What does this .adl file mean?
07-10-2009, 02:08 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro SC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
What does this .adl file mean?
Hi there...
I finally got my ALDL logging to work on my 87 TPI Camaro.
The ECM and PROM is from a 88 305 TPI.
Can somebody please help me to understand this file?
I renamed it as a .txt so it could be attached.
I finally got my ALDL logging to work on my 87 TPI Camaro.
The ECM and PROM is from a 88 305 TPI.
Can somebody please help me to understand this file?
I renamed it as a .txt so it could be attached.
07-10-2009, 05:14 PM
#2
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Browns Town
Posts: 3,178
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Car: 86 Monte SS (730,$8D,G3,AP,4K,S_V4)
Engine: 406 Hyd Roller 236/242
Transmission: 700R4 HomeBrew, 2.4K stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 Posi, 7.5 Soon to break
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
You would need to provide (or tell us) what .ADS file you used to create the log file. Otherwise it can not be viewed correctly.
Best way is to provide:
Best way is to provide:
- ECM # 122165 possibly in your case
- Mask ID like 6E, 32B, 32
- bin or BCC number like "ARPA, BUA, ..." etc from the chip in the ECM.
- Motor/trans with any mods (unless they are in sig or easily seen)
07-10-2009, 05:39 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro SC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
You would need to provide (or tell us) what .ADS file you used to create the log file. Otherwise it can not be viewed correctly.
Best way is to provide:
Best way is to provide:
- ECM # 122165 possibly in your case
- Mask ID like 6E, 32B, 32
- bin or BCC number like "ARPA, BUA, ..." etc from the chip in the ECM.
- Motor/trans with any mods (unless they are in sig or easily seen)
The ECM is the 122165 yes.
The Mask ID I used is 6E
If the BCC number is the same that stands on the chip it is: 2440 AKFZ
There arer actually no mods on my engine..The only mod is a 3inch cat-back system. Other than that just a jet-air foil at the TB.
Nothing else...
Does this information help you anything???
07-10-2009, 11:00 PM
#4
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Browns Town
Posts: 3,178
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Car: 86 Monte SS (730,$8D,G3,AP,4K,S_V4)
Engine: 406 Hyd Roller 236/242
Transmission: 700R4 HomeBrew, 2.4K stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 Posi, 7.5 Soon to break
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
On a quick look using the 6E def with TP...
Your coolant temp starts at 212 and increased from there, Not sure if that is true or not. Fan turned on at 226 which seems a bit high ???
Your running very lean most of the time because the fuel correction BLM is at 158 out of 160 maximum. Need to adjust your tables or find the leak.
Timing during the romp up to 70 MPH or so was only at 26 ATDC at 3000 rpm but topped out at about 32 at 4200 rpm.
You also had knock when you jumped on it for the first second or two. Probably caused by the initial lean condition.
About 7 degrees of timing was removed during the knock at 3000 rpm and tapered off during the run. Could make it ramp out quicker to get the power up after the knock stops.
Get the lean condition fixed first, then experiment with bringing the PE timing in sooner and see if it responds better without knock.
Target AFR during that time in PE was around 11.5 and should be reduced to get around 12.5 or so.
You have two error codes, 44 o2 lean & 32 EGR diagnostic.
The EGR stuck open could cause the leaning out or maybe a vac leak after the MAF. The O2 lean error could just be the result of the EGR failure.
To see what I'm describing, Open up the monitor screen, press play and then pause the playback. Use the arrow keys to go slowly through the data samples. You can then switch items in the monitors and compare them to each other to see what is happening.
HTH
Your coolant temp starts at 212 and increased from there, Not sure if that is true or not. Fan turned on at 226 which seems a bit high ???
Your running very lean most of the time because the fuel correction BLM is at 158 out of 160 maximum. Need to adjust your tables or find the leak.
Timing during the romp up to 70 MPH or so was only at 26 ATDC at 3000 rpm but topped out at about 32 at 4200 rpm.
You also had knock when you jumped on it for the first second or two. Probably caused by the initial lean condition.
About 7 degrees of timing was removed during the knock at 3000 rpm and tapered off during the run. Could make it ramp out quicker to get the power up after the knock stops.
Get the lean condition fixed first, then experiment with bringing the PE timing in sooner and see if it responds better without knock.
Target AFR during that time in PE was around 11.5 and should be reduced to get around 12.5 or so.
You have two error codes, 44 o2 lean & 32 EGR diagnostic.
The EGR stuck open could cause the leaning out or maybe a vac leak after the MAF. The O2 lean error could just be the result of the EGR failure.
To see what I'm describing, Open up the monitor screen, press play and then pause the playback. Use the arrow keys to go slowly through the data samples. You can then switch items in the monitors and compare them to each other to see what is happening.
HTH
07-11-2009, 05:44 AM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro SC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
On a quick look using the 6E def with TP...
Your coolant temp starts at 212 and increased from there, Not sure if that is true or not. Fan turned on at 226 which seems a bit high ???
Your running very lean most of the time because the fuel correction BLM is at 158 out of 160 maximum. Need to adjust your tables or find the leak.
Timing during the romp up to 70 MPH or so was only at 26 ATDC at 3000 rpm but topped out at about 32 at 4200 rpm.
You also had knock when you jumped on it for the first second or two. Probably caused by the initial lean condition.
About 7 degrees of timing was removed during the knock at 3000 rpm and tapered off during the run. Could make it ramp out quicker to get the power up after the knock stops.
Get the lean condition fixed first, then experiment with bringing the PE timing in sooner and see if it responds better without knock.
Target AFR during that time in PE was around 11.5 and should be reduced to get around 12.5 or so.
You have two error codes, 44 o2 lean & 32 EGR diagnostic.
The EGR stuck open could cause the leaning out or maybe a vac leak after the MAF. The O2 lean error could just be the result of the EGR failure.
To see what I'm describing, Open up the monitor screen, press play and then pause the playback. Use the arrow keys to go slowly through the data samples. You can then switch items in the monitors and compare them to each other to see what is happening.
HTH
Your coolant temp starts at 212 and increased from there, Not sure if that is true or not. Fan turned on at 226 which seems a bit high ???
Your running very lean most of the time because the fuel correction BLM is at 158 out of 160 maximum. Need to adjust your tables or find the leak.
Timing during the romp up to 70 MPH or so was only at 26 ATDC at 3000 rpm but topped out at about 32 at 4200 rpm.
You also had knock when you jumped on it for the first second or two. Probably caused by the initial lean condition.
About 7 degrees of timing was removed during the knock at 3000 rpm and tapered off during the run. Could make it ramp out quicker to get the power up after the knock stops.
Get the lean condition fixed first, then experiment with bringing the PE timing in sooner and see if it responds better without knock.
Target AFR during that time in PE was around 11.5 and should be reduced to get around 12.5 or so.
You have two error codes, 44 o2 lean & 32 EGR diagnostic.
The EGR stuck open could cause the leaning out or maybe a vac leak after the MAF. The O2 lean error could just be the result of the EGR failure.
To see what I'm describing, Open up the monitor screen, press play and then pause the playback. Use the arrow keys to go slowly through the data samples. You can then switch items in the monitors and compare them to each other to see what is happening.
HTH
First I just want to say thanks for helping me out here. I really appreciate it. It is a little bit hard for me to write english also since that is not my main language but I hope you understand most of it.
You mention my coolant temperature. When I took the car out for a test drive I have had the car running at idle for a long time so that is why the coolant temp is a little bit high. I changed the thermostat 2 days ago and replaced it with a 195' new one.
But I agree that my coolant temp is not going down when driving the car and mayby that is because I am missing one peace under the car. And that is the Air dam that is going to be under the radiator?.. I am gonna buy one new for sure, but haven't done it yet.
This BLM you are talking about. What is excacly that?..I have been looking at those numbers alot but don't exacly know what it means.
You are mentioning something about a leak?..What kind of leak?
And what do you mean buy fixing the tables?
I just have to ask since I am a little bit newbie in this.
I tried to push the car a little bit with the pedal to the metal as you have mentioned above...About this knocking you are talking about, could that be because of the lean condition my car is running you say?..I am not sure what you mean about the knocking. Could you explain that a little more?
The target AFR is what I can see about 14.73 most of the time and I guess that is not perfect?..How can I adjust that one?
I feel a little bit dumb when asking so many questions but I just have to since I am not an expert at all in tuning and reading ALDL.
And I also want to say I don't have a PROM burner so I can't burn anything in to a new PROM. I guess I need that to change something on the PROM?
07-11-2009, 11:45 AM
#6
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
You're just getting started. It will help to have a little more test equipment like a wide-band O2 sensor you can also log, and a way to test & monitor your fuel pressure.
If your stock narrow-band O2 isn't reading correctly, or your fuel pressure is off, that could explain why the BLM's are off. Also, as mentioned you may have a fuel leak at your fuel pressure regulator allowing fuel to be sucked in through the vacuum line to the intake plenum, or you could have some other type of air leak between your MAF and your engine so that it is getting unmetered air. EGR, or even something like a faulty power-brake booster could cause this.
If all you have is a few minor mechanical problems (bad O2 sensor, EGR, or vacuum leak), then you may get things working well without the need to change any calibrations (burning chips). Otherwise you either have a lot of learning to do, or should try to find someone close to you who already has all of the knowledge & capability. This is a DIY - do it yourself section, so much of the information you'd need is in the stickies at the top.
If your stock narrow-band O2 isn't reading correctly, or your fuel pressure is off, that could explain why the BLM's are off. Also, as mentioned you may have a fuel leak at your fuel pressure regulator allowing fuel to be sucked in through the vacuum line to the intake plenum, or you could have some other type of air leak between your MAF and your engine so that it is getting unmetered air. EGR, or even something like a faulty power-brake booster could cause this.
If all you have is a few minor mechanical problems (bad O2 sensor, EGR, or vacuum leak), then you may get things working well without the need to change any calibrations (burning chips). Otherwise you either have a lot of learning to do, or should try to find someone close to you who already has all of the knowledge & capability. This is a DIY - do it yourself section, so much of the information you'd need is in the stickies at the top.
07-11-2009, 02:25 PM
#7
Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1995 K2500
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: 4.11's
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
Get that air dam, its the most important part!
BLM is the long term fuel trim, the INT is the short-term trim. Fuel trim is what the PCM is doing to adjust the mixture to change your afr.
I dont use 6E but I'm sure there is somewhere you tell it what AFR to target.
Knocking is pre-ignition and is bad, the PCM uses the knock sensor to listen for knocking and then retards the timing to try and correct it, its a safety feature though and needs to be corrected. Is your distributor timed correct and does the actual advance match the advance in your bin? So many things can cause knock, what is the overall condition of the engine, the fuel system and the ignition system (plugs, wires cap, rotor, ignition module)? If all are in good shape and its times correct you need to start pulling timing out of it.
BLM is the long term fuel trim, the INT is the short-term trim. Fuel trim is what the PCM is doing to adjust the mixture to change your afr.
I dont use 6E but I'm sure there is somewhere you tell it what AFR to target.
Knocking is pre-ignition and is bad, the PCM uses the knock sensor to listen for knocking and then retards the timing to try and correct it, its a safety feature though and needs to be corrected. Is your distributor timed correct and does the actual advance match the advance in your bin? So many things can cause knock, what is the overall condition of the engine, the fuel system and the ignition system (plugs, wires cap, rotor, ignition module)? If all are in good shape and its times correct you need to start pulling timing out of it.
Trending Topics
07-11-2009, 03:57 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: West Central Ohio
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 86 vette
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.07
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
But in all, if this has nothing to do with the MAF sensor..Then I am wondering what could be the problem to my car...The rough idle and unstable RPM at low ranges...That is to me still a mystery, but I guess I would find it out after a lot of research..
Regards:
Aleksander __________________
CamaroAlex
Regards:
Aleksander __________________
CamaroAlex
07-11-2009, 11:20 PM
#9
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Browns Town
Posts: 3,178
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Car: 86 Monte SS (730,$8D,G3,AP,4K,S_V4)
Engine: 406 Hyd Roller 236/242
Transmission: 700R4 HomeBrew, 2.4K stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 Posi, 7.5 Soon to break
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
I know I threw much at you with the response.
Basically what all the BLM correction means is the o2 sensor is reading that you are :
1.) getting too much air
or
2.) you are not getting enough fuel
The program is adjusting for the lack of fuel but is really at the end of what it can do.
This can be corrected by adjusting your fuel tables if all other components are working correctly. you do have error codes indicating there is a problem with the EGR valve.
Fix that first and then go after program changes.
The other issues may clear up once that is fixed.
Read up in the tuning guide sticky and also on www.Chevythunder.com and get familiar with how things operate. Understanding the "system" will guide you to what needs to be looked at next.
Basically what all the BLM correction means is the o2 sensor is reading that you are :
1.) getting too much air
or
2.) you are not getting enough fuel
The program is adjusting for the lack of fuel but is really at the end of what it can do.
This can be corrected by adjusting your fuel tables if all other components are working correctly. you do have error codes indicating there is a problem with the EGR valve.
Fix that first and then go after program changes.
The other issues may clear up once that is fixed.
Read up in the tuning guide sticky and also on www.Chevythunder.com and get familiar with how things operate. Understanding the "system" will guide you to what needs to be looked at next.
07-12-2009, 05:59 AM
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro SC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
I know I threw much at you with the response.
Basically what all the BLM correction means is the o2 sensor is reading that you are :
1.) getting too much air
or
2.) you are not getting enough fuel
The program is adjusting for the lack of fuel but is really at the end of what it can do.
This can be corrected by adjusting your fuel tables if all other components are working correctly. you do have error codes indicating there is a problem with the EGR valve.
Fix that first and then go after program changes.
The other issues may clear up once that is fixed.
Read up in the tuning guide sticky and also on www.Chevythunder.com and get familiar with how things operate. Understanding the "system" will guide you to what needs to be looked at next.
Basically what all the BLM correction means is the o2 sensor is reading that you are :
1.) getting too much air
or
2.) you are not getting enough fuel
The program is adjusting for the lack of fuel but is really at the end of what it can do.
This can be corrected by adjusting your fuel tables if all other components are working correctly. you do have error codes indicating there is a problem with the EGR valve.
Fix that first and then go after program changes.
The other issues may clear up once that is fixed.
Read up in the tuning guide sticky and also on www.Chevythunder.com and get familiar with how things operate. Understanding the "system" will guide you to what needs to be looked at next.
Actually, when it comes to the www.chevythunder.com I think I know that site inside out. Because what I have forgot to tell you guys is that I have done the TPI swap myself last winter. My car was originally a LG4 engine with that computer controlled quadrajet carb. I bought a complete TPI system and went over all of the mechanical parts. I had my injectors remanufactured and I bought new ALL of the smaller sensors like: IAC, TPS, IAT, Coolant TEMP, knock sensor, EGR valve, EGR solenoid +++
The only sensor that is used but in good condition was the MAF sensor.
There is a new Fuel pump inside the tank that should deliver enough fuel to the engine...Rotor and CAP is brand new, and so is spark plugs and wires for them. Bought that 1 week ago. Also a new water pump because my old one was beginning to leak.
I used www.chevythunder.com to help me with the TPI swap and I went out pretty good.
Get that air dam, its the most important part!
BLM is the long term fuel trim, the INT is the short-term trim. Fuel trim is what the PCM is doing to adjust the mixture to change your afr.
I dont use 6E but I'm sure there is somewhere you tell it what AFR to target.
Knocking is pre-ignition and is bad, the PCM uses the knock sensor to listen for knocking and then retards the timing to try and correct it, its a safety feature though and needs to be corrected. Is your distributor timed correct and does the actual advance match the advance in your bin? So many things can cause knock, what is the overall condition of the engine, the fuel system and the ignition system (plugs, wires cap, rotor, ignition module)? If all are in good shape and its times correct you need to start pulling timing out of it.
BLM is the long term fuel trim, the INT is the short-term trim. Fuel trim is what the PCM is doing to adjust the mixture to change your afr.
I dont use 6E but I'm sure there is somewhere you tell it what AFR to target.
Knocking is pre-ignition and is bad, the PCM uses the knock sensor to listen for knocking and then retards the timing to try and correct it, its a safety feature though and needs to be corrected. Is your distributor timed correct and does the actual advance match the advance in your bin? So many things can cause knock, what is the overall condition of the engine, the fuel system and the ignition system (plugs, wires cap, rotor, ignition module)? If all are in good shape and its times correct you need to start pulling timing out of it.
Thank you for explaining the knocking and INT and BLM. It really helps me to understand the basics of the meanings of this.
You guys are really great to explain things, and I really appreciate that.
Like I mentioned to JP86SS above, all of the ignition components are brand new. Just bought them new 2 weeks ago. Cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires.
The only thing that is old is the ignition module and the coil.
When I installed the TPI system on my car I adjusted the timing to 6 degrees, but I haven't checked if it is misadjusted now.
You're just getting started. It will help to have a little more test equipment like a wide-band O2 sensor you can also log, and a way to test & monitor your fuel pressure.
If your stock narrow-band O2 isn't reading correctly, or your fuel pressure is off, that could explain why the BLM's are off. Also, as mentioned you may have a fuel leak at your fuel pressure regulator allowing fuel to be sucked in through the vacuum line to the intake plenum, or you could have some other type of air leak between your MAF and your engine so that it is getting unmetered air. EGR, or even something like a faulty power-brake booster could cause this.
If all you have is a few minor mechanical problems (bad O2 sensor, EGR, or vacuum leak), then you may get things working well without the need to change any calibrations (burning chips). Otherwise you either have a lot of learning to do, or should try to find someone close to you who already has all of the knowledge & capability. This is a DIY - do it yourself section, so much of the information you'd need is in the stickies at the top.
If your stock narrow-band O2 isn't reading correctly, or your fuel pressure is off, that could explain why the BLM's are off. Also, as mentioned you may have a fuel leak at your fuel pressure regulator allowing fuel to be sucked in through the vacuum line to the intake plenum, or you could have some other type of air leak between your MAF and your engine so that it is getting unmetered air. EGR, or even something like a faulty power-brake booster could cause this.
If all you have is a few minor mechanical problems (bad O2 sensor, EGR, or vacuum leak), then you may get things working well without the need to change any calibrations (burning chips). Otherwise you either have a lot of learning to do, or should try to find someone close to you who already has all of the knowledge & capability. This is a DIY - do it yourself section, so much of the information you'd need is in the stickies at the top.
So I was thinking, could this have something to do with the fuel pressure regulator?. I mean if the fuel pressure regulator lets fuel get in to the vacuum in the engine. The vacuum smell would be like fuel. And vacuum is used to turn change the heater vents and mayby that could have something to do with it?..
Another thing I wanted to tell you is that yesterday when my car was idling. I tried to disconnect the fuel pressure regulator from the plenum just to check if there was any fuel or something. There was no fuel, but I thought something other was strange. The RPM didn't change at all when I disconnected the fuel pressure regulator. Isn't that wrong or strange?
Should the idle be very rough or mayby even stall the engine?
Just have to ask...
07-12-2009, 02:00 PM
#11
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
The air dam creates a negative pressure area behind it which makes much more air flow through the radiator. It is extremely important to the cooling system.
I would check your FPR more closely.
Aside from taking it apart to check for ripped diaphram, you could cap off both ports and remove the vacuum line to see if the fuel smell goes away after a couple of days of driving.
You could also test to see if the fuel pressure is responding to removal of that vacuum line from the FPR.
It wasn't mentioned yet I don't think, but an exhaust leak upstream of your O2 sensor could cause similar problems.
I would check your FPR more closely.
Aside from taking it apart to check for ripped diaphram, you could cap off both ports and remove the vacuum line to see if the fuel smell goes away after a couple of days of driving.
You could also test to see if the fuel pressure is responding to removal of that vacuum line from the FPR.
It wasn't mentioned yet I don't think, but an exhaust leak upstream of your O2 sensor could cause similar problems.
07-13-2009, 04:49 AM
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro SC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
The air dam creates a negative pressure area behind it which makes much more air flow through the radiator. It is extremely important to the cooling system.
I would check your FPR more closely.
Aside from taking it apart to check for ripped diaphram, you could cap off both ports and remove the vacuum line to see if the fuel smell goes away after a couple of days of driving.
You could also test to see if the fuel pressure is responding to removal of that vacuum line from the FPR.
It wasn't mentioned yet I don't think, but an exhaust leak upstream of your O2 sensor could cause similar problems.
I would check your FPR more closely.
Aside from taking it apart to check for ripped diaphram, you could cap off both ports and remove the vacuum line to see if the fuel smell goes away after a couple of days of driving.
You could also test to see if the fuel pressure is responding to removal of that vacuum line from the FPR.
It wasn't mentioned yet I don't think, but an exhaust leak upstream of your O2 sensor could cause similar problems.
I will buy that air dam today and I would also try to open my FPR to check the diaphram...
I just think the fuel smell could have something to do with the BLM on my ALDL logging...
But what is wrong to my EGR is still a mystery, because those parts are also brand new. The EGR valve itself it's new and the EGR solenoid and pigtail connector for the solenoid. new Vacuum hoses that goes from TB and EGR valve to the EGR solenoid are new. The only thing that is old on the EGR system is the temperature switch that is mounted on the EGR valve.
07-31-2009, 09:24 AM
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro SC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
Can you guys check out something on that .adl file?
I have had a lot of problems with my transmission lately.
Actually the problems came after I swapped from carb to TPI.
The problem is that when transmission is in DRIVE or OVERDRIVE I have some problems driving at low speeds.
It feels like the transmission converter lockup is somehow damaged.
the car is shaking a lot and can not decide wich gear it wants to be in.
Let's say I drive about 30mph in DRIVE. And the RPM is about 1200RPM and the car is going to shift down. from 3rd to 2nd.
There is a lot of shaking going on and RPM jumps. Something is not right at my transmission.
I see something on TunerPRO if you look at the ALDL flags and down on the transmission specs.
There is something with the 4th gear. That one turnes from false to true very fast. Is that how it should be?
Just curious..
I have had a lot of problems with my transmission lately.
Actually the problems came after I swapped from carb to TPI.
The problem is that when transmission is in DRIVE or OVERDRIVE I have some problems driving at low speeds.
It feels like the transmission converter lockup is somehow damaged.
the car is shaking a lot and can not decide wich gear it wants to be in.
Let's say I drive about 30mph in DRIVE. And the RPM is about 1200RPM and the car is going to shift down. from 3rd to 2nd.
There is a lot of shaking going on and RPM jumps. Something is not right at my transmission.
I see something on TunerPRO if you look at the ALDL flags and down on the transmission specs.
There is something with the 4th gear. That one turnes from false to true very fast. Is that how it should be?
Just curious..
07-31-2009, 12:52 PM
#14
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
Could you be talking about the high-gear flag?
Factory TCC code has delays and hysteresis to prevent chatter & shake.
My first thought was that your TV cable may not be installed/adjusted properly.
I suppose there could also be a problem with how your shifter switch is functioning, possibly giving the ECM bad info.
Factory TCC code has delays and hysteresis to prevent chatter & shake.
My first thought was that your TV cable may not be installed/adjusted properly.
I suppose there could also be a problem with how your shifter switch is functioning, possibly giving the ECM bad info.
07-31-2009, 02:36 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: West Central Ohio
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 86 vette
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.07
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
Can you guys check out something on that .adl file?
I have had a lot of problems with my transmission lately.
Actually the problems came after I swapped from carb to TPI.
The problem is that when transmission is in DRIVE or OVERDRIVE I have some problems driving at low speeds.
It feels like the transmission converter lockup is somehow damaged.
the car is shaking a lot and can not decide wich gear it wants to be in.
Let's say I drive about 30mph in DRIVE. And the RPM is about 1200RPM and the car is going to shift down. from 3rd to 2nd.
There is a lot of shaking going on and RPM jumps. Something is not right at my transmission.
I see something on TunerPRO if you look at the ALDL flags and down on the transmission specs.
There is something with the 4th gear. That one turnes from false to true very fast. Is that how it should be?
Just curious..
I have had a lot of problems with my transmission lately.
Actually the problems came after I swapped from carb to TPI.
The problem is that when transmission is in DRIVE or OVERDRIVE I have some problems driving at low speeds.
It feels like the transmission converter lockup is somehow damaged.
the car is shaking a lot and can not decide wich gear it wants to be in.
Let's say I drive about 30mph in DRIVE. And the RPM is about 1200RPM and the car is going to shift down. from 3rd to 2nd.
There is a lot of shaking going on and RPM jumps. Something is not right at my transmission.
I see something on TunerPRO if you look at the ALDL flags and down on the transmission specs.
There is something with the 4th gear. That one turnes from false to true very fast. Is that how it should be?
Just curious..
A stock cam can pull this low, but any kind of over 200 duration cam will be out of it's range. This kind of engine behavior is normal at high load low rpm. Review your cam spec's for the operating range.
The 2.73 rear gear is for high speed not low speed. If the rear end is geared up, the Tcc has to be unlocked sooner. Arap bin is for a 3.07 gear so raise your TCC lockup points to a higher mph. This will allow for more rpm before lockup, and allow a higher rpm after the lockup. One hundred rpm can make a big difference.
07-31-2009, 04:27 PM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro SC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
Could you be talking about the high-gear flag?
Factory TCC code has delays and hysteresis to prevent chatter & shake.
My first thought was that your TV cable may not be installed/adjusted properly.
I suppose there could also be a problem with how your shifter switch is functioning, possibly giving the ECM bad info.
Factory TCC code has delays and hysteresis to prevent chatter & shake.
My first thought was that your TV cable may not be installed/adjusted properly.
I suppose there could also be a problem with how your shifter switch is functioning, possibly giving the ECM bad info.
I don't know if it is the high-gear flag, but if you go in to TunerPRO RT.
And click the ALDL flags window. You have a list that says:
Important stuff:
Error codes:
AIR mode word:
Transmission:
At the transmission text, that is were the information stands.
False 1st gear
True 3rd gear
False 4th gear
YES Overdrive requested
YES Park/Neutral
I think something is giving the ECM bad info here because this shaking is very unnormal.
The shaking happends in Drive and in Overdrive. I always happend a low rpm's about 1000rpm to 1300rpm when i don't give any throttle..
If I touch the gas pedal a little it is the same, sometimes the shaking is worse also. If I touch the brake pedal the shaking goes away and if I give a little bit more gas the shaking goes away...Very irritating problem...
07-31-2009, 04:30 PM
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro SC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
At 1200 rpm you are at the lower limit of what the engine can pull, at this low of a rpm the TCC lock should be unlocked.
A stock cam can pull this low, but any kind of over 200 duration cam will be out of it's range. This kind of engine behavior is normal at high load low rpm. Review your cam spec's for the operating range.
The 2.73 rear gear is for high speed not low speed. If the rear end is geared up, the Tcc has to be unlocked sooner. Arap bin is for a 3.07 gear so raise your TCC lockup points to a higher mph. This will allow for more rpm before lockup, and allow a higher rpm after the lockup. One hundred rpm can make a big difference.
A stock cam can pull this low, but any kind of over 200 duration cam will be out of it's range. This kind of engine behavior is normal at high load low rpm. Review your cam spec's for the operating range.
The 2.73 rear gear is for high speed not low speed. If the rear end is geared up, the Tcc has to be unlocked sooner. Arap bin is for a 3.07 gear so raise your TCC lockup points to a higher mph. This will allow for more rpm before lockup, and allow a higher rpm after the lockup. One hundred rpm can make a big difference.
Like I said the problem wasn't on my car when I had carbed system.
After I changed to TPI this problem came up...
07-31-2009, 07:25 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: West Central Ohio
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 86 vette
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.07
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
The shaking happends in Drive and in Overdrive. I always happend a low rpm's about 1000rpm to 1300rpm when i don't give any throttle..
If I touch the gas pedal a little it is the same, sometimes the shaking is worse also. If I touch the brake pedal the shaking goes away and if I give a little bit more gas the shaking goes away...Very irritating problem...
Like I said change the lockup point in the bin.
08-01-2009, 03:22 AM
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro SC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: What does this .adl file mean?
Ok...I understand...But don't I need a PROM burner and stuff to change that stuff on my PROM?..I only have a ALDL-->USB cable to read the datalogging of the ECM.
I think I understand what you mean now pandin. If this TPI system was designed to be on a Camaro with a 3.23 rear gears or something like that, that would make small problems for me mayby with my 2.73 gears.
This shaking like I am mentioning...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
