I've got an 88 TBI Camaro with a Vortec 350 and a ZZ4 cam. I've got the EBL and an LM-1. I had a problem with leaking injectors and gas getting into the crankcase. I have since rectified this problem but now my LM-1 doesn't seem to be functioning properly. It reads fine for about 12 to 13 minutes of running time then the readings go off the charts but the car keeps running fine. It gives me AFR's between 14.0 and 15.0 at idle and then at the 12 minute mark of running time it slowly starts giving me readings of 19.0 then 20.0 to 30.0 and even 40.0 and 50.0 and stays there. I've re-calibrated it several times but it still does the same thing. I can come back the following day without re-calibrating and reads fine for 12 minutes. It's doing the exact same thing consistently. I've got another sensor on order but I'm not exactly sure if that's the problem. I talked to the guys I purchased it from and they deemed it odd as well. They said that the sensors don't normally go bad. They said it's possibly the controller itself. I've contacted Innovate by e-mail and by phone but haven't received a return e-mail or a call back. I've checked their forum but can't seem to find the answer to the problem I'm experiencing. Has anyone on here experienced this with an LM-1 or any other wideband controller for that matter? I'm as confused as a baby racoon on this one. If any one knows anything about this problem I would appreciate any help you all could give me. I'm sorry if it's in the wrong place but I figured since most people that are in the DIY prom section have wideband O2 controllers.

Thanks,

Gene

 

I own an LM1. I would suggest the LC1 aka sensor is toast. I would however try to "reboot" or reconfiguer or recalibrate it. In instruction manual it explains. Like you did day one. Odds are it wont help. You will need to replace unfortunately. Be aware the sensor is available at lower cost thru a parts house.

now i left one on for 36 hours and that killed it. also i started a cold car on hot sensor and that too will kill it. starting a hot engine with unit on will send voltage spikes and that too is not a good idea. also cannot run car with sensor installed unheated or off. proper procedure is turn unit on immediately after engine has started. mine is wired permanently so as to do so. i cant forget now.

i ran the new sensor all last season with no issues.

 

Thanks for the response. I've got mine wired permanently on the car as well because I knew I wasn't going to use it for another vehicle. I've done a sensor re-calibration but haven't done a sensor heater re-calibration. I'll perform both on the cold sensor this evening and see what happens. The people I purchased it from are going to set a sensor aside for me when they come in but if this works then I won't have to purchase one. If not then I'll go ahead and purchase a new sensor. Thanks again.

Gene

 

How did you wire it to come on? Triggered by oil pressure switch?

 

I wired mine to radio power. On most GM's, radio power is off during cranking and on in run. A volt meter will easily verify your particular vehicle. HTH

 

Great idea.

Thanks

 

I have an LC-1 and the sensor needs to be romved during free air calibration or the car can't have been run for several hours if you want to leave it installed. Mine is also permanently installed and used the radio output.
Also do you have the simulated output programmed correctly? IIRC, the factory default was opposite of the input the ECM was looking for (low/high voltage at lean/rich).

 

A place called Fuel Injection Specialties in San Antonio, Tx. did the install for me so I have no idea how they wired it. It worked flawlessly until a couple of weeks ago. Also, I performed a heater calibration and free air calibration on the cold sensor last night. It worked great for 15 minutes and then started giving me AFR readings in the 30's and 40's. I guess I'm going to have to purchase a new sensor and hope that solves it. As far as the outputs I just followed RBob's instructions. I connected the second output of the LM-1 to channel 1 of the EBL and programmed for 0-5 volts for 10-20 AFR. I also left the simulated narrow band output unconnected. As I said, it worked flawlessly until a couple of weeks ago. Thanks again for the help.

Gene

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the ECM looking for a value between 0 and 1 volt (narrow band)? When you are programming, shouldn't 14.7 AFR value at .450mV?

 

"I recommend that the WB output be programmed to the 0-5 V for 10:1 to 20:1 output. The LM1 programming may need to be changed for this output. Also, check that the simulated NB output isn't connected to the EBL setup."

I have no idea but the previous quote is what Rbob recommended.

Thanks,

Gene

 

Since I'm using a stock tune and ECM (just got my MegaSquirt today ) I used the values I mentioned and the car runs fine.
EDIT: And the LC1 works fine.

 

The ECM is looking for that value from a NB sensor. Or a simulated NB sensor. This is only required to run closed loop fueling.

In Gene's case the WB AFR is being data logged. The AFR is going to the data log and the WUD. The EBL setup has 8 analog data logging channels.

RBob.

 

I have no doubt the values you mentioned are correct and I have no doubt your car and LC1 work fine. But I'm using the EBL and the wideband O2 so I'm logging the wideband output. Not the narrow band. And as RBob mentioned in the previous post, this is done in open loop.

Thanks,

Gene

 

Sorry, yes I realized that after RBob posted (and I re-read post #1). Just didn't want to clutter your thread after I realized you are running EBL.

 

The new sensor finally came in and I picked it up yesterday. So last night I installed the new sensor, performed all the calibrations and it's functioning properly. No more erroneous readings after 15 minutes of run time. I drove the car around for over an hour last night and it seems to be logging the AFR fine now. Thanks to all who chimed in.

Gene

 

RBob.

 

Right on! I was thinking about your thread last night and was wondering what happened.