Tuning with the EBL
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
I have a brand new 383 TPI that I installed and had initially started by the guy who built the motor. The initial startup was done with the OE computer, a Hypertec Prom adapter and a Prom burned by Kennedy's in Buffalo as a starter to make sure I didn't have any leaks, mechanical problems etc... The engine builder had originally set the timing, but did not set it to anything in particular, just set it to what made it run good. I have since got the EBL, installed it, pulled the info from the Prom Kenedy burned, and ran it in the EBL. I notice the initial timing on the startup chip was set to 5.98, which seems to be common with TPI tunes I have seen. I had verified what the car was actually set to, and I read 10.
I know I need to make a change, but does it matter if I change the timing or the tune? Is there a reason most TPI tunes I see have the initial timing set to 5.98? Is it just to match the sticker on the hood? Why is it not an even 6.00, who can set timing to that kind of accuracy?
Thanks
I know I need to make a change, but does it matter if I change the timing or the tune? Is there a reason most TPI tunes I see have the initial timing set to 5.98? Is it just to match the sticker on the hood? Why is it not an even 6.00, who can set timing to that kind of accuracy?
Thanks
17 * 0.3515625 = 5.98* (rounded)
If the engine builder feels that 10* BTDC for the base setting is good, then change the calibration to match and flash it in.
The base timing is used during cranking, don't want the engine to kick back when hot, and don't want the engine to windmill and not catch when cold.
RBob.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
I'm gonna take a shot at this: on the AFR question, I think the tables display the "commanded AFR" values. If you think about open loop versus closed loop, in OL (and hence, PE as well) the O2 sensor is not used for feedback. In OL, the injector PW will be calculated but cannot really be checked or corrected by feedback. I think there is something like a 'backup correction' though, which will prevent the engine from running far too lean by reading the NBO2 sensor voltage and adding fuel, but it's not as sophisticated or predictable since it's not in the 14.7 range..
Therefore, OL/PE needs to be tuned with a WBO2. For the EBL, when doing WBO2 VE learns, VEL will compare the internally calculated commanded OL AFR to the WBO2 readings. BLM VEL can only be done in closed loop since it's using the NBO2 readings, which requires an AFR of around the stoichiometric 14.7 to make sense.
That's the way i understood it, anyways HTH
On the knock counts, I'm curious about the input you get here as I've sometimes experienced similar scenarios myself. Could imho be related to a variation in temperature (CTS, IAT, ambient) but also humidity, barometric pressure/altitude, etc... As said, I'm curious
Therefore, OL/PE needs to be tuned with a WBO2. For the EBL, when doing WBO2 VE learns, VEL will compare the internally calculated commanded OL AFR to the WBO2 readings. BLM VEL can only be done in closed loop since it's using the NBO2 readings, which requires an AFR of around the stoichiometric 14.7 to make sense.
That's the way i understood it, anyways HTH
On the knock counts, I'm curious about the input you get here as I've sometimes experienced similar scenarios myself. Could imho be related to a variation in temperature (CTS, IAT, ambient) but also humidity, barometric pressure/altitude, etc... As said, I'm curious
"I think there is something like a 'backup correction' though, which will prevent the engine from running far too lean by reading the NBO2 sensor voltage and adding fuel, but it's not as sophisticated or predictable since it's not in the 14.7 range.."
Even though it may not matter, I am curious as to what/where this backup correction type setting is and how it actually works. I remember reading something about that too in which there is a reading is calculated right before going into OL or something like that.
Ty again!
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
> Max SA: 31d
The "SA - Maximum SA" and "SA - Maximum SA Retard" are defined by the distributor. They shouldn't be changed unless you go to a DIS system or such. It is the maximum values that can be programmed into the distributor without it cross firing.
> Lastly, I was wondering what could be causing a really rich section during take off
Too much AE. Can see the volume of AE as the last column of the screenshot you posted. Not sure which calibration you started with, but lets assume for this example it was a stock one.
> FP/injectors: 80lbs at 18psi
That is about 94#/hr of fuel. Stock 5.7l is about 61#/hr, dividing 61 by 94 gives us:
61 / 94 = 0.65
So to start off with the AE in the general ballpark, multiply both of the AE PW tables (MAP & TPS) by .65
RBob.
The "SA - Maximum SA" and "SA - Maximum SA Retard" are defined by the distributor. They shouldn't be changed unless you go to a DIS system or such. It is the maximum values that can be programmed into the distributor without it cross firing.
> Lastly, I was wondering what could be causing a really rich section during take off
Too much AE. Can see the volume of AE as the last column of the screenshot you posted. Not sure which calibration you started with, but lets assume for this example it was a stock one.
> FP/injectors: 80lbs at 18psi
That is about 94#/hr of fuel. Stock 5.7l is about 61#/hr, dividing 61 by 94 gives us:
61 / 94 = 0.65
So to start off with the AE in the general ballpark, multiply both of the AE PW tables (MAP & TPS) by .65
RBob.
I will look into the AE and make the changes on that! I know that the AE tables are pretty modified from stock at the moment as my tune was a pretune done but I will try and see how that changes things and go from there. I know that the values at the higher end of my AE table seem to skyrocket from when I previously noticed them.
Will update soon.
Thanks for all the help!
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Thanks again for all the help! I will update soon.
Btw I am really thinking about that 4.3 v6 S10 vortec supercharger yet still need some more thoughts on if it will benefit performance enough before buying it and if it will require a 2-bar map sensor with the EBL. I dont know much about superchargers.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Have a few questions. Like to also note that NY State Police Do not like EBL or any electronic devices in car while driving. Even if you are not touching it in any way. LOL
I have been trying to find out the source of spark knock in my vehicle as I believed it to be false because in the area that I get it I retarded timing 6 degrees with really no effect. Always in the same area so that leads me to believe that it cant be false though. I only have a water pump and alternator for things driven off the engine. I don't hear any noise from them. Plus exhaust does not rattle that I know, and there is ample clearance around it every where. I know I do get some knock at start up and shut down. This not worried about. If I dont hear any spark knock. How do I find the source of the assumed false knock exspecially if it only happens under load 1600rpm to 3600rpm from 80 to 100KPa. So no way to really listen for exhaust or accessories. I did turn on Option word 1 bit 0- BstNK. With no effect either. Al though it felt like it picked up slightly on power, but that could be false in it self. Un reliable but dino
I know the SA Initial is set at zero at idle as I double checked it the other day. Is it supposed to jump to 6 when above idle and the brown wire with black strip is disconnected? Could it be my harmonic balancer is off so I am reading 0 initial timing when in fact is may be higher. If I zero out the SA table in the area and it helps would this in fact prove that the old balancer is off? (Have not tried to zero the area out yet.)
I have seen other peoples SA tables with similar set ups and they actually advanced timing in the areas where I am getting this knock count.
Is it possible If I cant find the exact source of knock counts to lower it in any way if fake. Like change the filter setting, if so what should it be set to.
Maybe I need to have someone else look at a datalog maybe I am missing something. As I am not the greatest at this.
Also how to tune for WOT or close to it as VE Learns do not happen there is the only way to use a wide band O2
I have been trying to find out the source of spark knock in my vehicle as I believed it to be false because in the area that I get it I retarded timing 6 degrees with really no effect. Always in the same area so that leads me to believe that it cant be false though. I only have a water pump and alternator for things driven off the engine. I don't hear any noise from them. Plus exhaust does not rattle that I know, and there is ample clearance around it every where. I know I do get some knock at start up and shut down. This not worried about. If I dont hear any spark knock. How do I find the source of the assumed false knock exspecially if it only happens under load 1600rpm to 3600rpm from 80 to 100KPa. So no way to really listen for exhaust or accessories. I did turn on Option word 1 bit 0- BstNK. With no effect either. Al though it felt like it picked up slightly on power, but that could be false in it self. Un reliable but dino
I know the SA Initial is set at zero at idle as I double checked it the other day. Is it supposed to jump to 6 when above idle and the brown wire with black strip is disconnected? Could it be my harmonic balancer is off so I am reading 0 initial timing when in fact is may be higher. If I zero out the SA table in the area and it helps would this in fact prove that the old balancer is off? (Have not tried to zero the area out yet.)
I have seen other peoples SA tables with similar set ups and they actually advanced timing in the areas where I am getting this knock count.
Is it possible If I cant find the exact source of knock counts to lower it in any way if fake. Like change the filter setting, if so what should it be set to.
Maybe I need to have someone else look at a datalog maybe I am missing something. As I am not the greatest at this.
Also how to tune for WOT or close to it as VE Learns do not happen there is the only way to use a wide band O2
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Have a few questions. Like to also note that NY State Police Do not like EBL or any electronic devices in car while driving. Even if you are not touching it in any way. LOL
I have been trying to find out the source of spark knock in my vehicle as I believed it to be false because in the area that I get it I retarded timing 6 degrees with really no effect. Always in the same area so that leads me to believe that it cant be false though. I only have a water pump and alternator for things driven off the engine. I don't hear any noise from them. Plus exhaust does not rattle that I know, and there is ample clearance around it every where. I know I do get some knock at start up and shut down. This not worried about. If I dont hear any spark knock. How do I find the source of the assumed false knock exspecially if it only happens under load 1600rpm to 3600rpm from 80 to 100KPa. So no way to really listen for exhaust or accessories. I did turn on Option word 1 bit 0- BstNK. With no effect either. Al though it felt like it picked up slightly on power, but that could be false in it self. Un reliable but dino
I know the SA Initial is set at zero at idle as I double checked it the other day. Is it supposed to jump to 6 when above idle and the brown wire with black strip is disconnected? Could it be my harmonic balancer is off so I am reading 0 initial timing when in fact is may be higher. If I zero out the SA table in the area and it helps would this in fact prove that the old balancer is off? (Have not tried to zero the area out yet.)
I have seen other peoples SA tables with similar set ups and they actually advanced timing in the areas where I am getting this knock count.
Is it possible If I cant find the exact source of knock counts to lower it in any way if fake. Like change the filter setting, if so what should it be set to.
Maybe I need to have someone else look at a datalog maybe I am missing something. As I am not the greatest at this.
Also how to tune for WOT or close to it as VE Learns do not happen there is the only way to use a wide band O2
I have been trying to find out the source of spark knock in my vehicle as I believed it to be false because in the area that I get it I retarded timing 6 degrees with really no effect. Always in the same area so that leads me to believe that it cant be false though. I only have a water pump and alternator for things driven off the engine. I don't hear any noise from them. Plus exhaust does not rattle that I know, and there is ample clearance around it every where. I know I do get some knock at start up and shut down. This not worried about. If I dont hear any spark knock. How do I find the source of the assumed false knock exspecially if it only happens under load 1600rpm to 3600rpm from 80 to 100KPa. So no way to really listen for exhaust or accessories. I did turn on Option word 1 bit 0- BstNK. With no effect either. Al though it felt like it picked up slightly on power, but that could be false in it self. Un reliable but dino
I know the SA Initial is set at zero at idle as I double checked it the other day. Is it supposed to jump to 6 when above idle and the brown wire with black strip is disconnected? Could it be my harmonic balancer is off so I am reading 0 initial timing when in fact is may be higher. If I zero out the SA table in the area and it helps would this in fact prove that the old balancer is off? (Have not tried to zero the area out yet.)
I have seen other peoples SA tables with similar set ups and they actually advanced timing in the areas where I am getting this knock count.
Is it possible If I cant find the exact source of knock counts to lower it in any way if fake. Like change the filter setting, if so what should it be set to.
Maybe I need to have someone else look at a datalog maybe I am missing something. As I am not the greatest at this.
Also how to tune for WOT or close to it as VE Learns do not happen there is the only way to use a wide band O2
As for the knock, if you are removing SA and it stays the same, then it is likely false.
RBob.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
I know the SA Initial is set at zero at idle as I double checked it the other day. Is it supposed to jump to 6 when above idle and the brown wire with black strip is disconnected?
Once connected it will read the main SA table with modifiers. Most likely 20 deg ++.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Most states don't want a laptop open where the driver can see the screen. What I do is to seat belt it in on the passenger seat, place a piece of foam on a solid area next to the keyboard, and close the lid down onto the foam. Leaves enough of a gap to keep the laptop from going into standby mode, and allows me to reach in and tap the space bar.
As for the knock, if you are removing SA and it stays the same, then it is likely false.
RBob.
As for the knock, if you are removing SA and it stays the same, then it is likely false.
RBob.
Ronny- Already have done what you said, and I have double checked it many times.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
I know the SA Initial is set at zero at idle as I double checked it the other day. Is it supposed to jump to 6 when above idle and the brown wire with black strip is disconnected? Could it be my harmonic balancer is off so I am reading 0 initial timing when in fact is may be higher. If I zero out the SA table in the area and it helps would this in fact prove that the old balancer is off? (Have not tried to zero the area out yet.)
I have seen other peoples SA tables with similar set ups and they actually advanced timing in the areas where I am getting this knock count.
Also how to tune for WOT or close to it as VE Learns do not happen there is the only way to use a wide band O2
I have seen other peoples SA tables with similar set ups and they actually advanced timing in the areas where I am getting this knock count.
Also how to tune for WOT or close to it as VE Learns do not happen there is the only way to use a wide band O2
One thing I noticed is you said you have spark knock at 80-100kPA, but you also asked how to tune for WOT. So I'm assuming you haven't changed the VE tables much in that area. A lean mixture could lead to knocking (read: engine damage) as well, so need to watch out for that! Check your spark plugs!
I can't believe it's false knock over such a wide range (1600-3600 rpm) and due to the fact it's at high MAP.
Last edited by ownor; 06-09-2012 at 01:12 PM.
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Lean Cruise Surge
Hey guys, I have a question regarding Lean Cruise. I can't seem to tune out a lean cruise surge no matter what settings I change. The surge seemly happens at random. Sometimes it will surge at cruise and other times its perfectly fine.
Here's what I've tried to resolve the issue: Setting max hiway AFR to 15.50, adding timing to the hiway SA table, zero'ing out the hiway SA table, dialing back the main SA table in the areas of cruise. Seems like no matter what the random surge happens.
Other things worth mentioning: Everything runs ok with hiway mode turned off. Even though my max target AFR is 15.50, I still see values upward of 16.90 sometimes. Additionally the surge seems to happen most frequently at lower speeds and lower loads (ie: 40mph at 38kpa). I don't get any knock counts during hiway mode...and my tune has pretty good VE coverage via WBO2 learns.
I've thought about simply enabling hiway mode at a higher mph, which would probably work out ok, but would like to know if there is anything I'm missing here? Or is the answer simply hiway mode works differently on different vehicles?
Attached is a log file of the event. Thanks.
Here's what I've tried to resolve the issue: Setting max hiway AFR to 15.50, adding timing to the hiway SA table, zero'ing out the hiway SA table, dialing back the main SA table in the areas of cruise. Seems like no matter what the random surge happens.
Other things worth mentioning: Everything runs ok with hiway mode turned off. Even though my max target AFR is 15.50, I still see values upward of 16.90 sometimes. Additionally the surge seems to happen most frequently at lower speeds and lower loads (ie: 40mph at 38kpa). I don't get any knock counts during hiway mode...and my tune has pretty good VE coverage via WBO2 learns.
I've thought about simply enabling hiway mode at a higher mph, which would probably work out ok, but would like to know if there is anything I'm missing here? Or is the answer simply hiway mode works differently on different vehicles?
Attached is a log file of the event. Thanks.
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Re: Lean Cruise Surge
Hey guys, I have a question regarding Lean Cruise. I can't seem to tune out a lean cruise surge no matter what settings I change. The surge seemly happens at random. Sometimes it will surge at cruise and other times its perfectly fine.
Here's what I've tried to resolve the issue: Setting max hiway AFR to 15.50, adding timing to the hiway SA table, zero'ing out the hiway SA table, dialing back the main SA table in the areas of cruise. Seems like no matter what the random surge happens.
Other things worth mentioning: Everything runs ok with hiway mode turned off. Even though my max target AFR is 15.50, I still see values upward of 16.90 sometimes. Additionally the surge seems to happen most frequently at lower speeds and lower loads (ie: 40mph at 38kpa). I don't get any knock counts during hiway mode...and my tune has pretty good VE coverage via WBO2 learns.
I've thought about simply enabling hiway mode at a higher mph, which would probably work out ok, but would like to know if there is anything I'm missing here? Or is the answer simply hiway mode works differently on different vehicles?
Attached is a log file of the event. Thanks.
Here's what I've tried to resolve the issue: Setting max hiway AFR to 15.50, adding timing to the hiway SA table, zero'ing out the hiway SA table, dialing back the main SA table in the areas of cruise. Seems like no matter what the random surge happens.
Other things worth mentioning: Everything runs ok with hiway mode turned off. Even though my max target AFR is 15.50, I still see values upward of 16.90 sometimes. Additionally the surge seems to happen most frequently at lower speeds and lower loads (ie: 40mph at 38kpa). I don't get any knock counts during hiway mode...and my tune has pretty good VE coverage via WBO2 learns.
I've thought about simply enabling hiway mode at a higher mph, which would probably work out ok, but would like to know if there is anything I'm missing here? Or is the answer simply hiway mode works differently on different vehicles?
Attached is a log file of the event. Thanks.
Try making it richer in that MAP area via the "HiWy - AFR" table. If that doesn't work then bump up the MPH enable for highway mode.
RBob.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
For the SA when above idle with ESC disconnected.. I believe there's also timing added by the ignition module. So depending on which exact one you have (imho they were different ones even when just looking at the various TBI models) there would be a specific SA added at particular engine speeds.
One thing I noticed is you said you have spark knock at 80-100kPA, but you also asked how to tune for WOT. So I'm assuming you haven't changed the VE tables much in that area. A lean mixture could lead to knocking (read: engine damage) as well, so need to watch out for that! Check your spark plugs!
I can't believe it's false knock over such a wide range (1600-3600 rpm) and due to the fact it's at high MAP.
One thing I noticed is you said you have spark knock at 80-100kPA, but you also asked how to tune for WOT. So I'm assuming you haven't changed the VE tables much in that area. A lean mixture could lead to knocking (read: engine damage) as well, so need to watch out for that! Check your spark plugs!
I can't believe it's false knock over such a wide range (1600-3600 rpm) and due to the fact it's at high MAP.
I am with you now in believing its not false as with option word 1 bit 0 bstkn. I started regarding stock tables and it seems I am getting less. I just don't understand why I would have to retard a stock table as much as 6 or more degrees. Could plugs be causing this because I am using e3 plugs and the size of the electrode cage when that gets hot and the inherit 305's tendency to spark knock due to heads and heat and you name it.
Last edited by 91rscammie; 06-06-2012 at 02:31 PM.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
It would not surprise me to see those plugs cause problems, try something normal.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Setting max hiway AFR to 15.50
does anyone know what the leanest one can run before a lean surge occurs?
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
No, have not manually changed fuel in that area but I have done about e 30 Ve Learns and now most stuff comes back 0 with no changes.
I am with you now in believing its not false as with option word 1 bit 0 bstkn. I started regarding stock tables and it seems I am getting less. I just don't understand why I would have to retard a stock table as much as 6 or more degrees. Could plugs be causing this because I am using e3 plugs and the size of the electrode cage when that gets hot and the inherit 305's tendency to spark knock due to heads and heat and you name it.
I am with you now in believing its not false as with option word 1 bit 0 bstkn. I started regarding stock tables and it seems I am getting less. I just don't understand why I would have to retard a stock table as much as 6 or more degrees. Could plugs be causing this because I am using e3 plugs and the size of the electrode cage when that gets hot and the inherit 305's tendency to spark knock due to heads and heat and you name it.
Could be a problem on the plugs as pointed out, but don't know about that myself. Suggesting to just change to some standard R44/45TS Delcos or whatever
Thanks on the correction Bob! Btw, care to explain how the AFR's can be adjusted in OL during PE for lean compensation, when it's not using the NBO2 for feedback control? Also wondering if you had a word on SA being added by just the module with EST bypassed.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Well on the VE Learns you mentioned.. Imho there's no way to get up in the higher MAP areas without having AE or PE put on, and thus VE BLM Learn will NOT cover these areas! So it's totally possible that you're lean up there IMO. You'd have to manually tune these areas or use WBO2 VE Learn!
Could be a problem on the plugs as pointed out, but don't know about that myself. Suggesting to just change to some standard R44/45TS Delcos or whatever
Could be a problem on the plugs as pointed out, but don't know about that myself. Suggesting to just change to some standard R44/45TS Delcos or whatever
#2020
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
i run 16.0 a/f on highway cruise . i didn't know you could go as lean as 18.0 a/f
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
..maybe it's just me but i find this rather contradictory BLM learns imho can't take place if PowerEnrich or AccelEnrich is on, which it will always be when you get on the throttle...
Hmm, otherwise you're doing Wideband VE Learns already and I missed that indication If you're stuck with Narrowband O2 sensor & BLM, then IMHO there's no way to learn these areas because you won't be in the stoich AFR range (14.7) and there's not really a way to interpret data from the narrowband sensor once off this value. Also, for BLM VE Learn @ rpm > 3600 you'd have to change the BLM - RPM Learn Threshold value.
was thinking the same here! 18.0:1 is really lean imho
Hmm, otherwise you're doing Wideband VE Learns already and I missed that indication If you're stuck with Narrowband O2 sensor & BLM, then IMHO there's no way to learn these areas because you won't be in the stoich AFR range (14.7) and there's not really a way to interpret data from the narrowband sensor once off this value. Also, for BLM VE Learn @ rpm > 3600 you'd have to change the BLM - RPM Learn Threshold value.
was thinking the same here! 18.0:1 is really lean imho
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Both my TCC and OD indicators are off intermittently, happening independently of each other. Gear position shows D mostly when in overdrive. TCC indicator is on or off apparantly at random when my 700r4 locks up normally. Any ideas? TIA
'90 gmc sierra 5.7 4x4
'90 gmc sierra 5.7 4x4
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
RBob.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
If it shows OD, flip this flag:
Option Word 2 - Bit 5 - HiGrH
By flip, if set then unset it. If unset then set it.
As for the TCC, that indicator is the ECM commanding the TCC to lock. So unless the TCC in the trans is not under ECM control (it should be), then it is showing when it is being locked. Foot off the throttle will usually cause the ECM to unlock the TCC.
RBob.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Btw, I was wondering why is that OL AFR table in VAC and not MAP like all others?
I have some other questions i came across while tuning yesterday night.
When tuning AE & PE, i noticed that the resolution in the XDF/BIN for the MAP & TPS PW is pretty rough... like i had it at 122µsec and the next values would have been like 61 and 183 or something like that (would indicate a resolution of ~61µsec for that PW tables).
I was also wondering how you would tune your idle state parameters. Do you want the least in RPM, MAP, AFR, SA while getting a smooth run? What do you really tune for is basically my question. It might be easier with the L03 now but prolly not with a future more cammy engine.
I have a problem where my computer will detect the EBL as serial PS/2 mouse when i plug in the USB port and the mouse pointer will go all wild darting and clicking across the screen.. any way to fix that? replugging to another USB port doesn't always work and it's kinda annoying
#2026
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
In PE mode the current BLM is used if it is above 128. That could be considered an adjustment due to O2 feedback. But it isn't actively changing anything from the O2 feedback while in PE.
> Btw, I was wondering why is that OL AFR table in VAC and not MAP like all others?
Has to do with elevation changes. It takes the barometric pressure out of the desired AFR value to use.
> I was also wondering how you would tune your idle state parameters. Do you want the
For idle, set the desired RPM at a reasonable value. This is based mainly on the cam and whether it is an auto or stick. For SA, again, a reasonable value. Many claim that it should be adjusted for maximum vacuum. But this ends up being too much which causes other issues.
Mainly a 'floaty' idle speed and the inability to close off the throttle blades to bring the RPM down.
Then for AFR, whatever makes the engine happy. Mostly for a smooth idle. Proportional gains can be an issue once the injector size starts to increase. Trick here is to reduce the gain, and also slow down the INT update rate.
> I have a problem where my computer will detect the EBL as serial PS/2 mouse when
> i plug in the USB port and the mouse pointer will go all wild darting
Yep, Windows thinks it is a mouse or other pointing device. Ain't Windows great? The only thing you can do is to either unplug the cable or key-off before booting up the laptop.
RBob.
> Btw, I was wondering why is that OL AFR table in VAC and not MAP like all others?
Has to do with elevation changes. It takes the barometric pressure out of the desired AFR value to use.
> I was also wondering how you would tune your idle state parameters. Do you want the
For idle, set the desired RPM at a reasonable value. This is based mainly on the cam and whether it is an auto or stick. For SA, again, a reasonable value. Many claim that it should be adjusted for maximum vacuum. But this ends up being too much which causes other issues.
Mainly a 'floaty' idle speed and the inability to close off the throttle blades to bring the RPM down.
Then for AFR, whatever makes the engine happy. Mostly for a smooth idle. Proportional gains can be an issue once the injector size starts to increase. Trick here is to reduce the gain, and also slow down the INT update rate.
> I have a problem where my computer will detect the EBL as serial PS/2 mouse when
> i plug in the USB port and the mouse pointer will go all wild darting
Yep, Windows thinks it is a mouse or other pointing device. Ain't Windows great? The only thing you can do is to either unplug the cable or key-off before booting up the laptop.
RBob.
#2027
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Hi, I'm in the process of trying to confirm if I have false knock or actual knock, and I could use some input. This weekend I ran several VE learns, and I noticed knocking, so I backed off on SA in these areas which didn't seem to do much.... not sure however, so I went back to the original P4 3005.bin and re ran the bin with no modifications, and did a data log which I will attach for review. I even had knock counts using this first .bin file, which should be fairly "on" for my motor in the SA table???
the 3005.bin is extremely rich at idle and low speed which learn VE imediately pulled out what I thought to be a high volume of fuel the first few learns I did saturday. RBOB, I'll send the .dat file to your email directly... its too big to post
specs:
1987 Gen I 350 crate motor
SD TPI pieced together - originally purchased from now defunkt customefis.com
mild RV cam, Corvette Ram horns 2.5 inch collectors 2 into 1 3.5 inch exhaust.
EBL P4 with TT-1 on ADC 0
I pulled the sparkplugs and attempted to confirm any "black specs" on the porcaline (sp) but only saw fouling. On the right/left rear cylinder the porcaline was toasty brown, but the others were bright white.
first picture is a Front cylinder example, second picture is a Rear cylinder example. Can anyone see anything wrong with these plugs? Am I looking at false knock or real knock???
the 3005.bin is extremely rich at idle and low speed which learn VE imediately pulled out what I thought to be a high volume of fuel the first few learns I did saturday. RBOB, I'll send the .dat file to your email directly... its too big to post
specs:
1987 Gen I 350 crate motor
SD TPI pieced together - originally purchased from now defunkt customefis.com
mild RV cam, Corvette Ram horns 2.5 inch collectors 2 into 1 3.5 inch exhaust.
EBL P4 with TT-1 on ADC 0
I pulled the sparkplugs and attempted to confirm any "black specs" on the porcaline (sp) but only saw fouling. On the right/left rear cylinder the porcaline was toasty brown, but the others were bright white.
first picture is a Front cylinder example, second picture is a Rear cylinder example. Can anyone see anything wrong with these plugs? Am I looking at false knock or real knock???
#2028
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
RBob,
thanks for your comments!
Actually quite smart on both of the BLM/PE as well as the VAC/BARO thing.. is that the way it is implemented in standard C3 ECMs too?
On idle tuning.. what i'm not sure i get is the way how IAC & SA work together to attain a certain idle rpm, but i think both are influencing idle rpm, no? The way i understand it is that idle state SA will also affect how steady or surging your idle rpm is, like when thinking of the way the low & high idle compensation tables work (could this be seen as the prop gains for idle control?).
What's a reasonable MAP value for a cold, warming up and warmed up idle with the L03? I'm not hunting down a bad idle at all anymore, just looking for something to compare to.
And yeah, talk about windows being smart
Any comment regarding the AE & PE PW resolution?
I have one more Q on the bathtub VE curve and injector compensation.. Do you think i need more? Any other inputs are well appreciated too ^^
thanks for your comments!
Actually quite smart on both of the BLM/PE as well as the VAC/BARO thing.. is that the way it is implemented in standard C3 ECMs too?
On idle tuning.. what i'm not sure i get is the way how IAC & SA work together to attain a certain idle rpm, but i think both are influencing idle rpm, no? The way i understand it is that idle state SA will also affect how steady or surging your idle rpm is, like when thinking of the way the low & high idle compensation tables work (could this be seen as the prop gains for idle control?).
What's a reasonable MAP value for a cold, warming up and warmed up idle with the L03? I'm not hunting down a bad idle at all anymore, just looking for something to compare to.
And yeah, talk about windows being smart
Any comment regarding the AE & PE PW resolution?
I have one more Q on the bathtub VE curve and injector compensation.. Do you think i need more? Any other inputs are well appreciated too ^^
Last edited by ownor; 06-11-2012 at 06:35 AM.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Hi, I'm in the process of trying to confirm if I have false knock or actual knock, and I could use some input. This weekend I ran several VE learns, and I noticed knocking, so I backed off on SA in these areas which didn't seem to do much.... not sure however, so I went back to the original P4 3005.bin and re ran the bin with no modifications, and did a data log which I will attach for review. I even had knock counts using this first .bin file, which should be fairly "on" for my motor in the SA table???
the 3005.bin is extremely rich at idle and low speed which learn VE imediately pulled out what I thought to be a high volume of fuel the first few learns I did saturday. RBOB, I'll send the .dat file to your email directly... its too big to post
specs:
1987 Gen I 350 crate motor
SD TPI pieced together - originally purchased from now defunkt customefis.com
mild RV cam, Corvette Ram horns 2.5 inch collectors 2 into 1 3.5 inch exhaust.
EBL P4 with TT-1 on ADC 0
I pulled the sparkplugs and attempted to confirm any "black specs" on the porcaline (sp) but only saw fouling. On the right/left rear cylinder the porcaline was toasty brown, but the others were bright white.
first picture is a Front cylinder example, second picture is a Rear cylinder example. Can anyone see anything wrong with these plugs? Am I looking at false knock or real knock???
the 3005.bin is extremely rich at idle and low speed which learn VE imediately pulled out what I thought to be a high volume of fuel the first few learns I did saturday. RBOB, I'll send the .dat file to your email directly... its too big to post
specs:
1987 Gen I 350 crate motor
SD TPI pieced together - originally purchased from now defunkt customefis.com
mild RV cam, Corvette Ram horns 2.5 inch collectors 2 into 1 3.5 inch exhaust.
EBL P4 with TT-1 on ADC 0
I pulled the sparkplugs and attempted to confirm any "black specs" on the porcaline (sp) but only saw fouling. On the right/left rear cylinder the porcaline was toasty brown, but the others were bright white.
first picture is a Front cylinder example, second picture is a Rear cylinder example. Can anyone see anything wrong with these plugs? Am I looking at false knock or real knock???
It does appear that there is some oil being pulled into the chambers. From where is a good question. PCV, valve stem seals, lower intake gasket from lifter valley.
RBob.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
On idle tuning.. what i'm not sure i get is the way how IAC & SA work together to attain a certain idle rpm, but i think both are influencing idle rpm, no? The way i understand it is that idle state SA will also affect how steady or surging your idle rpm is, like when thinking of the way the low & high idle compensation tables work (could this be seen as the prop gains for idle control?).
What's a reasonable MAP value for a cold, warming up and warmed up idle with the L03? I'm not hunting down a bad idle at all anymore, just looking for something to compare to.
What's a reasonable MAP value for a cold, warming up and warmed up idle with the L03? I'm not hunting down a bad idle at all anymore, just looking for something to compare to.
What happens when the injector compensation is too low, is that the VE starts to curve back up at low loads (low KPa) through most of the RPM range. This is from the PW getting small and the VE table making up for not enough injector compensation.
RBob.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Your welcome.
Do-able, but it'll take a good deal of tuning to get all that. Patience will be your watch word.
The ECM knows a few things.
It knows that the NB sensor can indicate TWO things.
1. That the AFR is currently richer than 14.7
2. That the AFR is currently leaner than 14.7
It can then know that if it attempts to deliver 14.8 and the NB says leaner than 14.7, and it then attempts to deliver 14.6 and the NB says richer than 14.7, it's probably very close.
Based on that, it can calculate that the value it thinks is 14.7 requires X injector time for the current MAP, TPS, etc. that if one ( or more ) of those changes, it can make an educated guess as to what 14.7 would be, and again check and adjust.
The INT and BLM work off of just these trial and error calculations.
The ECM builds a BLM value, a correction factor, for the VE table, so it "knows" how to generate a 14.7 AFR for all of those cells.
Based on that, when something like PE commands a 12.x AFR, the ECM makes an educated guess as to what injector timing should make that number, and that the NB should indicate rich, and takes it's best shot.
It's probably close.
The EBL, being more intelligent than your average ECM, is also able to double-check it's guess against a WB, and that's what VE Learn does.
Check, and correct, so that the next time the EBL guesses the injector timing for those conditions, it'll be closer.
Does this help ?
More likely an indication that something else changed.
Octane of the fuel, temperature, ( engine is cooler, and commanded AFR based on temperature ( one of many parameters ) is different ) or the like.
False knock, a mechanical noise that the sensor picks up, is a mechanical thing strictly, so is more likely to always occur under the same mechanical conditions, regardless of spark timing, or fuel.
The indication of false knock is that spark advance has absolutely no affect on the knock, but does cause performance to change, such as taking out ten degrees and while the engine falls flat, the knock indication is still present.
A further thought would be that you're still several degrees too far advanced !
Remember, you want the LEAST advance that produces the MOST performance, and not one degree more.
Once you're "in the zone" 4 degrees or so would produce about 1% performance difference.
Outside the zone, the performance difference, or the knock, is much, much more.
Depends how rich, and for how long ?
PE should cause such an indication, but if the WB does indicate what PE is commanding, then it's telling you that things are working correctly as programmed.
When I get time, if someone else hasn't hit it first.
Best advice there would be to tune for the way it will be driven !
I'm not sure you'd be eliminating variances as much as changing one kind for another.
What I am attempting to achieve is an overall good driving car, I want my low end cruising speeds to be gas savers and I want my WOT runs to bring the most out of the engine. The car is basically used for all around dd fun/weekend racing. Overall my goal was to get about 400 hp/tq out of my engine from when I decided to build it.
Now for my questions:
PE-AFR Commanded
Open Loop - AFR vs RPM & VAC
I noticed the values in these tables are in WB values. The NB sensor is what these cars came with so im wondering how does the ECM know how to get the AFR set in these tables ? Does it convert the NB values to these values ? or are they only used when a WB is in place?
PE-AFR Commanded
Open Loop - AFR vs RPM & VAC
I noticed the values in these tables are in WB values. The NB sensor is what these cars came with so im wondering how does the ECM know how to get the AFR set in these tables ? Does it convert the NB values to these values ? or are they only used when a WB is in place?
It knows that the NB sensor can indicate TWO things.
1. That the AFR is currently richer than 14.7
2. That the AFR is currently leaner than 14.7
It can then know that if it attempts to deliver 14.8 and the NB says leaner than 14.7, and it then attempts to deliver 14.6 and the NB says richer than 14.7, it's probably very close.
Based on that, it can calculate that the value it thinks is 14.7 requires X injector time for the current MAP, TPS, etc. that if one ( or more ) of those changes, it can make an educated guess as to what 14.7 would be, and again check and adjust.
The INT and BLM work off of just these trial and error calculations.
The ECM builds a BLM value, a correction factor, for the VE table, so it "knows" how to generate a 14.7 AFR for all of those cells.
Based on that, when something like PE commands a 12.x AFR, the ECM makes an educated guess as to what injector timing should make that number, and that the NB should indicate rich, and takes it's best shot.
It's probably close.
The EBL, being more intelligent than your average ECM, is also able to double-check it's guess against a WB, and that's what VE Learn does.
Check, and correct, so that the next time the EBL guesses the injector timing for those conditions, it'll be closer.
Does this help ?
After my first spark removal of about 3d in the areas near 4400, I tested again and the knocks were greatly reduced.
Then Removed another degree in area and the knocks were almost gone and I left it there.
Then tested again a few hours later and a whole bunch of knock counts came back ??? :/ Could this be an indicator of false knock?
Then Removed another degree in area and the knocks were almost gone and I left it there.
Then tested again a few hours later and a whole bunch of knock counts came back ??? :/ Could this be an indicator of false knock?
Octane of the fuel, temperature, ( engine is cooler, and commanded AFR based on temperature ( one of many parameters ) is different ) or the like.
False knock, a mechanical noise that the sensor picks up, is a mechanical thing strictly, so is more likely to always occur under the same mechanical conditions, regardless of spark timing, or fuel.
The indication of false knock is that spark advance has absolutely no affect on the knock, but does cause performance to change, such as taking out ten degrees and while the engine falls flat, the knock indication is still present.
A further thought would be that you're still several degrees too far advanced !
Remember, you want the LEAST advance that produces the MOST performance, and not one degree more.
Once you're "in the zone" 4 degrees or so would produce about 1% performance difference.
Outside the zone, the performance difference, or the knock, is much, much more.
Lastly, I was wondering what could be causing a really rich section durring take off that my WB is seeing.
PE should cause such an indication, but if the WB does indicate what PE is commanding, then it's telling you that things are working correctly as programmed.
Here is a data log of the take off, I have many more logs of my WOT runs as well.
I feel as though I would be better off recording times starting from a roll as that would eliminate any take off variances?
I'm not sure you'd be eliminating variances as much as changing one kind for another.
Last edited by Cflick; 06-11-2012 at 01:24 PM. Reason: A further thought...
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Best economy should happen something close to 16:1, *if* your engine can run there.
For me, it's around 15.7:1 provided it's close to no load.
#2033
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
For the SA when above idle with EST disconnected.. I believe there's also timing added by the ignition module. So depending on which exact one you have (imho they were different ones even when just looking at the various TBI models) there would be a specific SA added at particular engine speeds.
Mine, the spark module ( in the distributor ) generates a spark when it sees the pulse from the crank position indicator. ( can be a crank trigger, or trigger wheel in the dist )
This is what starts the engine when spinning on the starter.
When it sees a pulse on the command wire from the ECM, it uses that instead, ALWAYS.
At that point, the module ignores it's built in advance completely.
My TBI EBL Flash this occurs at 400 RPM, which is just slightly above what the starter itself is capable of.
If it doesn't see any pulses from the ECM, I forget the exact numbers but it's something like 1800 RPM it adds 12 degrees, and stays there. This is a limp mode intended to get the vehicle off the road, nothing more. ( factory base timing is supposed to be at TDC. No advance at all ) The numbers for your module may be different, but the principal is the same.
Disconnecting the connector to set timing essentially tells the system to run on the module ONLY for spark, so you can set distributor position such that the physical base timing matches exactly what's programmed into the ECM. It prevents the ECM from commanding spark, in case the idle wanders a bit. Spark will remain static.
If you raise the RPM, at some point you'll see the built in limp mode advance kick in.
My engine likes 10 degrees crank, hot or cold, rich or lean, so that's where I set base.
The ECM can then command up to an additional 44 degrees advance ( I set my max at an additional 42, to allow a little safety. At 45 it WILL cross fire ) for a maximum available to the ECM of 52 degrees total advance.
Of course, spark tables and such never get that far.
Coincidentally ( yeah, right ) the advance where the engine spends the vast majority of it's time ( around 30-32 degrees ) has the rotor perfectly lined up with the post.
( drill a hole in the cap, and watch it with a timing light )
Limp mode would be the 10 base plus the 12 the module is capable of, for a maximum limp mode spark advance of 22 degrees, a reasonable number.
The ECM can also mechanically command up to 44 degrees or so retard from that base, so as late as 36 degrees AFTER TDC, if conditions would warrant. ( not possible. It won't run there, but it allows the ECM a pretty wide range to fight detonation ) I think my max retard is programmed at 15 degrees ATDC or some such.
Whatever number you choose for your base mechanical setting, it is important that it match the base setting in the ECM, else your WUD will be wrong, as well as all of the numbers in all of your spark tables.
The objective, as Rbob says, is pick a number that reliably starts the engine, and EBL will take it from there, according to the tables and such as you program them.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Be aware, though, that if the idle surges enough to take the RPM out of the idle spark RPM range, the ECM can switch to the main spark table, and if too different, make the surge worse. Possibly much worse.
#2035
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
The resolution of 61 usec is due to the CTS compensation. Need a lot more AE at cold temperatures. To get enough range of AE PW, resolution takes a hit.
That isn't the bathtub curve that is due to injector compensation. What causes what is in the image is that corner of the VE table doesn't get learned in. Just need to take a minute and flatten it out in Tuner Pro. Intro to Tuning Part2 shows this (about halfway down the page).
RBob.
That isn't the bathtub curve that is due to injector compensation. What causes what is in the image is that corner of the VE table doesn't get learned in. Just need to take a minute and flatten it out in Tuner Pro. Intro to Tuning Part2 shows this (about halfway down the page).
RBob.
On the non-bathtub matter How is that (which, actually?) area not learned in? It's been always giving me VE correction values - kinda strange, unstable ones, tho - for 20 kPA through all the rpms.. I'll take a look at Intro to Tuning PartII though.
In WUD, do the aPW and sPW indicators show the net injector pulse width, so without the injector corrections etc? Also, roughly what's the minimum net PW that our TBI injectors can actually implement?
You guys are being a great help. Thanks again for your elaborations
Andi
#2036
Re: Tuning with the EBL
PCV is plugged, stem seals should be new...
I'll inspect them when I re adjust the valves. I think the valves could be giving me the false knock, got a slight tick on the passenger bank...
I also ordered all new gaskets, and I don't want to, but I can pull the intake off again to check the lower gasket
Also ordered new adjustable FP reg & FP sensor.... should be a while before I can get it all installed.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Ok...I'm seeing ground at ECM pin A7 right when the TCC engages but WUD shows TCC intermittently.
HiGrH is set correctly. I also back probed pin C7 and saw battery voltage. Just a 1 volt drop occurs when it shifts into OD. I found that when I touch the brake pedal while in overdrive, WUD will show OD and C7 goes to 0.3 volts! But in park, pressing brake only lowers C7 0.05v from battery voltage. I need to get the wiring diagram...but so far from this it seems to me like the OD issue is not inside EBL/WUD and the TCC issue could be.
Will either issue affect vehicle operation or just instrumentation? (Can I forget it for now haha) Thanks!
HiGrH is set correctly. I also back probed pin C7 and saw battery voltage. Just a 1 volt drop occurs when it shifts into OD. I found that when I touch the brake pedal while in overdrive, WUD will show OD and C7 goes to 0.3 volts! But in park, pressing brake only lowers C7 0.05v from battery voltage. I need to get the wiring diagram...but so far from this it seems to me like the OD issue is not inside EBL/WUD and the TCC issue could be.
Will either issue affect vehicle operation or just instrumentation? (Can I forget it for now haha) Thanks!
#2038
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Could it be caused by me idling the motor for almost an hour at BLM's around 108 could it?
PCV is plugged, stem seals should be new...
I'll inspect them when I re adjust the valves. I think the valves could be giving me the false knock, got a slight tick on the passenger bank...
I also ordered all new gaskets, and I don't want to, but I can pull the intake off again to check the lower gasket
Also ordered new adjustable FP reg & FP sensor.... should be a while before I can get it all installed.
PCV is plugged, stem seals should be new...
I'll inspect them when I re adjust the valves. I think the valves could be giving me the false knock, got a slight tick on the passenger bank...
I also ordered all new gaskets, and I don't want to, but I can pull the intake off again to check the lower gasket
Also ordered new adjustable FP reg & FP sensor.... should be a while before I can get it all installed.
Then see how they are after additional driving.
RBob.
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Ok...I'm seeing ground at ECM pin A7 right when the TCC engages but WUD shows TCC intermittently.
HiGrH is set correctly. I also back probed pin C7 and saw battery voltage. Just a 1 volt drop occurs when it shifts into OD. I found that when I touch the brake pedal while in overdrive, WUD will show OD and C7 goes to 0.3 volts! But in park, pressing brake only lowers C7 0.05v from battery voltage. I need to get the wiring diagram...but so far from this it seems to me like the OD issue is not inside EBL/WUD and the TCC issue could be.
Will either issue affect vehicle operation or just instrumentation? (Can I forget it for now haha) Thanks!
HiGrH is set correctly. I also back probed pin C7 and saw battery voltage. Just a 1 volt drop occurs when it shifts into OD. I found that when I touch the brake pedal while in overdrive, WUD will show OD and C7 goes to 0.3 volts! But in park, pressing brake only lowers C7 0.05v from battery voltage. I need to get the wiring diagram...but so far from this it seems to me like the OD issue is not inside EBL/WUD and the TCC issue could be.
Will either issue affect vehicle operation or just instrumentation? (Can I forget it for now haha) Thanks!
The 4th gear switch grounds the ECM pin at C7 (can be for OD, or not in OD. Depends upon which switch is used).
It may be that the 4th gear switch is also wired to enable the TCC solenoid. Although this is a user mod, I don't believe GM ever did that with ECM controlled TCC solenoids.
Some 700R4's have a temperature switch. Once the fluid gets too hot it will engage the TCC solenoid by grounding it.
For the calibration, be sure that it is one set up for the 700R4 transmission.
RBob.
#2040
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
i run 16.0 a/f on highway cruise . i didn't know you could go as lean as 18.0 a/f
My DE Enleanment factor is .62 which I beleive is 14.7 + .62 or 15.32.
#2041
Supreme Member
Re: Tuning with the EBL
my HiWy afr is set the same as yours but my wideband shows anwhere from 14.7 to 16.0 a/f . most of the time it hovers around 15.8 . on de mine goes in the 17's so i guess ours are about the same
#2042
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Ok, that makes sense... I ran 2-3 20 min learns (unmodified, or slightly) in open loop...
I just thought it was fouling based on how rich it was running for long period, I have had the oil burn problem before, which turned out to be my miss assembly of the valve seals.
I just thought it was fouling based on how rich it was running for long period, I have had the oil burn problem before, which turned out to be my miss assembly of the valve seals.
#2043
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I think its funny you say this, it really depends on the ignition system and chamber design and engine load. My 5.7 Hemi with two spark plugs per cylinder and coil on plug setup has no problem powering a truck down the road at 45-75 mph with the mixture in the 17.5-18:1 range. I get about 20-22 mpg running that speed with 4.56 gears and 32" tall tires with a .67 OD, I am turning 2,500 RPM @ 80 and pulling about 14-18 in/hg vacuum. When the truck switches to 4 cylinder mode, the vacuum falls to about 8-12 in/hg and the mixture richens to 15:1. In MDS 4 cylinder mode at about 70 mph, I pull and 2-3 mpg out of it.
Last edited by Fast355; 06-12-2012 at 08:54 PM.
#2045
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Car: 87 Suburban 2500
Engine: 455 Wildcat ( somewhat modified ))
Transmission: TH400 ( for now )
Axle/Gears: 4.10 ( for now )
Re: Tuning with the EBL
You are correct, though, in that at some point on the curve, all the gasoline needs to do is keep the engine from slowing down under it's own internal friction. At that point, slightly richer than "will just barely burn" might be enough, if it will light.
#2046
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Car: 87 Suburban 2500
Engine: 455 Wildcat ( somewhat modified ))
Transmission: TH400 ( for now )
Axle/Gears: 4.10 ( for now )
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Set this way, my engine rarely completes a single revolution before it's running. Yours may want something different.
#2047
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Car: 84 TA / 89 Formula
Engine: LS1 / L03
Transmission: T56 / 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 / 3.27
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Get the point about resolution and range. Though I'm still not sure there's enough resolution to dial in AE PW nicely enough, just got me wondering? Maybe I'm just wrong tho and it's already such a small amount of PW added through AE as you said when it's warmed up, that it doesnt make a huge difference wether it's 61, 122 or 180 µsec...
so of course 61µsec is kinda insignificant in that range, and guess it won't be much different for AE in cold conditions. Just a heads up to settle this, or in case anyone found themselves wondering the same
#2048
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Car: 84 TA / 89 Formula
Engine: LS1 / L03
Transmission: T56 / 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 / 3.27
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Interesting what you guys were discussing about the lean burn highway cruise AFRs... I have a question tho, is that on standard tunes or DIY/modified ones (@Fast's Hemi, for instance)? Cause IIRC, at these AFRs the NOx emissions, among others, will be, well... obNOxious
#2049
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Re: Tuning with the EBL
Ownor commented:
I datalogged today at 3600-6000 rpms. Since throttle was 24-48% TPS I never hit PE. AE yes. MAP ran 43-67. BLM changed from 119 initial to 122. INT initial 127 to 122. CL flag stayed on. No learn occurred due to AE and DE(at end of run).
However I had BLM data to use and modify VE table with. I chose not to mod the table.
I believe I could have hit higher MAP but road was flat 1200ft>sea level.
Well on the VE Learns you mentioned.. Imho there's no way to get up in the higher MAP areas without having AE or PE put on, and thus VE BLM Learn will NOT cover these areas! So it's totally possible that you're lean up there IMO. You'd have to manually tune these areas or use WBO2 VE Learn!
However I had BLM data to use and modify VE table with. I chose not to mod the table.
I believe I could have hit higher MAP but road was flat 1200ft>sea level.
#2050
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Had a few questions for you guys. My speedo is currently off about 15mph's. It says 60 when I'm going 75(got a ticket because of this). Well I am wondering if this is going to have any effects on my tuning. I am going to try and find out what gearing I have in the rear end so I can order the correct speedo gears. Another weird thing is that on the WUD the speedo on it is about 5mph off(higher) of what the cars speedo says. So in the end the ECM thinks I am going about 10mph slower then I really am.
Another thing I am having issues with is my Y-pipe. Well it sits REALLY low when the drivers side comes from the header and goes below my oil pan. Ive bottomed out multiple times and after having to drive down a gravel back road yesterday I think I have messed it up even more because the car seems louder. Should I hold off on doing any tuning until I get the y-pipe fixed? My low speed VE table is looking really good so it isnt like I am way off on the tune. THe high speed table is coming along good as well.
Another thing I am having issues with is my Y-pipe. Well it sits REALLY low when the drivers side comes from the header and goes below my oil pan. Ive bottomed out multiple times and after having to drive down a gravel back road yesterday I think I have messed it up even more because the car seems louder. Should I hold off on doing any tuning until I get the y-pipe fixed? My low speed VE table is looking really good so it isnt like I am way off on the tune. THe high speed table is coming along good as well.