Hello, I read somewhere I thought on here that there is an upgraded number for the 1227165 ECM that is wired identical just having better solder and parts? Can't find it now, wondering if anyone has heard of this?
Thanks

 

Send Tuned Performance a PM. If anybody has the answer, he would.

Good luck!

 

The superseded numbers for refurbished 165 ecms are 77-7165, 16198259 and 88999194.

 

Tha;nks for responding. So you gave me three numbers? I know nothing so are these three numbers for different options on the car or three upgrades of the same functionality? Thanks again.

 

These are service numbers for the ecm, the calibration letters on the memcal is called the broadcast code. The BCC is for the vehicle engine /transmission tire size, ca or federal emissions options.

 

I have the ECM out of the vehicle so I will look for the BCC. Will my memcal which has all the re - programming for the new engine plug in with no work required to one of these new ECM part numbers you gave me. Sorry to be a pain but when it comes to this computer stuff I am as lost as a Nun in a ***** house. Did you read my other thread about what my car issues are?? Any ideas ?? Thanks again !

 

All the numbers I listed above are for a direct replacement ecm. Yes the memcal will swap over no issues. On your other thread sounds like the firing order is off or if the car sat for a long time a injector or injectors are stuck closed and the o2 sensor is seeing a lean condition over compensating and causing the engine to run rich.

 

Your awesome I think ! I will re-check timing ( I guess I do have a timing light). I need it to be in closed loop for that or did I read somewhere I need to jumper two pins in the ALDI to set the mechanical timing?? Anyway to test injectors for being stuck besides looking for really dry and gray sparkplugs. They are a real beotch to get out.

 

You can do a cylinder drop test since the plugs are a pita to take out. The only other way to detect a bad injector is to ohm there coils when warm but that will only tell you about the coil condition not is the pintle is opening. A stethoscope could also be used to hear a injector pulsing. To set the timing do it with the engine warm and the est connecter the tan/blak wire bye the hvac fan housing disconnected.

 

I will try that tonight after work. Thanks again !!

 

you can test an injector to see if the pintel is at least moving by applying 12v to one terminal and gnd to the other of your individual injectors. do it with the engine off of course and just do it very quickly so as to not run your injector static too long. About 5 pulses per second shoudl be ok, you should hear a click each time.

I've had a couple experiences with used injectors that had been sitting in a box for a long time and were just installed into an engine, which now had a bad miss. I found which injector wasn't working and hit it with straight 12v repeatedly. after about 10 or so taps with a wire it started faintly clicking, and by the time I was up to 30 or 40 taps with the wire it sounded just like the others. then plugged everything back in, started the car and presto, no more miss.
What helped this injector was the full 12v hit for maybe 100-250ms at a time, your cars computer does not pass nearly as much current into the injector as this method does, and if the injector is simply sticking for some reason it may not get the chance to break loose. Of course IF this makes an injector start working it isnt a good sign of the condition of either the injector or fuel system (or both) but it can at least get you going.

 

Good Morning All,
Last night checked my timing with timing light after I tripled checked the plug wiring and found it to be fine. After warming up ( and burning my eyes) from the extremely rich condition I am set at 8deg BTDC. Car running really rich and rough. I slowly increase throttle with no change. Then about 1800rpm the timing finally changes by JUMPING instantly to approximately 24 deg. at which time motors starts to purr like a giant ford eating lion. Any more ideas???? You guys have been great and are steering me in the right direction so far. Also after hooking up the EST wire connector the timing still sat at 8deg till 1800rpm then jumped up to the 24 or so deg.

 

Good Morning All,
Last night checked my timing with timing light after I tripled checked the plug wiring and found it to be fine. After warming up ( and burning my eyes) from the extremely rich condition I am set at 8deg BTDC. Car running really rich and rough. I slowly increase throttle with no change. Then about 1800rpm the timing finally changes by JUMPING instantly to approximately 24 deg. at which time motors starts to purr like a giant ford eating lion. Any more ideas???? You guys have been great and are steering me in the right direction so far. Also after hooking up the EST wire connector the timing still sat at 8deg till 1800rpm then jumped up to the 24 or so deg.

 

The distributor is in limp mode. This is what it is supposed to do with the EST/BYPASS connector open.

After that connector is closed need to key-off for at least 10 seconds. Then restart the engine and check the timing. It will now be more advanced and under ECM control.

If the distributor stays in limp mode then there is an issue. Either the ECM, wiring, connector, or ICM is bad.

RBob.

 

Thanks Rob I have a terribly long list of codes that popped up on my INNOVA 321D Scanner. The list is long but maybe will make sense to someone like yourself. I sure appreciate all the help so far. Here goes the list from 1-9 as displayed on scanner.
DTC : 36= 1. Direct Ignition system fault - loss of 24X signal or extra or missing pulses in
EST signal
2. Ignition system fault - loss of high resolution pulse signal
3. MAF burn off circuit problem
DTC : 43 1. ESC - circuit problems
2. EST circuit - low voltage detected
DTC : 46 1. Power steering pressure Sw. failure ( Works great)
2. VATS failure ( this was disconnected long ago )
DTC : 51 1. Coputer problem faulty, wrong, or incorrectly installed PROM or ECM/PCM
failure.
DTC : 53 1. Current system voltage to high ( over 17.7 bolts to ECM) or EGR system
fault, or VATS fault. EGR system has been gone since rebuild.
DTC : 54 1. Fuel pump circuit fault or Mixture control solenoid fault or ECM fault
/ EGR solenoid #2 failure or Fuel pump relay
DTC : 61 1. A/C system performance problems (A/C works great even now )
2. O2 sensor signal fault or port throttle system fault, or onboard
cruise control fault. (vent solenoid circuit)
DTC : 63 1. EGR flow problem or cruise control fault. ( Both have been discontinued a
long time ago) Servo position sensor (SPS) circuit fault or MAP sensor
or Oxygen sensor fault. This has a MAT sensor installed just ahead of the
throttle body and the MAP sensor has never been hooked up in the back
of the intake.

 

Some of those codes don't exist in a '86 - '89 TPI f-body. So ignore all of them.

Blink the codes out via shorting A & B on the ALDL connector. At a minimum you will have 12 and likely 42. Code 12 is from the engine not running (normal). Code 42 is from running the engine with the EST/BYPASS open.

RBob.

 

Will do. Thanks again RBob,

 

So Tuner pro do you sell these items or know who does I have been searching on here but with no results. Since my original is a 7165 and I have the chip that was programmed for this motor I am thinking I need the 16198259 or 88999194 that you suggested. Do you know where I can get one of these? Also later in this post I listed all the codes my scanner detected and RBob says many of them don't exist so therefore I will short out A & B and hand count what codes are showing. but still am thinking the ECM is the culprit should know tomorrow or the next day. Thanks again !

 

http://www.chevythunder.com/Flow%20chart%20index.htm
For the ecm you might want to post a ad in the classified wanted section or scour the jy for mid 80s s10 4cylinders and use your memcal. The connectivity of the 165 sucks and is hit or miss on getting one to datalog correctly. it seem it maybe related to the programing mask but I'm really not for sure.
http://tunerpro.net

 

Thanks Tuned Perf. and RBob, I jumped out A & B and got a 42 & 43 code. I took apart the connectors at the distributer and plugged and unplugged several times. Reset computer, took out and covered the road with some rubber and car is running good again. Checked for codes and all I have is the sweet #12 over and over. I did notice I was loosing a little oil pressure. Usually 60lb but dropped down to 30lb. I was looking for a leak and found a small oil leak coming out of the oil pressure switch on the electrical connect end. I have a new sending unit ordered. Hopefully then I can enjoy some windshield time. Thanks guys !

 

why not convert over to a 411 and sequential injection?? It aint that hard to do??? I could proly do a write up on it.

 

100% I would love to see a write up on the 411 swap!