88TPI406GTA

After reading this thread, I think this may be the bin for me...Here is why...

I recently bought a project car (91 Camaro) that has a DFI 6 that I am converting back to TPI. The car has a stock L98 with the following mods: SLP Cold Air, SLP headers, full cat back, 52 MM TB, larger runners.

The car is a T-5 car and while I know that Super AUJP is an auto bin...it should work fine for my application, right? This car will most likely be seeing some winter duty and I want to keep a stockish bin for cold weather.

This bin should be better for me starting out than a manual 305 bin would be, just changing the volume for a 350, right?

Opinions welcome...I don't mean to hijack the thread, so thanks in advance.

Black 91 Z28

Went to version 2. Took care of my hesitation/stuttering from a dead stop under light throttle.

Thanks

TRAXION

Cool. It sounds like you may have needed more pump shot with your original calibration?

Tim

Black 91 Z28

Yeah I think it may have needed it. I'm still in that novice stage so I'm looking to see what you've changed and the results that came from it and then trying to figure out why it was changed.

Thanks

88TPI406GTA

Anyone with comments? Anyone with stick who is using it perhaps?

TIA...

elohssa

I am using it in my 1992 305 5spd T/A and it works fine, just adjust all the constants that are relevant to the transmission to whatever your stock .bin is and also your shift light won't work with this bin

88TPI406GTA

Great...that is what I wanted to verify!

Thanks for the response...this swap back to SD from DFI sucks...so this component is settled...for now ;0

Black 91 Z28

nm

nape

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure if it's my mind playing tricks on me, but I plugged in my spark table, TCC lockup speeds, and fan temps and Super AUJP v2 seems to have better driveablility for me.

Good work TRAXION.

Craig Moates

Sorry if this has already been covered. I admittedly haven't done my 'homework', at least not today.

Is there a patch specifically for S_AUJP for wideband input? I guess it just routes to the commanded AFR variable? Even though I like to plot commanded AFR along with actual AFR via WB...

Anyways, just seeing what I should use as a starting point. Just moved to MAP from MAF and so far am VERY happy!

So to summarize, is there an *.ads file and corresponding patch/hack which has the actual WB AFR routed to another ALDL variable other than the commanded AFR? If just routed to the requested AFR that's fine too. I know there are the existing patches out there, just wanted to make sure there's not a conflict in the S_AUJP mods with respect to a WB hack.

Many thanks,
-Craig

elohssa

I think it's even on your site in the miscelaneous uploads section "afrtuner.zip"

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

The patch is a few lines of code. You can use tim's program, or do it by hand like I did.

-- Joe

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

I had to go back to my "v1" IAC settings to eliminate DFCO stalling when I came to a stop.
My VE's are right around 128 now (+/- 3) and it was consistently dropping the idle too low, seemed like the IAC was only getting to about 80-90 at idle and my motor runs best when I have about 120-130 count.
Anything you might suggest to look at?
I am now getting that slow lag from idle (like you stated the reason for V2. Not real bad but is better with the V2 settings.
I tried some intermediate numbers but ended up just going back to the original values. The idle follows good there when slowing from greater than 35 MPH.
Other than that issue, I got good power all the way to about 4600 (stock intake blues ).
I know there's more in there, I'm thinking of beginning to add some spark now till I hit the knock sensor, then go back and re-tweak the VEs.
TIA.

Black 91 Z28

Maybe try reseting the minimum idle? (Physicially not via computer)

69 Ghost

iTrader: (1)

I know this a bit off the topic for this post. I am in the process of moving from a TPI unit to a LT1 intake along with a set of AFR's. I am no doubt using the S_AUJP as the baseline bin to start with and I will be copying VE tables from a LT1 or LT4 bin. That part is not an issue but I would like an opinion on which spark tables to use as a baseline or how to modify them as well as the power enrichment. Both of these have been modified in S_AUJP. I was thinking of just matching the tables from a LT1 bin from a aluminum head car. I do know that the reverse cooling does allow these cars to run a more agressive spark curve. I am also aware of using 10-20% more power enrichment for a LT1 to eliminate the stumble issues. Here is where I question if it is just better to copy a LT1 spark table, enrichment table, etc or modify S_AUJP for a new baseline. Any help would be appreciated and I have no problem sharing the new baseline bin. With that said I would also like to throw out a suggestion. I have suggested a extended VE table as part of the baseline and Traxion has considered it but is concerned about somebody writing code in the prom location. Maybe instead of just having 2 baselines we can add baselines accordingly such as S_AUJP_VEExt_V2 etc.

BTW I have posted a new Super_8d.ecu on TunerPro's website adding some throttle follower stuff to align with S_AUJP_V2.

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Thanks 69Ghost for all the work on the ecu file. :hail:
Adding the extensions would be good (along with the change list) to ID which config you are running.
Keeps us noobs on level ground
I must say staying with the base file is good for starters but identifiying each code change with extensions could be unlimted to the point of confusion.
Possible naming in stages?
Stage 1 = stock code with beginners items turned off (hyway, egr, ccp, etc) for beginning with VE setups mainly.
Stage 2= extended tables, some other small code work maybe.
stage 3 = ext tables, WB added,
Stage 4 = using I/O other than stock configs (Nitrous?)
Stage 5 = special code work, 2-3 bar stuff, etc

Each of those could then have a Version attached to them to keep everyone straight.
Hopefully the work done for "base" improvements could translate down to the lower stages and versions to keep all up to date and accurrate.
Just a thought to allow all of the potential changes to be arranged in a way that people don't get in over their heads to quickly in the beginning and have a way for the advanced group to still chug on with enhanced developments.:

69 Ghost

iTrader: (1)

Not a bad idea. How about a Stage II where we say add everything we can think of that can be done that would not cause adverse affects so that it can be run even if some of it is not used. For instance extended VE tables, WB patch, etc. After all that is done a baseline for Aluminum heads -for my own selfish interests with the same. A baseline for Nitrous, Short runner intakes, etc.

Craig Moates

I've got an alternative WB patch if anyone is interested. Only 3 bytes to change, and the WB signal comes in at the DIAG2 input (B7). Comes into the ALDL as the Fuel Pump Voltage, just a raw 0-255 corresponding to 0-5v. You can mod an existing ADS file real easy.

This way, you can keep your 'Target AFR' for tuning/comparative purposes.

11sORbust

Lay it on me!!!









(wow, even Craig is mafless now )

Craig Moates

At 5993, value is $60, which is A/D channel 6. Need to change to channel $A0 (10=DIAG2)
At 59B6, value is $04, change to $03 so volt read goes to batt not pump.
At 59CE, same ($04->$03)
This is one more than in the HAC, so might be a bit fubared?

There's an $0104 at $6120, but it is not apparently related.

Will be number 35 in ALDL stream. Come in as 0-255=0-5v.

Once you read through the hack, it becomes more clear.

Let me know if clarification is needed.

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Cool!

11sORbust

91DropTopTA

Is there a fuel pressure that would be recommended as a starting point for tuning with this bin?

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

I'm running 49-50 psi with stock 22# injectors.
My inj constant is set at 26 and it runs well.

This bin is not a ready to run solution and must have the VE tables and spark tables twaeked for your application.
The bin file is a "starting" point for getting you engine tuned.
It should run OK with the base settings if you make the appropriate constant changes.
Other items ahve been enable/disabled to aid in getting you a good basis for tuning.
It helped me out very well and now have a good everyday driver that pulls hard. From there I need to do the PE and AE stuff as well as the higher load/high rev table entries to optimize and remove any flat spots etc.
Hope it works well for you too.
Jp

11sORbust

There is not a fuel pressure that is recommended for tuning. ALL injectors are designed to run at a certain PSI. Make sure of the pressure matches that. Bosh injectors are set to 41psi and svo's are rated at 39psi, from what I recall. Not sure about the others. Don't increase your fuel pressure. If the injectors are @ 100% duty cycle, replace them with bigger ones. There is no reason to run the wrong injectors. They can be had for maybe $100 on ebay or the local swap meet. Raising the fuel pressure is worst than a crutch, the entire ecm calibration is depending on a certain pressure to work. Even the "injector PW vs batt voltage" table is thrown off..

Tuning by fuel pressure is an old school way to control fueling. Before people could get inside the ecm.... For timing people would jack the base timing at the distributor. For AE they would jack the TPS volts up(on maf cars). Some used MAT simulators, for some ecms. Or even simulate the coolant temp sensor. Why do any of that when you can get inside the chip and change anything?

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

That is excellent clarification to bring to the surface for beginners!
I have done the wrong thing by leaving my fuel pressure as high as it is. I have a pretty good tune right now, but if I need "limp" mode I'll be barely running due to the higher pressure.
I'll probably bring it back down and start tuning over again in the spring. Winter is going to be the "pretty it up" time now that I know everything is capable of working correctly.

Dave_Jones

Seems to me that if you're doing much in the way of mods, limp home mode isn't going to run well anyway. I'd strongly suggest carrying a spare ECM, and a spare EPROM, instead of counting on limp home mode to save you.

devilfish

what changes needs to be done to use this bin in my 1991 vette 6spd?

Cheers

devilfish

I guess that whas a tuff one...

sorry..

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Have there been any modifications added to the "super8_dm*.ecu files?
The _dm2 file is the last one posted on boards from what I find.

I've been seeing versions like 2-1, and 3-3-04 in posts.
Where are these files coming from?

If there are any new additions or problems found with the files located on Mark or Craig's sites, I would ask if they would be posted for all. (or at least post your findings)

If we all use the same files then discussing things is easier to follow. From what i've seen, the 2-1 version "may" be corrupt or something. The guy wasn't able to edit bins with it.

Just kindly suggesting.

branz28

Just curious, has S-AUJP gone any further?

TRAXION

In what respects? Do you have any ideas?

Tim

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

There was talk of possibly 1 large table for VE rather than two.
I'm looking at tring to speed up the data output.
Move the higher rpm table into the mix as "stage-II" ?
Just Ideas.

branz28

Sorry, no ideas. I'm just now trying to convert to SD from MAF. So the whole concept is something i'm trying to get more familiar with... As much as i'd love to contribute i have nothing to go on.

gmgod

How about a manual super aujp?

86BirdSE

I know this was mentioned before, at the very least hinted at by Grumpy, but I think it merits mention what S_AUJP is and is not again for those of us (like me) new to this.

S_AUJP is NOT like a Hypertech, Jet, "performance" chip. This is NOT a plug-n-go chip for everyone running a 350/700r4 with tuned port injection.

S_AUJP IS an excellent way for those of us new to chip burning and DIY tuning to learn from our pioneering members experience and:

1.) Have a better understanding on how such code works to perform such changes ourselves. For example, numerous references in this post have particular code in them as does the text files associated with S_AUJP.

2.) Provide us newb's with "typical" mods that experienced tuners do automatically with a new binary, either by reloading and tweaking an old file, or by when modifying a stock binary. This way we can concentrate more on tweaking tables right off the bat.

I believe Traxion's intended useage of this file is so that one can compare a stock binary with a "typical" tuner's mods to stock configuration and have an EDUCATED STAB at a better starting point for new DIY-EFI tuners.

Even if your project is not totally together, or for whatever reason you can not "use" this binary in your vehicle, get a copy of tunercat and dive into code in both the stock AUJP and S_AUJP binary files. Also look at your stock manual-transmissioned ECM binary. Compare it t S_AUJP and apply what you see fit.

As someone who likes so see fairness and equality, this thread, in my opinion, looks like it is evolving into a prom begging thread. There's a lot of good stuff here that I would not like to see disappear because the rules being "tested."

86BirdSE

Having the above thoughts in mind, as well as the emissions rules recently reinstated in PA in my head, I'm learning how to do the following for my swap and my tweaks to S-AUJP.

I don't care what anyone says, I like running 89 Octane Gas. It's cheaper, and I do a lot of driving, as the costs add up for me. I may even test it with 3 gallons of 87 in my tank to see how it behaves. If it behaves poorly, a bottle of boost and a full tank of Sunoco 94 will fix that problem.

Since we've gone to visual inspections, I'm retaining my carburetor canister without the ECM controlled purge valve. Since the can is operated on a thermostatic switch, I'm putting the canister switch in place of the thermostat fan control on the lower manifold, and running the vacuum lines as needed, with a few other small mods to the lines. Again, the interpretations are at the discretion of the inspector, but the general consesus in non-sniffer counties is that everything must be in place.

I'm enabling the EGR valve to factory specs. I just need to tweak them for the best results. EGR was included to help combat detonation with low-octane gas.

I dropped the fan temps to correlate with my thermostat I changed them to 97*C on and 91*C off. I am running a 180 thermostat, with three 3/16" holes drilled on the flat metal part to help keep the coolant temp in check and reduce cavitation problems. Depending on how aggressive I want to run my timing/problems I encounter, I may drop it to a 160.

As far as the smog pump goes, again, it's a visual, not a computer deal, so if it's physically there, there is no problem.

gmgod

I was just replying to Traxion's response to Branz28, sure was'nt prom begging.... I just ordered all I need to burn/scan. On top of that I don't have a manual trans, but have read many threads asking what the best starting point for a 350 manual would be. The answer seems to be to compare a manual 305 bin to a l98 bin and make the appropriate changes. I don't know the exact depth of what this means...... maybe it is simple enough for a brand newbie to tackle, maybe it's challenging enough to turn a newbie off and make him consider a mail order chip, I don't know?

branz28

gmgod, Off the top of my head i can't remember the changes needed but i'm sure their in the archives if you do a search. Shouldn't be hard at all useing S-AUJP for a manual. Regardless a little tuning (or alot depends on your setup) would probably be needed to get you into "the ball park." But it'd be a good baseline to start at. I was just curious if there was any more development on this project. As much as i'd love to help (let me know if i can) i haven't come far enough into reading source code yet to be of much assistance. At least those are my thoughts. Just don't give up.... That would be called failure.

gmgod

I DON'T HAVE A MANUAL TRANS. Therefore I won't be giving up since I won't be trying in the first place. I was just giving trax a suggestion, for the reasons stated in my last reply...... seeing as how he asked for ideas

86BirdSE

Understood. I'm just worried something like this will get tagged and then it disappears.... this thread is what got me interested in chip editing, again I'm not pointing fingers, I'm just giving a general caveat.

The best way I think would be to look at stock binaries for each a manual and an automatic in TunerCat and note what the differences were in any fuel and spark tables. After that, look at what the transmission settings are between the two and make the apropriate adjustments as needed.

MTPFI-MAF

There are a lot, lot of differences, at least with $6e not sure in $8d. The throttle Follower, Tcc, IAC, ECT i just found a Manual Bin and Start there.

Just my .02

Gator91

I was just searching through all of the PROM stuff trying to take in all the info I can. Anyways, I had a question about this S_AUJP bin. It enables highway mode, but turns off EGR. I remember reading somewhere that having functional EGR was very important when running highway mode. So, would turning off EGR and enabling highway mode not be a good idea? I may be way off base here but just curious.

As far as the comments about the PROM begging and all, I can see some people using it that way. However, I think it is very helpful to have a "better" base to start with, and allow us newbies to compare it to the regular AUJP to see what kind of changes are made by tuners right off the bat. I personally don't plan on using it, atleast as is (due to concerns about the highway mode and the really aggressive spark advance). But I think that TRAXION deserves props for providing the community with an example of a better stock bin.

Gearhead143

Well I have been watching this post since it started, and hoped it would not die befor I got my project going.

I have a 90 1500 pu. with a 502 Ramjet , TH400, 373 gears, S&P harness 7730 ecm.

I have been working with my own tune with good luck, but when I tried the S_AUJP in it's untouched form it was a OH WOW feeling.The idel is rich, cruise is a tad lean.

I did change cylinder volume and injecter constant. I have not been able to find the flow rate for my injectors and have heard they are 38# . Does anyone know for sure?

I have only been able to run a cuople of passes due to weather, but as I am able I will send my findings.

I am useing CATS RT, WBO2 , and a scaner

Shelby

89 Iroc Z

Gearhead143,
You can always send one injector off to http://www.cruzinperformance.com/ to get it flow tested for very low cost. But you can probably just write down the part number off the injector and Google it and you will find the flow #'s.


TRAXION,
Would you be willing to post the source code file (.asm file) of the Super AUJP code? I know I could just disassemble it but then it wouldn't be commented.

AlexJH

It's not AUJP but it's a 7730 ecm.

ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/pub/gmecm/bins...0/azty_hac.dsm

89 Iroc Z

AlexJH,
Thanks for the link. I already know about the current hac's out but I wanted to know if tim would post his modified AUJP code.

Section162

I'm not sure that source code was used to create it. I always assumed he started with a stock AUJP .bin and used a hex editor and/or bin editor.

JPrevost

Correct! Although there is some patched code which means the tdf/ecu file will display incorrect axis or information. Nothing huge and if you match up the super_$8D.edu with the super_AUJP bin they should match. If they don't then I don't know what to say other that oops.
Actually no injector is made for ONE specific fuel pressure. There is a specification from designer than the injectors flow X amount at X fuel pressure because the regulators are being made by a different company.
ALL injectors are made to work in a window, not one specific fuel pressure. I also don't think $100 on injectors is cheap. When I have time to tune a car really well I disconnect the alternator and run an old battery down watching the wideband. My romulator is in and I tune the table to keep the same AFR, aren't I special .
Oh yeah, and my fuel pressure is at 28psi when it was "rated" at 12.
If all you need is a little more fuel to keep the duty cycle from getting too close to 100% then just increase the fuel pressure. If you're going static with stock pressure in the rpm range of peak torque THEN get bigger injectors, else save the money for a tank full of premium for better tuning.
How fast can you swap ecms when you've hit a nasty pot hole and have no pull over... look out, there's a rather large 18 wheeler behind you...
Not trying to be sarcastic but limphome mode is rather important to my survival if anything should go wrong. You can tune the netres (RFD) with extra resistors to get the car to run suprisingly well. Do a search, it's worth looking into for any modded cars because THEY run the worst with large injectors. When I had a fuel delivery problem (low pressure and bad fuel pump) my eprom got kicked out by my friend. I didn't reliaze anything was wrong until I cam to a complete stop and it sounded kind of funny. So with my engine and lean injectors... it was running great equates to the RFD running really rich. The v6 memcals and netres are even richer.

Is anybody going to make those ecu files for the patched code? I still think this is just one more reason for somebody to sit down and program a "wizard" program. It would make life so much easier for everyone.

TRAXION

Yeeeup. No .asm. I edited a stock AUJP with TunerCat, a custom TDF, and a hex editor for the hardcode changes

Tim