hello verry new to tuning..need help, headers are glowing red at prat throttle...dont know if they are at full (dont think so)

i have a 88 iroc 165 ecu with an ostrich arap bin, tunerpro

zz4 short block, afr 180 heads, stealth ram, 26lbs accell inject,
bbk 52mm, stock maf, comp cams xe276hr 112 lsa,duration @.050
224 in, 230ex, lift .536in, .544ex. 14 degree base timing....
the only things that i have changed in the bin is idle speed,and
vats,fan temps...just got the car running last sat noticed that the headers were red and shut the car down,had the inj constant set to 26lbs changed it back to the bins original setting of 22lbs,but was afraid of running too lean and went further and changed to 16lbs....i dont know how to add fuel so i figured that by changing the inj size i would fool the ecm into adding a lot of fuel.(better safe than lean) started driving car today and would bog down past 1/2 throttle, changed inj back to 22lbs to try and car was an animal no bog or hasitation also no lean pop that i have read about an stealth ram cars. but at part throttle the headers start to glow ,,, i know this cant be good , i have read that the stock tune i rich at wot so i think wot would be ok but part throttle needs to be fixed PLEASE ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT

 

Watch your O2 sensor reading to see if you're rich or lean. I had a problem with glowing headers, and it turned out to be too little timing. Sometimes you can be a little too safe. Also, too much fuel can mimic not having enough timing because the mix is so rich it doesn't burn well.

Teeleton

 

A little lean won't necessarily make headers glow. Stoichiometric can. Rich can. Burning in the exhuast can. Incorrectly adjusted valves can. Too little ignition timing can. A good hard full throttle pull can. Glowing headers aren't an indication of any one thing in particular, and a little even glow is nothing to worry about. The usual causes are really retarded timing, or super rich running.

Also, you should leave the injector constant at what is used in the engine (unless you're reaching some drawback in the code, but you're not). So, put it back to 26.

Also, set the base timing in the chip to match the actual base timing.

Part throttle timing should be in the 35-40 degree range, depending on your definition of part throttle and RPM.

 

will try putting inj to 26 and ref the ecm to the 14 deg base timing

rockers are a little noisy but i dont think that is the issue

can too much timing cause this ?? i have not changed the spark map at all but i had the base timming in the chip set to 6 deg and i am running 14 base...i dont have a adj press reg so ffuel press is at 32-35 at idle...any more help is much appreciated.........

THANK YOU

ps i have tried my snap on scanner but it will not comunicate with the ecm and ostrich ,

 

Good post, that is very similar to what
I was going to type.

 

You need to check for knock counts AND have the base tming at the dist match your chip. That would be the first thing I would do. *IF* the knock sensor is picking up false(or true) detonation, it'll pull up to 20* of timing out. With the dist base setting "jacked", it seems to be the most likely cause....

 

It sounds like something is wrong if the scanner will not communicate with the ECM. Put a stock chip in it and try connecting the scanner. You could be running in limp mode.

Don't run the distributor at a different base timing setting than the chip. Set both to 6 degrees and tune the timing through the ECM tables.

J

 

i orderd a aldl cable from moates, i am using tuner pro whith an ostrich, i assume that this is norm , a buddy has similar set up
tried the snap-on scanner on his same prob......cable has not come in yet for aldl but i read on tunerpro website it can do realtime monitoring on all sensors from what i understand...

will try putting all settings back to stock and not (lying)to the ecm
and see what happens........just afraid to drive it with glowing headers

 

I would go back to stock and try that like you said. The Moates box must mess with the checksum and therefore the Snap-on scanner won't connect.

 

changed timing in ecm to 14 degree to match dist changed inj to 26lbs started car seems to run ok, a little hard starting compared to before ,but it still starts...got the infamos (lean pop) throgh the intake performed adjustments as stated in the post on the tunning page,and it went away the headers also seemed to stop glowing!!!!!!!only camplaint is, seems to be running out of fuel or falling flat at 5500rpm is 1st gear.. is there any posts on how to adjust the timing table and fule enrichment????? i have been reading the (The Definitive $32 $32b Tuning Article) but i am using $6e mask andcant find the table referd to in the article......so i am assuming that the $6e mask is different.. any helpyou guys can give me is great ,i have been reading as much as possible and trying to understand as much as possible thank for the help

 

Good to hear that the headers stopped glowing. I am happy that you took the advice to go back to stock and start there.

Depending on your setup it could be falling at 5.5k due to mechanical (i.e. TPI, big ci, cam) or simply running out of fuel or maybe too much fuel. A first guess is that with your setup that you are running out of fuel. Check out how the stock O2 was reading. If it went constant at less the .5 volts then it is leaner than 14.7:1 AFR. If that is the case start adding fuel. You will have to guess at how much unless you get a Wideband O2. I don't use any MAF code so I can't really help you there. The 6E and 32B should be identical to tune in terms of fuel and spark. Check for some stickies on it. I think someone did some write ups on it before.

I tune part throttle using the BLM value mostly while keeping an eye on the WB-O2 reading. I tune WOT strictly by the WB-O2 and looking at the plugs. Track times help a little and a dyno would be real nice, but not worth it for the low power range that I am in. Drag ET calculators are close enough estimates for the power range I am in. Who really wants to brag about 300hp these days. I don't run a lot of timing so I don't go by the "listening" for knock method.

One thing I would do first is set the distributor back to 6 degrees and the PROM back to 6 degrees and add timing through the PROM for idle if yo think you need more. It will make the battery & starter last longer. There is really no reason to set it so high like you have it.

J

 

what is the cheksum suppost to be?? in my bin it is set for aa=disable

 

The checksum is supposed by the calculated value for the bin which is not "AA". GM put in an engineering mode of using AA and some of the emulators out there use that. Some of the scanners look at that and see that it is not correct.
Some emulators have eeprom on them and store the correct checksum.

Setting the checksum to AA is fine

J