lakeffect2

If i understand the theory correctly, the ECM looks at the fuel table once the engine reaches 400rpm. My engine seems to flood out before it ever starts. It never reaches 400rpm. It never starts after several months of disheartened frustration.

THE FACTS:
406ci, (unstarted fresh rebuild)
AFR195's,
Comp Cams XFI 230/236 on 113* centers.
SLP siamesed runners
32lb/hr Accel Injectors
rebuilt 730 ECM (344) with piggybacked Prominator
$8D mask for Speed Density
Bin file modified for new cylinder volume and injector size.


NEW Accel Coil, cap, rotor, 8.8 silicone wires
Champion RC12YC plugs gapped at 0.040

Using Tunerpro RT software for mods, the lower fuel table has been modified to read less than 30 from 10-40kps and 400-800rpm.

Everything related to VATS turned off ("switch 16", 8 boxes de-selected)


With the fuel pump relay pulled, I've:

Checked continuity (ohms) of 8 plug wires. NO wire would trigger plug tester light.

Found defective cap to coil wire, replaced it, now all wires test OK to plug with spark plus light.

Checked that each plug fires through the same wire.

Checked firing of each plug through respective cylinder wire to ground (header bolt) Now All fired to ground with white spark.

ACTUAL BASE TIMING UNKNOWN AS I CAN'T GET THE INDUCTANCE GUN TO READ THROUGH THE 8.8MM WIRES UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE.

IAC unadjusted since procedure requires the engine to idle. which it has never done.


AIR pump deleted physically and 'Off " in computer

Spark retard connection unplugged

Here's what happens:

Initially when cranking over several cylinder firings occur, a good sign, but it doesn't fire up.

re-crank, less cylinders fire.

re-crank, one or two fire.

re-crank, nothing fires.

PRESUMPTION OF FLOODING OCCURRING AT THIS POINT.


Finally here's the question.

If the fuel table comes into play at 400 rpm, (which I never reach) then what is controlling initial fuel pulses during cranking?

What table is being used for PRELIMINARY pulses?

Does "Enrichment Startup VS Temperature" come into play?

What else?

Where do I look to modify the initial amount of fuel to the injectors under cranking that is apparently flooding the engine before the fuel table is ever reached?





Your thoughts, questions, or supplemental ideas are most welcome, as are your prayers in respect of Grumpy in passing this life..

RednGold86Z

iTrader: (1)

It uses the crank fuel tables during cranking. Opening the throttle fully will go into clear flood mode, and basically inject nothing.

With larger injectors, and a cam that blows a lot back out the intake valve, you'll need to reduce the cranking pulsewidths.

Cranking is PW based, vs ECT, vs Time in crank mode (ref pulse), and vs TPS. The PW vs ECT is most important for you.

Lack of correct spark (like wrong firing order, or very retarded), can cause this problem.

lakeffect2

In my Tunerpro "Tables/Functions" I've found three items

Crank Fuel Delivery Delay vs MAT

Crank Pulse Mult. vs Reference Pulses 1-24

Crank Pulse Width vs Temp

When you say ECT, does ECT = Engine Coolant Temperature? I'm unsure of the acronym's meaning.

Current PW vs temp table shows

from 44 to 80*C @2000 uSec
32*C @ 3000 Usec
20*C @ 4000 usec
8*C @ 7600 uSec

Secondly, would cutting the current settings by 50% be a good place to start? If not, by what percentage is suggested?


Since I can't get a Timing light response, I can only twist the distributor at this point for general spark reference.

A spark plug tester light shows pulse at all eight plugs, but no joy with the timing light itself as a diagnostic tool. I find that odd, other than assuming the ACTRON inductive gun is incapable of reading through the thick 8.8mm silicone wires. I hate assumptions. It works on my wifes 6mm stock Ford wires.

RednGold86Z

iTrader: (1)

Yes, ECT is temperature.
I'd go 22/32 (injector flow ratio) first, then maybe another 20% if it's loading up on cranking.

Also, see if it'll run with throttle fully open. That's the clear flood mode. If not, go back and check for proper spark.

lakeffect2

I'm a little sketchy on what you mean by If you are asking if the flow rate was changed in the constants section of the bin file, yes it was, to 32lb/hr, and cylinder volume changed to reflect it's a 406 not a 350ci block

If you are asking if I have modified the fuel tables. Yes they were modified, but no, not by me.

The initial program was from Alvin at PCMforless. He cut the fuel map substantially around the lower end of rpm and kps values, based on his prior experience with big cams and poor vacuum issues. No one expected it to be perfect. We all know better than that for the first chip. I transferred it to the Prominator, and it is the basis of what will come, as I progress. All I've done was blend (smooth, equalize)the point at 1600 rpm where the tables meet and have decided to use the AUJP_V3 extended upper table definition file from here on the forum, so there's three VE tables now.

So I'm not sure what you mean by "I'd go 22/32." That sounds like you are asking me to increase fuel flow across the table, when I'm already flooding.

Unfortunately, that lost me. I have injectors that flow 1.45 times the fuel (from 22lb/hr to 32) into an engine that's 1.16 times as big. (350 to 406). Net change (1.16/1.45) would be ratio of 0.8 less fuel to keep status quo without the changes already created by Alvin. (without consideration to big cam/poor vacuum issues)

Thank you for your patience and responses.

DZcode

I have a similar, but milder setup:
406
Edelbrock RPM heads, straight plug 70cc chamber
214/224 cam @0.05 112 center IIRC
Lingenfelter base manifold
SLP runners (not siamesed)
30# Ford injectors
BBK 52MM throttle body
730 speed density
S_AUJP_V3 BIN – You’ll need this BIN to overcome the pulse width cap on larger displacements – check Moates.net for the BIN and associated text file.

I don’t think there is enough evidence to presume there is flooding going on at crank up. You may not be getting enough fuel/spark or spark timing is incorrect.

If it were me, I’d look for a different issue before modifying the BIN start up fuel below 400 RPM. Is the distributor correctly in phase? Firing order correct? Do you have 42lbs fuel pressure at cranking? Does your fuel pressure stay at ~40lbs when you turn off the key? Can you swap on an old plug wire (non 8.8mm) and see if you can get your timing light to work? Is valve lash adjusted properly? Crank/cam gears lined up properly? (I received a short block back from a machine shop that had the gears lined up on the wrong dots!)

How is your oil pressure sensor hooked up to this new engine? Without oil pressure, the fuel pump will not continue to run unless you’ve by-passed the sensor. I took the plug out of the block above the oil filter and used a 90 degree brass fitting and 1 inch extension (from Lowes) to mount the oil pressure sensor. I had to shield the sensor from the header heat and extend the sensor’s wires.

I had no trouble at all starting my 406 engine after modifying the BIN for displacement, injector size and turning VATS off. (again, I only de-selected one of the VATS boxes in TunerPro RT) I did not modify fuel below 400 RPM, but did reduce fuel 10% across the lower fuel table.

In the VATS section of TunerPro, I don’t recall de-selecting 8 boxes. I only de-selected one box. VATS will inhibit the spark if not disabled. I left VATS “on” by mistake and would still get a few bumpy fires without the engine starting.

You’ve “unplugged the spark retard connector”. What is that? Are you talking about the knock sensor or the ECU controlling wire to the distributor?

lakeffect2

to DZcode, If you'd be so kind as to check your bin file for me on something.

In the Flags/Switches section on my bin file, I'm showing 8 entries labeled for "Switch 16" from "bit 7" down to "bit 0" Bit 4 specifically says "VATS". All of the entries have a box marked "set" that can be checked off. None of them are checked. They are all empty.

In the Flags/ switches section of your bin, Which ones are checked and which are blank?

What also bothers me to no end is the inability for my timing gun to flash on any wire. I'll try swapping out a 6mm wire from an old set to be if it flashes or if I STILLGOTNADA.

I found the S_Aujp _CCP file, since my system is still using the purge canister. I remember having to import the other definitions somehow, but can't remember the sequence from unzipping to have it appear in Tunerpro. The program keeps shutting down instead. (nothing is ever easy)


Thanks for the response.

RednGold86Z

iTrader: (1)

22/32 is less than one, so it's a reduction. The cranking PWs DON'T use the injector flow rate, so changing that or VE won't matter. But, I was assuming it was a stock calibration.

You might be fighting with Alvin's tune, since there's a chance that he re-arranged it so that it coulnd't be copies so easily. To check, try a stock bin file, and disable VATS.

Also, try the clear flood mode by holding the throttle wide open. If it doesn't fire then (after a flood), re-check spark. If sparking well, re-check firing order (18436572, number one on driver's side, number one on cap should be pointing towards cylinder one, rotor should point to number one with #1 cylinder on compression stroke - pull a plug and rotate engine slowly, with coil and injectors disconnected and feel for compression with a finger).

Also, make sure you're programming things right. Might be trying to run in limp mode.

lakeffect2

That's the odd thing about this whole engine. Do others find it difficult to get timing lights to work with 8.8mm Acell wires? It seems strange that I can get a spark plug tester light to go off, but can't energize a timing light to save my ... with a remote mounted HEI coil. It's remote in the sense that it's not in the cap, but mounted behind the 1-3-5-7 bank on an aluminum plate that's bolted to the head and the head is grounded to the chassis.

I had dripping wet plugs last year with a stock bin, which is why I went to the custom chip as a baseline. It is visibly different than an AUJP as having the area from 400-800rpm and 10-40kps as highly reduced (or "scooped out" as I call it) to fight that issue. The trick is I'm never getting to 400-800 rpm as I can't get more than I few cylinders to fire, then fewer, then none, with an appropriate smell of raw gas.

RednGold86Z

iTrader: (1)

Have you had your injectors flow tested? Maybe try a fuel pressure leak down test with a fuel pressure gauge. If it holds pressure at key off, look at spark again. If it loses pressure, clamp the return line, and try again. If still loses pressure, clamp the feed line after pressure builds up. If still losing pressure, your injectors or FPR diaphram are leaking.

A bad ignition module might cause this problem too, but it may just be severely out of time.

lakeffect2

The injectors are brand new Accel 32 pounders. No, they have not been flowed. If by ignition module you are reffering to the silver unit inside the distributor under the cap on the aluminum base plate, the whole distribuor is also brand new.

RFmaster

Lakeeffect

Get the old spark tester from auto parts store just to see if you are getting spark out. If there is no spark check your B+ feeding your external coil (12 Ga pink wire). Second, make sure that ECM is getting refernce pulse from distributor pin C of EST module (circuit 430 ppl/wht wire). Reference CKT 430 provides cranckshaft RPM information to ECM. CKT 453 blk/red provides reference ground back to ECM. If this circuit is open - it may lead to no spark condition.

//RF

91L98Z28

here is my opinions on what I'd do.

#1 put a cheapy plug wire on #1, and get your distributor set properly, to eliminate this problem.

#2 if you have a stock wimpy starter, get a nice gear reduction starter and a good beefy battery like an optima yellow top. The faster you spin the engine over, the more chamber pressure you're going to get and it will be more likely to light off.

#3 teaspoon or so of oil down each plug hole to make sure the rings are holding compression (rings NEED a tad bit of oil to work)

#4 go to a stock AUJP or SAUJP modified only for your displacement and injector size.

lakeffect2

Thanks for all the ideas and thoughts guys. Hopefully after work tonight I'll be able to try the ideas and tests out.

DZcode

My 406 BIN has all the VATS blocks de-selected. S_AUJP_V3 must have come that way except for Bit 4, which I know I de-selected to get the engine to start.

I have
Cylinder number: 0.00
Cylinder volume: 829.60
Injector flow rate 32.98 - 30# Ford red top injectors rated at 39.5lbs fuel pressure flow 31.89lbs when rated at 42lbs fuel pressure. Can’t remember how I picked 32.98lbs, but numerical inputs are sometimes rounded due to mathematical limitations of the program. Other folks with 406s used 32lbs in this field with Ford injectors.

Do you know if you are in “limp home mode” when you turn on the key? I mistakenly started with a V6 memcal and as soon as I turned the key, the electric cooling fan would come on (limp home mode). Limp home also provides a very rich mixture, which might explain your wet plugs.

(A little off subject.)
You said your lower fuel table entries are all less than 30. I’ve attached a jpg screen shot of my lower table that I reduced by 10% across the board. My engine has only been started and broken in for 20-30 minutes at about 2000-2200 rpm/40-50 kpa. So know I realize I wasn't even in the lower table during break-in. I have not tuned this engine. (Don’t forget, the old upper table is no longer used in this BIN.)

Z69

I know of a 383 with an XFI 236/242 and a MR that started up with stock crank fuel tables, 30lb inj, and a table based on 33 to 44 in the 400 row.

Mulitply your crank PW table by 22/32 and use the axcn Crank Pulse Mult. vs Reference Pulses 1-24 table.
I think I used axcn. You'll know since it's very different fromp AUJP.
Multiply a stock lower table by .85 and start with it.
Then make the VE 400 row go from 20kpa/36 to 100kap/47 and smooth the table out keeping the 1600 row the same.
Set your idle o2 constants to ~450/500. -See the stickie if you don't get this one-
Set your minimum blm to 96. -GM used this in the AXCN bin so don't worry about it for now.
A 14.3 stoich setting was used for the above due to 10% ethanol in the gas being used in the base combo for these numbers.
W/O the 10% you should still be close when used with 14.7 stoich constant.


This will give you a good starting point to tune for 128/128 with your setup.

Set your harmonic damper to 8 or 10 degrees on the pointer and set the bin to this number.
Line #1 on the dist cap up with the rotor dead center. You will be very close to the number you used.

- Plenty of posts on the FMS's flowing 30 not 32.-

lakeffect2

Thanks guys for ALL the thoughts info and ideas.

I bought a thinner wire for plug #1 today. Its about 6.5mm thick. My first step is to see if I get the timing light to visibly flash or not with this wire in use. That will support or eliminate the "THICK WIRE THEORY" and help to see where my base timing is at, if it's there at all, and if ignition is the true source of the problem.

I'll get back to you all after the trial.

Thanks again.

lakeffect2

First off, my apologies for starting a thread in the DIY PROM section that now really seems best related to ignition and wiring.

OK, well the verdict is that there is an inconsistant spark available.

After hooking up the "thin" wire to plug #1. I had pulled the fuel relay as well to prevent flooding.

I was getting some signal, enough to get the timing light to show me that I was still very advanced on the timing, about 30 degrees off. Damn, it sounded like the beast wanted to fire up! I had I started to bring the distributor around close to ten degrees headed to 8, maybe 6 and the timing light flash disappeared again. No amount of wiggling and jiggling of plug wires or coil to cap wire brought it back again.

I seem to have an electrical gremlin that is upstream of the plug wires. At least that's my uneducated guess.

As long as I have your help and approval, I'll stay at this one thread till it gets resolved, rather than start multiple threads on it. We 'll bet back to programming issues soon , I'm sure.

91L98Z28

suggest replacement of the ignition module, or at least checking it for the thermal compound that helps it sink heat to the dist. body.

accel electronics are not exactly the most reliable, you might consider trying a stock GM dist./module/coil. I've personally seen several accel coils and modules (especially the coils) fail.

might want to consider re-priming the engine with oil (using modified distributor to run the oil pump or a commercial accesstory to do the same) driven by beefy 1/2" drill. If you really have been trying to start it for months, you may even want to consider dropping the oil pan and checking out the bearings. tons of cranking with no fire has been explained to me as a "no-no".

lakeffect2

I've been trying unsuccessfully to fire up my TPI transplant for a few months, tracking down what now seems to be whittled down to an electrical gremlin.

Oddly, something weird happened last night, but it was already late and I didn't have time to explore it. I was using the Factory Service Manual, and running down a trouble shooting flow chart for spark/no spark.

There was a pigtail on a wire off the two wire harness from the coil to the distributor ignition module. At first, thought it was the white Tachometer feed but realized later it was off of the other side of the coil. It was the white wire going to the "C" terminal of the two wire connector plug on the distributor ignition module.

I accidentally grounded it while turning the engine over with the bump starter and the sucker fired up for a few seconds. Since it scared the snot out of me, (Now there's a long green trail on the valve cover), I yanked the wire off quickly.

There was a big spark firing off it when I yanked it. I don't know WHY it fired up with that wire attached to ground. Maybe a bad pigtail to the module that needs to be replaced, or I inadvertently bypassed a circuit that's bad, like the Distributor Ignition Module itself.

Gotta figure that out. I'm afraid of leaving it attached and grounded for fear of what it's NOT suppose to be doing, and frying out in the process...


I seem to be onto something here, but 'm too inexperienced to know what I've found yet. Any ideas as to what happened, or why it happened?
And how to fix it?

RFmaster

Lake

The white wire, which is connected to pig tail (gray connector PIN A), is a negative side of the primary coil. This pig tail is used for Tachometer connection and is ‘floating’ above ground voltage vise. There is one more connection to the negative side of primary coil. Second connection is Pin A of the black connector which connects to Pin B of the HEI module via white wire. Disconnect at distributor, set DVM to Ohm, check for continuity to Pig Tail – should be near 0 Ohms from Pin B (it is also labeled as C on the plastic module) all the way to pig tail. If it is open – you found your gremlin. Otherwise it is ignition module inside distributor not pulling C line low enough to ground.

//RF

lakeffect2

Am I pulling the two wire harness off the coil from the distributor but leaving it connected to the coil? Do you mean continuity THROUGH or TO the pigtail (from where/) Or just measuring the short white white wire for a break in continuity?

Thanks for the help. So why did it start when the wire was grounded? what was enabled or bypassed?

RFmaster

Lake

With ignition OFF, remove the two wire harness at the distributor. Measure resistance between disconnected connector (white wire) to the Tach Pig tail - this should near 0 Ohms. Wiggle wires see if you have a broken wire, etc

The white wire is a switched output from the HEI module. When distributor shaft rotates the trigger coil generates a small trigger signal which is coupled to the two terminal connector (labeled N P). The HEI module amplifies, shapes and controls timing of this pulse before sending to the coil – C terminal. The C terminal pulls + 12Volts floating at the negative terminal of the coil to ground. When that happens the secondary winding generates high voltage (30 KVolts +) to fire spark plugs.

When you grounded the Tach terminal you have powered the secondary in 100 duty cycle mode. Coil operating in 100 duty mode will overheat and fail!

Looks like you have trigger issues, coil is OK. The distributor must be able to pull down signal (on the C , white wire) to fire the coil.

//RF

lakeffect2

Thanks for the quick return on the explanation. I should get a chance to play with it later tonight after work.

I mentioned originally that the loose flying pigtail was a tach lead off of the gray plug , attached to the white wire. It was actually attached to the white wire off the black plug. From the schematic, it looks as either white wire would supply the same signal to the tach.

When I was doing the testing the other night, the FSM said to check that I had at least 10 volts while cranking , on both pink and white wires to the 2 wire harness. The white was slightly under at 9.7, and pink was 10.4. Since 9.7 was so close to 10, I was wondering if if that was really case for concern. In inspection of the harness after removal of the convoluted tubing, it was pretty ratty. I've got a new one coming from the dealer, and if I need a module,(sounds like I will) those are available from the Autozone, NAPA and Advance anytime.

For the cost of a module, does it sound reasonable to chuck a new one in while I'm at it as a form of future insurance?

RFmaster

Hey Lake

I think we are getting very close. Question - when you measured voltages on ‘+’ and ‘C’ lines were you cranking your engine? If so voltage difference between ‘+” and ‘C’ wire makes sense.
Inside distributor HEI module a powerful switching transistor (or most likely push pull pair) pulls ‘C’ wire circuit just above ground. If it is a bipolar transistor then voltage on ‘C’ during spark plug firing will be about 0.7 Vdc - maybe a bit higher. Note that this circuit relies on good ground path between distributor and engine block! If you have additional resistive losses due to oil, dirt, loose distributor clamp, or bad grounding of the HEI module inside distributor this will result in firing voltage that will never go low enough to fire-up ignition coil!
Typical ignition coil primary windings have very low impedance – around 0.4 Ohms so it takes a bit of current to saturate ignition coil (about 30 Amps!) Coincidently, any ground side losses from HEI module to ground will not allow for ‘C’ go low enough and thus preventing coil from being fully saturated. This will result in weak or no spark condition.
The best way to check ‘C’ voltage with oscilloscope. Ideal waveform is shown in attached figure.

DVM uses averaging and therefore you are unlikely to see pulses. There are DVM’s that have Oscilloscope functionality, but they are pricey.

//RF

lakeffect2

RF, yes I was cranking at the time of the voltage measurements of 10.4 and 9.7 on the pins.

"Note that this circuit relies on good ground path between distributor and engine block!"

Keeping in mind there's a gasket between the manifold and the flat base of the distributor, I would think there is sufficent contact at the clamp, but who knows. If it's clear acrylic coated to keep it shiny, there it's conceivable the plastic could form an insulator to grounding. It wouldn't take much to sand the mating surface of the clamp to insure it's actually metal to metal.

Measured impedeance on the coil was 0.3 ohms. Nice chart... Thanks

I'll also concentrate on ground path cleanup while I'm waiting for the harness to come in.

lakeffect2

No suprise yet...

I receieved the new HEI coil to module harness, and popped it on last night.

No change, not firing up.

I grabbed a new Ignition Module this morning but doubt I'll have time to put in in before Saturday night.

So far everything but the module is brand new. This was a "new" distributor, and it's hard to imagin eit would fail with zero miles on it. More likely I bought a rebuilt or refurbished unit, and the old moduole was still there.


If I goober up the bottom of the module with di-electric silicone paste, I know I'm helping to transfer heat out of the module.

BUT AM I HURTING GROUNDING?

Does the silicone paste do both?

Am I better off providing a secondary wire path to promote grounding of the unit to the base? This is the last time I want to open this thing up for a few years!

RFmaster

Lake

In electronics business silicone paste (now days ) is avoided whenever possible! Resistivity can very significantly from one manufacturer to another and white stuff have a shelf life. We keep our silicone heat compound in the refrigerator to extend its shelf life. Use very liitle of this stuff, clean old SI before applying new.
Inside small hat distributor there are two modules that can give us grief: the 8-pin HEI module and magnetic reluctor (aka pick up coil). GM HEI module uses zero voltage crossing circuit on pins P/N to determine TDC from distributor shaft position. 8-pin HEI module is a slick design, but we should know the following:
Tachometer signal is pin R
Ignition advance control signal is pin E
Override (during cranking) signal is pin B
Ground is provided via two mounting holes to distributor case
Ignition supply is provided at Pin ‘+’
Primary Coil windings output Pin ‘C’

Startup mode
During engine start up engine RPM are typically below the run threshold of 400 RPM, sensing that the ECM will hold the module's bypass voltage at Pin B low (0 volts) to energize HEI ignition module. In the bypass mode for every reluctor pulse, the coil is energized. In this mode, the engine is running on the timing advance that is built into the ignition module. No timing correction is provided by ECM. If the switching transistor, in the module, is blown or if emitter is not grounded ignition coil will never be energized.

My guess – check mounting screws for contact and check Pin C voltage for jumping during engine cranking – Having O-scope would be nice.

Check reluctor winding for open or a bad connection at P/N connector.

//RF

lakeffect2

RF, In this one thread you've given a semester's worth of education to me. I'm glad you said to keep the silicone to a minimum, as I was going to really goober that puppy up. I'll make sure the mating surface is cleaned up, and the studs are flat. (add your own joke here)

Thanks for the feedback. I should get to this on Saturday evening and will post results. Maybe I can get finnaly back to learning how to datalog soon.

vernw

iTrader: (2)

I also would not rule out the possibility that your ECM is some how toasted or not "re-manned" correctly. I've got TWO of the 730's in my garage I had picked up as spares. One works great with a burned chip but not the Ostrich emulator I use. The other runs just fine with chips, but will not datalog. I don't think the ALDL interface is very stringently tested as part of the re-man process. YMMV, of course, that's just what I've run into personally.

lakeffect2

I came up with another possible avenue to research. There is an after market security system in the vehicle, (not VATS) which might be interfering. I' m in the middle of a rough schedule this week. I will trace the primary lead from the distributor, the thick pink wire, and follow it back to the ignition switch. At this point, I'd be willing to place bets that it runs to the security system first, amd is not fully disabled as i thought. Every ignition part has been part is replaced, including the module,yet it still doesn't fire up. NOTHING, not even a hint of spark.

A security system might might be a cause if it wasn't diabled properly. I just found the wiring diagram on the internet and downloaded it. I'll take the pink wire directly to the switch if it isn't going there already, and try again.

Man, I can't tell you how frustrating this has all been!

RednGold86Z

iTrader: (1)

Had that happen on my 86Z Lg4 car when my dad and I rebuilt (uber cheaply) the engine. Saw it has some box wired in under the dash and it was for some ignition disable. Didn't know how to remove it, but tried, and failed. Put it back in, and it's probably still in there today (in storage now, still with a broken window from some jerkoff's who took my stuff, after my stupid co-workers parked my car outside an industrial (dark at night) area, AND put all my expensive parts in there - heads, intake, injectors... gone).

RFmaster

Hey Lakeeffect2

Did you get Shammoo going???

//RF

lakeffect2

Finally getting back to work on the beast after a few rough weeks of working two jobs and playing in a band. I've printed out the last seversal respones on timing pulse issues and will have at it this afternoon 06/23/07.

lakeffect2

From that last post, it's now one year later, and the vehicle has still never fired up. I recently replaced the whole Distributor assembly with a new Accel unit. I think we figured out the lack of pulse as caused by the Reluctance coil being defective, and not providing any pulse for anything down stream of it. My Son came home from Florida and we'll try to work on it together while he's home.

RFmaster

Lake
You can check reluctor coil resistance with DVM. Disconnect 2 pin connector from ICM and measure coil resistance. Expect 500 to 1500 Ohm range. Beside coil check make sure that all magnets are in place - broken magnet will cause the same no pulse condition. If you have distributor already out of the car you can slowly rotate dizy shaft while observing DVM - you should see resistance values change as moving magnets induce current in the reluctor coil.

//RF