Destructive099

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-1987 Iroc-Z camaro
-5 speed manual
-355 CI with Holley Stealth Ram intake and 58mm Holley Throttle body
-30lbs /hr Ford SVO injectors
-Holley Fuel Pump 255ltrs per hour
-AFR 195cc Heads with 2.02 1.6 valves & 1.5 Rocker Arms
-Comp Cams CS NR276HR-113 Camshaft specs are
- ADV DUR: 276 288
- DUR @ .050 224 236
- Valve Lift: .502 .520
- Lobe Sep: 113.0
-MSD Billet Distributer / MSD 8226 Blaster Coil
-ECM- 1227165 (updated bin file to $6E and using a 89 corvette manual bin AYPY to be exact off tuner pro's site) *EGR / VATS Disabled with injectors single and double fire changed to 30 lbs/hr
-Base timing currently set to 6 degrees
-Fuel PSI is at 40

The problem im having is the car runs quite rough and very rich judging from the smell of gas coming from exhaust, and is trowing code 64 (EGR Solinoid), 54 (Fuel pump voltage), 62 (Transmission ground), 63 (EGR). EGR was disabled in the new $6E file i uploaded by the means of setting EGR Enable if TPS > X & EGR Duty Cycle!=0 and the one below it to 99 (The highest Setting), Disable EGR if MAT < X set to max setting of 300, and the (EGR Duty Cycle vs. LV8 and RPM) table had all its values turned to 0. Now my question is why is egr still throwing codes, whats the code 54 (Fuel pump voltage) exactly mean, and is the 30 lbs per hour injectors just to big for my setup or should I be using a different bin or be changing some settings?

RednGold86Z

iTrader: (1)

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/

Go down to find AUJS or APYS, and add your changes to one of those files. Otherwise, you'll be changing a lot of switches in the Vette bin to get things right.

For EGR, just change the enable/disable temp for now.

Did you set the base timing? Do that before judging rich or lean. Also, if it's a new motor, are the rings seated yet?

Not sure on the fuel pump voltage, or transmission ground. Could be some difference between Vette and F-body. Could be you wire harness.

Destructive099

Ill have to try those bins tommarow, as for the engine running rich the reason for that statement is I can see a slight haze of smoke coming out exhaust and a destinct smell of unburnt gas is present, if I stick my fingers in the tail pipe I can see theirs a lot of carbon. The engine is new and I dont have any emission systems present or CAT however the vapor canister is still present and maybe it be a good idea to add the pvc system back on as well. Guess the big question in my mind is did I go alittle over kill with 30 lb / hr injectors where I should have bought 24lbs

Jaxom

I don't think the injectors are too outrageous, a little headroom with the fuel availability is always good...better to have too much injector than not enough. I do think the 58mm TB is overkill though. You'll have to add some delta-TPS AE to make up for the added airflow at low throttle angles, and it's probably gonna make part-throttle driving a little touchy. I made the same mistake and now I sometimes have trouble keeping traction on slow launches in traffic...it doesn't make the fuzz happy when my only explanation is "I can't help it."

PCV is a good thing to have on a street engine. It doesn't hurt your power at all, as there is almost no flow through the PCV at WOT, and it helps keep some of the nastiness out of the oiling system. You should disable canister purge while tuning as it can mess with the O2 readings, but it's also a good thing to have active in a street car.

I'm guessing this is your first tuning project. You have a steep learning curve ahead of you.....the airflow characteristics of the engine have been totally changed due to the different heads, cam, and intake so the factory tune you're starting with is probably only vaguely close to what the engine needs. Tuning a modded motor is much harder than tuning a near-stock one. You're starting off right by trying to get the DTC issues and the basic settings right before you even begin fuel and spark tuning though. Do lots of searches and read, read, read.

RednGold86Z

iTrader: (1)

Have you gotten into closed loop yet? That'll tell you for sure if what you're smelling and seeing is rich carbon or oil carbon + lean misfire. You really need to get the rings seated before putzing around too much though. Best idea would be to get a wideband in there to see if all is well, then give it some medium load and high RPM, then high load and high RPM to seat the rings. Flush the oil after 50 miles or so. Hope you're not using expensive and slick synthetic yet.

30's will work fine, but may be touchy in closed loop idle (but not the sole fault of the injectors). As long as you get the chip right, you can use a variety of injector. With your setup, I would have probably tried 30's first. There's a decent amount of power in your combination - like 430hp as a rough guess.

You need to really make sure the roughness is not misfire, though. Disconnect injectors one at a time (at warm idle, with IAC disconnected), and see if any cylinders don't respond (spark or fuel misfire), or weakly respond (such as valves not adjusted correctly). Pull plugs to see what's up, too.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT PLUGS! AFRs require a long threaded plug. Some posts recently discuss it, and one in particular on the alternative EFI board.

Good Luck!

ULTM8Z

Here's what AFR recommends for their 195's:

AC FR3LS or 41629

What's the issue? These don't work properly?
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Watch your BLM's as you do this. It'll be telling. Don't know if you have O2's on both sides though...

I have two O2's, so I can switch the ECM to either driver or passenger side for diagnostics.

RednGold86Z

iTrader: (1)

Some people didn't notice the AFR plugs are longer than a standard SBC plug, and used the short thread ones, and got all sorts of issues from that. Idle misfires, BLMs all over the place, lower power, misfires in general.

ULTM8Z

I guess I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about. Aren't FR3LS's standard SBC spark plugs? That's what comes standard on the ZZ4's.

AFR recommends the same plug for the 180's I'm running and I know my plugs are the same length as the FR3LS. Now you have me wondering....

69 Ghost

iTrader: (1)

Had the same issue with the recommended plugs. They are typically not available at your local store without ordering them. After a lot of searching and crossreferencing I went with AC Delco Rapidfire 5's. The plugs are basically the same as a 91 Vette. If you go to the accel page you can do a pretty good cross-reference from there.

Destructive099

To answer your question above im running NGK BKR6E which I believe are the equivelent to the recommended ones AFR presented. After pulling the plugs I can indeed tell shes running quite rich right now as the plugs are completely black with carbon maybe its time to change the MAF tables and Scalers as well as the Spark advance tables to 350 CI AUJM settings, from the 305 (APYS) settings I have present or maybe lower fuel psi im currently at 40 psi with 30 lbs injectors? Im also having a problem with fan 1 running constently I know theirs a switch or flag that needs to be set however I cant find it with many attempts.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The NGK BKR6E is the proper design plug (3/4" reach, 14mm, gasket seat). I did not check the heat range.

As 69 Ghost & Ultm8z mentioned, the AFR heads (and a bunch of others) use this same plug format. It is the same as the ZZ4 and '89-'91 Corvette use. In the Autolite line the 3926 is stock for the Corvette. The 3924 is a colder plug and is also readily available. For some reason I think the Sy/Ty's use the 3924.

RBob.

DZcode

Fan running constantly and very rich mixture, sounds like you’re in limp home mode. Not sure if any of those error codes would put you in that mode.

ULTM8Z

Which is what I'm running...

Destructive099

Might be a stupid question but how do I get it out of limp home mode ?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The first check to make is with the SES light. Every time you do a key-on look for the blink.

After the key has been off for at least 10 seconds, watch the SES at key-on, engine-off.

The SES will come on, blink off, then come on solid. The blink off must occur. Otherwise the ECM is in limp mode.

If it is in limp mode, check the orientation of the EPROM, along with checking that it has been properly programmed.

RBob.

RednGold86Z

iTrader: (1)

The fan coming on would also be because of the corvette bin. They use the opposite logic for the fan relay. That's another reason to switch to F-body bins.

Destructive099

Well im still up in the guarge trying to get this to work, seems it stays in limp mode with the F body bins (AUJS, and APYS) and im unable to data log with my scanner or check codes however when I use the prominator and switch to the setting with the corvette bin I can data log and check codes

EDIT: Got it working now had to disable check sum with the AA setting cars giving 2 codes now and runs decent the blm is 158 and seems my MAF sensor is bad for the reason im seeing code 33 keep coming up. 2nd code I believe is from installing the prominator or flipping bins its code 51 and says its a PROM ERROR.