Scheister

ok, in my other posts people really havent been able to give me a clear answer so i thought id ask the experts.

1) why do some cams say computer controlled and what does that mean?

2) what would happen if i put a non-computer controlled cam in my TPI car?

3) what would happen if i put a computer controlled cam in my car that said required a modified computer when i had a stock prom or hypertech prom?

Grumpy

1) It just means that it's fairly mild, and should be easy to tune. Thou, for some companies, it means EPA friendly.

2) Depends on you level of expertise in tuning the *chip*. Installing a big cam, without proper tuning can make for an engine that knocks the corners off the pistons, or miserable drivibility (just to name a couple of things).

3) For a cam to be user friendly with the stock programming, isn't going to be very big. A search here will reveal alot of opinions about what's really in a Hyertech chip. ie not much. For the price of a aftermarket chip, you'd be well into funding being to DIY your own.

Teeleton

The cam in my TBI V6 is not considered to be ECM friendly, but it runs like a top now that I have it tuned. Just start slow and get idle tuned first, then light cruise, then highway, and then finally WOT. It's also a good idea to err on the side of being too rich or too little timing, and sneak up on it from that direction.

Teeleton

Scheister

thanks guys! those answers are helping a lot more than the answers from my other posts.

now some more questions. will any or all of these cams work with the stock chip, or will they run like crap? i guess i dont understand why the 2 cams that ive seen listed as computer controlled are so more expesive than the others and dont even include the lifters. ive listed cams in different price ranges and only 2 of them say computer controlled. ill be running with with ported and polished heads, k&n filters and occasional (95)shot of nitrous.

Cam1
Brand: Edelbrock
Basic Operating RPM Range: Idle-5,500 RPM
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204 int./214 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.420 int./0.442 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112

Cam2
Brand: Summit
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,500-4,000 RPM
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204 int./214 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.420 int./0.442 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112

Cam3
Brand: Competition Cams
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,000-5,000 RPM
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 206 int./212 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.425 int./0.440 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112

Cam4
Brand: Competition Cams
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,500-5,500 RPM
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 212 int./218 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.444 int./0.444 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 114

Cam5
Brand: Competition Cams
Basic Operating RPM Range: 600-4,600 RPM
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 206 int./212 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.432 int./0.444 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110

so will any/all of these cams work? if it wont work, what will happen?

or should my question be: whats the biggest cam i can run without freaking out the stock computer?

Teeleton

If you're seeing a large difference in price between cams, you're probably comparing roller cams (~$300) to non-roller cams (~$100). The roller cams cost a lot more because they use hardened steel.

Teeleton

Grumpy

The computer never freaks out, it's always, just figuring out data with what the programmer's told it. There are some folks that can run some pretty wild cams, but, they've been tuning for a while. For the new guy, I'd suggest you start with tuning a stock engine, and learn the basics with that. kind of that walk before trying to run, thing.

There are cars running 9s with stock ecms, if that tells you anything.

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

i ran a 210/216 @.05 and was mild. now seems a simple cam to tune. peak HP was at 5100 rpms. swapped in a 224/230 @ .05 10/2004. both were 114 LSA computer cams. peak HP is 5800 and revs to 6000 easily. now the issue is i can fuel it at 5800 with higher FP but issue then is at idle things get strange. still need to sort that out. have had little time to do so. i think all the cams you listed will need the tune that you may be trying to avoid..

Teeleton

My cam is fairly similar to that. (222/230@.05, 112lsa) I've found that a little extra timing at idle helps a lot. A loose converter helps too (if it's even an auto).

Teeleton

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

i agree. i was running 21 deg in idle cell(s). i changed to 15 deg and seemed to degrade the off idle tip in(manual). back to 21 deg.

Scheister

well it seems when i ordered a cam i got the numbers mixed up on 2 cams and ended up with the wilder of the 2 . its specs are:

Duration at 050 inch Lift: 212 int./218 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.444 int./0.444 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 114

im not going to get a SES light or anything like that will i? i understand it wont run at its best without tuning, but will i have any problems in the way the car runs with it?

Captain C

The first two cams on your list were basically a stock replacement cam for the 85 TPI. The one you have now has a little more duration but I don't see it being a problem. It won't run up to its potential without programming changes but should still run decent.

The first problem you are going to run into is your computer being very slow. The factory chip (if you have a decent one, and not all 85's were) has a lot of timing in it to begin with. It should run fairly decent. You will probably have a lope in it due to the slow adjusting and limited tables in the 85 (870) computer. My car idled way better with the 86-89 (165) computer in it. I don't have a readout on the 85 chip so I can't say if timing in the program was the reason or just a faster adjustment. I do know that it made corrections much faster......

I would suggest swapping to a 165 computer with the 1989 6E code. You will need to do some changes to your wiring harness (all documentation available on this board in the stickies) but the connectors are identical. If you get a PROMinator (only one I am familiar with) or some other similar product (Romulator, Ostrich, etc) you can make changes fast and the basic PROMinator doesn't cost but about the same as a Hypertech chip and a third of the price of a TPIS chip........

Main thing is, do a lot of research on this site and try to understand what you are changing in the programming and why you are changing it before you change anything. Make small changes and document everything!!!!

BTW, I know a lot of guys on these boards are death on larger throttle bodies, but a 52MM unit got rid of the third gear lug when running my 85 computer. Then again, I was running a 350 at the time and not my original 305..... (it also never made a difference at all on the third gear upshift with the 165 computer)

Scheister

thats exactly what i was hoping to hear! i just wanted to make sure i wasnt going to screw anything up before i put the cam in. ive been reading threw the stickies for the past 3 days now and they are becoming a little clearer, i just wish i had all the stuff to start at least reading PROMs because im a hands on learner. one thing i havent found yet is whats BL and BLM short for?

also, i have the hypertech chip, but ive read that there arent very many changes in it. should i still be ok?