Tuning Experts- Will this Cam Work??
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Tuning Experts- Will this Cam Work??
Simple question- Building a 400 small block. Plan to use a 165 ecm with MAF, Dart heads, probably a stealth ram, and was thinking about this cam-
Comp Cams 12-423-8 Retro fit Hydraulic Roller (XR 276 HR)
224 / 230 duration .502 / .510 lift, 110 LSA
Catalog says choppy idle.
With the wealth of tuning experience out there, tell me guys, Can I make this cam work with the 165 ECM or has someone already done it and can give me feedback?? I don't mind putting the time in to tune it, I just do not want to chase my tail and throw my money away at the same time...Curious if it has enough vacuum at idle, will it idle smooth enough? will the ecm have a fit?
Opinions anyone??
Comp Cams 12-423-8 Retro fit Hydraulic Roller (XR 276 HR)
224 / 230 duration .502 / .510 lift, 110 LSA
Catalog says choppy idle.
With the wealth of tuning experience out there, tell me guys, Can I make this cam work with the 165 ECM or has someone already done it and can give me feedback?? I don't mind putting the time in to tune it, I just do not want to chase my tail and throw my money away at the same time...Curious if it has enough vacuum at idle, will it idle smooth enough? will the ecm have a fit?
Opinions anyone??
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you don't want to run a 110lsa on fuel injection. 112-114 lsa is a much better choice. There will be more vacuum with a wider lsa.... As you know I have a 400SBC. My cam is 242/250* and it runs fine. I would get rid of the maf system though. You have more "tune-ability" with the 730. With a big cubed engine I maintain the 730 ecm will produce more power under the curve.
No matter what, you'll be much happier with a different profile. I'm convinced it worth paying a living legend $35 to spec the perfect cam. That is what I'm going to do when I try something new on my 400. He claims that just a cam with his specs can net over 100hp. PLEASE share the specs if you get them from him. I'm curious what he suggest for your combo.
http://www.davidvizard.com/camshaft.html
Another thing you didn't mention....the intake. That has a big role on what cam you need.....
No matter what, you'll be much happier with a different profile. I'm convinced it worth paying a living legend $35 to spec the perfect cam. That is what I'm going to do when I try something new on my 400. He claims that just a cam with his specs can net over 100hp. PLEASE share the specs if you get them from him. I'm curious what he suggest for your combo.
http://www.davidvizard.com/camshaft.html
Another thing you didn't mention....the intake. That has a big role on what cam you need.....
#3
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Originally posted by 11sORbust
[B]you don't want to run a 110lsa on fuel injection. 112-114 lsa is a much better choice. There will be more vacuum with a wider lsa.... As you know I have a 400SBC...
[B]you don't want to run a 110lsa on fuel injection. 112-114 lsa is a much better choice. There will be more vacuum with a wider lsa.... As you know I have a 400SBC...
I'm convinced it worth paying a living legend $35 to spec the perfect cam. That is what I'm going to do when I try something new on my 400. He claims that just a cam with his specs can net over 100hp. PLEASE share the specs if you get them from him. I'm curious what he suggest for your combo.
http://www.davidvizard.com/camshaft.html
Last edited by Dominic Sorresso; 11-19-2004 at 12:06 PM.
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I disagree as well...I am getting ready to install a cam with 109LSA and I am told it can be done. Its a matter of tuning. I do agree that 730 setup would be better as well. I have a 406 and swapped from MAF.
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The wider LSA's like the 112-114 are more efi friendly, and may take less time to tune. That same cam you are looking at from Comp is available in a 113 or 114 (cant remember which it is), it is known as a "305" cam, for a newer roller block 350. You can use it in a non-roller block by using the correct oem roller cam timing chain set. This cam is also listed for sale right now in the thridgen classifieds. Im not the one selling it though.
#6
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SB,
The Vizard article is very illuminating. Highly recommended reading for those that are considering cam swaps and upgrades.
One of the points he makes is that most people treat duration and LSA almost interchangeably. Meaning that its urban legend that you can increase duration to make up for the wider LSA. Vizard believes that for a given set of heads and rpm range, there is only one optimum cam profile.
Here's excellent reading on gas flow dynamics and the impact on cam specification.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/18218/
The Vizard article is very illuminating. Highly recommended reading for those that are considering cam swaps and upgrades.
One of the points he makes is that most people treat duration and LSA almost interchangeably. Meaning that its urban legend that you can increase duration to make up for the wider LSA. Vizard believes that for a given set of heads and rpm range, there is only one optimum cam profile.
Here's excellent reading on gas flow dynamics and the impact on cam specification.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/18218/
Last edited by Dominic Sorresso; 11-19-2004 at 03:49 PM.
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with respect to the total overlap which reduces engine vacuum, both LSA and total duration affect it.
that is to say, a 108 LSA cam with 210/220 duration, is going to have less overlap (and more idle vacuum) than, say, a 230/240 cam on a 114 LSA, everything else being equal.
you have to look at the overal profile and not just a single number.
that is to say, a 108 LSA cam with 210/220 duration, is going to have less overlap (and more idle vacuum) than, say, a 230/240 cam on a 114 LSA, everything else being equal.
you have to look at the overal profile and not just a single number.
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#8
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Originally posted by 91L98Z28
with respect to the total overlap which reduces engine vacuum, both LSA and total duration affect it.
that is to say, a 108 LSA cam with 210/220 duration, is going to have less overlap (and more idle vacuum) than, say, a 230/240 cam on a 114 LSA, everything else being equal.
you have to look at the overal profile and not just a single number.
with respect to the total overlap which reduces engine vacuum, both LSA and total duration affect it.
that is to say, a 108 LSA cam with 210/220 duration, is going to have less overlap (and more idle vacuum) than, say, a 230/240 cam on a 114 LSA, everything else being equal.
you have to look at the overal profile and not just a single number.
The point of the article is not that you would only look at overlap, but rather the correct spec'ing of a cam begins with the correct overlap for a given motor displacement/cylinder head configuration along with the desired rpm operating range. In my particular case, vacuum dropped only marginally even though my new cam has 10d or almost 25% more overlap than my previous cam. Also, you'll want to measure overlap using adv. duration.
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Yeah, I have read that before. Good link to have though.
It still stands though, that two cams with identical lobe profiles,lift, and duration, yet having two different LSA's, the wider LSA will of course have less overlap. I was suggesting the same exact cam he wants, yet with a wider LSA. The 305 Comp, being fairly well known, is spec'd by Comp as a TPI/EFI cam, the other isnt. Not that either one couldnt be tuned, but the wider lsa should be simpler.
It still stands though, that two cams with identical lobe profiles,lift, and duration, yet having two different LSA's, the wider LSA will of course have less overlap. I was suggesting the same exact cam he wants, yet with a wider LSA. The 305 Comp, being fairly well known, is spec'd by Comp as a TPI/EFI cam, the other isnt. Not that either one couldnt be tuned, but the wider lsa should be simpler.
#10
Intake closing has a large effect on how an engine runs too.
So how the lsa is changed is very important.
Not something most if any of the tech line gurus know more about than it will affect cylinder pressure.
In short, the sooner the intake closes, the less time for reversion. Regardless of lsa. So I fail to understand why no one has tried a 108-110 lsa with a short 262 or so cam & EFI. It will make a lot more mid range torque.
Actually I do "see". Nobody looking for HP runs that small a cam except with a turbo. Or a small CID engine. But that would rule out the looking for HP part.....
So how the lsa is changed is very important.
Not something most if any of the tech line gurus know more about than it will affect cylinder pressure.
In short, the sooner the intake closes, the less time for reversion. Regardless of lsa. So I fail to understand why no one has tried a 108-110 lsa with a short 262 or so cam & EFI. It will make a lot more mid range torque.
Actually I do "see". Nobody looking for HP runs that small a cam except with a turbo. Or a small CID engine. But that would rule out the looking for HP part.....
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Originally posted by SBNova
Yeah, I have read that before. Good link to have though.
It still stands though, that two cams with identical lobe profiles,lift, and duration, yet having two different LSA's, the wider LSA will of course have less overlap. I was suggesting the same exact cam he wants, yet with a wider LSA. The 305 Comp, being fairly well known, is spec'd by Comp as a TPI/EFI cam, the other isnt. Not that either one couldnt be tuned, but the wider lsa should be simpler.
Yeah, I have read that before. Good link to have though.
It still stands though, that two cams with identical lobe profiles,lift, and duration, yet having two different LSA's, the wider LSA will of course have less overlap. I was suggesting the same exact cam he wants, yet with a wider LSA. The 305 Comp, being fairly well known, is spec'd by Comp as a TPI/EFI cam, the other isnt. Not that either one couldnt be tuned, but the wider lsa should be simpler.
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Originally posted by Z69
Intake closing has a large effect on how an engine runs too.
Intake closing has a large effect on how an engine runs too.
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Re: Tuning Experts- Will this Cam Work??
Originally posted by Br1dgeman
Simple question- Building a 400 small block. Plan to use a 165 ecm with MAF, Dart heads, probably a stealth ram, and was thinking about this cam-
Comp Cams 12-423-8 Retro fit Hydraulic Roller (XR 276 HR)
224 / 230 duration .502 / .510 lift, 110 LSA
Catalog says choppy idle.
With the wealth of tuning experience out there, tell me guys, Can I make this cam work with the 165 ECM or has someone already done it and can give me feedback?? I don't mind putting the time in to tune it, I just do not want to chase my tail and throw my money away at the same time...Curious if it has enough vacuum at idle, will it idle smooth enough? will the ecm have a fit?
Opinions anyone??
Simple question- Building a 400 small block. Plan to use a 165 ecm with MAF, Dart heads, probably a stealth ram, and was thinking about this cam-
Comp Cams 12-423-8 Retro fit Hydraulic Roller (XR 276 HR)
224 / 230 duration .502 / .510 lift, 110 LSA
Catalog says choppy idle.
With the wealth of tuning experience out there, tell me guys, Can I make this cam work with the 165 ECM or has someone already done it and can give me feedback?? I don't mind putting the time in to tune it, I just do not want to chase my tail and throw my money away at the same time...Curious if it has enough vacuum at idle, will it idle smooth enough? will the ecm have a fit?
Opinions anyone??
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Originally posted by 11sORbust
No matter what, you'll be much happier with a different profile. I'm convinced it worth paying a living legend $35 to spec the perfect cam. That is what I'm going to do when I try something new on my 400. He claims that just a cam with his specs can net over 100hp. PLEASE share the specs if you get them from him. I'm curious what he suggest for your combo.
http://www.davidvizard.com/camshaft.html
No matter what, you'll be much happier with a different profile. I'm convinced it worth paying a living legend $35 to spec the perfect cam. That is what I'm going to do when I try something new on my 400. He claims that just a cam with his specs can net over 100hp. PLEASE share the specs if you get them from him. I'm curious what he suggest for your combo.
http://www.davidvizard.com/camshaft.html
#15
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Ben,
Try cammasters@msn.com That's the email address for Motors and Machines where I sent my cam form. Attn Denny.
Try cammasters@msn.com That's the email address for Motors and Machines where I sent my cam form. Attn Denny.
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I have a 242-254 .555 .585 110 lsa cam in my 383 with maf, gets 9-10" vacuum and needs a canister if you want the idle lower than 1200, but other than that it drives fine after tuning.
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I think there are just to many variables to even begin to try to build a model for the proper cam. usually i use rollers. rollers are good for sevral reasons. cams swaps are less exspensive, no break in hassles. if your building a motor and dont expect to change the cam timming, cam, rockers etc i think your fooling yourself. i always tell my engine customers that there might be 3,4,5 cams to really hash the thing out to satisfaction. but youll need to collect data etc.
Also more important then the cams are the heads and manifolds intake and exhuast. they play such a large role in power production. if everything is properly optimized then ideally the camshaft should only set the stage for the power band. the heads and manifolding realy control the mazimum output.
Also more important then the cams are the heads and manifolds intake and exhuast. they play such a large role in power production. if everything is properly optimized then ideally the camshaft should only set the stage for the power band. the heads and manifolding realy control the mazimum output.
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Originally posted by funstick
Also more important then the cams are the heads and manifolds intake and exhuast. they play such a large role in power production. if everything is properly optimized then ideally the camshaft should only set the stage for the power band. the heads and manifolding realy control the mazimum output.
Also more important then the cams are the heads and manifolds intake and exhuast. they play such a large role in power production. if everything is properly optimized then ideally the camshaft should only set the stage for the power band. the heads and manifolding realy control the mazimum output.
Remind me let you know what a buddy and I discovered about high rpms, big cams, and hydraulic rollers.
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Originally posted by funstick
if your building a motor and dont expect to change the cam timming, cam, rockers etc i think your fooling yourself. i always tell my engine customers that there might be 3,4,5 cams to really hash the thing out to satisfaction.
if your building a motor and dont expect to change the cam timming, cam, rockers etc i think your fooling yourself. i always tell my engine customers that there might be 3,4,5 cams to really hash the thing out to satisfaction.
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Originally posted by Glenn91L98GTA
I couldn't agree more Sean.
Remind me let you know what a buddy and I discovered about high rpms, big cams, and hydraulic rollers.
I couldn't agree more Sean.
Remind me let you know what a buddy and I discovered about high rpms, big cams, and hydraulic rollers.
typically if the tune requires loads of timming all around the cam is just way to big.
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I had a total of 4 different cams in my stock 350 shortblock .. ranging from short duration to mid 230/240 duration. I've played with big LSA cams and low LSA cams. I never had any problem tuning them to run. There was a difference in the amount of time required to make them run really good. The low LSA cam required more time ... but rewarded me with much more performance. The old myth of using big LSA cams (112+) is dead. It's just that nobody knows this since most people continue to spout off that garbage about needing a 112+ LSA cam in an EFI vehicle. I'm currently working on another car with a 108LSA cam. No problem. If you are looking for big power then go with a lower LSA cam as long as you have the knowledge and some experience tuning chips. You run the potential of losing your power brakes. You might need a vacuum pump. But, once you get the tune worked out ... the car will be unstoppable.
Tim
Tim
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Originally posted by TRAXION
I had a total of 4 different cams in my stock 350 shortblock .. ranging from short duration to mid 230/240 duration. I've played with big LSA cams and low LSA cams. I never had any problem tuning them to run. There was a difference in the amount of time required to make them run really good. The low LSA cam required more time ... but rewarded me with much more performance. The old myth of using big LSA cams (112+) is dead. It's just that nobody knows this since most people continue to spout off that garbage about needing a 112+ LSA cam in an EFI vehicle. I'm currently working on another car with a 108LSA cam. No problem. If you are looking for big power then go with a lower LSA cam as long as you have the knowledge and some experience tuning chips. You run the potential of losing your power brakes. You might need a vacuum pump. But, once you get the tune worked out ... the car will be unstoppable.
Tim
I had a total of 4 different cams in my stock 350 shortblock .. ranging from short duration to mid 230/240 duration. I've played with big LSA cams and low LSA cams. I never had any problem tuning them to run. There was a difference in the amount of time required to make them run really good. The low LSA cam required more time ... but rewarded me with much more performance. The old myth of using big LSA cams (112+) is dead. It's just that nobody knows this since most people continue to spout off that garbage about needing a 112+ LSA cam in an EFI vehicle. I'm currently working on another car with a 108LSA cam. No problem. If you are looking for big power then go with a lower LSA cam as long as you have the knowledge and some experience tuning chips. You run the potential of losing your power brakes. You might need a vacuum pump. But, once you get the tune worked out ... the car will be unstoppable.
Tim
#25
Intake closing has a large effect on how an engine runs too.
Intake opening point determines how much reversion you'll get.
For instance, a number of years ago a mag ran an article on a 475ci BBC that made 19" vac at idle with an 108 lsa cam.
Not a normal "truck" lsa number.
Asymetrical grind cams make this stuff even more confusing.
Since the cam lobe will not be symetrical on both sides of the CL.
From what I can tell from my carb experience. The bigger the cam, the harder the idle range will be to tune. The 600-1200 range.
as you go up in duration, then the part throttle will need more attention. For instance, my 383 doesn't reach max vacuum at cruise until about 2300rpm. I cruise on the idle circuit of my 750DP. Converter and gears will affect this too. I'd imagine that a 3k stall makes it a little easier.
#26
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Originally posted by TRAXION
I had a total of 4 different cams in my stock 350 shortblock .. ranging from short duration to mid 230/240 duration. I've played with big LSA cams and low LSA cams. I never had any problem tuning them to run. There was a difference in the amount of time required to make them run really good. The low LSA cam required more time ... but rewarded me with much more performance. The old myth of using big LSA cams (112+) is dead. It's just that nobody knows this since most people continue to spout off that garbage about needing a 112+ LSA cam in an EFI vehicle. I'm currently working on another car with a 108LSA cam. No problem. If you are looking for big power then go with a lower LSA cam as long as you have the knowledge and some experience tuning chips. You run the potential of losing your power brakes. You might need a vacuum pump. But, once you get the tune worked out ... the car will be unstoppable.
Tim
I had a total of 4 different cams in my stock 350 shortblock .. ranging from short duration to mid 230/240 duration. I've played with big LSA cams and low LSA cams. I never had any problem tuning them to run. There was a difference in the amount of time required to make them run really good. The low LSA cam required more time ... but rewarded me with much more performance. The old myth of using big LSA cams (112+) is dead. It's just that nobody knows this since most people continue to spout off that garbage about needing a 112+ LSA cam in an EFI vehicle. I'm currently working on another car with a 108LSA cam. No problem. If you are looking for big power then go with a lower LSA cam as long as you have the knowledge and some experience tuning chips. You run the potential of losing your power brakes. You might need a vacuum pump. But, once you get the tune worked out ... the car will be unstoppable.
Tim
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Originally posted by Z69
I said that wrong...
Intake opening point determines how much reversion you'll get.
For instance, a number of years ago a mag ran an article on a 475ci BBC that made 19" vac at idle with an 108 lsa cam.
Not a normal "truck" lsa number.
Asymetrical grind cams make this stuff even more confusing.
Since the cam lobe will not be symetrical on both sides of the CL.
From what I can tell from my carb experience. The bigger the cam, the harder the idle range will be to tune. The 600-1200 range.
as you go up in duration, then the part throttle will need more attention. For instance, my 383 doesn't reach max vacuum at cruise until about 2300rpm. I cruise on the idle circuit of my 750DP. Converter and gears will affect this too. I'd imagine that a 3k stall makes it a little easier.
I said that wrong...
Intake opening point determines how much reversion you'll get.
For instance, a number of years ago a mag ran an article on a 475ci BBC that made 19" vac at idle with an 108 lsa cam.
Not a normal "truck" lsa number.
Asymetrical grind cams make this stuff even more confusing.
Since the cam lobe will not be symetrical on both sides of the CL.
From what I can tell from my carb experience. The bigger the cam, the harder the idle range will be to tune. The 600-1200 range.
as you go up in duration, then the part throttle will need more attention. For instance, my 383 doesn't reach max vacuum at cruise until about 2300rpm. I cruise on the idle circuit of my 750DP. Converter and gears will affect this too. I'd imagine that a 3k stall makes it a little easier.
Before anyone starts to jump on my throat and say "That's wrong", I want to make it clear that I do notT profess to be a camshaft designer or an expert on the science. But all camshaft designs try to have the intake close a particular point just after BDC for maximum cylinder filling. Everything else, moves from there. That is why I agree with your original comment.
If people are interested, I will try and dig up some of the web sites I have found on this subject.
I also agree with Tim aka Traxion's comments that "once a person has learnt eprom burning and tried a couple of different setups, that narrow LSAs are not a big deal for tuning".
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The old myth of using big LSA cams (112+) is dead. It's just that nobody knows this since most people continue to spout off that garbage about needing a 112+ LSA cam in an EFI vehicle
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19-20" of vacum????
and to clarify, I never said a tight lda cam wouldn't work. I never gave a cam spec for Al's engine because I'm not in the guessing game. David Vizard has TESTED hundreds of cams. His program (cam master) can help make over 100hp just by a cam change. Vizard is a living legend and you can actually have him spec a cam for you. I could be building engines for 20 years and never compare to his program or knowledge (for cam selection)....I would say $35 is a steal!
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