MattODoom

iTrader: (1)

We've been trying to get my dads hotrod running a little better (5.7 TPI). When we use the stock MEMCAL the ALDL will flash "1-2" in shorted mode. However when I burn the 8D bin to the EEPROM and put it in, the ALDL will quick flash then go solid while shorted. If you take the EEPROM out and varify it with flash-n-burn it will fail. I also verify it before I put it in so I know its not in the burning process. We have tried two 730 ECMs they both seems to be doing this. Any idea whats going on?

3.8TransAM

U have the offsets set correctly?

U can search here or hit moates.net for the right offset.

What u are basically saying is your stock memcal/setup works fine correct?

When u use the adapter board and an(should be) offset burned chip it will not work?

Did u modify a memcal or using the adapter for the eeprom?

later
Jeremy

ryan.h

iTrader: (2)

Have you verified that each pin of the eeprom is connected to the corresponding pin of the memcal?

MattODoom

iTrader: (1)

Im using Flash-n-burn, so the offsets are preset depending on the BIN you load. its for a SD 730 computer so its ofset at 0, not 4000 like the MAF cars. All the pins are contacting just fine, I have the semicircle in the flashchip facing outwards on the MEMCAL, this correct? Thats how my 165 ecm takes it. I am using the G1 Moates adapter with a ZIF socket and the stock MEMCAL for the netres and knock filter.

Yes, the stock memcal runs fine, but my burned chips get corrupted. I read a chip after it was corrupted and opened it. Most of the tables were fine but the cylinders was 63 instead of 00 and the chip code mask was FF instead of 8D.

Any other ideas?

Grumpy

Try loading it with a .bin of FFs, and 00s a couple times.

I had a similiar issue with old EEPROMS with the Pocket Programmer, but not with the Flash and Burn. You might try pinging Craig on that.

MattODoom

iTrader: (1)

Well the weird part about it is I can burn it, verify it and it checks out OK. Take it out, put it back in, still verifies OK, but after I put it in the ECM and turn the ignition on the ECM trips out to Limp mode and the EEPROM will verify as Failure.

Are you suggesting I burn a bin of all 00's or all FF's? Or alternate 00 FF 00 FF etc?

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

In order to corrupt the EEPROM it needs to be installed wrong or ESD applied or something like that.

Are you installing the EEPROM upside down in the vehicle?
Have you ohmed out the MEMCAL adapter board to make sure that the connections are correct?
Are you building static electricity and touching the EEPROM pins?

EDIT - Are you using an Atmel 29C256 or the El-cheapo SF512 chip?

MattODoom

iTrader: (1)

Im using the Atmel 29C256 chips. Im pretty sure im installing it correctly. If I short the ALDL A+B pins to view diagnostic codes and then turn the key on with the fresh EEPROM I can see it blink once like its starting to say "1-2" but then it will just go solid indicating limp mode.

Ill have to throw the DVOM on it tomorrow when we get back from the detroit autorama, but Im about 98% sure it works as this is the same adapter I was using just yesterday in my GTA (165 ECM) and it was working flawlessly.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Come to think of it.......I once had a problem kind of like that.
It was a bad ZIF connection in the vehicle. The "write" signal on the chip didn't have a good contact and it would somehow get the proper command sequence to write the chip in the vehicle.

Do you have a ZIF socket in the vehicle? If so try snapping the handle shut instead of closing gently. Be careful not to break it though. Look at the chip pins to see if any are slightly bent....it could cause the problem

MattODoom

iTrader: (1)

Sorry - Ive tried multiple chips and with and without the ZIF socket in place. This thing is just totally eluding me!

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

When all else fails it is voltmeter time. I would connect the voltmeter to the VCC pin and the GND pin and turn the key on to see what the voltage is. If it is around 5 volts then it is good. I would then try connecting the voltmeter to the "write" pin and the GND pin. It should also read 5v. Other than that I don't know what it could be. Sometimes a bad connection at one of these will cause high inductance and high voltage which creates a problem but it sounds like you have ruled that out already.