Killerzracing71

Okay I finaly got the car up and running, but it IDLED like trash and drove like it too

I set inital timing to 42 (idle) and it ran lik a normal car, put the timing to 38 basically flat across the board ran even better still poped at W/0n or part

I have a Lunati Voodoo 100100lk 454/468 lift cam

I need help guys what other stuff do i have to look at,

I did a data log, whats the way to post on this site that kind of info?

Please I need my Caprice to get back on the road

90c350

What is your initial timing set at, at the distributor?? Or is that at the disty and you have not adjusted the chip yet?? I would say that you should check to make sure you are not out a tooth or two on the disty. Make sure your at tdc on #1 cylinder and then check to see you are at #1 on the disty. What bin file are you using?? I would say 8to10 Degrees should be a good intial starting point at the disty and set that in your bin. Then see what happens. Just my thoughts hope that it helps.

Killerzracing71

I havent even checked it with a strobe, Dads gonna get the timing light and we are gonna check it

Its at 42 in my bin ands showing 40-43 in the WUD and revs so much better and can actually hit 60 mph

So it that 8-10 degrees after or before TDC, then you set that into intital timing in the EBL right?

then you change the timing table right?

Im trying to figure the correct way to set timing in tables. but i need to get idle straight first

HEs lost beacuse HE/I dont know how to set it depening upon load

RBob

iTrader: (1)

You will want to set the distributor base timing to 6 deg BTDC. I ran into your build thread on the TBI board. With the heads you are using the compression ratio is going to be on the high side. So keeping the base timing at 6 BTDC will help with hot crank.

Do the base timing setting with the engine warmed up and the EST/BYPASS connector open. Then shut down and re-connect the EST/BYPASS.

Then go into the calibration and set the "SA - Initial SA" to 6 degrees (5.98).


As for spark timing vs. load, look at some of the calibrations (update was sent). Note how under lighter load (lower MAP), the SA is higher. Then as the load increases the SA is lower.

In general the SA increases as the RPM increases. However, it will flatten out as higher RPM is also more turbulance which causes a faster burn.

I looked for the cam you listed, found this:

Brand: Lunati
Product Line: Lunati Voodoo Cam and Lifter Kits
Part Type: Camshaft and Lifter Kits
Part Number: LUN-60101LK
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,000-5,500
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 213 int./219 exh.
Advertised Duration: 256 int./262 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.454 int./0.468 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112

Should run decent. Did you use the L03 heads? If so, watch the spark timing. Those heads require very little timing advance. Check the L03 calibrations. In the main and extended SA tables, what you see is what you get.

RBob.

Killerzracing71

Were getting somewhere but.....

Im no longer running those 305 heads I have a set of 76cc 350 Heads
(Comp ratio was foinf to be too high if i used the 305)

So will that change anything about base timing? I see in Tuner Pro that Inital is at 6

But Ill check on it when I get home,

So what is EST/BYPASS im lost, and I cant look at turner pro as im at work

Killerzracing71

Im sorry I posted the wrong cam on this thread its this

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...K&autoview=sku


Part Number:LUN-60100LKCam Style:Hydraulic flat tappetBasic Operating RPM Range:1,000-5,500Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:207Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:213Duration at 050 inch Lift:207 int./213 exh.Advertised Intake Duration:250Advertised Exhaust Duration:256Advertised Duration:250 int./256 exh.Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.437 in.Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.454 in.Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.437 int./0.454 exh. liftLobe Separation (degrees):112

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Lower compression and a slightly milder cam, I'd still use 6 BTDC. Can go to 8 BTDC. Whatever you set the distributor to you must also set that value as the "SA - Initial SA" value in the calibration.

The base timing affects two items: cranking and limp mode. Cranking is a compromise between wind-milling on cold start (not enough base timing). And hard crank on hot-restart (too much base timing).

In limp mode there is also some built in advance, so I don't worry about it too much.

The EST/BYPASS connector is on the passenger side under the hood. Single TAN with BLK stripe wire and connector. Comes out of harness, has connector, then goes back into harness. You must open this connector to set the timing. Do it with the engine warmed up, and at first it will want to stall.

Once the idle settles down can set the distributor. Then tighten it down and re-check the timing. Sometimes it moves when the hold down gets tightened.

Then shut off engine, re-connect EST/BYPASS, restart engine. Check for timing mark, it should have moved toward the passenger side of car. Although it may have moved so far that you can't find it.

RBob.

Killerzracing71

Okay I got that done, But It still falls on its face,

It idles somewht well but, It feels like its got a massive cam, it revs a little better but pops and misses again,

Im hoping its not this

I used he Original Dizzy from the 305 lo3 motor (roller motor) and now I have that Voodoo cam thats a Flat tappet, aight

Are the gears gona match up, Someone from Impalass aid that it might run but when it comes time to set timing its gonna be hard

HMMMM so are the gears gonna mesh or? is that my problem?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The distributor gear won't be a problem. The only difference is that the roller cam gear is mellonized. Which is a surface treatment for better compatibility with the cam material GM used.

First double check the mechanicals: fuel pressure, which injectors, timing (already done!), valve adjustment, etc.

Then check the sensor values, connect the laptop to the EBL and start the WUD. Key-on, engine-off, does the TPS% sit at 0% and move higher as the gas-pedal is depressed? Is the MAP value high (85 - 100 KPa dependent upon elevation). Does the CTS & IAT match within a few degrees (assuming a cold engine)? ANd do they match the ambient temperature?

Start a data log. Then start the engine and let it warm up.

Does it go closed loop? If so then look to see what the INT & BLM is doing. Probably need to do a VE Learn. Start one (also leave the data log running, it may come in handy). Then drive around, easy, don't go flooring it, allow the VE Learn to work and get the lower RPM, driving area of the VE table squared away.

Depending upon how far out the VE tables are you may need to do several 15 - 20 minute VE Learns. Don't forget to flash the new calibration in after each learn.

At this point the engine will be running better and should be driveable. You can start to evaluate the mid and higher RPM and load range. If you have a WB can use that to learn in the VE table.

Also keep an eye on the fuel pressure during loading the engine. Along with the injector duty cycle. You may find out that more fuel pressure and/or larger injectors are required.

RBob.

Killerzracing71

Well turns out it wasnt timing sorta,

It was Firing Order I would have never got it right a all,

but now all of a suden after I washed it RAN ROUGH the CTS is saying 42 F on the Block side 152 on intake

Whats the problem? the map sensor gets stuck up at about 70 or 80 and the O2 is at 900mv driving I had to put home IDK what happen


It did it before when I unhooked the EGR the Temp was way off 43 , hooked EGR up and voilia 152 and climbing

But now its not working at all

did the water have something to do with it, but stayed away from the hood since it has an artistic touch (perm marker an Satin black paint)

RBob

iTrader: (1)

CTS's are unreliable. They seem to get water into the connector and corrode the contacts. Not sure if it is from it being on the front of the engine or from seepage through the sensor body.

Once they corrode it is best to replace both the sensor and the connector (via a pigtail). Wires should be soldered, a smear of RTV, then heat shrink.

With the CTS reporting a low value the engine won't go closed loop and will command a rich AFR. This will show up on the O2 as a high value (as you have noticed).

Once the CTs is fixed then see if the MAP is still giving high values. It may be being caused by the overly rich AFR.

RBob.

{quick edit: note that a coolant temperature sensor will also read low if the coolant level is low. So also double check that.}