Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Been trying to start this car up all week and having problems figuring out code $59 but i also think i have other issues that may be causing problems.

My car is a 165 ecm originally. I repinned to 730 and running code $59 with no other pin changes to 749 or anything like that. I've read the 730 will run code $59 just fine and so far it seems to but I have questions.


Right now i dont have my wideband going into pin F14 like they say to use. I do plan on running that but does that need to be connected to run the car at all? I understood it was for autotune feature and the ecm doesnt actually use it unless you run closed loop which I have disabled to run open.

My setup is a 401" dart small block, 9 to 1 compression, with twin 60mm turbos. Single plane intake and 80lb siemens fuel injectors (new thin style). 233/233 on a 112 cam, .564 lift both lobes. Nothing special here

I have tried several base bins and reworked them alot to get this car to finally fire. But it aint running right at the moment.

I have LS1 throttle body with LS1 IAC motor and its doing weird things. At key on, steps are full open at 167. When the car is running they are now over 200 steps?? Is it working the opposite direction? Does 730 pinouts need rewired to 749 IAC when i've read you dont do that?
With IAC unplugged the computer is telling me steps are still in the 190-210 range but idle doesnt really change at all. IAC pinouts for LS1 are same as thirdgen from diagrams i see and i"m sure they are wired right.


Other thing is the car will crank and start up just fine and idle at around 950-1000 rpm with some minor hunting of idle. Air fuel is around 14 to 1. Then after 10-20 seconds of idle time, it will start dropping lean and eventually peg at 18 to 1 and sputter then die off.
Is this something to do with startup enrichment bringing in fuel on startup then decaying as time goes on? IF so, how do you correct this in code $59?

If i richen up the ve it wont start without hitting the throttle pedal which means its too rich on startup. The other day it was idling pretty good at mid 13's to 1 air fuel but needed my foot on gas for 1000-1100 rpm idle. I have been working with LS1 throttle body to open up the blade to allow more air in since the screw maxed out and its not enough. I drilled the idle passage hole in the blade to allow the air to pass through, a common LS1 world trick.

Car idles at mid 50's KPA and 14 to 1 or so air fuel at first...targeting 950 rpm even tho it probly will idle ok at lower rpm with great tune. I just cant get it down yet.

Another thing is i have some error codes but not sure if they make sense to me or not. Says ESC/EST related failures/errors. I did notice my timing at idle is locked at 22.46 degrees on tunerpro rt dash but it used to move. In the values view, it moves with throttle but doesnt move at idleand the rpms are not rock steady. What could this be?

SO is my IAC wrong?
What is going on with my air fuel decaying on startup?
ESC issues?

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

Im no help as I havent started messing with 59yet. but have you posted over at code59 yet ?

http://www.code59.org

http://www.code59.org/index.php?opti...d=6682&catid=9

I've read you need to and dont need to repin the IAC. My understanding is all we need to repin is for TCC and Cruize..

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I dont have TCC anymore or cruise... so i shouldnt have to repin anything

I'll post up over there

Heres startup vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjDyKQftSqc

At first start its at 14 to 1 then fades to mid 16's 17's or so by end of video

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

thats right you swapped to a Th400. Checking out the vid. now.
Alot of good reading over on code59.

???

iTrader: (5)

its been a while since I tuned on my car, but yes it sounds like the cold start fuel. I don't remember the name of the table, but highlight tables and hit F2. everything is spelled out pretty well. as for iac, I didn't have to repin my 730 to run it, but all the issues I hear seem to be guys going from 165 to 59. so maybe there's something there. me coming from 8D to 59 didn't need anything iac wise. and there's something about the timing in table F1. check the 59 site but I believe timing is locked to the number in the bottom 600rpm row if the throttle is closed. something stock in the $58 code that they left in. not sure if that helps or is what your looking for, just ideas off the top of my head.

gta324

If you like I can send you my $59 bin. along with some notes.

415"
9.0"
70lbs injectors

running good, but not perfect

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I can take a look. I would liketo compare tables and such. From the other bins i've tried from code59.org, none worked. Took a long time adjusting things til i could get this motor to actually run but needed the gas pedal pushed in so i knew it was rich.

gta324

adress?

send PM if you like.

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

I wouldnt mind checking that bin out also if ya dont mind.
FSTFBDY - AT - GMAIL DOT COM

skwayb

Lots of things to look at. First sounds like those are the High-Z injectors. We don't have an 80lb high-Z base bin. I have a 84 Low-Z bin I can get a copy of but not sure how well it would run for you as not sure if the PW would be the same.

To Make your own 80lb bin, to Start out, I would take Digs 60lb base bin and multiply everything in the F29x table by .75 to lower the VE numbers in it as a starting point. You might even need to lower them all even more. (Also make sure the Cylinder Count is set to match your vehicle) I could send you my 60lb bin and make those changes to see how if it would work for you.

First - For Cold/Hot Start look at these table
F56/F57. One is for Idle and one is for Driving when cold. The table is in AFR and part of the stock 58 code so those AFRs aren't real AFRs. They are multipliers. I would leave the f29x (VE numbers) alone and play with the AFR numbers in those 2 tables. If you need more fuel at a temp, lower the AFR number.

Second I would diasable QUASI. Search for QUASI in the XDF. There are 2 settings. Put the RPM one at 0 so QUASI ASYNC fuel never comes on. The MPH one I think you want that at 255 to disable it.

Third - Once you have QUASI off you will always be running Sync fuel. Go into the F92 Injector offset table and make sure the 14.1, 12.8 volt settings are near each other or the same. This will help keep your PW solid at idle. Also those numbers in the table were based off 33lb injectors. So you may want to lower all the numbers some. If you do this, it will affect your entire tune and would require you to go back into F29x and possibly add some VE. Just something you might want to look at after you get it running. I know the 84lb low-z bin has VE numbers below 10 VE in the idle section so changing the F92 settings would let you get the number up so you aren't so low and possibly going to 0 VE.

Fourth - Looks at the F77x Table, if the 84 and 100 kPa settings have 1.1 in it, change them to 1.0. This will affect everything in the F29x table below 100kpa. So you will need to add some fuel to fix it. But this will help make sure your F29x Graph isn't so Steep from Vaccum to Boost. This helps keep VE nubmers from cell to cell closer together. Smoother transition from cell to cell is better. But you can't always have this happen but helps keep big afr changes and predictable fuel happen thus KR easier to control when you run into it.

Fifth - Spark.. the F1 table in most chips are based off a stock v6 cam unless otherwise stated. So you might need to play with your timing some too. Just remember at idle 600 rpms Spark setting is what is used by the code regardless of the rpm when the throttle is closed.

Idle - You might even need to turn the F29c table back on and tune it to handle IDLE. This table is turned off and has idle and cruise using the F29x table. If you can't get both idle and cruise to work correctly because of the cells they are sharing, then I would turn the F29c (closed throttle ve table) table flag back on and then tune that for idle. This leave F29x for cruise and boost.

Now you can play with the F28 table to get the idle in the 13.5-14.7 range. Not sure what your setup will like to run for idle. You might even need richer depending on the cam and heads. But you will be able to figure that out.

For your IAC, you are going to need to play with the wiring some as I have never tried the LS1 IAC on the 749 ECM wiring. Also if your Throttle Body has a set screw for the throttle plates, you might need to open them up some to bring your IAC counts down. I would shoot for between 30-50 IAC count or even lower. This way when the load comes on (turning wheel when stopped at idle, putting it in gear, AC comes on, etc) it will have enough room left fot the IAC to open more and not stall.

Just some thoughts on where to start.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Are you Jeff with the twin turbo 355 with 84lb L-Z injectors? I have your bin that was uploaded on Code59. I have your VE table right now but tweaked the cells around startup and the basepulse with F28 table to run. Yes i have 80lb high Z injectors. Didnt know there was a big difference in the two other than the ecm driver to run them.

Yeah i got his 60 lb bin as well, but havent tried it. I will look into that next just to see what happens. You just ratio VE down by injector size difference i guess?

Thanks i'll try that out, I saw that but thought since I didnt have my wideband hooked in yet, those wouldnt do anything but then again on my MAF code in open loop the commanded air fuel does help IIRC.

Check. Did this first thing from what I read. Have those values set.

Yeah my 14.1 and 12.8 values are the same but I increased them to better match 8D code. Now that i think about it, larger injectors will want smaller values. I may try that as well.

Yeah, its 1.1 so i'll have to change them to 1 and go at it again.

i see! that i didnt know. My timing is setup to better match a V8 thats for sure. I put in a decent table from other bins i've seen in $8D and from my MAF 383 last year. I have 22 degrees timing at idle which is about where I need to be for this cam. May be abit too much too, i'm not sure

I dont have cruise so i dont worry about that. But I do see the idle table being abit better as far as resolution is concerned. So your saying if I turn that on, it ignores F29X low map idle settings?

See i'm at 14 to 1 on initial startup it just fades to mid 16's and 17's sometimes goin to 18+ after few minute of run time. That was my concern but I'll try the above stuff and then work idle air/fuel with F28

Yeah the diagrams say same pinouts/wire color as thirdgen IAC so i left IAC wiring the same as 730 code. Does this need to be changed to 749 (others say no)? Because my IAC is doing stuff that it shouldnt. Car idles fine without the IAC even plugged in

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

OK update

Working on the car today and started out making my own 80 lb bin from the above suggested advice. Took Dig's 60 lb bin and scaled the VE table down by multiplier of .76. Changed it to 8 cylinder obviously, adjusted idle speed desired tables, put in my timing table, disabled quasi, and fired it up just fine. Works better than my other bin at this point. Free revs abit better for sure, just needs abit more VE in the higher rpms as it goes lean

Tranny converter is connected to flexplate now and filled with fluid so I'm gonna attempt driving it on its own. SEems to hold idle fairly well while in drive/reverse so far but tranny wasnt completely full of fluid yet.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Now having abit of a bank to bank fueling/air issue i believe. I havent moved o2 sensor to confirm, but I do have a IR thermometer to measure surface temps and I'm seeing a good 100 degree difference from one side to the other. Driver side is hotter than passengerside.

However alot of the driverside manifold is wrapped compared to the passenger side. So is it the wrap thats keeping heat in?

ZZ3Astro

Now that is strange.. this is exactly what I experience with my 65# code 59 setup.. the driver side was getting so hot the manifold started looking dark. But you aren't having any issues with the AFR going full lean and then recovering back to super rich are you? I hope not! That's the path that led to megasquirt for me.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Idle is still abit surgy but with part throttle or the car in Drive it is absolutely fine. Air fuel at initial start sits at 14 to 1 for abit at 1000-1100 rpm then it starts getting surgy and tries to idle at 900-950. Air fuel bounces alittle between 14's and 16 to 1 so its definately abit of surge but that has to be from injector pulsewidth variations. Still doesnt seem to explain the hot driverside tho

After letting it idle again I see i'm having the REAR cylinders running very hot compared to fronts. they are a good 150 degrees more than the others while running. 7 and 8 are in the 560-570 degree range after a few min of idle, while others are in the mid high 300's or so.. so there is a difference. I think its because my elbow has a divider in it, and the throttle body idle air passage on the bladeis on the bottom of the blade. So the air is going to the front of the plenum which means the back aint getting air...but that would make it rich at the back and I thought too lean would overheat the header tubes. Maybe the rich condition is overheating the tubes?

I still have to do more checks with it tomorrow but I hope that a more stable idle tune will bring these temps in line. 1-6 seem to be even, just 7-8 tubes just are hot. In drive and reverse the car feels fine. HOpe to drive it tomorrow to see how it goes

Drumer919

Do you have your IAC airflow vs counts table correct for the LS1 IAC? Sounds like you have a bin setup for the old style 155 count IAC and the one your trying to use has 320 counts.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

i have no idea. I dont know much about the LS1 IAC. I thought they all were good to like 167 counts but i guess the stockers are 155?

I will have to check through the IAC tables and constants to see if anything needs adjusted

Drumer919

You need to set your airflow vs counts table differently, I'm using the same IAC so I'll post mine, also you need to set the IAC park position to 255 as well. The top 3 are wrong but thats the best you can do.

255
255
255
242
229
217
206
194
180
168
156
142
120
90
60
31
0

skwayb

Unless I am blind, 59 doesn't have a table like this. It has a bunch of IAC constants and then this is table

IAC - Motor Position Temperature Offset -vs- Coolant (F10)

Glad you got it running better Orr89RocZ.

Now for the hotter banks and cylinders. There is nothing in 59 I can think of that would cause this since it is firing in BATCH and all injectors fire at the same time.

A couple of things think of:
1) is you are getting more airflow to those cylinders causing them to run lean
2) your injectors aren't firing the same amount of fuel
3) wiring issue and one of your injectors isn't firing at all
4) Low voltage at the ECM or injector harness not being able to drive all 8 injectors.

You might have to put a scope on each injector and see if it pulse the same voltage curve.

Also by the way I am not Jeff. He is a good friend of mine that has the twin turbo v8 ty.

skwayb

Since you are running a 730, you could try running a 749 and see if you are still having the same problem. Also on the 749, you could make a couple of pin changes to run the injectors off both injector drivers. I have mine wired like that and works fine. There is a post on code59 on what changes you need. If you don't have access to a 749 for free to try, I hate to have you go out and get one with the same result.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Thank you, I looked through my xdf for $59 and didn't see a table that seemed to represent IAC airflow.

How is the fuel system set-up on a TPI? Feed into the front or rear? If it feeds into the passenger rear, and then loops around to the driver rear that could explain a lean condition in those two cylinders last cylinders, and might show a poorly flowing fuel system.

Also I have found over the last week tuning the SA tables in $59 on my Datsun, that I am now running about 10*F cooler than I was previously, in most cells I advanced the timing. In others I had to reduce SA to get it to run well, without surging.

What I do with fresh tunes, or starting from scratch is usually set commanded idle to an RPM where the engine will run on it's own without surging or very little. In most cases I find between 1100 and 1300 is a place to start, adjust those VE and spark tables to get it to run at a good AFR and smooth, and then work down in RPM, trying 100 RPM down each time to get the engine to idle and run well in idle and closed throttle conditions.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

stock i cant remember but my setup is feed rear driver side and return rear passenger side to regulator then tank.

It seems as if my rear 2 cylinders are hotter and my thinking is it may be due to my elbow design. I have a divider in the elbow to help air distribution at WOT as I have heard with 90 degree elbow, air will ride rear wall and ram the back half of the intake plenum. My throttle body has idle air hole in the blade on the bottom part of the blade. So the air would be favoring the bottom passage and feeding the front cylinders. So m back should be richer and that may be causing hotter rear tubes? Is it fuel burning in the exhaust causing it to heat up?

I have to test it tonight.

Like i said 6 out of 8 tubes seem to match surface temps. 7 and 8 were matching but lots hotter. I dont have a 749 to try but should look into that just to try it and have a backup ecm

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

OK, so i wire the other output of the LC1 into my 730 computer at F14 for code $59 to work the wideband, and the car is having all sorts of trouble now. Programmed it to read 0 volts 10 afr, 5 volts 20 afr

Idle air fuel is pegged at 19.90. Two days ago i had this thing idling at 14.5 to 1 with abit of surge and revs were on the rich side.

Now its lean everywhere. did not touch anything else in the tune.

Why

ZZ3Astro

FWIW, this is a video of my $59 experience with 65# injectors. This was filmed the last day of two months of troubleshooting. Every time I went back to stock injectors it would run perfect. Also the stock 8D bin worked fine with the 65's. Only $59 with the 65's had problems. No problems with the 65's and megasquirt either.

That said, there are some people running large injectors with 59. Just wasn't worth fighting any longer for me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VT30oL4tOdc

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Injectors arent my problem, i think its something electrical or within the computer. My tune was good a few days ago. All i did was add 1 more wire for the o2 sensor input and now its all back to drawing board. As seen in my vid. Car was idling fine with 80's. But why does the tune erase onme after a few days? I guess something in the wiring moved.

Its weird cuz I added o2 wire and nothign else, now doesnt run right. BUT the IAC works properly now. I get LOW counts at idle like your suppose to have. This is frustrating, didnt expect to have this hard of a time with MAP. Oh well, try again in a few days, wont get to it tonight

EDIT: just wanted to note my air fuel gauge is acting abit funny now that i have the other LC1 output wired into the computer. Its like it starts to read air fuel then shuts off. Needled moves then quits then starts to work but moves all the way to 18, pegging the guage. Computer says same thing. So i wonder if somehow in the process of wiring in the o2, if i messed up a ground or wiring connection for the LC1 or screwed up calibration? Gonna have to recalibrate and try again after checking wiring

skwayb

I would definitely go back and check the wideband wiring and make sure you have it wired correctly. Also double check that you connect it to F14 and not something like E14. Also for the heck of it try removing the wire you connected to F14 and see if it starts to run correctly.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Not sure what happened, i guess my calibration on the o2 sensor went out. I checked all wiring last night and noticed everything was as it was suppose to be. Checked o2 sensor and saw that it was blacked out so i knew the car was running rich. I just cleaned it off and did new free air calibration on the LC1 and put a leaner tune in and fired up. ECM and guage are reading correctly so off to tune it tomorrow and finish this mess.

Didnt want it to sound like i was 100% blaming the code59 for this, but i was really careful in adding that new wire so it was surprising to me that the sensor needed calibrated again. I thought maybe there was something in my bin that used wideband input for fueling but i knew i had closed loop disabled. Just goes to show you no matter how careful you are you can still mess things up haha

Seems to be ok now but time will tell. I'm starting to get a better understanding of the tables/functions in code 59. I thought the startup air fuel ratios were for either closed loop with wideband or just with wideband input but they are just multipliers. Adjusting those just like i had done in 6E with the 165 ecm, i think i solved my rich startup then tail to lean condition. Wont get anymore time tonight to play with it but tomorow and the rest of this weekend for sure

skwayb

Yah I have had the LC1 do that to me many times. I have one wired into my tuning ECM. So now everytime I install the ECM in car I am going to tune, I calibrate it first. Stopped all these funky things from happening. Now on my PLX, I never had to do that. It works solid all the time.

Anyway, glad you figured it out and let us know the results.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

If its not one thing, its definately another

Put back an old bin that i made from Dig 60lb for my 80's and tried to run the car tonight with the new wideband input working.

Car was starting ok and running somewhat ok but started acting weird. I noticed my exhaust getting so damn hot after a minute or 2 of idle. Discrepancy between front and rears was ALOT so i was like lets check the timing.

I had my base timing way off when i thought it was close. I set it to 13 base and set my bin to 13. FUnny thing is tunerpro is only reading 21.8 degrees at idle no matter what timing base is set to and my 600 rpm range timing for idle timing is around 23.5 degrees. What value is code 59 picking from?

I thought the car was gonna be driveable tonight since it started good idled good then started to even rev good although just abit on the richer side than i wanted. But soon as i reved it a few times not to over 3000 rpm, the rpms started hunting badly/surging once idle range was reached. Air fuel went very lean flashing between 16-18 air fuel. Something with stall saver?

Now i'm having very bad idle problems soon after initial startup. It will start and idle ok at first then after few seconds it goes into CRAP mode and is doing something similar to ZZ3Astro's wild hunting surging idle thing. Not as bad but not good.

I cant believe this car is being so difficult to tune!! 2 weeks of idle tuning and nothing is working?? I may try 8D next

Could the actual timing (being correct now) be effecting this car this much?? I expected some air fuel change with timing adjustments but not a ok running car to completely crap running car with few degrees of base timing added in.

May look for more wiring problems but i honestly cant see how wiring is wrong or coming lose or what have you.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

My displayed SA relative to TDC is usually about 2 degrees less than what is in the F1 table. There seems to be a multiplier removing those two (or so) degrees.

I haven't really looked into why, but would like eventually to find why, so that I can have whats displayed in the F1 table be what is at the crank, or at least commanded.

--==EDIT==--

After reading your reply in your other thread, just as a test retard your timing in the closed throttle row (600) RPM, by about 10 degrees and see how the car runs then.

I had some slight surging issues, especially during warm up, that seemed to be timing related. I retarded my timing to get the idle smooth and then worked on my coolant compensation table, once I figured out my issues were more timing related than fuel related.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Thats what i'm thinking cuz i just adjusted timing and basically thats it. But 23-24 degrees is NOT alot of timing at idle for this motor.

Too much retard and the exhaust gets VERY HOT

And when you say closed throttle row, you mean F1 table 600 rpm. I only do the cells that are around the MAP that my car idles at or do i do ALL of the row?

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

You should only need to adjust the cells that are at the KPA you are idling at AFAIK. Yes, I mean the 600 RPM row, sorry for the confusion.
My car idles at around 29 KPA, so I use the 37 KPA/600 RPM cell, so I can't verify the functionality of the KPA versus real KPA and how it is used, other than I know the lowest cell works for me.

You have to start somewhere, you need to get a pretty steady "idle" and then you can fine tune it from there. Like I've said in other threads I usually raise the target "idle" to a point where it will idle stable, lean out, richen up, adjust SA, whatever to get that cell or group of cells running well, then lower the idle and repeat until I get to a good stable idle at an acceptable idle RPM. For my Datsun, that's 900 RPM, though it will idle down to about 650 RPM, fairly steady, my charge voltage goes down and oil pressure below 900 RPM, it's a Nissan L-series thing. On a friends truck I had to start at about 1200 RPM, and then worked down to about 650, took a little while to do, and had left it at around 1000 between tuning sessions, did some drivebility tuning, then went back to idle tuning, lowered to 900, more drivability, then idle. You won't always be able to tune one area perfectly then move onto the next, sometimes you have to go back and forth since all areas can effect other areas, as driveability tuning may help get idle tuning closer. Onec you can start to see how a map is working out, you can use that shape to project what other areas might look like.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Yeah i bumped timing down again and seemed to stable out but its sensing abit rich now which is expected. I'll bump F28 down abit to bring it back in

I just cant believe how sensitive this stuff is to timing.

gta324

Look at the F3 table, SA vs IAT. It could be why you get diffrent SA value from Tunerpro and F1 table.

Timing at idle is tricky, I can get lower map reading with more SA but its sound smoother with lower SA but then I get low vacuum so I have settled for something inbetween now. SA idle 28deg and ISS activated.

My car runs good now, uses open loop, but needs more boost .

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

well I figured out my lower map/rpm ve table. I had a lean spot in there that was really causing a surging idle. I was chasing timing issues/IAC/etc but it seemed to be the fueling. Once it hit that cell it bounced the rpm and couldnt recover well. Increased the VE there and car idled fine the other night. Actually DROVE the car down around the block twice and did two autotunes. Seemed to drive just fine. It needs abit more spark I think. Exhaust temps are very hot so I hope some more timing will bring those down abit.

I had the cold start working much better. Will see how it works tonight but it didnt crank as much as before to start. The only thing I dont like is that it goes to 1200 rpm on startup and idles there for a minute or so before heating up and settling down. Its at 12 to 1 air fuel too at cold start. Wish it was only 1050 or so rpm . But whatever, as long as it starts smooth

Waterpump stopped working the other day but after cool down, it pumped water again. Not sure what happened but there may be some air in the system. Do have a minor leak at the connection so i need to retighten and seal

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Well, yesterday at lunch I offset the F2 table by 1.64, because that's how far off the commanded SA seemed to be from the F1 table, then offset the F1 table by -1.64, and now commanded SA matches the F1 table exactly, well at least in the cells, mostly 37 KPA column, that I have been to test and compare.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

oh and yes i found that table with spark advance offsets and i zero'd that all out. Idle spark seems to match commanded. Got to verify tho

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

How high did your EGT's peak, and was this with or w/out boost....?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

i am just going off of header surface temps but from what i've read i guess its normal to be hot. I have heard of some guys running 1400 degrees EGT's at cruise and 1600's at WOT. That will translate to some hot temps on the header surface i'm sure

mine are in the mid 550-600 range at idle and after short cruise around block basically less than 2000 rpm, it was over 730 deg F on the pipes

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Something took a crap today.... on my 3rd run today doing some autotunes, i drove down the street and accelerated to 2100 rpm or so then let off and motor shut off. Would not restart. I had to push throttle down on start and hold it else it would die.

Looked at my logs and saw IAC motor steps at a moment before this shutoff happened went from like 38 steps to 251 and motor shut off.

Motor wont idle with IAC connected. Needs throttle down abit to keep it idling at start up with IAC disconnected. I think my IAC just broke. May try my 99 TA's sensor tomorrow to verify. Maybe something else in the engine went dead like the wiring or ECM. Not sure now. SO pissed tho, this car was just driving great now dead again

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Car is very inconsistant with startups so i 'm thinking its the computer now. IAC is fine, tested it on my other car and swapped both to see if one known working unit will help. It didnt and the car still is not able to run in gear or park very well.

Possible loose connection for something somewhere? I dont know. Gonna try to get a new ECM and see what happens

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Update:

Tried a new ecm and still no restart on a known working tune. No idea what happened that day when the car just shut down on me. I thought maybe my timing went out but seems correct from the log. Gonna verify later this week soon as i get time and it stops raining

???

iTrader: (5)

so it was running and just died out. never to run again?


while cranking does tunerpro show rpm? does it have spark? what about power to the injectors, did you blow an injector fuse?

thats weird man.. will the car run off a gas soaked rag infront of the intake. we just used that trick a few months ago to figure out the injectors weren't firing. i had missed injector grounds on a repin.

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

ignition module ? Do you have a DMM ? Test if your getting power to the coil, distrib? etc.

???

iTrader: (5)

i also had a dizzy gear wear out once and it just died like that.

in the middle of the road too lol. changing that on the side of the road sucked.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

here is what happened. i did 2 cruises around the block and did datalog with the autotune feature. Reburned chip each time. Then did an uphill climb with auto tune, redid the chip. Then on the 4th cruise it fired great, ran great. I got up the road abit then gave it some heavier throttle input to get other cells/VE spots and it ran great with the throttle input, until I let off... then it DIED. Tried to restart and it would not. It would fire then die. Fire then die.

I had to keep foot on gas to keep it alive. SO i thought it was IAC since in my datalog when it died, IAC counts went from low values to 251. Did that on the restart attempts. I thought IAC was bad so i tried my other IAC from my 99 trans am. Same result so i know the IAC is good.

Tried other tunes that worked before and nothing. Tried this new ecm and nothing. It will fire, stumble a bit then shut off. Will run with foot on pedal alittle.

I am not sure if the code 59 is having problems running LS1 type IAC sensor since it has different count range than thirdgen style. It may need the throttle body cracked open more orthe idle passage in the blade drilled open more.

Its got spark, fuel and all that good stuff. I'll have to check the timing again as i thought maybe it moved since the hold down is just snugged for now.

I'll recheck my fuses and such.

???

iTrader: (5)

well if it runs with your foot on the gas, sounds like all the fuse's and stuff are good.


i'm at a loss. if its running fine one sec but dying the next. i doubt its the IAC


i got nothing, fuel pressure good?

???

iTrader: (5)

oh, what about the map sensor plug? did that move? i used to have one that would randomly work its way loose.

turn on the yellow bubble in TP and make sure its showing 100kpa off with the key on.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

fuel pressure is good but i'll have to double check everything. This is frustrating

forgot to check for vacuum leaks...

when i was doing my logs map was 99.xx at key on, so it was working... not sure now tho

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

AMAZING. The car runs again and I have no idea why

I checked the car over for loose connections, disconnected vacuum lines, spark plug wires and checked the MAP sensor.

Didnt find anything wrong. ONLY thing i noticed was the plug to the alternator was loose and i plugged that back in.

Car fired up and idled extremely stable. Sounds like my stock L98 did. Free revs fairly well to 2500 rpm or so with some quick throttle blips.

While it was running i wiggled ecm wires, map sensor wires, etc and car didnt change. I disconnected the alternator plug and no change

WTF happened the past 2 weeks where it just didnt want to fire?? Is the car alive and telling me its not ready to run yet? Tempermental SOB


Am noticing very hot rear cylinders while the fronts are cooler. 300 degree difference or so on surface temps at idle. Idle air distribution problem i guess?