clarkson99

I have a 91 GMC C1500 2wd with a 350, 700r4 trans. 7747 ecm. I just finished installing the Moates socket booster as well as the Ostrich 2.0. Upon first start up, I am idling very high (around 1200) and the engine is running very rough. The service engine soon light is flashing rapidly, and worst of all, I am not able to collect any data via ALDL. I am very confused as to what is going on. I had loaded my stock bin onto the ostrich (ARJT) expecting it to run the same as stock. I was hoping that someone would be able to help me out, as this truck is my daily driver. The truck is fairly unmodified, with only CAI, shorty headers, and a catback exhaust, so it ran fairly well before. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Have you tried inserting the stock EPROM into the socket booster to verify the socket booster install is correct?

clarkson99

I'm not really sure how that would work. I'm fairly new to this but it seems that the pins on the stock eprom are flat and the pins on the ostrich are round, just like the holes on the socket booster.

Your help is greatly appreciated! Thank you for your reply.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

The stock EPROM will fit into the socket booster, even though the shapes are different, once the EPROM is removed from the plastic shroud.

clarkson99

I'll give that a shot today and see how it goes. I'll have a bit of desoldering to do first I'll get back to you on how it all goes. Thanks again for your help.

Craig Moates

Hi Jeremy,

The original GM 'socket' should be removed, desoldered, and replaced with a solder-in 24-pin machine-tooled DIP socket. This ensures good contact when placing chips and such in the ECU. Using the 'stock' socket, you will never get it to work consistently.

24 pin chips will work in the G2 adapter but NOT in the SocketBooster.

The SocketBooster can only accept 28 pin headers or chips.

Check the switch on the SocketBooster, it should be set to the '24' position.

The extra pins of the SocketBooster (closest to the switch) should be hanging off toward the centerline of the ECU. The red stripe on the emulation cable should also be along the centerline, not the outside. This is only for 24 pin C3 ECUs.

Check the switches on the Ostrich, they should both be in the '28 pin' mode, toward the USB port.

Make sure you're working with a good 4096-byte file. Change the mask ID to 'AA' in the editor before uploading to the Ostrich.

Get with me offline via email if you like, and I'll be happy to help you troubleshoot what could be going on. I'm also available via phone tomorrow if needed.

I've got an email from you early this AM, I'll respond to that as well with this content. I posted here since other folks may benefit from this guidance as archive.

Hope this helps,
Craig

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, interesting, I thought the 24 pin EPROMs would when placed in socket booster away from pin 1 of the socket, just act like a pass through. Good to know.