Alright I've been searching and reading for a couple hours now but my problem seems a little different. Here it is.

My car 89 camaro 5.7L tpi, 165 ecm, ARAP.bin (VATS ENABLED)with a few minor changes that I've been running for a couple years now.

A couple of days, car started just fine, drove my car to the gas station fillied up then it wouldn't start. deffinately had battery power just wouldn't crank. I figured it must be the VATS, so I went home and got my spare key. before trying my spare I tried the original again and I turned it to start, nothing and then tried once more and it started. When I got home same thing happened, one turn nothing second turn start. Next day same thing. I'm not getting any error codes.

So I burnt a new ARAP with VATS disabled and its still doing the same thing. The weird thing is that sometimes it wont start at all and I have to let it sit for a few minutes then it will start on the second turn. This leads me to believe that it is VATS because I read something about having to leave it for a few minutes before trying again.

I used tunercat to disable vats. Also I didn't use my scanner to check trouble codes just grounded A and B, that works just the same right? or should I dig out my scanner? Also one more question If I have a bad eprom It will go into Linp Home correct? If so how do you know if its in Limp Home?

Sorry for the long post.

 

Sounds suspiciously like a non-ecm problem.

Starter solenoid?
starter?
Overheating starter motor?
Bad wiring?
Bad ignition switch?

Not sure about '89, but in '90, I'm pretty sure VATS does not disable the starter, only the spark and injectors.

Mike

 

Not ecm related.
VATS disables the injectors.

 

Does the Security light stay on all the time when you are turning the key and nothing happens?

When you put the key in and when you turn it, the Security light should come on and stay for about a second or two and it should go off meaning that the VATS accepted the signal. If the Security light stays on all the time after you turn the key then it is VATS related problem.

I just dealt with this VATS issue and ended up wiring in a 10 cents resistor rather than paying GM 150$ cdn for a new VATS key cylinder.

 

This does not sound like a VATS problem if it starts on the second try in a row. The VATS system will disable the starter and injectors. The problem that you describe sounds more like loose battery cables or a bad starter.

 

Your ignition switch has slipped. Drop the column and loosen the screws on the switch while the key is off, push the switch away from you just a very little bit, retighten the screws and try starting it.

 

I agree with the others that your problem is not the VATS system. While it MAY be the starter, I am inclined to look at your ignition lock in the steering column as Morely suggested.

I had a similar problem where occasionally, my car would not crank whatsoever. On a second or third try, it would. I was about to change my ignition lock when some jerk broke into my car and ruined my steering column and lock while trying to steal my car. (VATS saved my car).

Due to the damage, I had to get a new ignition lock and I never had the problem with starting since. What you are describing is exactly what I experienced until I got a new ignition lock.

 

A few months ago, my friend's 89 had the same problem. Not only did we have to disable VATS in the ECM, but the VATS relay (maybe it was starter enable) up under the drivers side kick panel had to be bypassed.

 

Thanks for all the help, I think morley is probably right about the switch because the ignition does feel kinda sloppy. I think I'll try that but if that was the case then I shouldn't have to wait like I do sometimes. Its weird if I don't get it to start in the first few tries I can't seem to get it to without waiting a few minutes.

In the off chance that it is actually VATS, by disabling it in the prom that should have completly eliminated the problem correct?

Or does VATS have two seperate systems? One for the ecm which will disable the injectors and another seperate circuit disabling the starter?

DanielK I'm not sure about the security light if it stays on or not but with the VATS disabled in the prom that shouldn't matter correct? I'd go check but I just moved into a new place and I'm having to reply from school.


Thanks

 

Just to reassure you, I just had the exact same thing happen to my car last weekend, turn the key and nothing, turn off and try again and it starts. I don't have VATs in my 85, it was the ignition switch adjustment, moved it 1/16" and all was good again.

 

Ermm. vats disables the injectors, and shuts off the starter enable relay in the drivers kick panel. If vats failes, car no crank.

What might be failing is the starter enable relay.. I cut mine out when I removed vats from my 89, 5.7, 165 ecm car (before switching to 730).

-- Joe

 

THanks for all the help I got it figured out. I pulled the wheel and got a look at the lock cylinder one of the yellow wires leading to the key was cut. I tried reconnecting it to no avail. I just wired in a resistior instead and now it works.

The only reason I can think that it would start at all was that the wire would touch by chance every once in a while, I dunno but i'm just glad its over with.

 

You owe Morely a beer (or beverage of his choice).

 

So it was VATS related, in a round about way. Now you have to ask, why was that wire cut? Did someone get interrupted when trying to steal your car?