Hi. I´m planning to start tuning with TunerPro RT. I have the 749 ecm modified to run my 170lb low ohm injectors and ethanol. I have a startup bin but i was wondering what xdf. file is the best to go with? I have the 58_2&3bar file loaded right now. I was planning to start logging with the Winaldl then go from there. But until i start i just want to make sure that the xdf is OK to use.

The engine is a 355 Csb w, Procharger D1sc. 210cc Kenny duttweiler heads, 9.0:1 cr. The Cam is a solid roller Dur@.050- In: 255/ ex: 262. Lift: .625. Fully ported Lt1 intake, Twin 58mm TB, Hooker super comp, headers. No EGR, no Cats. Twin 3" exhaust and X-pipe. Twin Aeromotive A1000 and a Y-coupling, Aeromotive adj, fuel reg. 50Psi fuel pressure. Rev limit set to: 8000rpm on the Msd.

I don´t have any bigger experiance on tuning the ecm, so i will just go with the basics and try to tune a good BLM, not so rough timing, and as close to the Ethanol AFR on the Innovate LM-1 Wb lambda possible. Will my software work to do this? Is there anything i should be aware of? Other than try to not blow the engine to pieces


Thanks.

/Svante.

 

Do some research on what the stoichiometric ratio is for your fuel.
The stoich constant will need to be changed for you to have any hope of CL with that cam.
Best would be to go OL and tune with the WB to the correct afr.

 

I was thinking of something like that. Ethanol has the stoichiometric ratio of 9.0:1. Can i just adjust the VE table until i get as close as possible? Do you have any tips about the .XDF file? I can´t set the VE-tables or timing tables to more than 4800r/pm.. That does´nt feel safe when the engine is built and going to rev 8000r/pm.

/Svante.

 

Tjenis.......

There are a few ways to tune above 4800rpm

I dont have the same xdf file as you so the names may not be the same....

SA
- SA adder Deg/1k rpm (adds x deg every 1000rpm)
- PE spark Advance

Fuel
- Ve adder vs rpm
- PE AFR vs rpm
- Boost multiplier adds fuel vs MAP I guess you'll need the 3bar bin with your setup....

/N.

 

Tja..

Allright, but will i really need the 3bar bin with this Procharger? Apperantly the D1 will produce only around 13-14Psi on my motor, and thats where it ends, and gives the maximum amount of air. The impeller speed is calculated 64000r/pm@8000 on the crank now so i´m already pushing it past the limit . It must be enough with the 2bar sensor until i get my hands on a bigger blower or turbos ......

Is there any other def file i can use along with the bin file? That allows more tuning on the higher rpm´s? Does tunercat have one?

Thanks.

/Svante.

 

No other xdf file or tunercat file, the $59code may be an option when its realesed.

Start tune idle and part throttle drive this weekend if you get the ECM's.......

/N.

 

Allright, I´ll do that. Not higher than around 4000r/pm´s then

Thanks!

/Svante.

 

58_RR_V14 or some such on Moates.

 

Thanks.

I´ll try that. Is there any changes need to be done when using this Def file on an V8?

/Svante.

 

Another really good 59 XDF and ADS can be found here (left-hand side of page):

NWSTP

 

I only see a 58 Xdf.. I got i allready. Feels like the 58_RR_V14 makes more sense!

/Svante.

 

I´LL GIVE UP!!! This S*cks.... The car does´nt run better at all, not wery well spent money i have to say. My problem is... I keep flooding the engine so much that i have to change the engine oil to keep the bearings from breaking. I keep flood ethanol in my oil.. So you can guess how rich it´s going! I have changed all the VE tables to 2 :/ and there is no difference. The car can run on idle for about 2-3MINUTES without the fuelpumps enabled. The AFR reads 9,3-10 and when i plug in the pumps the engine stops. Probably because it get´s so much fuel so it can´t ignite. I´m so sick and tired of this crap, changing the oil. Try to tune.. It does´nt work.. Change the oil again, and just see the money run away. It´s a brand new motor so i don´t like hurting it like this at all. What am i doing wrong? What is wrong? Someone please tell me. I Can´t se any tables either because the ALDL don´t work. I only got my WB sensor to adjust on.

/Svante.

 

Yes, you need to change the cylinder select. It sounds like you're trying to run before you've learned to crawl. Why are you running ethonol before you even have the engine running correctly? How much reading have you done on this forum?

 

Yeah, you are going to have a tough time tuning if this is your first engine to tune. Is that a 94-95 LT1 intake? If so then you are using 8 170lb/hr injectors. That is a huge amount of fuel. I don't see it ever working with the 749 and $58 double fire code. It may work for you, but I know I could never get that thing tuned right at idle or part throttle with $58 and 170lb/hr injectors.


For Starters:
1) don't use the $58 code to break in the engine, use the $8D code
2) Make sure you have the bin set for 8 cylinders
3) Change the BPC table (injector constant)
3) Change the min. BPW and async BPW values so you don't enter quasi-fueling
4) Remove about 40% of fuel (VE) from the lower VE table for both closed throttle and open throttle.

EDIT: The stock $58 code runs out of wind at 6400 RPM. You need to do some custom coding to get to 8000 RPM. That engine will need VE and spark tuning above 6400 RPM

 

Thanks. Thats what i needed to hear. I still have the 730 ecm and Lucas 42lb injectors on the shelf. I´ll think i break in the engine with those instead of the 170lb/s. I have been thinking and came up to that i´ll only use these ecm´s to break in the engine. When it´s time to tune and drive the car, the Autronic Sm4 will have to do the work. My friend runs it in his Nissan and it´s wonderful. Probably worth the money a lot more than buying modified Gm ecm´s all around the place.!

Thanks anyways!!

/Svante.

 

1. Make sure you can scan the car, maybe some input from a sensor is wrong.
2. Change back to the 730 ECM and 38lbs injectors.
3. Change the bin I sent you to correct inj size or email me and I'll do it.
4. try it and logg the results.

/N.

 

Do what gta324 said and put the 730 ECM with $8D and the smaller injectors in it. It should work great for the break in. I would also set the rev limiter to something low like 4500 RPM in case you get the urge to see how it pulls. That will kill the spark before you run out of fuel. Check the injector BPWs and increase the rev limit if the injector duty cycles are decent.