPM. Then once it goes closed loop the O2 feedback will take over to get the fueling closer.

Once it is running for a bit open the EST/BYPASS and set the timing to 6* BTDC. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt and double check the timing.

Shut engine off and reconnect the EST/BYPASS.

At this point can start data logging and making changes.

RBob.