90firebird

I'm using TunerPro RT, WinPP2, Pocket Programmer 2, 27c256 chips, and a cheap ebay EPROM eraser.

First off, I have two chips that have been burned by a local tuner that wouldn't erase, so I bought 5 new chips from a local electronics store. 4 won't erase, and the fifth will blank check fine but won't program.

First question: how long should it take to erase a chip using a UV eraser?

I am trying to burn a stock AUJP tune and can verify it... I have loaded it into an ostrich and the car runs fine. So, with the one chip that will blank check ok in WinPP2, I then click load buffer, select the Bin file I want, then click program device. I have it set for 27c256, Vpp is 12.75, CheckSum=DF85, and I've tried the range at the following:

Buffer Start=00000
Device start=00000 OR 04000, I've tried both
Device End= 07FFF

It will then do one of two things: it will either act like its burning, put a bunch of incorrect stuff on the chip, then give me "device did not verify to buffer"

OR

it will just pop a window up real quick saying that the device won't program, or something of that nature.

Lastly, the chip IS in the device correctly. What the hell am I doing wrong?

The_Punisher454

Quit messing with eprom chips and get flash chips instead. 27sf512 can be had on ebay for around 5 bucks each. you can also get them from Moates and xenocron. I just solder them into the memcal, and have a small adaptor to plug the memcal into my burner (old PP2 parallel) works great!

1tpi

How do you set up the programmer, do you have different
start points when you burn the chip

90firebird

I've started the device at both 00000 and 04000 with no success. I've left the start buffer alone.

1tpi

I ment the 27sf512 chip

Craig Moates

Try using device start 8000 for AUJP on a 512 chip.

EagleMark

Then contact him for an adapter and chips that erase and burn 1000's of times with no failures.

I wasted so many hours on uv eraser type chips. But if you must, use stock GM chips. I got about a 75% success rate from them and about a 10% success rate with other ebay chips.

UV erase time as little as possible. I think I used 4 minutes.

Then after you have wasted many hours read my first paragraph.

90firebird

OK gentlemen, thank you for your help. I will take your advice and try the different chip, then post my results.

90firebird

I found this procedure when doing a search online. I'm mainly posting it here as a convenient place to save the information, but also to help those down the line who may have my same problem. If anything looks incorrect, please chime in.


The 27SF512 is a replacement for the 29C256. There are some differences when programming the 27SF512 using the pocket programmer:

Ensure that you have the latest software version from http://xtronics.com/memory/updates.html
Check the chip type is set to 27SF512
Parallel port (non-USB) Pocket Programmer only:
Click on ‘Vpp 12V’
Press ‘T’
Click on ‘Port Delay’ and enter 120
Click on ‘Quit Test’
Use ‘Erase device’. This must be done every time the 27SF512 is programmed.
Click on ‘Buffer Start’ and enter 8000
Use ‘Load Buffer’ to load the ROM image.
Click on ‘Buffer Start’ and enter 0
Use ‘Program Device’ to program the EEPROM.
Use ‘Verify Device’ to verify the EEPROM.

90firebird

Burned the chip per the instructions I posted above, threw it in the car, SES light blinked then remained on like it should, car started up normal. I'll drive the car to work this week and make sure it's happy. As of now, I can definitely agree that EEPROMs are the way to go and the UV stuff is a waste of time.

90firebird

After driving the car to work for a week, it behaved as it should using the above process.