thewizzard

All:

First off, I've already done a tune using all the fantastic info/people/resources on this site... and was running good until the crank snapped in half... now I'm just looking for a good starting point stock bin to use for a break on my first DIY "from scratch" engine build.

Specs are:
355 Block
Vortec Heads
Edlebrock vortec performer intake
TBI w/ mods and modded stock FPR
Shorty Headers, w/ single 3" exhaust
RV Cam

Original program I used for the last engine was an ARJT 7747... But the cam on the last engine (for which the program currently in the truck was tuned to) was much bigger than the one going into this engine. I'm not sure whether it will work with the different heads and intake compared to the old ported swirl port heads and stock tbi intake.

More over... This one will be using a flat-tapped hydraulic as compared to the roller that was in the last engine. So I'm kinda looking for a program that will work "decently" as a starting point so I can get the first 20-30 minute breakin done without having to worry about tuning at the same time...

Any how... Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Cheers,
Ben

thewizzard

Anyone?

Fast... I know you helped me out by pointing me to the stock astro van bin on the last engine I was tuning... Any suggestions on this build?

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I had a super busy week and was well occupied last night. Thats why I haven't answered sooner, I haven't been on here until today.

Vortec Heads + RV cam are going to drastically change you fuel/timing requirements, enough that really no stock .BIN is going to run it all that well. I could probably lay one out that would run well enough for the first minute or so at 2,000 rpm to get into closed loop and make your break-in a success. Basically give it enough fuel to run at 2,000 rpm part-throttle, without drowning it, for the first 60 seconds, until the now much reduced closed loop delay times out and it goes closed loop. Once the cam is broken in the real tuning can start. I'll dig out my laptop and a Modified (By me) ARHT .BIN that I have and see if its close enough. This engine was in my 1980 C10 and ran a 204/214 @ .050" duration can with a pair of 041 double humps, around 300-315 HP. I know the timing will have to be backed off a little, but it should get you reasonably close. Do you know what the cam specs are so I can tailor the fuel map in the direction I see fit. If it is useable with minor tweaks, I will post it up on Moates.net in the 1227747 $42 section.

thewizzard

Hey Fast!! thanks for the reply! Sure appreciate it...

As for the cam specs... kind of a funny story actually... long story short is that I have absolutely no idea what the actual specs on the cam are. Picked up the parts for this engine from a guy for 500 bucks... had been freshly machined, crank turned, new vortec heads, intake and cam... but he didn't have the cam card... Just needed to be put together...

By measuring lift on the lobe compared to the base circle * the 1.5 rocker ratio... I got ~.420 lift at the valve. As for duration... I can only guess it's somewhere between 200-210 (don't have a degree wheel otherwise I'd have a better guess....). I know it's not much to go on... But the lift tells me it's fairly mild... and the guy I bought it from said he wanted it to be a torquey cam vs. power making cam... And of course the company that did the cutom grind on it has since gone out of business, so can't get the grind specs as they've been burnt or otherwise destroyed... Hence my guess as to duration...

Let me know what you think!

Thanks again!

Ben

Edit: Oh yeah... and Happy New Year!!!

thewizzard

OK, so almost ready to try starting her again...

Question though... with the vortec heads/intake & rv cam, my fuel/timing requirements if using an ARHT .bin... Which direction will they need to go?

In other words, more, or less fuel?
Spark... more or less?

I'd venture it would require more of both given the greater flow of air...

If I were to take a stock ARHT .bin, and add/subtract say %10 fuel, and a few degrees retarded spark accross the table, would that maybe be sufficient?

help... please....

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I make no gurantees on the suitability of this bin to your engine. It ran well enough on a similar engine to have great driveability and performance, yet is fairly mild.

You can download this with Mozilla Firefox and it won't be corrupted like it does with Internet Explorer. Its a known problem.

thewizzard

Hey Fast!! Thanks so much!!

Unfortunately it would barely start with the EST wire connected. Making me think it was the timing table. Today I may have confirmed that when I used a vortec spark table and added a few degrees in the lower map section and again it would barely run.

Strange... But copied the vortec spark table into an arht... and was able to get it running long enough for a 15 minute break in... not 20-30 minutes... but the #5 header pipe got just the slightest bit red, so I opted to shut it down... it has ran quite a bit since... however, like a bag of crap now! Can't get it to keep idling...

Any how, just wanted to say thanks and that I really appreciate the replies and help!!! Cheers

Dmity Kiev

Hello Fast , can you please say my bin is coorect for use with 350 Vortec . on Firebird 91 700r4 3.23 posi . non EGR

Dmity Kiev

Hello
I build 350HO from stock L05

Install GM Perfomance 62cc 170 Vortec Heads
206/212 cam @0.50 Duration 480/488 lift
Edelbrock Vortec Intake
Holley 506-2 TBI
Shotry Headers
3' Exhaust

What bin i can use for starting point , my ECM is 1228746 . 746ANLU is good ?

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

Mr Kiev: AXKW is F Body L03 (305 cid) manual trans. Need to change a couple things(BPC + air flow scaler) since you are 350. Timing table will be weak but safe to get started. Later paste in a Vortec timing table to compare. should be easy to find with search.