MrMac98

been away for a while, i found all my stuff, i just need the schematic, i cant seem to find one. so please any help.....
thats a schematic for the DIY WB02 i think by Rauscher .



thasnk Mike

RBob

iTrader: (1)

It may be found here:

http://www.dynamicefi.com/DIY-WB/diywb_a.jpg
http://www.dynamicefi.com/DIY-WB/diywb_b.jpg
http://www.dynamicefi.com/DIY-WB/diywb_c.jpg

And Mr. Roe's bar graph display:

http://www.dynamicefi.com/DIY-WB/wb-disp.zip

Let me know if this is enough. And how the DIY-WB works out for you. Shame the price of the NTK/NGK sensors went up so much.

RBob.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Anything???

RBob.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Is there a problem with the site Rbob? I can't seem to access any of the links.

CRASHANDBURN_01

same here no luck must be bad link or a prob on the other end

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Try it now.

RBob.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

That works.

MrMac98

thanks
thats what i needed..
i found the box that had all the parts including circuit boards and bouch WB sensor.
so i have some time and have a need for WB 02...

anyone have a spare ckt board and parts for a display????

I'll just use a multimeter readout , i guess.

thnaks again
Mike

90'GTA blk/blk 5.7 etc.etc.

rsc350

If I am not mistaken, wasn't there a check out procedure for this as well? I'm not finding that anywhere.

MrMac98

http://www.diy-efi.org/wbo2/diywbchk.htm

I think this is what ur looking for.
Mike

rsc350

Sure is! Thanks.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

It amazes me the gall some people have over hosting the DIY-WB project. Now that I've placed the schematics on my site, how long do you think it will take before they end up on the DIY-EFI site?

RBob.

rsc350

Between steps 24 and 25 it states

"For the remaining tests the heater circuit will be operational.

If the LT1086 is not yet mounted it is still possible to complete these tests. On ISO1 short pins 3 & 4 together. A blob of solder works for this. If you do this do not power up the heater circuit.

(NO sensor connected!) Power up the heater circuit and verify that it takes ~ 5 to 6 seconds for the heater ready LED to light. Do the following tests once the heater ready LED lights."

I have to admit I am slightly confused, silly me cause I know there are tons of people out there that have followed these directions...

The way I read that is:

OPTION A
Short ISO 3 and 4 if you do not have the sensor mounted. Do not plug in the sensor for any of these steps. Skip the 5-6 second heater ready LED and continue on.

OPTION B
With the sensor mounted (so the heat has somewhere to be disapated to) power the heater circuit and continue on once the LED lights after 5-6 seconds.

Is that correct?

MrMac98

the way i do it, is to mount a spare tl1086 on a small heat sink and also mount up the 1 ohm resistor on the board as indicated, that way i can teat all steps to verify correct, and then remove test TL1086 and resistor, mount in box and add the final tl1086 and 1 ohm resistor..a couple extra parts are not very $$ and saves time.
also dont have to worry about understanding the instructions.
good luck and what readout are u going to use?
Mike

rsc350

I'm all for understanding and following directions, every thing is mounted in the box per the directions and I do have spares. Might be the electrical engineer in me... but I'm not a short cut kinda guy.

My display is EBL.

bnio

Hey RBob, I saw this post and just wanted to say I am using the DIY-WB still and it works excellent. The only issue on my car is that the heater just hovers below fully heated. I just don't seem to have enough voltage even after adding the parallel resistors like the documentation states when the engine isn't running with ignition off. Thats just minor issue its so close to being heated as soon as the voltage rises my any means it lights up. Anyway I think I built this thing over 5 years ago Haven't used it since till a few months ago and it doing its job nicely.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

For both of these options the sensor should not be in place.

Shorting pins 3 & 4 of the ISO takes the place of having the heater circuit go ready. So you can check out the UEGO control side without having a complete heater circuit in place.

If the heater circuit is complete, it will enable the ISO without having to short the pins.

In either case the sensor should not be connected.

RBob.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

There is a mod by Bruce R. that allows a lower voltage to bring the heater ready. IIRC, after a period of time it shorts out the 1 ohm resistor to allow for a higher output voltage.

That's cool that you are still using the DIY-WB. There are quite a few out there still up and running.

RBob.

bnio

Do you know where I can find this mod for the heater? I even have a few extra pcbs, but I can't remember exactly where I stored them off hand but I know I have them still. Hows the sensor accuracy overtime? My free air is at 4.17 volts so I just offset afr vout curve to adjust for the drift. Its been so long since I have looked at it but I recall I forgot to carry the cal resistor out from the sensor to the board. Do you know the going price for the NTK sensor, I found some at Ballenger motorsports for I think $179. Do you have any good sources for them? I was thinking about going to the Bosch LS series when I have to replace the sensor just due to cost.