IDOXLR8

does anybody know what ecm is used in a 90 ZR1 also where can I find the bins to burn a chip for one? or can it not be done?
Thanks in advance

Grumpy

Check out www.tunercat.com

IDOXLR8

where can I find a bin to start with? I want to get more power out of this car is the chip going to help everything else is stock right now?
thanks

Grumpy

Once you have the equipment to burn proms you also have the ability to read them. So get the equipment, and then read the one you have. You'll also be able to see the Broadcast Code, then you can call GM and get the latest one, for your backup.
Then get one of Moates Piggy back devises, and you can burn away to you hearts content.
On the ZR1s GM got them pretty close, so your not going to see a monumential gain. But, you can work on drivibility issues, and with any changes you'll be able to optimise performance.

IDOXLR8

I have all the prom burning stuff except for a way to read the chip without un soldering it out of the stock memcal is there an adapter I can buy?
Thanks

funstick

go pick up some 66pin headers pins. then cut to size IE 14 per side. then spread the pins plug them into the memcal and sit them in the programmer.

rooster433

i'd like to give tuning a ZR1 a try. You don't see to many of them thats for sure.

I believe you can probally improve the car greatly. Almost every car from the factory runs high 11:1 afr's. Can be advanced quicker, and have some part throttle sluggishness that can be cleared up.

If i'm not mistaken the ZR1's where speed density too.. If so you can probally definataly improve on the tuning.

Grumpy

ZRs were tuned in England, and then that modified to keep the EPA folks happy. There is some to be found, but not alot.

Unless for Off Road use, you'll need to keep the WOT rich to keep the cats from going bad.

rooster433

I disagree.

Keeping the car rich at wide open is not a "way to save the cats" its there to keep the motor fat and safe.

The will run the cars richer and with less timing than you would for an all out performance tune to keep the cars safe at different altitudes, weather, gas, and drivers. Keeping cumbustion cool and lubricated is the name of the game for preventing detonation.


If more fuel would keep the cats happy than why do pig rich cars blow out cats?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Maybe take a look at some GM cat-con protection routines and cal values. . . Rich beyond belief is what cools a cat down, along with adding timing. That's what GM does.

RBob.

Grumpy

There are a bunch of good posts in the archives at DIY-EFI explaining the chemistry of cats and how they work.

Anything done wrong fubars something.
There's a difference between pig-rich and engineered to run at a specific AFR.

And like Bob metioned. The routines are very specific in what they do, if in doubt check with the guys seriously and correctly hotrodding the LT1s. Notice I said seriously and correctly, some folks are going off on all sorts of tangents thinking they understand what the LT1 PCM is doing.

rooster433

I still don't think running a car richer than 13.0 and leaner than 12.0 is going to hurt the cat in anyway.

I can understand not letting the car pass say 13.5 to one to protect the cats at wide open.

I never said I would lean it way the hell out

need4speed

Grumpy is right guys. Listen for once.

While running rich decreases the amount of oxygen in the exhaust to turn the cat off, running pig rich will leave the cat full of fuel. When the oxygen comes back in the exhaust stream, you now have a blast furnace in your cat.

This is what GM does for the LT1. I had to add the underscore lines because the web page deleted the space marks and bunched all of the numbers up..




******************************************
* CAT SYSTEM CALIBRATIONS
*
*
******************************************
L2929 FCB 167 ;801 Deg c, CAT O.T. THRSH FOR BARO LT
; VAL = (Deg c -300)/3

L292A FCB 89 ;70.6 Kpa, LWER BARO THRESH FOR CAT O.T.
; VAL = (BARO+256/160)-24

L292B FCB 176 ;828 Deg c, CAT O.T.THRSH FOR BARO LT

L292C FCB 121 ;90.6 Kpa, LOWER BARO THRESH FOR CAT O.T.
; VAL = (BARO+256/160)-24

L292D FCB 183 ;849 Deg c, CAT O.T. THESH FOR BARO
; VAL = (Deg c -300)/3

L292E FCB 20 ; 60 Deg c, CAT O.T. HYST

L292F FCB 167 ; 85c COOL CAT TEMP INIT
; VAL = (Deg c +40) * (256/192)

L2930 FCB 33 ; 399 Deg c, CAT INIT TEMP IF COOL =(GT L292F)
; VAL = (Deg c -300)/3

L2931 FCB 122 ; 12.2 AFR, FOR CAT O.T.
****************************************

;------------------------------------
; CAT TEMP FILTER COEF Vs AIR FLOW
;
; Dissassemby of EE, LINES = 9
;
;
; TBL = 256 * FILT COEF
;------------------------------------
ORG $2932

;-------------------------------------
;
;______________FILT COEF__gms/sec AIR
;--------------------------------------
L2932 FCB 1____;___0.004____0.0
L2933 FCB 4____;___0.016____16.0
L2934 FCB 6____;___0.023____32.0
L2935 FCB 8____;___0.031____48.0
L2936 FCB 12___;___0.047____64.0
L2937 FCB 24___;___0.094____80.0
L2938 FCB 26___;___0.102____96.0
L2939 FCB 28___;___0.109____112.0
L293A FCB 28___;___0.109____128.0
;------------------------------------


;-------------------------------------------
; ENDO/EXOTHERMIC REACTION TEMP COMPONENT vs AFR
;
; Dissassemby of EE, LINES = 7
;
;
; TBL = ( Deg C/3) + 128
;-----------------------------------------
ORG $293B

;-----------------------------------------
;
;_______________Deg C____AFR
;-----------------------------------------
L293B FCB 81___;__-141_____10.7
L293C FCB 90___;__-114_____11.5
L293D FCB 95___;__-99______12.3
L293E FCB 105__;__-69______13.1
L293F FCB 116__;___36______13.9
L2940 FCB 128__;___0_______14.7
L2941 FCB 131__;___9_______15.5
;----------------------------------------

drive it

iTrader: (1)

On the ZR1s GM got them pretty close, so your not going to see a monumential gain. But, you can work on drivibility issues, and with any changes you'll be able to optimise performance. [/B][/QUOTE]
Ditto to the above......I've tuned a friends Callaway Supernatural ZR-1; so I've gotten familiar with the LT5. If you're doing mods, then it's well worth it to tune-however if you're new at this I would not suggest starting with the LT5! You have two ve tables-for port open and closed, along with two sets of injectors, etc......
Also I'd consider a wide band mandatory for wot tuning.
And considering the cost of an LT5 engine......don't go too lean!!!

-=Jeff=-

Yeah LT5s are a different beast...

I have been helping 3 of my friends tune their ZR1's

Basically they do all the data collecting and testing, and tell me what to change for them. They all know their set-ups but don't have the equipment to burn and try different things. They have also been happy with the results of the changes that we collectively made