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Removing smog pump,,,effects on ECM

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Old 01-05-2001, 02:34 PM
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Car: '92 RS
Engine: In pieces
Transmission: Built 4L60
Removing smog pump,,,effects on ECM

I want to remove all smog and emissions things from my engine. There are 3 inputs to the computer that I am aware of that I will have to disconnect.
1. EGR positioin sensor
2. (2) other plugs on the AIR diverter valve that comes up from the smog pump.

My question is Other than isabling the code 32 is there any thing else that I will need to change or codes that i will need to mask so that my SES light isn't always coming on? Thanks for your help

Later,
Lars

------------------
'92 RS 305 TBI
K&N Open Element
Ultimate TBI mod's (thanks Pablo)
Cam[.442"/.465"] x 218*/224* @ .050", 10:1 Hypereutectic Pistons
Performer Manifold
Shift Kit, Corvette servo,
and 2800 Stall Trans Specialties Converter,
Gutted Cat, IAT Resistor
MSD Blaster Coil, Accel Cap and Rotor
Old 01-05-2001, 03:10 PM
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Car: An Ol Buick
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Originally posted by lars92RS:
I want to remove all smog and emissions things from my engine. There are 3 inputs to the computer that I am aware of that I will have to disconnect.
1. EGR positioin sensor
2. (2) other plugs on the AIR diverter valve that comes up from the smog pump.
My question is Other than isabling the code 32 is there any thing else that I will need to change or codes that i will need to mask so that my SES light isn't always coming on? Thanks for your help
Later,
Lars

The best way to disable anything is setting one of the enables to a ridiculous entry. Like setting the EGR enable temp to 255 and then also disabling the flag.
Another *justification* for running a fully hac'd ecm when making changes for an off highway use vehicle.

Old 01-05-2001, 09:58 PM
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At least on my car (86 305TPI), the AIR-removal wasn't a problem to the ECM at all. It was almost like the factory expected people to remove it.. it was driven by its own belt, doesn't throw a code, easily removed.. I just clipped the ends of the solenoid wiring off and tucked it neatly into the loom. My manifolds are WAY rusty, so I kinked the ends of the tubes to plug the holes, and just snapped 'em off. Only drawbacks are the appearance (but manifolds suck anyway and the ends of the tubes are a bit sharp, so I have to watch myself when reaching in that general area.

As far as the EGR, I've heard the ECM monitors the results of the vacuum command, and sets the SES if it doesn't see what it wants. I'm not there yet on my motor, but Grumpy's advice sounds very worthwhile.
Old 01-12-2001, 12:56 AM
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Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
I'll have to agree with gravitar! I have an '86 305 TPI as well and I took the belt off my smog pump, therefore disabling it and it throws NO codes at all! The only reason I disconnected the two connectors on the air diverter valve on my car was because I cut off the CAT on my car and the air diverter valve pumps air through the little tube that originally went to the CAT! I tried to just clamp the end of the little tube but it just caused a high pitch whistling sound so I disconnected the two connectors! But back to the subject here..... I don't see the point in disconnecting the EGR position sensor! I've never disconnected mine or even KNOW WHAT the EGR position sensor looks like or where it is! And my car runs just fine and throws ZERO codes!! So basically unless you're really worried about it, you don't even need to "disable" or "change" any of the codes because the SES light won't come on anyway just because of the smog pump being removed!!

------------------
1986 Trans AM
305 TPI
Completely Stock
Soon to upgrade to a 327 TPI with pocket ported 64CC heads, comp cam, TPI air foil, Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, possibly bigger injectors!
Current project: Keeping my car running until I get the money for the above mentioned project! :-)
Old 01-16-2001, 02:17 PM
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Car: '87 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 385 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
I did the same thing too, removing the belt, then the air pump, bracket, and tubing with no codes set. I even removed the small air tubes going into the manifolds. I bought and installed eight 1/4"X20 plugs (allen-key indentions) to block off the holes where the air tubes go into the manifolds. Very neat, the plugs are almost unnoticable, and this "mod" reduced spark-plug-changing time to less than an hour with less bloody knuckles.

------------------
Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4
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